Buyers Anonymously Praise Hedi Slimane's First YSL Collection

Jul 06, 2012 - by Lester Brathwaite

Hedi Slimane made his unofficial debut as creative director of Yves Saint Laurent -- soon to be Saint Laurent Paris -- with a buyer's only presentation of women's resort and menswear in Paris this week. Luckily, nothing stays secret for long. Especially in fashion.

As they didn't have to sign non-disclosure agreements, some buyers spoke to Vanessa Friedman of the Financial Times on condition of anonymity. The resort collection -- Slimane's first true foray into womenswear -- was inspired by the early days of YSL, with Friedman evoking Helmut Newton's famous photoshoot for Vogue Paris in 1975:

"So reports are of skinny suiting, always a Slimane signature, but also, more surprisingly (and interestingly) little silk dresses with bias-cut mini-skirts covered in tiny dots, the tops referencing the tux blouse, both sleeved and not."

Though there was some confusion as to how much Slimane was involved in the collection due to the rather recent changing of the guards, the house  insists that Hedi's heading it all up. So why all the secrecy?

Well, Friedman makes a good point, speculating that perhaps Slimane didn't want to steal any media thunder away from another high-profile debut happening just around that time. All bets will be off, however, come October when Slimane's Saint Laurent Paris will take its first steps out into the world -- preferably with this blasting over the audience. [FT]

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