When I was a dresser at his Fall 2009 show, his inspiration was the Duk Duk, the symbol of a secret society in Papua New Guinea. Now focused on warriors from the same region and high priests from the Caribbean, he smashed their traditional masks with that of Jason and Western sex-fetishes. Aside from ethnic play, the juxtaposition of suits with smaller suits cartoonishly painted on proceeded by coats that actually unbutton to become smaller versions of themselves takes the collection from a cultural conundrum to a wardrobe solution.

Brief history of time: Walter Van Beirendonck was one of the Antwerp 6, a group of designers that graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Belgium in the 80′s. Also members of this game-changing Avant Garde pack were Ann Demeulemeester and Dries Van Noten. Take note.

Izabel Goulart, a Brazilian model whom Carine discovered at the Victoria’s Secret fashion show, turns it in a Mugler top.

For a cut-out zig, zag into this ribboned and mesh-topped tunic from Topshop for $66.

For the zag on a long sleeve shirt, check out what Karl Lagerfeld did for Macy’s for $99. Pair it with Tom Ford sunglasses for a killer downtown look.

1. Christopher Raeburn: Made from recycled military parachute nylon, this parka (which also allows for a warm winter insert) will protect from the elements.

2. Emma Cook: Not your typical poncho, this one has the capacity to enhance your outfit, rather than covering it horrifically, as so many ponchos do. And it will be good to you during a potentially rainy festival season.

3. Peacocks: A cheapie mac from across the pond, where it rains, all the time. Printed leopard. Rawr.

4. Ann Demeulemeester: Drawstrung up in silver, the lapel alone is worth the wear.

5. Jil Sander: As gray as the day is long, yet as olive as my filthy martini, this coat can make a splash.

6. Topshop: Brings me back to a skirt I had during my middle school Spice Girls days – deep blue and plastic. But what I really really really want is zigazig ahh.

7. ModCloth: Red and rubber with an inner whale.

8. American Apparel: Down with a cinch, up with a hood.

9. Moncler: The dolman cuts it short for warmer weather drizzle.

10. Burberry: Cropped and caped, shrug it dry.

As umbrellas are quite the temporary fixture – lost or broken almost immediately – pick up a cute printed guy at H&M for cheap.

And I continue to stand by a solid flatform in the rain.  Because weather is no excuse for shlump.  In fact, there is no excuse. Stay classy. Stay dry.

1. Alexander McQueen Flesh/Ivory Lace Knuckle Box Clutch $2,295, alexandermcqueen.com

2. Miu Miu Ornamental Neckline Dress $1,165, mytheresa.com

3. Orla Kiely Solid Color Sunglasses $235, orlakiely.com

4. Alexander Wang Jade Sting Ray Clutch $795, lagarconne.com

5. D&G ‘Charmonix’ Multifunction Watch $185, nordstrom.com

6. Calypso St. Barth Popover Tunic $95, calypsostbarth.com

7. Rag & Bone Isington Striped Mesh Skirt $350, net-a-porter.com

8. Ann Demeulemeester Belt $205, thecorner.com

9. Tarina Tarantino Silk Dahlia Anywhere Clip $70, tarinatarantino.com

10. Ralph Lauren White Stretch Denim Jeans $500, stylebop.com

11. Nicholas Kirkwood Cutout Ankle Boot $1,185, nordstrom.com

12. Low Luv by Erin Wasson Rough Crystal Cocktail Ring $210, my-wardrobe.com

13. Topshop Kelsey Woven Lace-Up Shoes $100, us.topshop.com

14. Dean Harris Rainbow Cabochon Vine Earrings $4,725, barneys.com

15. Closed Off White Zip Detail Pants $305, stylebop.com

Disgusted that jeans and a tank were paired with Chanel tweed, disappointed that “I-have-no-stylist” Blake Lively agreed to it, and appalled that anything to do with the word “Cellulite” is touching anything Chanel. Gross.

Don’t talk to me, I’m too upset. Leave your message of outrage below.

Link Love: Coco Perez

What’s going on in Beijing, you ask? The grand opening of a store stocked with more than a range of Comme des Garçons lines. The brand new I.T Beijing Market features pieces from Maison Martin Margiela, Rick Owens, Hussein Chalayan, Dior Homme, Ann Demeulemeester and other avant-garde visionaries.

What you really want to know – what are so many new designers doing that disappoints this fashion oracle? They are too soft on themselves, they design things that already exist! It is a sin against fashion. She firmly believes that the point of fashion is to design what has never been done. And that is why we revere her.

To that end, she is finding it harder to create new collections. She’ll never make the same thing twice and humbly admits that the “breadth of possibility is getting smaller.” The thought of selling her company has occurred to her and she hasn’t written it off as an impossibility, but she wonders who would want it? The company is so essentially her. Her current staff that she is training will hopefully be up to the Comme des Garçons challenge: to create something resolutely new. Though more hopefully, that won’t be necessary any time soon.

Link Love: WWD

Just let yourself go, and you’ll truly own these gloves.

Cathy Horyn has been quite vocal about her dislike of designer Alexander Wang. She recently said this about his collection: “the collection downloaded the ideas of designers like Ann Demeulemeester and Issey Miyake — naturally, without their sense of energy and intuition.”

Read more from Cathy here.

Become a FashionIndie.com contributor. Subscribe to Envy.

Developing over a few seasons now, as most trends do, the belted waist for men looks like a given. Taking references from the traditional cummerbund, trench coats and overcoats, the belted outwear look has always been associated with menswear. The two dominant names to remember this coming season when looking for the right inspiration are Ann Demeulemeester whose wrap coats and paper bag waist trousers look best belted; and Burberry Prorsum whose big and bold coat collars, contrast amazingly well against a belted waist. So buckle up, because this is one chic masculine look to wear this season.

By Scott Stephenson

LINK LOVE:Boys in Belts

Become a FashionIndie.com contributor. Subscribe to Envy.

Monoxious offers a full tutorial on how to make this Ann Demeulemeester Zipper Hairband. We want. Check out the finished product after the jump.

LINK: Museum Celebrates The Color Black

Add Your Own Stories on ENVY The Fashion Network

Find more photos like this on ENVY. THE FASHION NETWORK

LINK LOVE: GQ

For those of you who follow Fashion Indie religiously, you’ve probably been wondering where I disappeared to for the past few weeks. No, I didn’t get fired (yet) and I didn’t come down with a case of the Swine Flu (yet), but I did take a two week vacation to Honolulu, Hawaii to unwind and surf with my family for the holidays. But before you throw your coffee at your computer screen in a jealous rage, let it be known that I am back in the freezing, snowy Buffalo, New York for a few weeks before I return to good old New York!

I didn’t believe my friend when she told me that Honolulu had good shopping. What could they possibly sell beyond bikinis, surf gear and grass skirts? Well, after stepping off my 9-hour flight, I was immediately greeted by hundreds of top notch stores directly across from my hotel (we stayed at the Moana Surfrider on Waikiki Beach…highly recommended for anyone traveling to Honolulu!) on Kalakaua Avenue. Having Givenchy, Louis Vuitton, Fendi and Marc Jacobs right across the street was terribly daunting to my wallet.

Since I moved to New York City, I haven’t been much of a mall person, but the Ala Moana Center certainly changed my outlook. Miu Miu, Prada, Chanel, Dior…I’ve never seen such high end stores in a mall before! Cabs are expensive in Honolulu and renting a car is rather pointless unless you want to take an adventure to surf Banzai Pipeline up on the North Shore, but Ala Moana is about a 20-30 minute walk from most hotels and resorts on Kalakaua Avenue. Really, it’s a must!

But if there is one shopping destination that you positively must visit, it’s undoubtedly the original Aloha Rag on Kapiolani Boulevard. Living across the street from New York’s Aloha Rag on Greenwich Street, I know how painful self control can be, but after setting foot in Honolulu’s gem, it hurts even worse. Trust me when I tell you that Honolulu’s Aloha Rag is the most immaculate store I’ve ever set foot in…and the sales are amazing! From Lanvin blazers to Ann Demeulemeester sweaters and Margiela sandals to Balenciaga bags, the Honolulu location didn’t carry a single piece I wasn’t temped to go into credit card debt for. Damn, I really should have gotten those two-tone, studded Alexander Wang gladiator sandals!

Now that I’ve sufficiently depressed myself reminiscing on my amazing vacation, it’s back to the old grind stone! This trip made me quite the Oahu connoisseur, so if any of you have questions or need suggestions for future travels, please don’t hesitate to contact me! Afterall, any Indie is “ohana” in my book!

P.S. My tan is already significantly faded. Great.

In honor of Alice in Wonderland, Parisian department store Printemps asked Alexander McQueen, Christopher Kane, Bernhard Willhelm, Haider Ackermann, Manish Arora, Ann Demeulemeester and Maison Martin Margiela to invent one-of-a-kind dresses for Alice.

Keep reading on Fashionista

Find more photos like this on CULT

Thanks Style!

Ann Demeulemeester can do no wrong in my book. All black and white all the time! The accessories are amazing!

Gallery: RUNWAY RUNDOWN: Ann Demeulemeester Spring 2010 Collection

via Men’s Style

MAINSTREAMERS

Alexander McQueen:

Each of McQueen’s Fall ’09 pieces were sculpted to perfection to create forms in unique patterns and versatile shapes.

Marc Jacobs:

Marc Jacobs was all about the bright colors with this collection. Grabbing inspiration from 80s fashion, the neon hues and big shoulders were a hit on the runway.

Prada:

With fur shapes, wool suits, and some knee high boots, Prada styles hit the runway in edgy fashion

Balenciaga:

With draped satin and silk, paired with fitted tops and flowy dresses, the Balenciaga collection was all about luxury and versatility.

Louis Vuitton:

Bubble skirts, coats, and a ton of accessories marched down the runway for Louis Vuitton Fall’09, of course, bright colors added that perfect touch on all pieces.

Donna Karan:

Fitted coats and long skirts accessorized with belts and necklaces produced a strong collection for Donna Karan this fall.

Alexander Wang:

Focusing mostly on blacks and whites, Alexander Wang explored much more with textures for fall ’09. With each style paired with a matching accessory models looked the part from head to toe.

Moschino:

Ruffles and roses were at the forefront of Moschino’s line up for this Fall ’09 collection. Navy and black dresses with a hint of red adds that special something to each piece.

Roberto Cavalli:

Lace leggings, fur jackets, and knitted fabrics were all part of Roberto Cavalli’s image for Fall ’09.

Lanvin:

Leave it to Lanvin to let loose black gloves and intriguing silhouettes down the runway. With dresses and coats in beige, black, and white, the designer remembers the excitement of color with the occasional spark of red.

Proenza Schouler:

Though many designers stuck to inspiration of the past for Fall ’09, Proenza Schouler kept it modern for the runway. High necks and fitted coats were all a part of the designers vision for the season.

Alexandre Herchcovitch:

Alexandre Herchcovitch was all about the idea of chaos for his fall ’09 collection. Taking inspiration from big cities, multi-textured coats and printed dresses marched down the runway.

THE INDIE TEAM

A. F. Vandevorst:

For Fall ’09 A.F. Vandevorst dreamt-up silk dresses and fur vests colored in quite a specific scheme. With trenches in variations of beige, green, and black it’s clear that this collection was one of a kind.

ADAM:

Releasing an array of colorful styles, ADAM put forth bright, upbeat separates for Fall ’09.

Erdem:

It was all about embroidery and intense color for Erdem’s Fall ’09 collection; lace and satin worked together to create ensembles fit for the runway.

Haider Ackermann:

With flowy dresses under more fitted and architectural coats, Haider Ackermann found that perfect line to combine edge and sophistication.

Ann Demeulemeester:

Stiff black works combined with soft white dresses allowed Ann Demeulemeester to explore the importance of balance for Fall ’09.

Rodarte:

Working with pale schemes, leathers, and silk-screened styles, Rodarte lead a flood of breathe-taking dresses and skirts down the catwalk.

Phi:

Zippers and sequins were among Phi’s best looks for the Fall ’09 season. Edgy styles made it clear that the collection was really for the strong and independent woman.

Albino:

Focusing on geometric shapes and silk dresses, bronze, black, and even a few bright-colored numbers made a strong statement when they took the runway.

Gallery: RUNWAY RUNDOWN: Ann Demeulemeester Spring 2010 Collection

via GQ

As cliched as the whole “ants at a picnic” scence can be, there’s nothing trite about this season’s affinity for insects. As part of her men’s spring/summer 09 collection, Ann Demeulemeester turns beetles into less threateneing sequin and stone encrusted broaches; innovative, albeit a tad creepy. Netherlands jewelry designer Ineke Otte’s ant necklace and Frances Wadsworth-Jones’s 18-karat gold and oxidized silver ring is an ode to the most annoyning of bugs, while

gingham wedge sandal is playful, fun and least likely to make you itch.

This look from Ann Demeulemeester F/W 09 has got me thinking. Would you ever wear a crazy over the top head piece like the one pictured here? I kind of want to see more of these on the street, but alas it hasn’t happened. Who out there is brave enough to pull this off?

LINKAGE: the feeling’s back and you just can’t stop it

A new, limited-edition recycled denim collection, arriving just in time for the Earth Day fuss, has united Alexander Wang, Bottega Veneta, Derek Lam, Rodarte, Rogan, Stella McCartney, Versace, and Ann Demeulemeester.

Last summer Barney’s New York collected recycled denim, which these top designers have fashioned into outfits. The exclusive designs, now in a window display at Barney’s, will go up for auction on eBay April 30, starting at 99 cents each.  All proceeds will benefit Oceana, “the largest international advocacy organization focused 100 percent on protecting and restoring the world’s oceans.”

ELLE has even chipped in with a David Armstrong-shot editorial in their May 2009 issue.

Project Blue is working on the stat that less than 2% of clothing thrown out in the US is actually worn out. Alternatives, of course, include buying and giving away used clothes, or re-fashioning and re-purposing old clothing, as these featured designers have done.

GALLERY: ELLE Lookbook.

GALLERY: RUNWAY RUNDOWN: Ann Demeulemeester Fall 2009

LINKAGE: Style 

Daniel Thawley is a 20 year old model from London who was spotted outside of Rick Owens in a ton of Rick Owens.

The Rundown of His Look…

Vintage Hat
Rick Owens hoodie, shirts, and pants
Ann Demeulemeester boots and pendant
Self-made scarf
Marc Jacobs gloves
Dior bracelet

LINKAGE: Stil in Berlin: Darryl Natale reporting from Paris.

Thanks for the tips Selectism!

Irina Lazareanu

Jack White with Karen Elson

From models turned actresses and vice versa, we now have models turned music artists. With the earlier news of model Irina Lazareanu’s (album debuting this Fall) and Nadja Auermann working on a music career, it is easier to grasp that former model Karen Elson (and wife of Jack White of The White Stripes) is also currently pursuing a music career. Also on her plate, the opening of her Nashville vintage boutique in which she plans to sell everything from Ossie Clarke to Valentino couture.

It is soo easy for these girls to do what they want once they have made a name for themselves in the biz, all about the people you know (or are dating, rumor has it that Irina and Pete Doherty are getting cozy). Her album is being produced by Patti Smith, in collaboration with Sean Lennon, and word is circulating that performance outfits will be courtesy of Mason Martin Margiela, Balenciaga, and Ann Demeulemeester, how convenient!

Belgian-born designer Ann Demeulemeester studied fashion design at the now-famous Fashion Academy in Antwerp from 1978 to 1981, and was a member of the so-called “Antwerp Six”, with contemporaries including Dries Van Noten and Martin Margiela. Demeulemeester is married to photographer Patrick Robyn. She still lives in Antwerp, in Belgium’s only Le Corbusier house, and has a flagship store there, she also lives in Belgium’s only Le Corbusier house. She is influenced by artists including Jim Dine, Patti Smith and Jackson Pollock.

Why did you choose to be a fashion designer, when you could have done almost anything?
AD: I became a fashion designer by accident. I loved to make portrait drawings when I was a teenager and from that came the interest in what people were wearing and why they were wearing it. Also as a fashion designer you can communicate with a lot of people. So although I was not a fashionista I decided just to try it my way and went to the Antwerp Academy in 1977.

How do you communiciate with people through fashion?
AD: It’s like a musician who communicates through his music or an artist who communicates through his artworks or a writer through his books. I make clothes, and you create and give something. It’s most beautiful thing about my work. I have reached people who I would never have known without my work.

There are so many Belgian designers nowadays. How do you characterize Belgian fashion style?AW: I can’t, I’m an individualist and to me all designers are different (and they should be).

Ever since your first collection, you’ve used almost all black and white. Before Ann Demeulemeester, black was the colour of Comme des Garcons or Yohji Yamamoto. Why don’t you use other colours?
AW: Black to me is the colour of the poets but I need white too, like a black and white photo. When I create, I create new shapes and cuts. Later I make them in black or white, and that way I’m not distracted by colour. Once the piece is ready, I don’t add needless decoration. I prefer to keep it pure. Still, there is a whole range of black and white. Also, black can evoke very different emotions depending on the material.

What kind of feelings and emotions does “black” bring to you?
AW: Mostly poetic, but I can use it also as a strong, eternal, beautiful and classic colour. Or even to add strength. It can range from romantic to aggressive, a whole gamut of emotions.

For you, should clothes be wearable, or should clothes express something?
AW: Both. One can not exist without the other.

I think your collection influences both other designers’ collections and street fashion. Is there a difference between those two for you?
AW: We all walk in the street! When I can influence, it means that my work lives. I see it as a compliment.

When did you start designing a menswear collection?
AW: 1996.

What was the inspiration for your A/W 08 menswear collection?
AW: The song “Knockin’ on Heavens Door” by Bob Dylan was in my mind and influenced the spirit of the collection. I was struck by its power and its simplicity. As an anti-war song it had something we need now. People are afraid of the situation in the world today, and that shows in various ways, even the way they dress. Fear kills all beauty, all creativity and all positive vibes that we need to live and to work. Therefore positive vibes are what I wanted to offer, with the power of the flowers taken from my own garden.

Do you think that fashion can change the world?
AW: It’s the duty of all artists to fight with the weapons they have. Every voice counts and I feel it as a responsibility.

More After the Jump

So all the hydrangeas were from your garden?
AW: Yes. I dried them for different periods to achieve different colours. I took photos of them and printed them on fabrics.

Are you inspired by music often?
AW: Yes, because its like a transmission of energy. Art, film, poems or books have the same effect on me. When I see or hear something really good, it pushes me to give the best of myself.

What does “beauty” and “freedom” for you?
AW: Beauty of mind creates freedom. Freedom of mind creates beauty.

How did you establish a personal style so fast?
AW: I just followed my heart without any compromise.

I heard that Patti Smith wears only vintage and Ann Demeulemeester. How did you build such strong relationship?
AW: She’s my best friend, my soul mate, an artist I admire, and a strong individual. We met because we were meant to – it was written in the stars. Close souls find each other in life.

The word “rock” has different meanings. How would you describe it?
AW: Anti-conservative. Energy. A guitar can be a weapon, and clothes too.

What’s your favourite music?
AW: Tom Verlaine. Lou Reed. Nick Cave. Nico. PJ Harvey. Gavin Bryars. Lots more.

What do you think is the difference between men and women, and between menswear and womenswear?
AW: All human beings have masculine and feminine elements. The tension between the two is the essence of life. It’s a mystery that always will inspire me. In practice, I work for completely different bodies. Men are so real with their clothes, they don’t play roles like woman do and that’s why they are so inspiring to me. However, the most important thing is to be intriguing to each other in life.

The lack of sexuality in your collections reminds me of the Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto. For me, Yohji Yamamoto conceals sexual impulses, and this is what old-fashioned Japanese people did. What do you think about this?
AW: I do think that Yohji created a new form of sexual beauty. However, your description of sexuality is completely conservative. Is only Barbie or a macho man sexy to you? For me, they don’t excite me! Emotion and sexuality are really close. I try to work with sexuality as I feel it, in an honest way, and not with rules that were imposed on us many years ago. I could fall in love with the men in my show, and the women in my show could be their wives. They contrast and complete each other. Don’t forget the rule: the most sensual thing is always what you hide. Don’t confuse vulgarity with sexuality.

Are there any projects that you want to do in the near future besides fashion?
AW: Yes, a lot. The future is open. That’s one of my rules: I go day by day. We will see what the future brings. Our duty in life is trying to be happy.

What is happiness for you? What is sadness?
AW: I’m happy if I am with the ones I love, if I can love them, if I create and give, if I’m in nature and if I receive and give positive vibes. The only sadness I cannot solve is death.