Fashion Week Calendar War Comes to a Peaceful Conclusion...at Least Until 2014
Apr 20, 2012 - by Lester Brathwaite
Well, it's taken seven months, a few strong-worded letters, and more than a couple of threats, but New York's Council of Fashion Designers of America, London's British Fashion Council, Milan's Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana and Paris' Chambre Syndicale have finally come to a compromise over show dates through 2014.
The controversy stemmed from the proposed "second Thursday" rule and how long it would remain in effect. The rule dictated that New York would kick off the fashion show calendar on the second Thursday of every September and February. New York and London claimed that they had all agreed on the rule in perpetuity, while Milan and Paris countered that the rule was only for three years, after which they'd revisit the issue.
This September, however, the "second Thursday rule" would have pushed the start of NYFW to Sept. 13, thus pushing everyone else a week back, causing conflicts in ordering and delivery. Milan then threatened to keep its show dates as they were, which would cause an overlap between LFW and MFW. Paris then also decided to keep its original show dates, which prompted the CFDA to move September's NYFW back one week to Sept. 6.
But after all that dramatic, multinational hubub, the CFDA and BFC released a joint statement yesterday confirming a new agreement where New York starts on the first Thursday through 2014, and both Paris and Milan are happy with the outcome.
Steven Kolb, CFDA CEO, explained that the Council "tried to change the dates and keep [the start] on the second Thursday [of September and February], so that American designers would have more time for the delivery of fabrics and for preparing their collections. We worked hard to get Paris and Milan to agree with the second Thursday start and, unfortunately, we were unable to convince them otherwise, and so our first Thursday start is based on Paris and Milans decision to not move their dates.
Mario Boselli, the sharp-tongued president of the CNMI, cheered that "common sense has prevailed," adding that he was "pleased" over the compromise mainly for two reasons: "its a three-year agreement, and not a 20-year one as somebody had suggested, and its a schedule that is underwritten by all parties. We entirely approve of this [confirmation], which is a sign of respect to all operators, buyers and editors involved, who, while facing the complexities of the markets, can at least count on the certainty of the calendars."
While Milan has yet to confirm its show dates for 2014, this is what the fashion week calendar will look like for the next three years:
NYFW -- Sept. 6 - Sept. 13 LFW -- Sept. 14 - Sept. 18 MFW -- Sept. 19 - Sept. 25 PFW -- Sept. 25 - Oct. 3
NYFW -- Feb. 7 - Feb. 14; Sept. 5 - Sept. 12 LFW -- Feb. 15 - Feb. 19; Sept. 13 - Sept. 17 MFW -- Feb. 20 - Feb. 26; Sept. 18 - Sept. 24 PFW -- Feb. 26 - Mar. 6; Sept. 24 - Oct. 2
NYFW -- Feb. 6 - Feb. 13; Sept. 4 - Sept. 11 LFW -- Feb. 14 - Feb. 18; Sept. 12 - Sept. 16 PFW -- Feb. 25 - Mar. 5; Sept. 23 - Oct. 1
And so everything is peaceful in the world of fashion...except that the deal between IMG and Lincoln Center is up in 2015, leaving the future home of New York Fashion Week up in the air. But that's not for another few years, so let's enjoy the peace while we can. [WWD, sub req'd]