On stereotypes:  I love stereotypes, sweeping generalizations and everything that is un-PC. Stereotypes are fun to goof around with and, in a way, you sort of diffuse them if you throw them around.

On gay food versus straight food:  People have the silly notion that there are four food groups. There is really only gay food and straight food. I’m advocating a balance of the two. An oversized beef burrito is basically a phallic symbol, it’s obviously so straight. The gayest food has got to be macaroons, in all pastels and shades. If you lived on them you would explode into a nuclear cloud of gayness. Sushi is also a gay food. You’re taking a big sloppy fish and making it into little bon bons. That seems really gay to me.

On bringing the word “naff” to America:  The word naff is a very useful term, you use it to describe something that is just really tragic and dreary and doesn’t have any style, a lack of panache. There is no American word for that.

On female inspiration:  Suzanne Bartsch was a woman I found to be really inspirational and funny.

On his message to the masses:  I want everyone to be less self-critical and feel less self-conscious, that’s my mission in life.

On his favorite designers:  Alexander Wang – he’s incredible, has such energy, he’s really groovy. Azzedine Alaia – it’s fun to go into his boutique and turn the dresses inside out, the construction and level of design is amazing. Paul Poiret – who did all the exotic stuff at the early turn of the 20th century. Also Christian Lacroix, Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto.

On International Gays: The gays in London tend to be very mod, they wear their Fred Perry’s.  In Japan its crazy, the level of flamboyance, style, and experimentation is incredible. In Paris people are so dressed up its great. There are lots of cocktail hats, lots of transgendered things but not in a drag way, more like a tweed cape and Birkin bag, but in a man way.

On Straight Man Fashion:  If you’re in America and you put a lot of attention on how you look and dress, in US context you’re going to be perceived as gay. If you do that elsewhere it may not. I have a chapter on men’s style and what I’m advocating is that gay men and straight men should dress the same but they have to pick from three looks: the perverse prep (Thom Browne, Band of Outsiders, comes from workwear) or the heritage henry (Carhartt, Levis, heritage brands) or the douchebag look (Jersey Shore, Ed Hardy, Abercrombie) it works. It’s all about juxtapositions in the world of fashion, it’s a jigsaw puzzle. It doesn’t work individually, it works as a whole.

On Fads:  There’s absolutely nothing in the fashion scene I would like to see go. I love all of it. I don’t have the ability to say “oh yes she looks terrible” because it’s all subjective — as long as she’s happy and having a good time I don’t have that need to kick her to the curb.  Probably because I’ve been so involved in fashion history I see it as a landscape. It is not about you, it is about fitting into the social landscape.

On Having Your Own Look:
You’ve got to have your own look, it’s all about self expression. Even if that is objectively kind of demented. Marc Jacobs once said fashion isn’t about trends any more, but it is about having your own look. Self expression is the key to everything. Even if you have a mullet at least you look like yourself. Good. Go buy two mullets.

“I appreciate everyone’s support for my clothing line but I wanted to clarify a few things…The name of the line is Kanye West not DW… The Dw was a design element placed on the invite in homage to my mom : )…I really appreciate the fake DW twitter page but since it’s not official I can’t co sign any information on it,” West revealed in a series of tweets.  He further explained that he funded his first show out-of-pocket and that he’s “been working at this for 8 years now …from the first offers to do urban clothing lines that I turned down.”

Among other opportunities Kanye turned down included a position, one assumes an internship, at Versace “wich [sic] I could not take due to my contract with LV which was for 2 years.” After designing his Kanye West for Louis Vuitton shoe collection, West expressed his disappointment that he wasn’t asked to do  a second. He did, however, work “at Fendi for 4 months under cover,” alleging he was “there to give ideas for the men’s collection.” West then continued his covert couturier career when he “snuck [into the] Giuseppe Zanotti Factory still under contract and learned to design woman’s shoes for 2 years before” his first show.  While in Paris, Azzedine Alaïa, whom Kanye refers to as “the master,” even came to pay his studio a visit.

From there, he talks about creative directing the Jetsons movie (?), his love/hate relationship with the Grammys, the pressures of fame, the problems with the public school system and his desire to make a difference. West also announced the creation of a new company called DONDA (“the best name ever of all companies of all time!!!”), which he describes as “a design company which will galvanize amazing thinkers and put them in a creative space to bounce there dreams and ideas.”

My first impression is to wonder what Kanye was on at the time, but as he explains, it was his dreams that kept him “woke” and tweeting from London at 5 am. Yeah, I’ve been there — must be some quality, uncut dreams. Either way, I’m fully supporting everything that West alleges, if only for the image of Kanye West sneaking into a Giuseppe Zanotti factory and chillin’ with new BFF Azzedine Alaïa.

From Le Figaro via The Cut:

From the first model on the runway, we are struck by what resembles an out-of-style Gucci collection from ten years ago. The fussy complications of the cuts (drawstrings, shirring, high-waisted skirts, leg-of-lamb sleeves), the disheveled hairstyle of a girl barely back from happy hour, and the overdone makeup… Overload is the key word of the show… The laced shoe? An ersatz model of an Alaïa. The jogging shorts in black leather? Already seen last year in Céline‘s cruise collection, as were the sandals with bracelet straps (here, encrusted with rhinestones). The coat bristling with raffia? A pale version of those in Yves Saint Laurent‘s spring 1967 collection.

And then shit gets personal:

At the end of this inventory suited to Kim Kardashian, Tom Ford appears. He advances. And he remains there, in the central area, asking people to stand up. Perhaps [people would do so] out of distress, or sympathy, or because all of this is supposed to be festive after all. But everybody just looks at their feet. The music does not stop. Ford tries to speak above the noise, louder. We can’t hear a thing. We just see this baby-faced man trying desperately to clear the air. He throw[s] himself upon his companion, Richard Buckley, and hugs him (Ralph Lauren often hugs his companion Ricky at the end of his shows, but then he returns backstage). But here everyone stays put. So Tom Ford retreats toward Anna Wintour and now it’s she whom he decides to embrace. Troubling.

A.) That comparison to Kim Kardashian is verging on out-of-line. B.) I’m pretty sure Mouzat called Ford fat with that “baby-faced” comment. And  C.) I think the most “troubling” part is that he reportedly had the cajones to publicly embrace Anna Wintour. People have died for less.

This isn’t the first time Ford has weathered bad press as noted sassbag Cathy Horyn referred to Ford’s spring 2001 Gucci show as “not just truly ugly, but also…completely at odds with his reputation as a designer who loves women.” And then there was that reporter at the Guardian, Jess Cartner-Morley, who also had some choice words for Ford’s latest collection.

So, is it a case of sour grapes, or has Tom Ford simply made an unfashionable misstep? Well, you’ll have to wait to form your own opinions when the photos come out, but everyone’s allowed a mistake every now and then. Hell, we keep Jean Paul Gaultier around and when’s the last time he did anything passably good? Oh, right. [The Cut]

Izabel Goulart, a Brazilian model whom Carine discovered at the Victoria’s Secret fashion show, turns it in a Mugler top.

For a cut-out zig, zag into this ribboned and mesh-topped tunic from Topshop for $66.

For the zag on a long sleeve shirt, check out what Karl Lagerfeld did for Macy’s for $99. Pair it with Tom Ford sunglasses for a killer downtown look.

Freedman turned to a wide variety of artists, architects and interior designers, including Rafael de Cárdenas, Joe Grillo, Peter Shelton and Lee F. Mindel of Shelton, Mindel & Associates and Benjamin Noriega-Ortiz, giving them carte blanche to create their own environments: “I said, ‘Here’s your space. That’s your room. Within that room I really want you to let your imagination fly,’” he explained.

Housed in those environments are looks by  Stella McCartney, Givenchy, Rick Owens, Holms + Yang, Azzedine Alaïa, Chloé and Céline.

Since his first installation – when Daphne Guinness turned the Barneys windows into her personal dressing room before the Met Gala — Freedman has tried “to bring in different kinds of talent to do projects and make something new and fresh.” Whereas Doonan’s windows were often whimsical and heavy on the kitsch, Freedman said he hopes to “have a dialogue between fashion and [other disciplines such as] art, design, music and architecture.”

So I guess that means no ball gowns made of recycled coffee cans? [WWD]

From Benjamin Kanarek Blog

My expectations for the last Haute Couture Fashion Week shown in Paris at the beginning of July, was not of the kind that I thought would leave a lasting impression. The Fashion Designers Showing in the Official Haute Couture schedule is shrinking from one season to the next. I would love to see a revamping of the Couture Fashion Weeks in Paris. Luckily, there were some rays of light coming through the heavy cast of clouds to brighten up my day and the confirmation of a heavy trend: the arrival of the coat-dress for the winter season.

The Good News…

Giambattista Valli presented his first Couture Collection in Paris. It is always good news to see a new comer in the Haute Couture official Schedule reinforcing the statement that Couture has a raison d’être (reason to exist). The collection is quite complete from day wear with the coat-dress, the must of the season, cocktail dresses and evening gowns. The Giambasttista Valli clients are with no doubt feminin and chic, bringing a bit of a 60′s retro feel with beige, coral, animal-printed mousselines, beige ostrich-feathers and red dresses with Valentino influences.

Iris van Herpen was invited to present a retrospective of her poetic experimental work from her “Crystallization Collection”. She worked around a concept of the transformation of liquid into crystals. The volumes and materials are more about art performances and sculptures than wearable outfits like a skeleton dress to a water spray mini-dress. Her work is very organically inspired and reminds me of Alexander McQueen or Hussein Chalayan’s most conceptual work. I see a great potential in this young fashion designer, but would like to see how she transcribes her research into commercially viable clothing.

Continue Reading Here

Sophia Coppola, Kanye West and Donatella Versace – who, it seems, invited herself – were among those lucky and not-Anna-Wintour enough to reside front row during Alaïa’s show. They got to see, up close and personal, the wool — being couture it was no less than Mongolian lamb —  the knitwear —  a “miracle” according to Style.com‘s Tim Blanks —  the cinched waists and full skirts — an ode to the designer’s trademark body-consciousness — and my favorite ladies wear staple — the coat-dresses — that made up the collection’s 25 looks.

Whatever caused the riff between Azzedine and Anna — there was a snub at the Met Gala a few years back causing longtime muse Naomi Campbell and her super friends to boycott, but methinks it goes back even further than that — readers of Vogue are the ones truly suffering. They’ll never see these gorgeous creations within those hallowed pages as long as one of them lives. And I think we all know, as per an agreement signed in blood eons ago, Anna’s not going anywhere for the next few hundred years.

But feel free to peruse some of the best looks from Alaïa Fall 2011 couture and take comfort in imagining what magic Grace Coddington could conjure up if she were given the chance.

I felt hurt for her. She is only 22 and there was a little bit of bullying going on. I didn’t give a fuck about 140,000 bloggers. In the future, we’ll look back and think she looked wild.

Let ‘em know, Treacy. And for the record, FashionIndie was on board with that hat from the get-go. Then again, we’re always a fan of a say-something hat.

Anygay, the Guardian interview is definitely a worthwhile read. Among the many interesting and fascinating tidbits Treacy relates, there’s the time he had a hat show with Liz Taylor:

A couple of years ago, I got a phone call: would Mr Treacy make a hatpin for Elizabeth Taylor? I said: “Might Miss Taylor like a hat to go with the hatpin?” and the answer was: yes. I went to see her at the Dorchester. I didn’t know whether I was going to be dealing with a very tricky person but she was a sweetheart. I thought it would be entertaining to do a hat show on her in her room – because, after all, she is an old lady. I tried 25 hats on her. She kept saying: “Which hat can I have”? And at the end I said: “You can have them all.” I gave her 25 hats. She said: “I must do something for you in return.” But I’d got my return just by hanging out with her.

…the time Lady Gaga visited  him for an internship:

[O]ne Monday morning, four burly bodyguards arrived – Lady Gaga’s security team – to check out the security of the building. I looked at them as if to say: what?! Who is going to take a pot shot at Lady Gaga? Anyway, she is young, talented and peculiar – which I like. The Brit awards were the next night and she said to her people (I loved this): “Can somebody buy me some brown underwear for tomorrow?”

…and the time the Queen almost slapped him with her royal backhand:

When I met the Queen, at a design evening at Buckingham Palace, she asked: “What do you do?” “I make hats, ma’am.” She said: “Am I the only person who wears a hat these days?” And I said: “Ma’am, you have kept hats alive in the imagination of people all over the world.” When you meet the Queen, you are not supposed to ask questions. But I thought: what the hell. So I looked her in the eye and said: “Ma’am, do you enjoy wearing hats?” And she stood back and said: “It is part of the uniform.”

Imagine? A.) having a conversation about hats with Queen Elizabeth II and B.) the look of righteous indignation on her face after asking her if she enjoys something that is as sacred to her as England itself. I would’ve soiled my knickers.

Mostly out of joy. [Guardian]

Photo: My Fashion Life

Turns out Alaïa is not that big a fan of either Chanel commander Karl Lagerfeld or Vogue‘s bobbed despot Anna Wintour.

About Lagerfeld, the diminutive designer mused:

“Happily, women love me and buy my clothes, unlike Karl who’s never been loved like me! [Laughs.] . . . I don’t like his fashion, his spirit, his attitude. It’s too much caricature. Karl Lagerfeld never touched a pair of scissors in his life. That doesn’t mean that he’s not great, but he’s part of another system. He has capacity. One day he does photography, the next he does advertisements for Coca-Cola. I would rather die than see my face in a car advertisement. We don’t do the same work. And I think that he is not doing a favor to young [designers] who might think it works that way. They’re going to fall before they retire.”

Buuuuurrrnnn. As for Wintour, there’s certainly no love lost there:

“I said it before. She runs the business [of Vogue] very well, but not the fashion part. When I see how she is dressed, I don’t believe in her tastes one second. I can say it loudly! She hasn’t photographed my work in years even if I am a best seller in the US and I have 140 square meters at Barneys. American women love me; I don’t need her support at all. Anna Wintour doesn’t deal with pictures; she is just doing PR and business, and she scares everybody. But when she sees me, she is the scared one. [Laughs.] Other people think like me, but don’t say it because they are afraid that Vogue won’t photograph them. Anyway, who will remember Anna Wintour in the history of fashion? No one. Take Diana Vreeland, she is remembered because she was so chic. What she did with the magazine was great, with Avedon and all the great photographers. Vogue remains while its fashion editors come and go.”

Seriously, that’s the ballsiest thing I’ve ever heard, read or seen. If Azzedine Alaïa wasn’t literally 300 years old and a totally important designer, his head would be mounted above the fireplace of Anna Wintour’s stately country manor. Right next to Sienna Miller. [Fashionologie]

- The next chapter of that sad story will actually begin on June 22nd when Galliano takes the stand. It was previously thought he would miss his first day in court due to rehab, but he’ll be there with his couture bells on. [Vogue UK]

- Noted paragon of virtue, Lady Gaga, flashed her aquamarine mirkin at the MuchMusic Video Awards. [Styleite]

- Meanwhile, BFF Nicola Formichetti is flashing some serious man-skin for Mugler‘s upcoming menswear show in Brothers of Arcadia, a two-part promotional video inspired by the Greek gods. And in a move the ancient Greeks would no doubt applaud, an uncensored version of the videos will be available on XTube. [Fashionista]

- Kate Moss is marrying Jamie Hince in two days and the monumental event, dubbed Mosstock, will apparently be at the super’s home and will provide guests with a “full festival experience.” [Modelina]

- The latest rumor about former Vogue Paris editrix and current Independent Woman, Carine Roitfeld, is that she is starting her own independently published magazine. [Hint]

Rucksacks - Perfect for music festivals and adventure-filled getaways, these backpacks will ensure your belongings stay near.

Clockwise from top left:
Billionaire Boys Club Miawaiian Night Rucksack $410, fashionbeans.com

Roxy Creative Peak Rucksack $46, zappos.com

Gucci Classic Logo Rucksack $935, profilebrighton.co.uk

Zara Kit Bag Rucksack $29.90, zara.com

Topshop Tan Washed Oversize Rucksack $75, us.topshop.com

Weekenders - Great for a three-day getaway, these carryalls will have you traveling to the best weekend destinations in high style.

Clockwise from top left:
Fossil Key-Per Weekender $138, macys.com

Billykirk x Opening Ceremony Red Stripe Carryall $300, openingceremony.us

Robe di Firenze Italian Leather Carry All Travel Bag $622, forzieri.com

Design Within Reach Masonry Weekender Bag $150 – $175, dwr.com

Betsey Johnson Betsey Babe Weekender $148, betseyjohnson.com

Totes - Everyone needs a good tote for farmer’s market shopping, camera carrying and extra shoe stowing, even on vacation.

Clockwise from top:
Bamboula Ltd. Market Tote $58, madewell.com

Kate Spade New York Felice Tote $295, couture.zappos.com

Azzedine Alaïa Beige Petal Shape Perforated Leather Tote $2,284, montaignemarket.com

Marc by Marc Jacobs Lucy Ostrich-Effect PVC Tote $400, net-a-porter.com

Kate Spade New York Cabana Stripe Medium Raelin $325, katespade.com

Crossbodies - Whether at a summer concert or just out for the night, a crossbody bag is small and easy to carry on all your getaways.

Clockwise from top left:
Rebecca Minkoff ‘Double Rocker’ Crossbody Bag $330, nordstrom.com

Lodis Cayman Cameron Crossbody $158, lodis.com

See By Chloé Poya Small Crossbody Bag $330, harveynichols.com

Armani Exchange Wood Frame Crossbody Bag $88, armaniexchange.com

Hype Handbag Ellie Crossbody Bag $131, macys.com

If you like what you see, tweet at me @CrystlMeatballs and tell me your favorites. What is your go-to bag for summer traveling?

The reclusive designer announced yesterday that he would present a line of “semicouture” during Paris’ Couture Fashion Week, which runs from July 4th-8th.

After the death of his sister in the mid-90s, Alaïa chose to retreat from the spotlight and presented only to a chosen few at his studio. Despite this, his designs remained popular with Madonna, Victoria Beckham, Carine Roitfeld, Michelle Obama and of course, adopted daughter, Naomi Campbell. [Vogue UK]

1. Paris Is Burning (1990)

Set amidst the backdrop of 80s New York ball culture, Paris Is Burning is an exploration of beauty, race, sexuality, capitalism and the American Dream, all wrapped up in a dragtastic homage to the transformative powers of fashion. Also, where do you think Madonna learned to Vogue?

See Also: To Wong Foo — Thanks for Everything! Julie Newmar (1994) Drag queens, yes; acute social commentary, not so much…but how can you argue with this? Oh, that’s right, you can’t.

Right to left, from top left:

BeaValdes for CoutureLab “Azzura” Necklace $2,764, couturelab.com

Eugenia Kim Gabriella Feather-Trimmed Fedora $345, net-a-porter

Cacharel Cutler & Gross Circular Lens Sunglasses $525, openingceremony.us

Azzedine Alaïa Skirt $2,800, colette.fr

Manish Arora Pop Dress $1,072, bombayelectric.in

All Saints Elkin Poncho $165, allsaints.com

Aldo Barges Bangles $18, aldoshoes.com

Aldo Croner Peep Toe Pumps $70, aldoshoes.com

American Apparel Nail Polish $6, store.americanapparel.net

Old Navy Aztec-Print Bucket Bag $19.94, oldnavy.gap.com

How are you going to celebrate the holiday?

From: Benjamin Kanarek Blog

With a touch of a ’60s feel in her Vidal Sassoon and Peggy Moffitt haircut, Amber Anderson Model and Actress is posing for Benjamin Kanarek in Harper’s BAZAAR en Español, May 2011 presenting the major Ready-to-Wear Fashion Trends of the Spring-Summer 2011 Collections. (You can also read more about Amber Anderson: here).

Sensational Graphic Prints of Stripes and Waves from Diane Von Furstenberg, Azzedine Alaïa, Moschino, Playful Polka Dots from Moschino and Marni Scuba and Cycling look, Titillating Tribal Prints from Etro to Cacharel that makes you want to dance all night long, Savory Solid and Block Colors from Jill Sander long tube line dress and Louis Vuitton jumpsuit, as well as an Abstract Illusion leather vacuum-packed dress from Maison Martin Margiela.

Take bold and brash risks this season in Mixing and Matching. “Melange” is the key in coming up with your own delightfully invigorating new look. Don’t be Afraid and Mix It Up!

Hipnosis Optica

The unique furniture pieces from Designers and Fine Artists featured at La Galerie Italienne in Paris, immerse us in a graphic, vitaminized color, contemporary shaped universe which defines the fashion ambiance of the Season.

The Behind the Scenes Video

Hipnosis Optica with Amber Anderson by Benjamin Kanarek in Harper’s BAZAAR en Español –  May 2011 issue

Watch the Behind the Scene’s Video

The Team

Photography and Co-Creative Direction by Benjamin Kanarek
Co-Creative Direction & Video Direction by Frédérique Renaut
Model: Amber Anderson @ Oui Management
Fashion Editor: Alexandra Elbim
Make Up by Angelik Iffennecker @ Marie-France Thavonekham
Hair by Sébastien le Corroller @ Airport
Manicure by Kamel @ B Agency
Digital Retouching by Freddy Baby, Paris

Assitants
Benjamin Kanarek’s Assistant: Timothée d’Arco
Alexandra Elbim’s Assistants: Marie Dehé
Angelik Iffennecker’s Assistant: Véronique Reina

Special Thanks to Thierry Bys for his help & support

Special Thanks to La Galerie Italienne

Soundtrack Credits

Stereophonics, Pedalpusher
N*E*R*D, Baby Doll
The Kills, I Call It Love

LINK LOVE: The Cut

10 ‘fashion gods’ were each captured by the photographer of their choice for the tenth anniversary of 10 Magazine. Helmut Lang sent in a passport photo, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana by Terry Richardson, Vivienne Westwood by Juergen Teller, Ralph Lauren by Bruce Weber, and Karl Lagerfeld submitted a self-portrait. Alber Elbaz, Azzedine Alaia, Donatella Versace, John Galliano, and Tom Ford are the others.

LINK LOVE: Fashionologie

Daphne Guinness will exhibit part of her wardrobe at the Fashion Institute of Technology in September 2011. About 80 to 100 pieces including outfits by McQueen, Balenciaga, Comme des Garçons, Dolce & Gabbana and Azzedine Alaïa will be in a show on her personal style, which will run through January 2012.

LINK LOVE: WWD

Katie Holmes looks darling wearing sheer black with an Azzedine Alaia skirt. Also love that she’s growing her hair out.

Image via Just Jared

Amazing Alaia leather cut out boots to lust over, start saving now cuz these are $2,680.

LINK LOVE

“I wore an Azzedine Alaïa brown snakeskin dress, which he tortured me for about two months to get into, but at least it’s something I can wear again. I didn’t want some stupid white dress; it seems like such a waste.”

And children: “It’s a bit like going to India — I can’t ever imagine myself going. I just never wanted to have kids.”

LINK: NY Mag via Times UK

Remember when Jourdan Dunn was just a fresh faced teenager? Now the English beauty is a big name in fashion.

Titled “It Will Be Ready, When It’s Ready” from i-D November 2008, Jourdan stared in the above spread shot by Alasdair McLellan for a story on Azzedine Alaïa’s designs.

GALLERY: Jourdan Dunn for i-D

LINKAGE: fashiongonerogue

The newest issue of V mag (with a glow in the dark cover) hit stores last week featuring a spread by Terry Richardson called “Little Black Dresses.”

The dresses: 1986 by Azzedine Alaia, 1996 by Syrilla, 2001 by Helmut Lang, and 2009 by Comme Des Garçons.

LINKAGE: The Pipeline

The spread is in the March 2009 issue of Interview.

GALLERY: Gisele for Interview, March 2009.

Willy Vanderperre shot Kasia Struss for Azzedine Alaia’s Spring 2009 lookbook.  The shots are pretty straightforward, but pretty nonetheless, true to the spirit of Alaia’s designs. 

GALLERY: Azzedine Alaia Spring 2009 Lookbook