Byblos - Not An Ancient City Anymore

23 Jan 2008

Byblos, an Italian fashion line around since 1973, has never looked better. The super edgy, almost space age line, is surprisingly wearable and totally awesome. The Spring/Summer ‘08 Womens Collection is a mix of bubble sleeved dresses, sky-high hemline mini skirts, crop jackets and fitted pants. The sophisticated, muted colors and slit detailing, not to mention wrap around platforms, make for a fresh and sexy new approach. Everything is made to enhance the shape and curves of the body and bare just enough skin to deal with what is supposed to be the hottest summer in decades.

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However my personal favorite details from the collection include the rope belts, knotted into bows, which adorned the shorts, pants and skirts.

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Looking for something a little more fun? Blu Byblos, is a much younger, sportier collection with bright colors, stripes and denim pieces, still maintains the basic identity of Byblos. Both Byblos and Blu Byblos have equally hot men’s collections, as well as shoe and accessory lines.

Popularity: 3% [?]

Big Box Fashion. The Misunderstood Monster?

17 Jan 2008

We see it happen in every field. The Knockoff.

In music it’s the illegal downloading that hurts the industry but in fashion sometimes its not so cut and dry. When designers come out with their collections they are fully a product of their creative minds, as wild and as crazy as the clothing may be. What companies like H&M and others such as Forever 21 and Target are doing is kind of harsh to the high-end couture lovers but lets face it we don’t all make six figure paychecks. Fashion is a right every person should have at any budget and while I can sit here and be a snob about how fashion should be for the ones that can afford the couture its not my view at all.
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Diane Von Furstenburg VS Target. Identical or Similar?
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The people that actually think the fashion houses of Paris and Italy are suffering from all of this must be out of their minds. One thing we tend to forget is that Europe will always be far ahead of us with trends and fashion that’s just a fact. By the time such styles make their way to us in retailers such as Target, H&M and others they are already “over” in the European market, so there is no loss to the designers whatsoever. Another thing I should point out is the new development, where these corporations are actually teaming up WITH these designers in order to bring style to those with modest income.

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Feragamo VS. Nine West. Lifted or Inspired?
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Take for example Vera Wang and Karl Lagerfeld, in November of 2004 Lagerfeld’s collection for H&M debuted and sold out in mere hours. We later hear of Lagerfeld’s disappointment when he told Vogue magazine he would never work with the Swedish retail giant again adding “They did not make the clothes in sufficient quantities. I find it embarrassing that H&M let down so many people… I don’t think that is very kind, especially for people in small towns and countries in eastern Europe. It is snobbery created by anti-snobbery.” So you see you cant win them all.

Another fashion great Vera Wang also teamed up with a big chain this time it was the chic Kohls. Wang’s efforts were more effective because even though she took a chance with going to route of a store that had never showcased such a high-end designer, a problem she surely overcame with flying colors. Her line Simply Vera which made its debut in September of 2007 was such a success that it can still be found in Kohls all over the country. It has offered style to girls that couldn’t otherwise afford such luxury and I know of at least three of my girlfriends who wear the collection and love it.

I guess I’ll leave it to the person who really couldn’t have said it better (even if she wasn’t a made up character in a movie). It was the great Miranda Priestly, The Devil who rocked Prada, who said “and then cerulean quickly showed up in the collections of 8 different designers. Then it filtered down through the department stores and then trickled on down into some tragic Casual Corner where you, no doubt, fished it out of some clearance bin. However, that blue represents millions of dollars and countless jobs and so it’s sort of comical how you think that you’ve made a choice that exempts you from the fashion industry when, in fact, you’re wearing the sweater that was selected for you by the people in this room. From a pile of stuff.”

In my opinion, fashion is for the brave souls who wake up every morning and decide that they are going to take time and make themselves presentable to the outside world. So whether you follow a trend or don’t or whether you shop indie or go the couture route, get up, look fabulous, and read Fashion Indie and you’ll be all set.

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Chloe VS. Urban Outfitters. Oh yeah, you stole this idea!!!

For More Adventures in Copyrights visit Fashionista.com
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Popularity: 9% [?]

RUNWAY FALL 08 GUCCI IN MILAN

17 Jan 2008

What Market Said: I dont usually love Gucci but something about the fall /winter collection, presented today in Milan is really getting me going. The Russian Cossack/jetsetter boho rock n roller, Eugene Hutz-inspired collection is totally translatable to today’s skinny-jeans wearing hipster. A few ethnic accessories, a furry vest, velvet skinny jeans and you’re there. You can keep your 2 toned jazz wingtips or beat up jazz shoes, too. More pics after the jump.

What Saynt Says: This is by far my favorite collection from the Milan men’s shows. I know Gucci is far, very far, so far it’s out of the park when it comes to Indie fashion, but when an old mainstreamer presents something this eye catching and (now I stress my point) WEARABLE, well, I just have to talk about it in hopes that one of their PR agents sees it in their heart to send me some freebies, or at least pass along an employee discount. The colors are tight, the patterns are to murder a kitten for (to harsh?), and the overall Brandon Flowers in Moscow feel is amazing. This collection is an intelligent choice for the extremely comfortable with his own sexuality-man who’s looking to up the ante and present himself as a fashion savant. Love it Gucci and can’t wait to shop it.
photos: men.style.com

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Popularity: 4% [?]

Adventures in Trademarking: Louboutin Gets Red

15 Jan 2008

Not a normal indie piece but an important tidbit for any designer with a signature look or style. “The French shoe designer, Christian Louboutin, has finally won the US trademark on the red laquered soles that characterize his designs.” That’s right indies, that whole red soled shoe thing is now owned. Bet your looking for ways to find your own signature for your lux brand. How about blue suede soles? Pretty sure you wouldn’t step on Elvis’ toes on that one.
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Okay, these nails look flippin hot!!! Girls, can you get on this quick?
Another interesting bit on the story is Louboutin’s inspiration for the effect. The signature manicure effect was added to the shoes after Louboutin was inspired by watching an employee applying red nail polish. Nifty, eh?

Popularity: 2% [?]

Ten Best Emerging Designers of 2007

28 Dec 2007

This year has seen a bevy of new designers, break-out talents and designers with collections that push the preconcieved notions of fashion. Okay so maybe it hasn’t been that kind of year but 2007 proved that new talent is just as marketable and sellable as the Golden Oldies.

Here’s our picks for the ten best indie designers of 2007.

#1. Proenza Schouler - Selling Out Never Felt So Good

The big news of 2007 was when the chosen boys of 2006, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, packed Soho’s Opening Ceremony with their capsule collection for Target’s Go! International line. The collection quickly found fans amongst New York’s “be hip or die” crowd with $34.99 pieces from the collection showing up at the Misshapes party at Don Hills. What came as a real surprise was when the indie kings went corporate and sold 45% of their company to Valentino. We’d normally turn our backs (or just make fun while no one was listening) but the boys won back our praise by becoming bloggers for the day and interviewing Chloe Sevengy for the New York Times. All in all the Schouler boys win top spot on the list for their Safari-inspired Spring collection and for making moves in all the right circles.
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#2. Rogan - The Eco Hero

Rogan Gregory’s eco-friendly, trade-free and dolphin safe collections, Loomstate, Rogan, and Edun, have shown the fashion world that it pays to go granola. His quick rise in celebrity popularity and dedication to his craft garnered Gregory acclaim and notice from major players like Vogue and the Council of Fashion Designers of America. The most shocking (but not surprising) moment in fashion in 2007 was when Rogan beat favorite to win, designer Philip Lim, for the top prize ($200,000!!!) of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund awards. Apparently having Bono and a Carbon Footprint measuring tape in your back pocket will win you a vote from Winnie and The Von Furstenburger.
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#3. Thom Browne - His Genius Doesn’t Come Up Short

As a child, one day I woke up and discovered I had grown two feet overnight. Of course it was a Sunday and I realized that my normally perfect fitted suit was better prepared for a flood than Noah . I threw out the suit, but thinking back I wish I kept it. The petal pushing Browne challenged menswear a few years back with a collection of finely tailored suits that cut it’s sleeves at a 3/4 length and pants at a length just above the ankle. Initially smirked at by those in the know, Thom has blossomed as a designer and took on 2007 with a collection for the stodgy Brooks Brothers called Black Fleece. The collection featured a womens touch with a full line of suits made for lovely lady lumps. The woman who rocked it, evoked an Annie Hallish image, and a new trend for fall emerged. This dude knows what he’s doing fellas, it might be time to hem up.
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#4. Victoria Bartlett - Underoos Are Panties for BoysDevastatingly poised for massive amounts of success, Victoria Bartlett has produced a truly original, wearable fashion collection. VPL (Visible Panty Line) questions the structure of underpinnings by bringing them out above your clothes. The result is a line which makes every woman look like Wonder Woman, a look most memorably perfected by Posh Spice and David Beckham for W magazine. This year also marked Victoria’s joining the CFDA and being nominated for it’s coveted fashion fund.
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#5. Philip Lim - The Next Jacobs, The Next Posen, The Now Lim
This year marked a number of milestones for the young Mr.Lim. A collaboration with Uniqlo, a new store on Mercer, a second CFDA nom and a win, and mucho admiration from the fashionably elite. Next year sees possible colabos with Coach (a brand desperately in need of an overhaul) and a slew of other jollies which will undoubtedly put the Limster in a whole new league. He’s on the cusp of greatness and it’s fun to be along for the ride.
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#6 Louise Goldin - The Colors of Fun

Far from boring Louise Goldin’s signature line is a heavy dose of color mixed with a sense of knitting which would make Missoni blush. A fun array of bright energy, the collection of spring dresses from this young designer offers the kind of look which would make Willy Wonka and OZ look like Technicolor stones is a HDTV world. Next year we can look forward to a Louise Goldin / Topshop connection which will hopefully wash over to our shores when Topshop NY opens.
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#7. Love Brigade - I’m Ready for My Close Up, Mrs.Wintour.

Our love for Love Brigade is well documented. We party with them, we host their events, we have Alyssa Key’s name tattooed on our ass (okay that may just be a me thing), but 2007 was the year that the Brigaders went primetime. TheNewPop.com made the souldiers the subject of a series of fashion videos all focussed around their adventures. We got to see their jam packed fashion week shows, behind the scenes peek at the opening of their new boutique and some fun drama starring yours truly. With a new Nirvana inspired collection on the horizon, an awesome collective in the heart of Williamsburg and a possible (hush hush) collabo with a major retailer, this was the year that the Brigaders found their groove.
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#8. Black Sheep & Prodigal Sons - Death Becomes He

The morbid, dreary pieces in Derick R. Cruz’s Black Sheep & Prodigal Sons should not be worn lightly. Using elements like ram heads, Victorian reliefs, and prayer hands, the collection evokes a level of mystery and malice that few jewelry designers can replicate. This year marked his Gen Art Styles Award win as Accessory Designer of the Year and an exclusive collection with personal favorite, BBlessings.

#9. Chloe Sevigny for Opening Ceremony - Why Didn’t This Happen Sooner?

One of the only collections on the list that I haven’t seen in person, Chloe Sevigny’s capsule collection for Opening Ceremony looks to be the start of a very successful celebrity line. Not normally a fan of the Hollywood set closets, Chloe is one indie icon that deserves a little respect. Her impeccable style and dedication to the scenesters makes her collection so much more desirable. What I’m basically saying is, “Chloe get back on that sewing machine a make me a mens collection!!!”
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#10. Rebecca Turbow - Got My Thing Down Flip It and Reverse It

For the Polartec/Fashion Indie Designer Challenge, Rebecca Turbow crafted a complex geographically layered dress that looked like the mix between a typography dress and a disco dress. The look stunned all in attendance for it’s complexity, reversibility (yeah it was reversible), and it’s unquestionable style. Turbow one top prize and continues to push the limits of wearable fashion with a collection made for the not so common girl.

Till next year indies.

- Daniel Saynt

Popularity: 54% [?]

Move Over McQueen, Viktor & Rolf Ready to Roll Out Luggage

01 Dec 2007

File this under collaborations that need to happen pronto. Viktor & Rolf, the artistically unchallenged duo who have conquered H&M and have brought their topsy turvy view of fashion to the world, have just been tapped by Samsonite to create a new capsule collection of luggage. Following in the steps of Alexander McQueen, the new collection promises to challenge the convention of travel.

“Expect Samsonite bags in the shape of violins, cow bells or Russian dolls, to name just a few of the surreal creations of Viktor & Rolf.” says Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune.

Personally very excited about this collaboration. While I did love the concept that came from the House of McQueen, the idea that my luggage looked like a rejected Halloween decoration (he decided to use skeletal remains as an inspiration for the bone colored bags) never sat well with me. Hopefully the “twins” can get it right. Expect the collection to hit Samsonite Black stores in 2009.

Popularity: 1% [?]

Designer Discovery: Brian Reyes

27 Nov 2007

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So my new favorite designer of the week is Brian Reyes. I discovered him while shopping for the perfect b-day dress for this weekend (that’s right Indies I’m celebrating the big 23)! He is mostly known for creating my favorite look; tight bodice with a bubble skirt (totally flattering on almost every figure). The designers resume includes working for Micheal Kors, Ralph Lauren, and Oscar de la Renta before stepping out on his own at the very young age of 24. Already graced the covers of In Style, Vogue, and Cosmo (among a few), his style is young sophisticated chic with a touch of elegance. Brain’s palette of colors includes mainly black, white, and nude with dashes of muted olive, teal, saffron, and occasionally navy.

Though the hues are very limited, the use of fabrics varies from silk chiffon, gauze, woven chenille, and tulle for detailing. This season’s looks included lantern dresses, jumpsuits, high-waisted mini skirts and pants, and bubble dresses shown with skinny jeans or leggings. This designer has definitely put his name on the fashion map, with many already on the road who can handle the rather pricey tag for his red carpet ready looks.

Popularity: 2% [?]

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