- Karlie Kloss, movie star. Kloss’ rise to superstardom in the world of modeling means that Hollywood will begin knocking on her door, if they haven’t rammed it down already. Karlie may be following in the strides of other model-turned-actress Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and is eschewing the catwalk for the film studio.

- Maybe she’s born with it, maybe it’s a beauty contract. While the runway pays well for girls of Karlie’s stature, a beauty campaign can set a model on the catwalk to Easy Street for the rest of her life. Since snagging Estée Lauder, when’s the last time you saw Hilary Rhoda walk a show?

- Karlie Kloss, new creative director at Christian Dior. This may be a bit of a stretch, but the house does love them some Kloss. She hasn’t missed a step in a single Dior show — from couture to resort — in years and Bernard Arnault might want to just keep her around.

- Strike a pose, there’s nothing to it. As everyone knows, models making the cover of Vogue is as rare as a viable Republican candidate for the presidency. So what better reason to cancel on Fashion Week than to jet off to Paris for an exclusive shoot with Mario Testino for a star-making cover?

- Karlie Kloss DiCaprio. After she walked in the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show, Leonardo DiCaprio was reportedly smitten with the leggy Ms. Kloss. He’s landed Gisele and Bar Refaeli, why not add the newest bright young thing to his collection of catwalkers?

What do you think — Where in the World if Karlie Kloss?

- Diane von Furstenberg thinks Bernard Arnault should throw his $41-billion weight around and step in to solve the ongoing skirmish over the fashion week calendar. [WSJ]

Photo: People

- Britney Spears‘ fiance, Justin Trawick apparently told jeweler Neil Lane he “didn’t want an over-the-top ring with a giant stone.” So Lane instead opted for subtlety and nothing says subtlety like 90 small diamonds around a big — but not giant — diamond. [People]

- Between Lanvin Petite‘s $1570 trenches and Young Versace‘s new boutique featuring a merry-go-round, kids are hitting the runway before hitting the playground. [WWD, WWD]

- Someone clearly lost a finger over this appearance on Anderson Cooper‘s talk show. No one makes Madonna sound like two obese gimps going at it in a pool of hot wax and gets away with it. [Styleite]

- Some people are real assholes during the holidays. [Racked]

- And some people are surprisingly amazing. [Jezebel]

- Nicole “Snooki” Polizzi is getting the Juicy Couture sweatpants sued right off of her. The pocket-guidette filed suit to end her contract with licensing company, SRG Ventures in October. SRG has now countered with their own suit to the tune of $7 million, but jokes on them: all of Snooki’s assets are tied up in Valtrex stock and deep-fried pickle bonds. [NY Post]

The caveat that broke the camel’s back was Jacobs’ insistence on taking his Louis Vuitton team with him to Dior, leaving Vuitton — LVMH’s cash cow — without a heel to stand on. To make matters worse, Arnault had wanted Céline‘s Phoebe Philo to replace Marc at Vuitton should he move to Dior, but Philo is happy where she is — outfitting Kanye West in billowy blouses.

So with Jacobs more or less off the table, LVMH has reportedly approached Alexander Wang, Jason Wu and Jil Sander‘s Raf Simons; though out of the three Simons would seem the most likely choice, that is unless Dior plans on eschewing breathtaking gowns and impeccably-crafted ladysuits for sweatpants and cocktail dresses.

Then there is Givenchy‘s Riccardo Tisci, whose name has been bandied about since Gallianogate got into full swing. But he — along with Lanvin‘s Alber Elbaz, Alexander McQueen‘s Sarah Burton and Balenciaga‘s Nicolas Ghesquière – has turned down the Dior deal, citing brand loyalty.

So the question still remains — and frankly, the question is getting really tiresome — who will take the reins at Christian Dior? However, by the time someone is announced, the question might be, who the hell cares? [WWD]

Dior has been without a creative director since that little incident with John Galliano — you know, the anti-Semitism and the firing and the rehab and the court case — since March.

Arnault, chairman of LVMH — which also owns Marc Jacobs International — had initially planned on hiring Jacobs for Dior back in the 90s, but that idea was vetoed by Dior’s then president Francois Baufume. Instead, Galliano was hired from Givenchy to Dior and Jacobs signed on as Vuitton’s artistic director in 1997.

“Had I hired Marc Jacobs for Dior and John Galliano for Louis Vuitton, it would not have worked as well for both brands, even though both designers are geniuses of their own,” Arnault told WWD in 2003.

Meetings are scheduled for this week in Paris between Dior and Marc Jacobs’ legal representatives while the designer prepares for New York Fashion Week. Robert Duffy, Jacobs’ longtime business partner, is also reported to be integral to the deal, despite currently having legal troubles of his own.

Should Jacobs move to Dior, Phoebe Philo is said to be on tap to replace him at Louis Vuitton, while maintaining her current role at Céline.

Since March, Dior has approached a number of designers to replace Galliano including Lanvin‘s Alber Elbaz, Balenciaga‘s Nicolas Ghesquière, Alexander McQueen‘s Sarah Burton, Haider Ackermann and Hedi Slimane. Elbaz, Ghesquière and Burton have allegedly withdrawn themselves from the running due to their strong personal commitments to their respective brands, while talks with Ackermann and Slimane proved fruitless.

Then, of course, there is Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci whose name has been bandied about as frontrunner for months now and who is a favorite of Delphine Arnault, deputy managing director at Dior. Where Tisci stands in all this is uncertain, but do you think Marc Jacobs is what Christian Dior needs right now? [WWD]

Photo: DatPiff

Since being released Friday, over 14,000  people have downloaded the mixtape while it’s been streamed over 47,000 times. People love them some free shit, I guess.

Featuring tracks such as “Fire Blunts,” “Came With That Choppa” and “20Min Freeestyle” — which is exactly what it sounds like —  it’s doubtful that Arnault himself would give his stamp of approval…especially since Soulja Boy refers to him as “Robert Arnault” at least twice over the course of the EP.

However, you can’t buy publicity like the lolling “Louis Vuitton,” on which the rapper references the brand some 63 times including this little gem: “LV Bags, LV pants with that LV sag/ It don’t make no sense why these n****s hate/ It don’t make no sense why they LV fake/ But mine’s real.”

There’s Louis V’s campaign against counterfeits right there.

If you hate yourself but love shitty songs about luxury (“Money Can Buy You Class”!) you can download the Bernard Arnault EP at Dat Piff. [WWD]

]]> http://fashionindie.com/the-bernard-arnault-ep/feed/ 0 http://fashionindie.com/the-only-french-toast-anna-wintour-condones/ http://fashionindie.com/the-only-french-toast-anna-wintour-condones/#comments Thu, 07 Jul 2011 11:25:53 +0000 Lester Brathwaite http://fashionindie.com/?p=200800 French president Nicholas Sarkozy presented Vogue‘s editrix in chief Anna Wintour with the Legion of Honor award of merit last night at Paris’ Élysée Palace. After receiving the prize, she mindlessly threw it amongst her other awards, the Order of the British Empire and the head of Carine Roitfeld.

Photos: Vogue.it

On hand to toast Wintour — who never met a Chanel bouclé tweed she didn’t drape over her frail back — were Karl Lagerfeld, Donatella Versace with bff Riccardo Tisci — fresh off his glorious fall 2011 haute couture collection for Givenchy – Lanvin‘s Alber Elbaz, Anna’s Italian counterpart Franca Sozzani, Mario Testino, LVMH head honcho Bernard Arnault, YSL‘s Stefano Pilati, Burberry‘s Christopher Bailey,  Tommy Hilfiger, professional dandy and Vogue‘s editor-at-large Hamish Bowles and the Rhoda to Anna’s Mary, Grace Coddington.

According to the Kaiser, “We had this very nice cocktail, where Anna made a very funny speech.” I have a hard time believing at least one of those facts. [WWD]

Click through for more picture from Vogue Italia that were apparently taken by a drunk intern with an iPhone.

The changing of the guard at any house is bound to cause some ripples –  a loss of both footing and vision — and considering the immense talent Gaytten is following, it’s understandable he would want to assert his own voice into the Dior lexicon.

Gaytten’s voice was, however, lost in translation, producing one of the sloppiest and most incoherent couture shows I’ve seen in a while.

Granted, I’m observing, much like you, from my laptop thousands of miles away and thus the intricacies of the gowns are lost on me. Still, with haute couture, particularly with Dior Haute Couture,  there’s a brilliance that shines through in spite of the viewer’s distance or technical knowledge.

No doubt the pieces were brilliantly and painstakingly constructed by one of the most, if not the most, talented atelier in the world, but without Galliano’s influence there’s no clear identifying vision.

Instead, there are garish colors thrown together rather haphazardly with even more garish prints; an abundance of overworked and unfinished taffeta, gazar and organza that just ended up looking messy; and a jarring lack of cohesion that only hinted at the Dior aesthetic without fully realizing it.

If not for the big budget and even bigger name behind it all, this show could easily be mistaken for a graduate show from FIT or, even worse, a Project Runway finale collection.

Though the Christian Dior aesthetic was lost on its own couture show, it was certainly found by Giambattista Valli.

In his couture debut, Valli presented a beautiful collection heavy on the drama and on Old Hollywood, two Galliano trademarks that Valli managed to make his own. Hopefully Sidney Toledano and Bernard Arnault, the head honchos at Dior and parent company LVMH respectively, were paying attention.

Photos: Style.com

- Hussein Chalayan was “devastated” when Tom Ford passed him over in 2001 for being “too avant-garde.” I guess birthing eggs weren’t what Gucci was looking for back then. [Vogue UK]

- Vogue‘s coveted September cover will go to Kate Moss and her wedding, shot by go-to Wintour lensman, Mario Testino. And Vanity Fair is going decidedly classy by shooting Lindsay Lohan while under house arrest for their September issue. [Page Six]

- Apparently, Princess Beatrice has been listening to the haters and has hired full-blown fashionista Emma Watson‘s stylist for $2400/day. Meanwhile, throw that glorified basketball hoop of a Philip Treacy hat back on and stop boring me. [Styleite]

- Ice queen Johnny Weir will be the face of MAC Cosmetics‘ holiday collection, “Glitter and Ice.” [Page Six]

- And if that isn’t gay enough for you, check out the windows of Michael Kors Bleecker Street  location in celebration of the recently passed same-sex marriage bill. Those brides are actually drag queens, FYI. [Racked]

Photo: NYT

Horyn, in her usual straight-shooter fashion, posits that Galliano’s very public unraveling could have been avoided had Bernard Arnault and Dior chief exectuive Sidney Toledano “sufficiently addressed” his problems:

“Nothing about this affair has ever felt right — not his abusive comments, not his self-destructive behavior, not the way he was dismissed….His personality and showmanship were definitely part of Dior’s success, and maybe there was a fear of meddling with it.”

Speaking on the condition of anonymity, an executive at LVMH told Horyn there had been “casual discussions” about Galliano returning to his eponymous label. Both this and another executive seemed to think that the media and public would accept the return and resurgence of John Galliano.

Horyn thinks, and I certainly agree, that John Galliano deserves a second chance, but what do you think, dear readers? Is it too late to save his once-brilliant career or does time — and rehab — heal all wounds? [NYT]

Photo: My Fashion Life

Turns out Alaïa is not that big a fan of either Chanel commander Karl Lagerfeld or Vogue‘s bobbed despot Anna Wintour.

About Lagerfeld, the diminutive designer mused:

“Happily, women love me and buy my clothes, unlike Karl who’s never been loved like me! [Laughs.] . . . I don’t like his fashion, his spirit, his attitude. It’s too much caricature. Karl Lagerfeld never touched a pair of scissors in his life. That doesn’t mean that he’s not great, but he’s part of another system. He has capacity. One day he does photography, the next he does advertisements for Coca-Cola. I would rather die than see my face in a car advertisement. We don’t do the same work. And I think that he is not doing a favor to young [designers] who might think it works that way. They’re going to fall before they retire.”

Buuuuurrrnnn. As for Wintour, there’s certainly no love lost there:

“I said it before. She runs the business [of Vogue] very well, but not the fashion part. When I see how she is dressed, I don’t believe in her tastes one second. I can say it loudly! She hasn’t photographed my work in years even if I am a best seller in the US and I have 140 square meters at Barneys. American women love me; I don’t need her support at all. Anna Wintour doesn’t deal with pictures; she is just doing PR and business, and she scares everybody. But when she sees me, she is the scared one. [Laughs.] Other people think like me, but don’t say it because they are afraid that Vogue won’t photograph them. Anyway, who will remember Anna Wintour in the history of fashion? No one. Take Diana Vreeland, she is remembered because she was so chic. What she did with the magazine was great, with Avedon and all the great photographers. Vogue remains while its fashion editors come and go.”

Seriously, that’s the ballsiest thing I’ve ever heard, read or seen. If Azzedine Alaïa wasn’t literally 300 years old and a totally important designer, his head would be mounted above the fireplace of Anna Wintour’s stately country manor. Right next to Sienna Miller. [Fashionologie]

His signs were precise lines, sweeping in motion first in pencil, then in ink, filled with marker. Each mark has purpose. He was an architect, trained meticulously as such. Thus every millimeter matters when it blossoms in the third dimension. Because of his unique perspective, he was hired by Bernard Arnault in 1986 to be the Stylistic Director of Christian Dior, where he remained for a decade.

Within the pages of this book, you see the evolution of his work through the late 70s to the late 90s. What begins with simple strokes of the pencil and pen black and white, soon explodes with stripes, color, embellishments on ever more abstract bodies.

Though the figures are stylized in his highly exaggerated high hip, the detail is impeccable. See for yourself.

It’s an illustrated journey through the late 20th century via the pen point of one of the world’s finest designers.

What owning this book says about you: You are captivated by the art behind the designs.

What your dinner guests will say upon seeing this book on your coffee table: Ah, Ferré, an intellectual.

How this book will make your fashion brain grow: The sketch is rarely seen, only the finished garments, so this takes you deeper into the creative process of design. You will also see how fashion aligns with architecture through precise lines.

If you like this, you’ll love: Fashion Illustration by Fashion Designers by Laird Borrelli

As France’s finest ambassador, Christian Dior assembled 120 couture dream gowns alongside paintings and photographs that have inspired the house’s designers throughout the years. Artists that have ignited beauty at Dior include Matisse, Cezanne, Shirin Neshat, Malevich, Toulouse-Lautrec, Pierre Bonnard, Man Ray, Gustav Klimt, and other sensations.

With a room dedicated solely to Dior perfumes and their campaign posters, another to recreating the feel of Monsieur Dior’s atelier and the grand hall featured suspended dresses in giant glass tubes. The curators did not shy away from John Galliano‘s greatest work despite, well, you know, as his Mitzah gown from spring ’97 sprawled its pink ruffles onto the museum floor and his sheer angelic winged cloud-like gown. Yves Saint Laurent‘s short tulle evening gown from fall ’59 lit up the exhibit.

Model Natalia Vodianova an 330 other guests took the magnitude of Dior in with awe. It was an exhibit as only could be executed with the help of Bernard Arnault and an army of 100 fashion-art dedicated workers. It left a deep impression on the fashion elite and oil tycoons alike.

If you’re in Russia, this exhibit will be open at the Pushkin Museum through July 24th. If you have no Russian adventures in your future, bask in the glory of these images.

Link Love: WWD

Images by Igor Rodin

- Australian retailers are now charging shoppers as much as $50 to try on clothes in an effort to cut back on people buying discounted fashions online after perfecting the fit in-store. The fee is refundable, however, should patrons decide to buy the article of clothing. Personally, I never try on clothes, mostly because I’m lazy. If I get home and something is too big I’ll call it “oversized” and if it’s too small, I call it an “aspirational piece.” I also love finding reasons to not eat, which I call “going on a diet.” [Daily Mail]

- Riccardo Tisci is still the front-runner to replace John Galliano at Dior, but his name is being bandied about with the likes of Olivier Theyskens, Tom Ford, Hedi Slimane, Nicolas Ghesquière, Alber Elbaz, Sarah Burton, Haider Ackermann and Prabal Gurung. Tisci has reportedly already sketched out his vision for the brand and has a supporter in Delphine Arnault, Bernard’s daughter and Dior’s deputy managing director. However, Bernard Arnault‘s eyeing the Royal Wedding, hoping to align Dior with the young couple; so if Burton catches Kate Middleton‘s sartorial bouquet she could be next on the list. The atelier is nevertheless hard at work on their upcoming cruise collection and a couture collection for July. [WWD]

- LVMH head honcho Bernard Arnault met with President Obama on his trip to the nation’s capital last Thursday where the two discussed employment and globalization. According to Arnault: “I think he [Obama]  is really committed to creating jobs in America, and I explained to him that we have created jobs in California with one of our ateliers, and also in Napa Valley, where we are producing wine in America.” Well, there you go. Clothes and booze, America’s favorite pastimes…at least the booze. Let’s just turn everything over to wineries, breweries and vodka distilleries. In these trying times, who doesn’t just want to get fucked up?. [WWD]

- Legendary supermodel, Jean Shrimpton will be the focus of a new BBC film, We’ll Take Manhattan, starring Karen Gillan of Doctor Who fame. The film, set to begin filming in May, will analyze The Shrimp’s influence on fashion and her relationship with photographer David Bailey, particularly through the lens of a 1962 photoshoot for Vogue. I’m hoping there’s a cameo by a young Anna Wintour who, upon seeing Shrimpton and Bailey shooting for Vogue, gets an idea into her head then immediately bobs her hair, dons a pair of sunglasses and skins a bear alive to wear as a fur coat. That’s my own personal Anna Wintour creation myth. [Modelina]

- And in other celebrity vanity fragrance news, fembot Britney Spears is being sued by Brand Sense for allegedly cutting them out on a deal with Elizabeth Arden over Brit’s Radiance perfume. Brand Sense is seeking $10 million and I’m seeking “internet star” turned “TV star” Chris Crocker to scream through smeared eye-liner to leave that fembot alone! She’s got a tour to sleepwalk through, for Gaga‘s sake! [Radar]

- I used to think the Great Recession would never end. Then I lost interest when something shiny flew in front of my face and months later people were still on the fence about it. Well, no more! LVMH, the world’s larges luxury group, has reported some record-breaking sales and earnings for 2010. Champagne showers and gold coin baths for everyone! [WWD]

- Among other things LVMH reported, Dior is in no rush to replace John Galliano. The house, according to Bernard Arnault, the CEO of LVMH, Dior will see a number of candidates then weigh its options. In the meantime, Dior’s design studios will soldier on sans a creative director to meet the Fashion Week deadline. Riccardo Tisci must be getting the fashion equivalent of blue balls…cerulean bugle beads…?  [WWD]

Source Benjamin Kanarek Blog

Haider Ackermann for W Magazine © Inez van Lamsveerde & Vinoodh Matadin

I have been observing the evolution of Haider Ackermann for several seasons, as he is one of my favorite new designers when it comes to womens’ clothing. In my humble opinion, his last two seasons in Paris outclassed all of the other Designers’ Women Collections by a long shot.

Haider Ackermann’s Amazons

Haider Ackermann reveals a contrasted silhouette, nomadic, romantic and yet is strong and assertive. His fashion does not scream out loud, it is strong and confident enough to drive all of the attention by it’s solemn and majestic design in to the new Amazon. He is a master of cut and volume. This is apparent when it comes to emphasizing long silhouettes and hemlines which gives an impression of an endless line with deconstructed layers as well as strong Japanese and Yves Saint Laurent influences. His U-Slit line for skirts and dresses has become one of his trademarks as well as his recurrent usage of silk and leather.

Haider Ackermann, Franco-Colombian, is a world citizen with a unique mix. Born in Sante Fe de Bogotta, Colombia, were he was adopted by French Parents (his father works for Amnesty International), he grew up living in various countries throughout Europe and Africa (Tchad, Ethiopia, Algeria, The Netherlands, Belgium where he studied at The Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp and won the Swiss Textile Award in 2005). His background transpires in his fashion full of contrast. “I’m looking for a luxury that’s a bit négligé, that can be rich but doesn’t look rich” (From W Magazine’s Interview W Magazine).

He started working for different designers the likes of Bernhard Willhelm, Patrick Van Ommeslaeghe and in March 2001, he started to show his collections in Paris for the Autumn-Winter 2001-2002 season. In 2002, the Italian Luxury Leather House, Ruffo asked him to collaborate on the Ruffo Research Collection and in 2005, he signed with the Belgian Groupe 32 and moved to Paris.

Haider Ackermann’s ascension to… Christian Dior?

The recent rumors about him going to Christian Dior to replace John Galliano are persistent and I have noticed quite a few interesting signals over the last 6 months. Implying that Galliano’s departure was known within some circles for quite a while, I would rather not speculate.

Mr. Ackermann’s style would be a good fit for Christian Dior, injecting a romantic and flamboyant style for the assertive Dior woman. The Artistic Direction would change from that of the Galliano era, but perhaps the brand was in need of a more tempered and chic approach. For ten years, Galliano had a profound conspicuous effect on the brand. The younger generation may not remember that he was preceded by GianFranco Ferré, Marc Bohan (for almost 30 years) as well as Yves Saint Laurent prior to him creating his own brand, after Christian Dior passed away. Haider Ackermann has all of the creative assets to express himself in both areas i.e. Couture the “Tailleur ” (tailoring) and “Flou” (gowns) and Ready-To-Wear.

Troubling synchronicity

The recent endorsement by Anna Wintour in American VOGUE’s March issue featuring Haider Ackermann’s fashion worn by Lady Gaga on the cover as well as the editorial within, is a rather troubling synchronicity.

His recent refusal to Martin Margiela to replace him as the head of Maison Martin Margiela and  Karl Lagerfeld’s declaration in Numero, November 2010  “I have a contract for life so it all depends who I would like to hand it to. At the moment I’d say Haider Ackermann”. Lagerfeld had invited Ackermann to attend the last Chanel show and Ackermann responded, by stating, “What can one possibly say to such a phrase?! Such a compliment! How honored I feel, how can one not be?! In all honesty, tremendously, immensely touched especially coming from Monsieur Lagerfeld”. Then again, two days ago, he declared in L’Express Style : “I would not mind confronting myself to codes from another Fashion House”.

Some recent celebrity endorsement’s from Actress and fashion muse Tilda Swinton on the red carpet of the 2009 Cannes Film Festival and Janet Jackson attending his October 2010 show in Paris are just a small sample of some of the artists excited by his work.

One of the observations I have made is that his internet presence via advertising banners by one of his distributors has been very heavy since the beginning of 2011. These ad banners are being shown with a frequency that generally only occurs as a build up to a huge product launch.

Very troubling facts or positive synchronicity?

Will Haider Ackermann’s ascension lead him to… Christian Dior? Is that a guess? No, I would rather call it wishful thinking. I would not like to see Riccardo Tisci move from Givenchy where he does great work. It would become systematic that all of the designers going to Givenchy would end up at Christian Dior. Galliano, McQueen who left for PPR group and not for Dior and then Tisci? Givenchy is not a footstep for Dior, it is a brand with a great legacy that deserves more consideration.

By Frédérique Renaut and to Watch Video’s

The fashion Industry was in uproar last week after John Galliano was dismissed as Creative Director from Christian Dior following numerous anti-Semitic allegations made against the designer. Galliano has denied all allegations made against him and claimed that he is of partial Jewish ancestry, although this has not been verified. The dismissal on 1^st March came immediately following the release of a video clip of the designer, who was unquestionably inebriated, stating, “I love Hitler”.

When I first heard the news and watched the video post that was made public over the World Wide Web, I was unsurprised by his behavior and by the reaction from Dior.

I was introduced to the designer after the 2009 Spring-Summer Haute Couture Dior show, in January 2009 and while he was polite, my lasting impressions of him were not favorable. I found him to have a thick and unattractive façade. It has long been known within the fashion industry that Galliano was prone to living a hedonistic lifestyle that resulted in drink and drug related addictions and although it seemed he had been clean for some time, there were rumors circulating that he had relapsed, partly due to the pressure of producing 12 collections a year. He was responsible for six collections for Dior, including the bi-annual Haute Couture, and six collections for his own label. Recent speculation that he had been increasingly less involved with the design process for Dior over the past few years was also starting to emerge.

Christian Dior is the largest holding company within LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy) the world’s leading luxury goods conglomerate. Billionaire financier, Bernard Arnault owns 48% of LVMH and in turn, the company, which creates billions of dollars in revenue every year, can easily afford to ensure video clips such as these never see the light of day. Yet, on this occasion, they chose not to.

The fact that Dior fired the designer so promptly, confirmed a personal prediction that the company had been looking for a way to let him go for some time due to repeated displays of inappropriate behavior. The leaked footage, which was not the first of its kind, was the final piece of evidence needed to terminate their chief designer without a pay off that would have been in the region of $25 million.

After all, Christian Dior was established as a couture house post World War II and was considered to represent a new beginning. Given this legacy, Galliano’s comments were as much anti-Dior as they were anti-Semitic.

While I accept that there are people in this world who, through lack of education or for their own reasons, are racially intolerant, Galliano’s words were inarguably appalling. However, given the encouragement from the amateur filmmaker, on this occasion, they may well have been for shock value. Galliano’s personality, like his work, is known for being theatrical and provocative. Even accepting this possibility, one can’t help but wonder what might have been behind his hateful comments. In the video, Galliano tells the woman, “You are ugly”. Since the designer does not possess model good looks himself, most viewers have inferred that his remarks were an attempt to cover his deep-rooted depression and insecurity.

More than the reason behind the tirade, I have been intrigued by the mixed reactions. Academy Award winning actress, Natalie Portman, who had an endorsement contract with Dior for its fragrance Miss Dior Chérie, made this statement, “I am deeply shocked and disgusted by the video of John Galliano’s comments. I hope at the very least, these terrible comments remind us to reflect upon these prejudices that are the opposite of all that is beautiful.”

Meanwhile, costume designer Patricia Field, defended Galliano’s tirade as being “misunderstood theatre.” While there are mixed opinions within the fashion elite, many insiders have refused to comment, other than to suggest, “It is a shame.” I was interested to pinpoint what precisely people felt was a shame. Is it the fact that he is no longer Creative Director of Dior? Or that he would make such remarks? A general consensus seemed to indicate that editors felt it was a shame this incident had tarred the fashion Industry while Karl Largerfeld stated, “It is a horrible image for fashion.”

While it clearly isn’t a positive reflection, I hardly feel that the general public looks upon the directors of the fashion world as saintly. For many outsiders, who have never met a designer in their life, the closest image they have to relate to, are the characters from ‘The Devil Wears Prada.’

Rather more, because of this attention, accounts of Galliano’s achievements have been highlighted in the media. Galliano’s design talents were noted at a young age, while he was still a student at Central Saint Martin’s College in London where he graduated with a first class honors degree. His first collection, inspired by the French Revolution, was bought by London boutique, Browns. Shortly after, he was able to start his own label. A few seasons later, he moved to Paris, where his talents were recognized by Anna Wintour and Andre Leon Talley. In 1995 he was appointed as the designer for Givenchy, also part of LVMH, and within two years, he replaced Gianfranco Ferre as the chief designer at Christian Dior. Many have cited his great attention to detail as playing a large factor in his success.

Galliano’s suspension came before he was able to complete work on the Dior Autumn/Winter 2011/2012 Collection. Consequently, the Paris Fashion Week show, held last Friday, was preceded by a formal announcement from Dior Chairman, Sidney Toledano, confirming the termination and apologizing on behalf of the company, for Galliano’s comments. Since the designer was not present, the final walk was taken by the Dior atelier, walking out to a standing ovation from the tearful audience.

Over the past few years, Dior has produced some incredible collections, notably in 2008 and 2009. Dresses that are timelessly chic and reminiscent of Dior’s famous New Look. This last collection could not have been more different. It was a tribute production, characteristically John Galliano, with the first model wearing a long cape and tall boots, looking distinctively like the designer himself. Could Galliano have known this would be his last collection for the label?

While I consider that a possibility, I do not share the view that many seem to have taken that this is the end of the road for him professionally. He has reportedly now checked into a rehabilitation facility in Phoenix, which will hopefully give him the opportunity to address his inner demons. This is exactly where he needs to be right now. Many in the fashion Industry may be fair weather friends, but there are equally as many who I am sure will be there to offer him the strength and encouragement that he so obviously needs.

While emotions are running high, many are speaking as if he has retired or worse, as if he has died. I would not be so quick to write him off. Audiences love a comeback and I have every faith that Galliano is capable of quite the encore.

As he faces trial from both Paris Police and from public opinion, reporters are already speculating as to who will take over as chief designer of Dior. One name being repeatedly mentioned is Riccardo Tisci, the current Creative Director at Givenchy. No doubt, this will be an extremely well considered decision. As it stands, LVMH stock has been strong for the past year and there has not been a noticeable decrease in value over the past week. If anything, stock value is more likely to be affected by the current rising price of oil than a changeover of staff. To put it succinctly, Dior was strong before Galliano and will continue to be, long after Galliano.

Post written by Kirsten Lea & Watch the Video’s Here

Racked‘s “very well-placed” sources, claim:

[T]he magazine’s parent company was unhappy with all the bad press surrounding Roitfeld’s alleged pay-for-play scandals…demanding huge sums of money for extracurricular consulting gigs and the enormous, public embarrassment of being banned from Balenciaga last season for abusing her position at Vogue. In the latter case, Roitfeld allegedly borrowed Balenciaga preview pieces and sent them to her client, Max Mara, to copy…”

Then there’s that other scandal with ANDAM winner Hakaan:

“An angry anonymous letter, which was circulated among French media this week, asked “how a Turkish designer out of nowhere books Natalia Vodianova, Maria Carla Boscono, Lara Stone or Natasha Poly for his show—models asking €15.000 min per show, and who aren’t really famous for their charity!”

Roitfeld also made an unprecedented move by showing up to Hakaan’s first show with Kate Moss in tow. And then there’s that other scandal involving LVMH Chairman and CEO Bernard Arnault, who “allegedly threatened Conde Nast International Chairman Jonathan Newhouse with the removal of all LVMH ads from the next issue of” French Vogue after the last issue (edited by Tom Ford) apparently didn’t contain enough LVMH ad credits and exercised “poor taste” in this editorial.

As for rumors that Carine will be working with Ford on his new womenswear line, Ford recently told the New York Times Cathy Horyn:

“Carine and I have no plans to work together at the moment, and it is nothing that we have even discussed, but of course I think she is brilliant and we are close friends so who knows about the future.”

Well, I guess Heidi Klum‘s been right all along. In fashion one day you’re Anna Wintour and the next, you’re …Carine Roitfeld. It will be interesting to see how this story unfolds, who will succeed Carine (Emmanuelle Alt is apparently not an option) and where Carine lands, besides inevitably on her stilettoed feet.

LINK LOVE: Racked

On his relationship with LVMH chief Bernard Arnault: “I used to say in the beginning that I was like the pig in Babe when the farmer, who was not wildly emotional, expressed himself in a super-warm way. Mr Arnault does not express himself in a super-warm way, but he has softened up — I am that pig and he pats me on the back and says ‘That’ll do pig’, and I just feel this is the highest praise. This is a man who does not throw out compliments or say things to please people — he just does not.”

New York Mag from British Vogue

LINK LOVE: Stay The Night At Hotel LVMH!

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Forbes magazine released their annual list of the world’s richest people yesterday, and LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault did pretty well. He’s ranked at #7, with an estimated net worth of $27.5 billion.

LINK LOVE: Fashionista

RUMOR ALERT! RUMOR ALERT! AND I AIN’T TALKING ABOUT THAT UGLY CHIN WITH THE LAST NAME WILLIS EITHER! There are rumors swirling that Kris Van Assche is getting the boot from Dior Homme after his consistently poor performance over the course of the past couple seasons. Who is he rumored to be replaced by? Well if you’re that slow and haven’t realized that all the buzz is pointing to the Men’s “IT” designer of the year Gareth Pugh, then just stop reading this now and head towards the kitchen for a knife and begin cutting slowly.

Since the hype around Pugh is swirling without any signs of dissipation, Dior Homme is apparently bringing him in for some consulting work, thus resulting in the departure of Van Assche. Word has it that the rumors began when the daughter of LVMH owner Bernard Arnault was spotted front row at the Pugh show. 

It was also said that Pugh’s show this season was his “audition” for the job. If this is the case Van Assche has the same chance of keeping his job as Amy Winehouse does at getting sober.

Could this be the resurrection of Dior Homme? Let’s hope so!

Image courtesy of: The Fashionisto