#NYFW Round-Up: FashionIndie's Faves from New York Spring 2012
Sep 20, 2011 - by Lester Brathwaite
There's a definite consensus around the FashionIndie office regarding this season at the tents: lackluster. Gone was the excitement and the thrill of the new and in its stead stood a circus comprised of the old guard impatiently appraising the crop of would-be streetstyle stars and the army of bloggers hanging about as they waded through the muck of the nameless and the irrelevant to find a collection onto which to pin their ever-dwindling hopes . Still, there were a few shows that set the five barely-beating hearts of FashionIndie racing and had our backs aching to be clothed in their bright and bold designs.
- Ralph Lauren: "For the ostrich feather boas."
- Prabal Gurung: "For using one print 100 ways, and also for clever cutouts."
- 3.1 Phillip Lim: "For his tasty sherbert color palette."
- The Row: "For dressing the old ladies that the Olsen twins were born to be."
- Thom Browne: "Anyone for a surreal game of tennis? Impeccable tailoring mixed with Browne's signature whims and a mermaid to top it all off."
- Oscar de la Renta: "I was immediately on board when I saw that gorgeous dandelion full skirt in bloom, opening the show and giving a big ole F.U. to Cathy Horyn."
- Theyskens' Theory: "Every bright, young thing should be so lucky to wear this."
- Parke and Ronen: "Obvious reasons."
- Imitation of Christ: "Twas a gorgeous ceremony and set the tone for a lot of twenties influences on the runway."
- Cynthia Rowley: "For seemingly carrying on McQueen through digitized amalgams of printed structure."
- Doo.Ri: "Where jersey and tuxedo shirting live in draped harmony."
- Costello Tagliapietra: "The most beautifully responsible illustrated florals come by AirDye."
- Duckie Brown: "Men bloomed from gloom to rich roses."
- Ohne Titel: "Tonal blocking meets body con in brilliant shades of muted neons."
- Rodarte: "Best use of prints and I can't get over the meticulous cut of each garment. Truly a work of art, this collection."
- Norma Kamali: "Is the coolest person ever and put her insane 60s-inspired collection in an 8-minute 3D film."
- Derek Lam: "Was inspired by 'Frank Sinatra and the Rat Pack crooning by the piano and Angie Dickinson lounging by a crystal-blue pool. Mid-century louche and luxury' in Palm Springs -- enough said."
- Helen Yarmak: "For taking Euro trash to the next level of loud and doing the best colored fox furs of the season."
- Karen Walker: "Did the menswear thing, prints on prints. This would be the wardrobe if Annie Hall was re-filmed, on cocaine, modern day."
General Idea: "Preppy cuts, Fresh Prince of Bel-Air colors with a French twist."
Buckler: "Buckler consistently serves it up for the downtown dandy. Obsessing over his eyewear and snoods."
Simon Spurr: "Simon Spurr always has some of the best suiting but this time they took more bold risks by incorporating more prints and utilizing different materials such as leather."
Michael Bastian: " The show proves that American men's sportswear is not dead yet. The first look was a play on the iconic James Dean image and from there evolved into a wide collection that could fit into many a gentleman's wardrobe."
Tommy Hilfiger: " The label takes note of streetwear hits of the past and uses camo in a sophisticated way throughout the brand. It also seems that the Hilfiger family is going on a European tour."