A Day at the Races with Isaac Mizrahi

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Isaac Mizrahi’s show. Wow what can I say? Lets see I’m sure I can come up with something. Very, Day at the Races look. From the early 1900s. The boater hat the models were sporting was very popular amongst affluent males in the Victorian to Depression era. Isaac’s use of it in his collection set the tone, and his use of it on the female models really gave an empowerment to it. His use of pastels reached even someone such as myself; I always look for the black version of anything I like.

He definitely took styles from this early era, loosened, shortened, and lessened the fabrics and made them into stunning pieces that are classy, yet with a flair. A flair that says, “Sure, I’ll go to your day at the races, but I’m still me, and you can’t change that.” Come to think of it, very My Fair Lady, without the cockney accent.

I most certainly look forward to seeing these pieces hit the stores. Among formal-wear were many short frocks that could be worn at day or night, for a day at the races or perhaps a romantic picnic in the park..now if only I can plant the seeds of picnicking in beautiful new clothes in my husband’s head..

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"A Little Romanticism"

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V

1. FROM LEFT, ON SHANINA: Blazer, Loro Piana ($3,995). Neiman Marcus, 170 N. Gulph Rd., King of Prussia, 610-354-0500. Tweed vest, Eskell ($176). Visit eskell.com. Tulle-skirt gown, Vera Wang ($5,250). Visit verawang.com. Gothic pendant, Dolce & Gabbana (price on request). Saks Fifth Avenue, 2 Bala Plaza, Bala Cynwyd, 610-667-1550. ON NORINA: Cut-out collar jacket, Michael Kors ($1,395). Saks Fifth Avenue, SEE ABOVE. Evening dress, Donna Karan New York ($2,895). Nordstrom, 190 N. Gulph Rd., King of Prussia, 610-265-6111. Leather gloves, Etro ($895). Linda Golden, 379 Lancaster Ave., Haverford, 610-658-0992. Signoria watch, Gucci ($3,190). 160 N. Gulph Rd., King of Prussia, 610-337-4130.

2. Draped gown, Zac Posen ($3,400). Neiman Marcus, 170 N. Gulph Rd., King of Prussia, 610-354-0500. Cape, Jean Paul Gaultier ($2,695). Joan Shepp, 1616 Walnut St., 215-735-2666. Smoky topaz and bronze necklace, Stephen Dweck ($2,190). Neiman Marcus, SEE ABOVE. Jaipur necklace with mixed stones, Marco Bicego ($2,590). Bernie Robbins Fine Jewelers, 595 E. Lancaster Ave., St. Davids, 610-971-2446. Ring, Loree Rodkin ($57,100). Neiman Marcus, SEE ABOVE.

3. FROM LEFT, ON NORINA: Silk blouse, Fendi ($1,930). Neiman Marcus, 170 N. Gulph Rd., King of Prussia, 610-354-0500. Argyle skirt, Moschino ($695). Similar styles, Nordstrom, 190 N. Gulph Rd., King of Prussia, 610-265-6111. Horsebit ring, Gucci ($5,390). 160 N. Gulph Rd., King of Prussia, 610-337-4130. ON SHANINA: Ruffl e-sleeve top, Pollini ($696). Visit pollini.com. Wool pants, Versace ($1,095). Call 888-721-7219. Panthère de Cartier necklace, Cartier ($86,100). 160 N. Gulph Rd., King of Prussia, 610-205-0450.

4. Embroidered trench, Moschino ($7,855). Similar styles, Nordstrom, 190 N. Gulph Rd., King of Prussia, 610-265-6111. Floral dress, Burberry ($3,995). 1705 Walnut St., 215-557-7400. Tights, Wolford ($65). Neiman Marcus, 170 N. Gulph Rd., King of Prussia, 610-354-0500. Shoes, Donna Karan New York ($950). Nordstrom, SEE ABOVE. Onyx rings, JudeFrances Jewelry ($2,490-$2,880). Jay Roberts Jewelers, 515 Route 73 S., Marlton, NJ, 856-596-8600.

5. Mink jacket, Versace (price on request). Call 888-721-7219. Silk blouse, Ralph Lauren Collection ($1,198). The Bellevue, 200 S. Broad St., 215-985-2800. Skirt, Valentino ($2,490). Nordstrom, 190 N. Gulph Rd., King of Prussia, 610-265-6111. Boots, Stella McCartney ($1,575). Similar styles, Neiman Marcus, 170 N. Gulph Rd., King of Prussia, 610-354-0500. Rings, Loree Rodkin ($8,888-$14,950). Neiman Marcus, SEE ABOVE. Choker with cameo, Stephen Dweck ($1,865.00). Neiman Marcus, SEE ABOVE.

6. Tufted coat, Stella McCartney ($8,845). Similar styles, Neiman Marcus, 170 N. Gulph Rd., King of Prussia, 610-354-0500. Silk skirt, Morgane Le Fay ($640). Joan Shepp, 1616 Walnut St., 215-735-2666. Croc belt, Donna Karan New York ($450). Nordstrom, 190 N. Gulph Rd., King of Prussia, 610-265-6111. Leather heels, Jimmy Choo ($1,095). Saks Fifth Avenue, 2 Bala Plaza, Bala Cynwyd, 610-667-1550. Bracelets, Philip Crangi ($3,188-$4,488). Barneys Co-op, 1811 Walnut St., 215-563-5333.

7. Top ($1,722), skirt ($1,348) and pumps ($1,120), Louis Vuitton. 160 N. Gulph Rd., King of Prussia, 610-992-0392. Embellished tights, Cynthia Rowley ($250). Pileggi Boutique, 715 Walnut St., 215-922-3526. Onyx ring, JudeFrances Jewelry ($2,840). Jay Roberts Jewelers, 515 Route 73 S., Marlton, NJ, 856-596-8600. Onyx-and-diamond ring, David Yurman ($4,800). 160 N. Gulph Rd., King of Prussia,610-265-6370. Alhambra rings, Van Cleef & Arpels ($2,100–$4,350). Bernie Robbins Fine Jewelers, 595 E. Lancaster Ave., St. Davids, 610-971-2446.

(Philadelphia Style magazine; photographs: Jessica Scott)

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Egads………Are Overalls Back!?

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Please say it ain’t so! Okay, I know I don’t have to wear them, but just the idea conjures up visions that are very unflattering. It’s just that there are so……many beautiful and feminine looks around, that I hope that we don’t slip back into sloppiness which also includes the grunge thing. I’m aware that there are “earthy looks” and that some people prefer things are bit more “understated,” but my hope is that things will continue to be pretty, frilly and classy.

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Inspirations : Red Illusion.

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New York Fashion Week: Spring 2010
Phillip Lim
www.31philliplim.com
via coutorture.com
for : material, installation

+++

Gilles Et Dada / id09
Federico Cabrera
www.tokyo22.com
for : motion, composition

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How to Break in to Fashion Photography?

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How to Break in to Fashion Photography?

As I have been asked this question on a number of occasions, I thought I could attempt to tackle it. As everyone that has broken in to this business via several avenues, I will attempt to share some of the common means of doing so.

There have been many stories of how those who broke in to the industry did so. Most of those were photographers who assisted professionals and learned the vocabulary by doing so. The apprenticeship route is a good one, as you are immersed into the business from the get go. There are also several examples of those entering the business via other means. One of note are models who wish to plan for their future and due to their being present during shoots (obviously) and if they are observant, can build a vast vocabulary based on those experiences. Hair and Make-Up artists have also broken in to the business and they have a very privileged relationship with the magazines and generally work with a vast range of different sorts and as a result have a lot more doors available to them by most. One example is that of “Tyen” who started as a Make-Up artist and eventually going on to become one of the most famous Fashion-Beauty photographers in the world. Another example of inner circle migration is the Fashion Stylist who has access to many magazines, especially if they are free lance. They know all of the Fashion and Beauty Editors and therefore are in a perfect position to solicit them.

However, in all cases the photographer must put a book together. When I say a book (portfolio) together, I mean a book that replicates the look of Fashion-Beauty Still Life spreads. that is at least 6-8 fashion stories of anywhere from 6-12 pages each. Now this could be a mix of double and single page spreads and at least 2-4 Beauty stories of around 4-8 pages each. When putting these stories together I highly recommend you read some of my articles about the Fashion Biz. I don’t wish to repeat what was said in those articles.

When putting your book together, just remember the golden rule of the importance of the team and that is expressed in the articles I have written in my blog.

Once you have put together your book from the tests you have done, mostly put together using the exchange system of images for services, you will be ready to hit the road running. I suggest you commence by contacting all of the hard copy and internet in your region as well as those that accept submissions. Send them samples of your work that you have done and ask if they would be interested in doing a story (editorial) with you. Tell them you have access to teams for your productions and would be willing to co-ordinate the shoots for them. this is important if your client is in Hong Kong and you are in Chicago for example. If they prefer having you do a submission, ask them how much they pay for stories that they accept. If you agree with the payment, ask them to send you their “Themes” schedule to know what are the directions of their future publications, so that you can plan the right theme that corresponds with the themes of the issues they will be publishing. Put your team together based on who would be best to serve the story that you will be shooting. Produce the story, do the Post Prod, send it to them and cross your fingers. If they publish, you will get paid in 60 days after the date of publication.

You will also want to call all of the Ad Agencies, Press Agents of Designers of Clothing, Foot-ware, Beauty Products and anything that uses models for their productions. You may also go directly to the manufacturer if they don’t have an agent representing their line. Your daily rate is based on supply and demand, your notoriety and what they are willing to pay for a production. If images are being used in multi media, print, posters etc. Ask about royalties. They may wish to do what is called a buyout, i.e. pay one set fee for “X” usage over “X” period of time. Depending on locality, these figures swing dramatically.

This although a short primer will lead you in the right direction. How you get in to it has more to do with your knowledge of the business, research, luck and your own personal circumstances. However, always be diplomatic and attempt to put the shoe on the other foot when appropriate. But always go for as much as you can, as once you have set the precedent, it is always more difficult to go up than go down.

Finally…”Good Luck!”

S O U R C E

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How to "Do" Leopard Print

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I don’t necessarily care for the, “choosing the look by age thing,” as it’s my feeling that much of fashion is “ageless”…..many looks transcend age and can be worn by any age group if tastefully done.

1. 20s: Don’t be afraid to wear dramatic prints. Team your classic LBD with a leopardprint coat and, for a grungy twist, add a pair of chunky boots. Faux-fur jacket, £75, by WALLIS (0845 121 4520). cotton dress, £45, by KIMCHI & BLUE, from Urban Outfitters (urbanoutfitters.co.uk); Leather lace-up boots, £50, by NEW LOOK (0500 454094); Metal bangle, £12, by EVANS (evans.co.uk); Studded mesh clutch, £28, by ASOS (asos.com).

2. 30s: Take a classic, chic look – a pencil skirt and cardigan – and rework it with leopard-print and this season’s must-have leather skirt. Cotton cardigan, £29.99, by RIVER ISLAND (riverisland.com). leather pencil skirt, £495, by JOSEPH (020 7610 8441); Suede and leather clutch, £79, by JIGSAW (jigsaw-online.com); Gold-plated bangles, £49.50 each, by ANGIE GOODERHAM (angiegooderhamstore.com); Patent-leather mary-janes, £125, by STEVE MADDEN, from mywardrobe.com.

3. 40s: Modernise your everyday look with an animalprint accessory. A chunky scarf worn with your favourite jeans will take you through winter. Silk-mix t-shirt, £95, by L’AGENCE, from Dover Street market (020 7518 0680); Denim straight-leg jeans, £215, by J BRAND, from selfridges (0800 123400); Cashmere scarf, £458, by CHRISTOPHER KANE, from matchesfashion.com; Ponyskin belt,£59, by TWIGGY, from Fenwick (020 7629 9161); Faux-leather duffle bag, £32, by WAREHOUSE (warehouse.co.uk); Faux-suede ankle boots, £19, by PRIMARK (0118 960 6300).

4.
50+: Keep the print soft, subtle and feminine, and wear with classic pieces such as black court shoes and a tailored blazer. Silk dress, £59.90, by ZARA (020 7534 9500); Cotton blazer, £45, by GAP (0800 011 1427); Velvet bag, £225, by LULU GUINNESS (020 7823 4828); Croc-print leather maryjanes, £155, by LK BENNETT (0844 581 5881).

(Daily Telegraph)

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Stephen Burrows Spring 2010

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Colorful, geometric, fitted, and flowing with a little bit of “80′s vibe.”

Both sleek eveningwear and very wearable day dresses were the focus of Burrows’ presentation, the latter short and lean and the former black, white and dusted with sequins.(WWD)

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LFW Insider Info- Rachel Freire SS10

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I’ve re-written this post maybe 4 times now. How can I write about something when I want to grab you by the lapels and shout it? The above shoot is a collaborative fashion-meets-art piece between London-based designer Rachel Freire and New York based photographer Aurora Crowley.

Rachel is another Hackney Wick designer and we’ve recently struck-up a friendship over a mutual appreciation of human hair and animal skulls. Drawn in by her effervescent creative energy, I found myself setting up camp in her studio last weekend as she prepped for Fashion Week.

Despite the pristine perfectionsim she intends the clothing to be wearable. The quality of the construction means it’s super-durbable – “Rachel-proof” in her own words. This appeals to me. I don’t believe in keeping things in tissue paper boxes, neither does Rachel. They really are wearable – I know, I’ve had the pleasure wearing them. I like clothes that give you power, that make you feel a certain way, that change your attitude and outlook and these are warrior garments to make you invincible.

The shoot alone drew a sharp inhalation of breath. The garments have been created using reflective fabric which comes alive when the camera flashes. A photgraphic Yin to a fashion Yang, this shoot is one of the most impressive editorials I’ve seen, the ultimate collaboration between two artists with complimentary creative visions.

The photographic technique used is called light painting. None of these images have been photoshopped. This is long exposure photography and the effect you see is what happens when you flash a hand held light in front of the camera when the shutter is left open in a dark room.

In return for helping her over the last few days Rachel has granted me an exclusive with these images which haven’t been published anywhere.

I’ve seen her collection in the making and will be posting from On/Off, 180 The Strand where she will showing her second London Fashion Week collection from 18.09 to 22.09.

Watch out for my blog posts straight from the streets and the catwalks of London Fashion week incl Viv Westwood and Jeremy Scott – oh yeah!

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Mary J. Blige and Gucci Host FFAWN Charity Event

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1. Mary J. Blige and Alicia Keys 2. Mary J. Blige 3. Serena Williams looking fab-u-lous! 4. Savannah Brinson and Lebron james (he has the “poindexter thing” going on) 5. Estelle 6. Devon Aoki 7. Mark Ronson 8. Leigh Lazark (love this look!) 9. Melody Thornton 10. Alexis Bryan Morgan 11. Daniella Vitale 12. Alina Cho and John Demsey 13. Steve Harvey 14. Donald Trump (darn that hair!)

When Mary J Blige was in pain, the world knew it. Her album “My Life” was a manifesto that captured the despair of women in the ghetto, a tale of life and loss that mirrored the singer’s offstage troubles. Then she started to feel better and became determined to take the world with her. Her last two albums were called “The Breakthrough,” and “Growing Pains,” and moved her past her Billie Holiday stage. Think of her now as the Oprah Winfrey of hip-hop soul.

On Wednesday night, the singer showed up at a massive shopping party at Gucci’s Fifth Avenue flagship, and was determined to do more than help sell clothes (or score some free ones for herself). The event was a benefit for the Foundation for the Advancement of Women Now, which Blige started with branding expert Steve Stoute.

As she explained: “Steve is a friend of mine and a business partner. Being that he knows my movement and he knows exactly who I am, he said, ‘Mary, what is it that you want to do? What is it that inspires you?’ I said, ‘Helping women.’ He was like, ‘Why don’t we start a foundation?’ I said yes.”

Gucci was a logical spot for a fete, because, as Blige put it, “We know so many women who come in and out of Gucci. This is our spot.”

Blige herself has been dropping her cash on the brand’s bags, clothes and shoes since the early Nineties. “When I got enough money to come to Gucci, I was here,” she said, with a laugh.

What are the biggest issues facing women today? “Insecurities due to lack of education and insecurities due to lack of self-love and confidence,” she said. “Anytime you abuse drugs and alcohol, that stems from your childhood. It creates this ball of insecurity. It turns into an inferiority complex and you end up believing that you’re nothing.”

So does that make shopping at Gucci a sign of self-love or a need to compensate?

“Well, shopping at Gucci because you want the clothes to dress in, and it makes you feel good externally, that’s one thing,” Blige said. “But if you feel good about yourself already and you’re shopping at Gucci, that’s better. That’s everything. If you deal with your issues and then buy a coat, wooeee!”

Downstairs, Donald Trump made a beeline for Serena Williams, telling onlookers and press that she’d done nothing wrong talking back to the referee who went on to throw her out of the U.S. Open last weekend. And LeBron James was everywhere, though few could talk to him due to a very intimidating group of bodyguards.

“You’re going to delete that photo right now,” one of his goons told a fan who tried to take a snapshot of the basketball star.

(WWD)

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Marc Jacobs’ Men’s Spring 2010

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My personal Characterization of this collection is, the “I’m late for class” college student look with a little “computer geek” thrown in. Read more below.

This season the freshest patterns rejected the traditions of the Western ruling class, and there may be no more an appealing example than Jacobs’ candy-colored African prints — allusions, perhaps, to Bow Wow Wow’s tribal influences. Sweatshirts, some deconstructed and cropped, and even Bill Cosby sweaters, looked chic again. The Marc man’s untucked style evoked Basquiat’s nonchalant way around a blazer. Somehow Jacobs keeps overturning memories of the Eighties without resorting to clichés. (WWD)

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