RUNWAY RUNDOWN Helmut Lang Spring Summer 2010
Read More:helmut lang, Runway Show, spring, Spring 2010, Summer, Summer 2010
Cult Member Leigh Krampe gives us a breakdown of Helmut Lang’s latest collection.
I KNOW, I KNOW–where’s Rachel Roy to kick off New York Spring 2010 RTW Fashion Week?! Well, darlings, she’s moved up in the world and is showing later in the week and so it appears as though we’ll have to start things off with someone new. Shake it up a bit, which is what the fashion industry is trying desperately to do right now, with tepid results at best. Let’s talk Lang, shall we? Helmut Lang. The revered German minimalist now has two Americans at the helm, and gone are the days of $800 baggy white t-shirts, which pleases fashion maximumists such as myself to no end. Married designerly duo Nicole and Michael Colovos have maintained the original, highly intellectual and vaguely Sprockets-esque aesthetic of yore, but have given a bit of an invigoration to the line with a smidgen more colors, some very Euro-feeling prints, and a dash of denim that appears to be just what the doctor ordered.
While the original Helmut-approved skinny black pant was few and far between in this collection, there were some really great looks involving sharply angled jackets with looser, more deconstructed pants that were right up any self-respecting Euro design snob’s impeccable Bauhaus alley. I’m worried that the harem pant is getting played out, but if Helmut deems them appropriate for next year, then I might just have to break down and get me some. I just love them there paired with the structured, pleated shift top.
The dichotomy of textures and fabric drape is just so interesting. And then while that grey hooded number is verging on something the heroine of a Vagisil ad would drape herself in when she’s not “feeling like herself,” otherwise known as having some stank cooter, it pulls itself out of sad-sack smelly-vag sweatshirt territory with some great construction, intriguing drape, and waist cinching to let everyone know that your vag does not in fact stink at all.
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