NY Fashion Week S/08: Grey Ant

Today was the official start of NY Fashion Week for Fashion Indie. I was invited to attend the show of the infamously popular, high-waist, west coast denim gods Grey Ant. I went in wondering where these trendsetters, who set the bar high last season with a collection of jeans for the girl tired of showing crack, would grow as a brand. The idea that they could get away with another collection of been there, done that jeanswear was peaking in my mind as I entered small room where the show was to take place. Mr.Mickey of Paper Magazine was in the audience and seemed to recognize me from an interview we had at Orchard Bar a few months back. I was determined to speak to him about nominating me for the mags annual Beautiful People issue but chickened out before I could. Something about a gay man in a tight, bright polo intimidates me, I guess. Also in the audience was stylist and trend consultant Brigitte Segura who I met last February at Malan Breton’s after party. It was hugs and kisses as we made our way to the runway, the kind of fake “wow, it’s been ages” banter that normally takes place during fashion week.

Sitting down I realized that I had no reference for what I was about to witness. Grey Ant has grown from it’s Western roots as a eighties focussed, party brand. Their shows were often theatrical performances which included back-up dancers and club lighting. I hoped for some of that spectacle today, but alas, the move to New York seems to have dampened the spirits of this now grown-up brand.

I hadn’t seen anything from Grey Ant since a Chloe Sevigny spread in Bust a few months ago and I was excited to see what the brand would present for Spring 2008. Fortunately, I wasn’t disappointed. Maybe it’s just cause it’s my first show of the season, but Grey Ant presented a collection that was stylish and far from basic. Playing on his success with high-waists, designer Grant Krajecki took his collection in a new direction combining pattern dyed linens and pairing them with structured waists. Flowing fabrics we’re cinched above the waist creating obtuse silhouettes and crescent-shaped bottoms perfect for girls looking to hide a little junk in their trunk. Continuing in it’s new direction the runway featured some picks from Grey Ant’s menswear collection, which included oversized ponchos and hoods. Mid-waisted jeans also made the scene with a mens cut that was far below (in height, not quality) than it’s female predecessor.

Trend Spot: White jewelry. We aren’t talking about it yet, but wait a few months and we’ll be all over it. Skip the gold and silver, white coated jewelery was on the runway in the form of long chains and necklaces. A very striking statement when paired with the right look.

Popularity: 4% [?]