- Get ready to go back to school and get some class. The Condé Nast College of Fashion & Design is now accepting applications. [Vogue UK]

- Michelle Obama wore Jason Wu — for Target — at an event in Florida over the weekend. And she looks super jazzed about it. [Huff Po]

-  Shit fashion people say at the Theysken’s Theory show. Not a viral video. Just real talk. My personal fave: “The after-party last night. How dare they? Cash bar?” Meanwhile, I don’t even know how they overheard that since I was nowhere near Thesyken’s Theory. [Paper Mag]

- While the CFDA recommends that designers don’t use models under 16, for his fall 2012 Marc Jacobs practically snatched them straight from the womb. [NYT]

- Of course the red carpet at the Grammys is entertaining enough, but add YouTube sensation Sophie Grace and gal Friday Rosie and the show just went H.A.M. [Fashionista]

Congrats on the move! Any news on the progress?

Architects are measuring the space, and we’ll be seeing the first round of designs next week. We’ll decide on the final design by end of the month. It will be built by Spring.

How do you plan on continuing to promote the Garment Center even though you’ve moving away from it?

We have the CFDA Incubator program there in the Garment Center. We have 6 designers graduating this spring, and we’re helping them all to find studio space there. We’re seeding the neighborhood. We’ve got 10 more designers we’re helping find space there. We are also conducting a study with the Made in Midtown Design Trust for Public Space to see how we can use the Garment Center better.

And CFDA prospectives on your horizon? What new designers have you excited this season?

I can’t name any. I like every show, I just like going to the shows. I love the collective energy of talented designers and creative people. Fashion Week is one big giant long runway!

What’s the first thing you’re going to do once the giant runway of Fashion Week has come to a close?

I’m going to my house in Pennsylvania to relax.

And relax you should. You deserve it. Enjoy!

Though only a relative handful of designs were chosen for the exhibit, Impact represents nearly every major American designer of the past 50 years — from Pauline Trigère to Diane von Furstenberg, Halston to Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren to Calvin Klein, Oscar de la Renta to Thom Browne and Donna Karan to Rodarte.

“For someone like me who wasn’t born in America, Impact almost sounds like a 1950s American car,” explained CFDA pres DVF on a walkthrough of the exhibit yesterday. “That’s what America is about. It’s about precise fashion, and not fashion for the sake of fashion. It combines fashion and street, and fashion and life.”

400 active members of the CFDA were asked to choose one look that best represented them or made the most impact on their careers, while museum curators Patricia Mears and Fred Dennis chose for the dearly departed. Work of members whose pieces were not chosen for the installation are displayed in evening vignettes and video projections.

“Not all the CFDA members could be included on the gallery floor,” CFDA CEO Steven Kolb told WWD, “so we created an interactive directory of all members presented on 10 iPad stations throughout the exhibit.”

There’s also a media room where visitors can use iPads to scroll through a timeline of CFDA history and key moments in American fashion. And not ones to be left behind on the social media front, there’s even a hashtag for the Twitter-inclined — #impactcfda.

“We didn’t know what designers would send, so every day felt like birthday with a surprise,” Mears said. “In some cases, we got things that were very clear. When you see the Diane von Furstenberg [wrap] dress, you know it’s hers. When you see the Ralph Lauren [Americana] ensemble, you know it’s Ralph.”

And sometimes, things weren’t so clear. For instance, Marc Jacobs initially wanted a look from his then-controversial but now-iconic 1993 gunge collection for Perry Ellis, but since he didn’t own any of it Anna Sui donated a dress from her private collection.

“For me, the great difficulty with American fashion is that we are so diverse,” Mears continued. “You have the most flamboyant ballgowns and the most wearable and accessible garments. Everything speaks to the product coming out of what I call the American machine — the design machine, the manufacturing machine, the retailing machine, the marketing machine. All of it is part of American fashion over the last 50 years, and I hope that diversity is reflected here.”

Impact: 50 Years of the CFDA will run from February 10 through April 17 and will definitely be a must-see during Fashion Week. [WWD, sub req'd]

- Celebrities are clamoring to spice up their red carpet lives by wearing Victoria Beckham to this year’s Oscars. [Daily Mail]

- Victoria’s Secret Angel Kylie Bisutti apparently took her title too seriously and quit VS because god doesn’t care for that kind of behavior in his heavenly hosts. [Vogue UK]

- Ellen DeGeneres took the moral high road in responding to the One Million Moms group that wanted JC Penney to dump her for being a big ole lez. I, however will continue skipping merrily along on the low road by saying, “Suck on that, trash.” [EW]

- Christian Siriano may have been denied membership to the CFDA, but he’s “fine” with not being “a Wang or a Wu” as long as he has wads of cash to wipe his tears. [NYT]

- Kanye West is showing his sophomore collection on March 6 at 9:30 pm during Paris Fashion Week. Anna Wintour is expected to leave at 9:31. [WWD]

- Hey, Linds, your tit’s out. Oh, nevermind, you’re with Terry Richardson. Carry on. [Terry's Diary]

On Friday, the CFDA signed a 10-year lease on a new 9,310-square-ft office space at 65 Bleecker Street, where it plans to move this summer. Nanette Lepore, a staunch supporter of the Save the Garment Center movement, couldn’t help but express her concern: “We are extremely disappointed by the CFDA’s decision to leave the Garment Center. We only hope this does not signal the end of their previous support for New York City manufacturing and emerging American designers.”

Anthony Lilore, a founding member of Save the Garment Center, was a bit more equivocal: “Symbolically, I do think it is a black eye, but the New York Times is not located in Times Square, Sullivan Street Bakery is not on Sullivan Street and Madison Square Garden is not at Madison Square, so the CFDA should be where the designers are and that could just as easily be L.A. [Ed. note: No it couldn't.] but they are still in New York City. I wish them well in their new home.” Adding,  ”I think that, symbolically, it’s not right, but the industry has changed so much over the past 20 years and even five years that I don’t think it makes a whole lot of difference where they are.”

Citing a need for more space and a lack of prime real estate in the Garment District, CFDA CEO Steven Kolb insisted that his organization would nevertheless remain committed to its old home: “The CFDA is still there and to what extent the other stakeholders are disappointed about the move, our work is going to keep going. We are not abandoning anything. Our commitment stays strong.”

And to put all fears to rest, DVF — ever the angelic voice of reason — swooped in with her two cents: “We needed a very large space so we can have board meetings and clinics there. We found a great space with a great deal, and that’s that. We looked for a long time, and we didn’t find the right opportunity.” Not content to just talk the talk, von Furstenberg is also walking the catwalk by expanding her business in the Garment District with more factory space and sample room.

Because those wrap dresses ain’t gonna wrap themselves. [WWD, sub req'd]

- Apparently yesterday was “Gossip Girl Day” in New York. Which explains why everyone was making half-assed literary references and plotting against everyone in Brooklyn. [Gawker]

- Parisian couturier Jean Luc Amsler dug up Jerry Hall from whatever velvet-lined crypt she’s been sleeping in and paraded her down his catwalk. [Telegraph]

- Céline has opened their first freestanding boutique in New York. So far, no Kanye West sightings. [Racked]

- She. Died. Rachel Zoe dressed up like a vampire for LOVE Magazine. Or maybe someone just caught her without a stitch of makeup. Either way, terrifying/fabulous. [Stylecaster]

- Go behind the scenes of Alexis Bittar‘s new campaign starring the Absolutely Fabulous Edina Monsoon and Patsy Stone, aka the divine Jennifer Saunders and Joanna Lumley.

- Perhaps anticipating a forthcoming lull in her career, Rihanna has signed on to host and produce her first reality show. [Huff Po]

- Diane von Furstenberg still does not care for any jailbait on her goddamn runway, thanks. [The Cut]

- IMG threw it way back to the Renaissance for its show package, featuring star models Joan Smalls, Candice Swanepoel, Jessica Stam, Karolina Kurkova, Lily Donaldson et al photoshopped into classic works of art. [Modelinia]

- Noted wheeler and occasional dealer Pat Sajak claims he’s hosted Wheel of Fortune drunk on many an occasion. In fact, he and Vanna White used to knock back “two or three or six” maggy ritas during lunch. Or what I like to call a Wednesday. [The Hollywood Reporter]

-Here’s a preview of Adriana Lima‘s Super Bowl commercial for Kia. Mid-sized economy cars just got a whole lotta sexy:

While one could argue that the statement — “Twenty years ago the average fashion model weighed 8% less than the average woman. Today she weighs 23% less.” — doesn’t take into account the fact that women 20 years ago probably weighed less than they do now — two decades of fast food will do that to you — one only has to consider who the average fashion model was 20 years ago. Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, Linda Fucking Evangelista…these women were Amazons and Glamazons; healthy, gorgeous and glowing with the energy of life and $10,000 a day paychecks. Then Kate Moss came shuffling in and changed the game. Despite the veracity of the facts, if anything the spread stimulates a debate. And more importantly, it offers images of a beautiful woman who is not only clearly proud of her voluptuous body, but also pretty damned flexible to boot. [Buzzfeed]

The face of victory, Mario Boselli

New York and the CFDA has agreed to not push back the dates of New York Fashion Week in accordance with the “Second Thursday rule” so as not to interfere with Milan’s show dates. The CFDA’s chief executive officer Steven Kolb graciously and begrudgingly admitted defeat at the hands of noted shit-talker Mario Boselli of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana in a statement today:

“We’ve been back and forth on this. People are anxious and need to know the dates. There’s no value for the cities to compete. In the spirit of working together, London and New York are in agreement that we will go in the earlier period, but with the hope that the four cities will come out of this confusion and work together to plan future show weeks. We need to begin to look at the fashion season not as individual fashion weeks, but very much as a global business.”

Well, at least it’s over and no lives were lost. But it being a fashion war, expect some scathing reviews flooding in from the upcoming fall 2012 runway shows in Milan and Paris because shade is the only real weapon of combat. As for next year, New York will show from September 6 thru 13, London from September 14 thru 18, Milan from September 19 thru 25 and Paris from September 26 thru October 3. [WWD]

- With New York Fashion Week only a month away — cue panic attack — the CFDA wants to make sure you’re not freebasing Sugarfree Red Bulls and replacing the sugar in your coffee with cocaine by hosting a panel dedicated to living healthy. If I wanted to live healthy during fashion week I’d just sleep through it. [The Cut]

- Time to tune into TRL and vote for your favorite videos of the day! Oh, wait, it’s not 1998. But it certainly feels like it now that 90s R&B divas Brandy and Monica are reuniting to sing-argue who the boy really belongs to for their new duet, “Turn the Lights On.” I just hope the video involves a split-screen and a tube-top turtleneck. [Buzzfeed]

- Kim Kardashian wished Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge née Kate Middleton a happy birthday the only way she knew how: with a convenient product placement. Meanwhile, if the Duchess is ever caught dead in a Shoedazzle heel, all the style points she earned with that McQueen wedding gown will go right out the window. [Huff Po]

-  Models just can’t keep it in their pants these days. Molly Sims is the latest catwalker to get knocked up. [Modelinia]

- Barbie may be making some questionable choices as of late, but the pint-sized fashion plate has never looked so badass, thanks to these amazing printable hair extensions. Now if they just came out with these in human size. [Refinery29]

- PETA strikes again. The most annoying people in the world have now taken issue with Oscar de la Renta’s Beats by Dre headphones, imploring beatsmith Dr. Dre to use his “tremendous amount of influence on young people…to advocate kindness toward animals by pledging never to design with real fur and exotic skins.” The good doctor, unsurprisingly, has not responded. [Huff Po]

- In the age of viral this and social media that, why let something as petty as death interfere with your internet life? Now you don’t have to, thanks to a new app that ensures your last words will be disseminated to all your Facebook friends, in the event of your untimely passing. But more importantly, can you poke some one from beyond… [Refinery29]

-Anna Wintour‘s biannual HJ to the industry, Fashion’s Night Out, will make an uncalled-for return next year to once again haunt the sartorial streets. [WWD]

-  Jonathan Saunders, Mary Katrantzou, Marios Schwab and Nicholas Kirkwood are among the finalists for next year’s British Fashion Council/Vogue Fashion Fund. [Vogue UK]

- Michael Kors IPO is listed at $20/share, which will probably be the least you’ll ever pay for a Michael Kors anything from here on out. [WWD]

- The First Family posed for a new family portrait and while it’s all cute and familial, we can clearly see Michelle‘s roots and homegirl could use a touch-up. [Just Jared]

- Vera Wang is getting in touch with her inner dude by outfitting some real dudes. While brides will wear her doomed David’s Bridal gowns to their weddings, their grooms will wear her new Men’s Warehouse tuxedos. And then everyone will go to the Olive Garden and cap the night off with a few PBRs. [WWD]

- While Vera slums it in the discount wholesale bin, Levi’s is classing their game up. The jeans giant will show at New York Fashion Week for the first time come February. Hopefully the CFDA will have cut whatever day said show is by then. [WWD]

Didier Grumbach / Photo: The Crowd Blog

“I don’t understand why Paris completely and totally just ignored what all of us have worked so hard on,” DVF said. “I am speechless. I just e-mailed [Chambre Syndicale president Didier Grumbach] and said that I was completely in shock.”

Grumbach, for his part, plans on sending a letter explaining his position to von Furstenberg, but for the Chambre, the decision came down to a matter of deadlines. “It was perfectly open and clear and very obvious that our members could not accept this…” Grumbach explained, referring to the previous back and forth between everyone.

“We fall at the end of the calendar, ” he continued. “All of the member houses agreed that this would make them very late in taking orders, which in turn would be penalizing for deliveries. It’s an industrial reason: you are a manufacturer, you need your orders early…Who wants to be penalized? It doesn’t make sense. We have had lots of meetings about pushing Paris show dates earlier as many brands really want that.”

In a board meeting presided over by Hermès deputy managing director Guillaume de Seynes, members voted unanimously to keep  their show dates, thus flying in the face of the proposed second Thursday rule.  For 2013, Paris will show from February 26 (a Tuesday) to March 6 and then from September 24 (also a Tuesday) to October 2; the dates for 2014 are (Tuesday) February 25  to March 5 and (Tuesday) September 23 to October 1.

And in a case of that playground staple monkey see-monkey do, Milan’s Camera Nazionale della Moda president Mario Boselli proclaimed: “We were going to move if Paris was also moving. As Paris is not moving, we won’t either.” He then stuck out his tongue, stole the CFDA’s lunch money and pushed London’s British Fashion Council off the swings.

So what does this all mean? Well, according to Boselli, in order to avoid any show schedule overlap New York and the CFDA are going to have to swallow their pride: “Perhaps the only way out would be for the Americans to reduce their fashion week to seven days, as nine days is too long, and start a couple of days after Labor Day.”

Now that Paris won’t change its schedule, neither will Milan, leaving London and New York on the other side of the aisle — and I wouldn’t be surprised if one side casually slipped out a stilettoed heel to “accidentally” trip the other on the march towards compromise. [WWD]

So this whole shebang is getting all kinds of complicated so here’s a quick run-down:

New York, London, Milan and Paris had agreed — at least in the minds of New York and London — to always and forever start the fashion show calendar on the second Thursday of February and September way back in 2008. Milan and Paris claimed they had agreed to no such thing.

In accordance with this — the “second Thursday rule” — NYFW would start on September 13, thus moving everyone else back one week. Milan said, “Not cool, bro” and threatened to decide its own dates and Condé Nast threatened a boycott by all Vogue editors.

Milan said “Screw you guys, bring it on,” by deciding to keep their original dates, September 19-25, thus conflicting with both New York and London, prompting DVF to ask, “Can’t we all just get along?”

Then New York said, “Fine, you win” and offered to move the dates of the September 2012 shows, to Septembr 6 (the first Thursday) through September 13.

Milan said, “Damn right we win,” then decided to throw its weight around by stipulating that New York had to cut out the September 13 date to accommodate London’s men’s collections. And New York said, “Fuggedaboutit.”

Which more or less brings us up to speed. So the CFDA is waiting to hear if the Camera Nazionale accepts this latest development. As for the second Thursday rule, the CFDA proposed revisiting it after three years and meeting with the Camera in 2013 to discuss the 2014 show dates.

Still confused? Don’t blame you. Which is why they should just settle this with a good old-fashioned walk-off like civilized people. [WWD]

The troops storm the runway

The Camera will agree to start the fashion week calendar on the second Thursday of September, beginning in 2013, but only if: a.) New York cuts the last day of its fashion week so as to give London an extra day for their men’s wear collections, and b.) Paris agrees to the schedule.

Paris Fashion Week, in a prime example of saving the best for last, always follows Milan Fashion Week – but by adhering to the second Thursday rule the dates of the former will be pushed even later, to the beginning of October. Meanwhile, Didier Grumbach, the president of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, said on Wednesday that “nothing has changed for 2012″ for Paris and that the Chambre will meet in December to discuss PFW’s 2013 and 2014 show dates.

So it seems the final decision lays with Paris as Milan is ready to walk away from the table if their conditions aren’t met. Diane von Furstenberg, Steven Kolb and the rest of the CFDA are currently considering Milan’s plan, giving hope that maybe everyone can get this whole shebang sorted out before New Year’s.

And if that fails, DVF is not above boarding a tank and blowing the heel right off that boot-shaped country. [WWD]

Through the concrete and brick columned hall of the CFDA Incubator, past glass doors with names like Bibhu Mohapatra, House of Waris and Prabal Gurung etched upon them, sits a room on the end that houses the studio of a French expat with a beautiful concept. Alice Ritter works seemingly solitary in a tidy, brightly lit room with a towering cubic bookshelf, a sewing machine and inspiration all around. Her style rings from the authenticity of growing up in the late 70s in France, where Yves Saint Laurent was god and high power glossies were sacred. Having studied economics, she created a fashion lab within her home with her Brooklynite husband to pursue her true art of design. Poring over books and dissecting vintage clothing lead to her creating an aesthetic that is uniquely hers. 

What are your three fashion books you recommend to an aspiring fashion designer?

Oh! This Madeleine Vionnet book I’ve had for a long time, I know it by heart.  Madeleine Vionnet is such an inspiration. It was just so modern what she did, and she invented a new way to drape fabric and to drape the woman’s body. She not as famous as Gabrielle Chanel or Christian Dior. I mean she’s famous amongst fashion people and she’s more influential for me.

This Balenciaga book is beautiful not just because I’m fascinated with Balenciaga, but the book its self is just a beautiful object, the way its printed, paper. Its really good. He was very forward thinking  He was like a sculptor almost.

Fashion Design 1850-1895 is a good one. It’s a classic. It’s a very well curated collection of clothes, and their details. It’s an endless source of inspiration. And a really good way to learn about costume and this sort of fashion.

To read the rest of the interview, click on over to LOOKBOOKS.com!

The CFDA has agreed to move New York Fashion Week back one week next September to accommodate Milan, but the catch is that Milan and Paris have to agree to abide by the second-Thursday rule from here on out. If Milan accepts the proposal, New York Fashion Week will be held from September 6 to 13 and London Fashion Week would run from September 14 to 18.

Boselli will have a meeting with the Camera on November 30 to discuss the matter. [WWD]

The Fashion Fund, created by the CFDA and Vogue to aid young and emerging designers, includes a mentorship program and a cash prize. Altuzarra took home $300,000 while runners-up Pamela Love of Pamela Love Jewelry and Shane Gabier and Chris Peters of Creatures of the Wind walked away with $100,000 each.

Those that went home empty-handed were Suno’s Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis; Carlos Campos; Antonio Azzuolo of A.A. Antonio Azzuolo; Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs of Cushnie et Ochs; Ohne Titel’s Alexa Adams and Flora Gill; Fenton/Fallon’s Dana Lorenz, and Soraya Silchenstedt of Finn Jewelry.

This year’s selection committee included Vogue’s editrix-in-chic Anna Wintour, CFDA prez Diane von Furstenberg and CEO Steven Kolb, Theory‘s Andrew Rosen, Coach‘s Reed Krakoff, J. Crew‘s Jenna Lyons, and past Fund winners — Proenza Schouler‘s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez. [WWD]

Karachi Fashion Week

One must also consider the undeniable impact of the internet and blogs, bringing the latest and greatest in fashion to anyone with a decent internet connection. Now a teenager in Ohio can gasp at the fantastical creations from Beijing Fashion Week as a blogger in Thailand livestreams the latest Marc Jacobs runway show. But with this democratization of the fashion industry comes its inevitable oversaturation. “Every other city is doing a fashion week. I think there can be only one market in the U.S., and that’s New York,” Kolb opines. So fashion weeks in Moscow, Karachi, Berlin, Zurich, Huston, Dubai, Portland, Rochester, Islamabad and Tel Aviv won’t garner the kind of respect or attention paid to London and Paris; clothes from its runways won’t land in Elle or W – nor might they ever be worn outside of their respective countries. However, Glenda Bailey’s or Anna Wintour‘s is not the only eye foreign designers hope to capture.

For participants in Islamabad Fashion Week, fashion is a new form of expression that further immerses them in the global culture of the 21st century. When filming Fashion Week Internationale for Vice.com, hostess Charlet Duboc was surprised at the presence of women in full Burkas volunteering backstage:  “I couldn’t quite believe it. How does that work? How can you look at that and admire it and yet know you can’t wear it? But they were there, they were appreciating it and it didn’t feel like there was a divide. Like, ‘You do your thing, I do my thing’ and everyone got along.” Fashion transcends more than just clothing to become a force for cultural change. And a force for economic change. Speaking with the Wall Street Journal, Zurain Imam observed,  ”Fashion in Pakistan for a long time has been an entertainment sport; at [Karachi Fashion Week], we are trying to really make it about the business of fashion.”

While Kolb concedes that smaller fashion weeks can be good training ground for prospective designers, some bigger names are flocking abroad to show their collections. There probably is no hotter designer in America than Singapore-born, Nepalese-raised Prabal Gurung, whose last two presentations at New York Fashion Week met with near universal acclaim. Even he is considering showing his wares abroad in Moscow, Turkey, London and his native Singapore, saying, “There are so many emerging markets that we want to in some way be a part of, and I would love to showcase my collection in a more global way.” With a crowded and contentious calendar, Glenda Bailey won’t likely end up in Richmond, VA, but who’s to say that she won’t be stomping through a Singaporean jungle for the latest in spring ready-to-wear?

Photo: Terry Richardson...duh

I would’ve thought that Marc was already on the board, if not president Diane von Furstenbrerg‘s girl Friday, but mazel to the kids, who were nominated by the board of directors way back in July. They’ll be joining the ranks of 26 designers, including Oscar de la Renta, Narciso Rodriguez, Tory Burch, Calvin Klein’s Francisco Costa and Norma Kamali. Meanwhile, Nicole Miller, John Bartlett and Richard Lambertson are leaving the board of directors to join the Emeritus board. [WWD]

For more information on The Fund, visit Vogue.com.

Photo: Richard Guaty

“We proved that there was no agreement with the Council of Fashion Designers of America and the British Fashion Council regarding the three years 2012-2013-2014, and that, in any case, the postponement of a week for the dates of September 2012 was not on the table,” said Boselli.

Fashion week in Milan next year, Sept. 19th-25th, will directly conflict with New York and London —  Sept. 13th-20th and Sept. 21st-25th, respectively. With more than a bit of spite, Milan blames the CFDA for moving NYFW a week later than in previous years and if they were to follow suit, Italian designers wouldn’t be able to satisfy production needs.

Boselli also finds accusations that the Italians are not honoring its commitments as “an aggressive and arrogant stance towards the CNMI” since they had set their 2012 dates in March of last year.

DVF, in an open letter to the fashion community, reasserts the CFDA’s stance on the “Second Thursday” rule:

Editors, retailers and designers  like the consistency of every designer always showing on the same day of the week season after season. It makes it so much easier for everyone to plan and attend shows…We did not change from the agreement we reached of starting Fashion Season in New York on the same day every year…I also believe this conflict is a misunderstanding. I am convinced it will be resolved and that the agreement that was made 3 years ago at great cost and effort is valid and will be kept.

President of France’s Chambre Syndicale, Didier Grumbach, also thinks that this is all just one big misunderstanding, though he agrees with Boselli that the rule was only temporary: “We always said that it is impossible to plan anything beyond three years as you never know what kind of events might come up…The idea was always that we would meet up again once the three-year time period was up.”

If all this back and forth between everyone is confusing, matters got a whole lot messier when the CFDA and the BFC sent letters to Italian designers asking to help Boselli and Grumbach “stick to this agreement and maintain the current flow of dates.” Those designers, for their part, wholeheartedly support the CNMI.

For now, it looks like no one is backing down though von Furstenberg is still holding out hope for a compromise. [WWD, WWD -- sub req'd]

Photo: Trendland

Italian designers are forming a united front to decide on their own dates, out of the three following options: 1.) move to July; 2.) show before New York in September; or 3.) leave things the way they are, which could mean an overlap between Milan and London.

Condé Nast, for its part, is not having any of this. In a letter to Mario Boselli, head of the Italian Chamber of Fashion ”obtained”  – *cough* stolen *cough*– by WWD, CEO Jonathan Newhouse writes that Vogue editors “like the schedule the way it is presently organized. We at Condé Nast do not want the schedule to be changed. We very much oppose moving the Milan shows earlier so that they overlap or conflict with the London fashion shows — or with the New York fashion shows or those of any market.”

Newhouse then goes on to basically threaten a boycott by all Vogue editors — American, British, French and Italian — of Milan shows, stating matter-of-factly that “they will not under any circumstances abandon the London or New York shows if the Milan shows are moved earlier.”

The root of the conflict stems from a pact in 2008 when all four cities agreed to kick-off the fashion weeks on the second Thursday of February and September. Boselli claims that the agreement was only for three years while the CFDA‘s Steven Kolb and the British Fashion Council‘s Caroline Rush contend that it was indeed a permanent arrangement.

As for the fromage standing alone, Paris is expected to side with Milan. However, Didier Grumbach, head of the Chambre Syndicale, would rather come to a compromise and wants everyone to just chill the eff out: “When planning our schedules we have to factor in the time constraints of houses such as Jean Paul Gaultier or Givenchy that deliver couture, men’s and women’s shows with one designer. In any case, these things can’t be improvised. We have our locations. To move dates on venues like the Grand Palais cannot be improvised. Those dates are decided months and months in advance. If [anyone wants to] move dates for 2013, why not, we have the time to talk about it, to arrange it.”

Frankly, it’s a little odd that London is siding with New York considering the hubbub over model castings earlier this season, with London designers blaming New York for hogging all the best girls and the general feeling that LFW was being squeezed out. Now it seems Milan is feeling the crunch and are going to have to come to a decision soon or face the wrath of Wintour. [WWD, sub req'd]

Sherry Lehmann Wine.  Arizona Iced Tea. Fiber One. No, these aren’t the contents of your grandmother’s kitchen cabinet. These are three of the big-name sponsors for New York’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, the biggest and least important of the four major Fashion Weeks. But is New York’s continued dwindling in importance a direct result of the less than fabulous coterie of sponsors, or is it the other way around? And who’s to blame?

The Hardy Gays are on the case!

The main culprit is Milk Studios, whose latest incarnation as MilkMade has stolen much of the luster from Lincoln Center. But whereas they compete for sponsors, MilkMade usually draws smaller shows…however, the Marc Jacobses and the Ralph Laurens don’t show at the Tents either. Rather, they show offsite, effectively spitting in the faces of IMG Models and CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg, who dutifully shows at Lincoln Center each season.

Why not show a concerted effort to make NYFW a juggernaut of influence and taste rather than a discombobulated hydra sprawling all over Manhattan with each head unaware of what the other is doing?

The Tents at Bryant Park were home to New York Fashion Week for seventeen years and the move to Lincoln Center was a controversial one that left many fashion followers scratching their thinning scalps. Aside from being convenient, Bryant Park’s proximity to the Garment District earned it the distinction as the fashion industry’s backyard. But as Fashion Week grew bigger and more and more sponsors came on board — from Dunkin Donuts to McDonald’s — designers became more and more disenfranchised. And Bryant Park became more and more annoyed. Now, the Tents at Lincoln Center resemble a circus rather than a legitimate gathering of professionals and creatives.

Which brings us to Fern Mallis, the lady behind those seventeen halcyon years. She helped organize the move of NYFW from warehouses and studios all over the city to one central location, but with the Tents’ dissolution everything is scattered once again. Just last year Mallis evacuated her role as Senior Vice President of IMG to reportedly start her own consulting business. Interesting timing…

Perhaps she felt disillusioned over what she hath wrought. Perhaps she struck a deal with Bryant Park to kick fashion week out of its lush lawn. Perhaps she poisoned  major designers against her former lover, one Diane von Furstenberg to gain revenge for breaking her heart when she married Barry Diller, effectively ruining Fashion Week and leaving Fiber One as one of the few legitimate sponsors who would touch MBFW with a ten-foot pole!

Cue lightning flash and dramatic music.

Perhaps this is just speculation and hearsay. Perhaps we don’t really care because as far as Mac and I — and the bottle of vodka we’ve already opened to celebrate — Absence of Mallis: The Case of the Lackluster Tents is closed.

Amanda‘s Bag, Rebecca Minkoff Morning After Bag

1. Tilly & William Armer

2. House keys/coke spoons

3. Wallet

4. Makeup bag with assorted contents: MAKE UP FOR EVER Duo Mat Powder Foundation, Clinique Line Smoothing Concealer, Benefit Cosmetics The POREfessional, Benefit Cosmetics Play Stick, Lancôme Le Crayon Khol Eyeliner, Dolce & Gabbana Lip Gloss, Benefit Cosmetics Big Beautiful Eyes, Smith’s Rosebud Salve, Shiseido Shimmering Rouge

5. Rebecca Minkoff Morning After Bag

6. Business card for Time Will Tell Watches

7. Other assorted business cards

8. M.Patmos cheat sheet

9. Norma Kamali 3D glasses and lookbook

10. Front row seat card for Anne Bowen

11. Sunglasses

12. KAUFMANFRANCO lookbook

13. Broken POS Apple Earphones

14. Hugo Naturals French Lavender Hand Sanitizer

15. Sephora makeup brushes

16. FashionIndie Mixtape Vol. 4

17. Hand creme from some gift bag

18. FashionIndie stickers

19. iPhone 4

20. Piazza Sempione tote

21. Macbook

22. Go green wireless phone charger

23. Concept Korea lookbook

24. Lemon-Lime Emergen-C

Marcus Wainwright, Gautum Dutta, David Neville, and Steven Kolb

The limited edition tees are $85 a pop and are sold through starbucksstore.com and select Nordstrom stores. Though the designers were given a fee to participate, according to CFDA executive director, Steven Kolb, the project gave them the chance “to give back a little bit which is in keeping with the spirit of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund.”

Not really sure to whom they’re giving back nor am I sure that the spirit of the Fashion Fund is about selling out hardcore, but for $85 I guess you can have your coffee and wear it too. [WWD]

The CFDA celebrates its half centennial next year and is launching its “Stars of American Fashion” endowment drive. In an effort to raise $2.5 million, the CFDA is selling 50 stars at $50,000 a pop to designers, who will then personalize their star before it ends up on a special American flag.

28 designers have bought stars so far, including Tom Ford, Diane von Furstenberg, Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren, Carolina Herrera, Tommy Hilfiger, Oscar de la Renta and Vera Wang. [WWD]

Color Palette: From lead gray up through checked  heathers and worked nudes, down to to morning and evening rose.

Mood: A paratrooper has adventured to the edge, and in the end, it’s all coming up roses.

Statement Pieces: Windbreaking suits. Rose prints.

Front Row Name Drops: Steven Kolb, President of the CFDA.

Gossip: In a terribly sad turn of events, the Duckie designer Steven Cox’s mother just passed away this past week. It made for quite the emotional backstage well wishes.

Runway Music: “Work It” as written by Missy Elliot, and performed by some guy.

The escalation of Duckie Brown:

Started here:

Progressed here:

Ended here:

And it felt like this WWII paratrooper started here:

Went here:

And ended up living in a place like this, knowing the fruits of beautiful adventure come not without thorns.

- Karl Lagerfeld, clearly bored with the 3,000 other projects he’s juggling, is now designing glassware. [Architectural Digest]

- Victoria’s Secret angels Miranda Kerr, Adriana Lima, Chanel Iman and Doutzen Kroes open up on the cover of Elle magazine. [Fashion Gone Rogue]

- Tommy Hilfiger and the CFDA are sending 10 designers, including Prabal Gurung, Sophie Theallet, Billy Reid and Eddie Borgo to Paris to show their collections. [The Cut]

- Kanye West may or may not be joining those 10 lucky designers in the City of Lights come Paris Fashion Week. [Fashionista]

- I was fully on board for Missoni‘s Target diffusion line until they debuted this beyond creepy 25-foot “blogger.” [Styleite]

This comes on the spiked heels of last Fashion Week when it was came to light that DVF herself had used 15-year-old model Haley Clauson in her runway show. But fool DVF once, shame on you; fool her twice and you’re getting your underage ass carded at the door.

“The casting agents for the Diane von Furstenberg show will be doing this and we encourage others to do the same,” read the letter. All top model agencies have agreed not to send girls under 16 for the shows, while catwalkers Sara Ziff (Marilyn) and Lily Aldridge (IMG) will give up-and-coming girls from their respective agencies a good talking-to on Thursday as part of the CFDA Ambassador Program.

Well, you gotta respect the CFDA for trying, but I don’t see what the big deal is if a model is 15 or 16 or 82. If homegirl can walk down a runway in a 6-in heel and sell the garment, let her work! She probably has a starving village in some third world country — or New Jersey — to provide for. [WWD]

Doug and Ben Burkman, the Burkman Bros

According to Bibu Mohapatra, who was part of the first Fashion Incubator class: “The program has helped me grow my business. The industry mentors are helping me tackle the affairs of a rapidly growing business, whether on production issues, collaborations, licensing or legal matters.”

The second season begins in May when the class of 2012-2014 moves into their Fashion Incubator studios at 209 West 38th Street. Designers will receive mentoring from industry professionals in addition to real estate space at below market value and for the first time the CFDA is partnering with New York University‘s Stern School of Business.

Through Stern Consulting Corps, designers will be matched up with MBA students who will help them “develop full financial statements, cash flow projections and investor-ready business plans.”

The lucky group of Incubatees are:

Antonio Azzuolo
Arielle Shapiro of Ari Dein
Benjamin and Doug Burkman of Burkman Brothers
Christian Coda
Emanuela Duca
Ricky Hendry and Marc Daniels of Isaora
Luis M. Fernandez of Number:Lab
Reece Solomon of Reece Hudson
Maayan Zilberman and Nikki Dekker of The Lake & Stars
Timo Weiland and Alan Eckstein of Timo Weiland [WWD]

Botkier knows better than to let this slide. The brand wrote on its blog: “We just discovered how our Botkier ‘Clyde’ was simply copied by Kardashian Kollection for Sears. They say imitation is the highest form of flattery but we don’t think so…”

They are also seeking help from the CFDA, who recently launched the You Can’t Fake Fashion campaign. It’s true, the only real difference between these bags is the Botkier (left) is chic and the Kardashian Kollection knockoff (right) is ugly as shi*t. Do you think imitation is the highest form of flattery or is this similarity just plain wrong?

LINK LOVE: Fashionista

PRABAL GURUNG

The color blocking intricacies and power shapes make me ever kick myself for missing his debut in The Tents for Fall 2010. But it was his ability to unravel that structure for this season that makes me even more excited for what’s next.

Fall 2010

A Brief History of Gurung: After studying fashion and working in production and design India, he designed under the tutelage of Manish Arora and Cynthia Rowley. He then left his position as Design Director for Bill Blass to start his own label, which launched in February 2009.

The Tents Trailer from Marcus K Jones on Vimeo.

Let us remember a time when 7th was on 6th, when Betsey Johnson could roll her rolling racks down the block, skipping and singing to her show. When fashion made a spectacle for commoners to notice in the middle of a “public park”, when there was more than the 1 2 3 to get you there. When NYFW got classy, got prestige, got monetized, then outgrown.

A small recap of the film by James Belzer, formerly of Harper’s Bazaar, before you see it this Fashion Week at its true premiere:

First, a giant congratulations to Steven Kolb on becoming the newly minted CEO of the CFDA after five years of executive directing. As President Diane Von Furstenberg told WWD,  “Steven is a CEO. This title is long deserved. Steven is the best.…He is smart, sensitive to talent and works very, very hard. We started together at CFDA, and I cannot imagine CFDA without him.” I was lucky enough to speak with him briefly last night, and as promised, sent him my recap of the movie. Which I’ll certainly have to re-watch…

Anna Wintour and her flock of the fabulous have meticulously the selected 10 designers (and design duos) in the running for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award. Last year, Billy Reid took the top prize of $300,000, a year of mentorship and a bronze trophy. The two runners-up Prabal Gurung and Eddie Borgo each took home $100,000 and a year of mentoring. This year, the judges are Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough of Proenza Schouler (who join the committee for the first time this year), Mark Holgate of Vogue, Jeffrey Kalinsky of Jeffrey and Nordstrom, Steven Kolb of the CFDA, Reed Krakoff of Coach, Jenna Lyons of J.Crew, Andrew Rosen of Theory, Diane von Furstenberg of the CFDA, and of course the Queen herself, Anna Wintour of Vogue.

See all the of nominees here:

A. A., Antonio Azzuolo

One-of-a-kind totes customized by CFDA designers including Diane Von Furstenberg, Badgley Mischka, Jason Wu, Marchesa, and Botkier may have sold out, but you can still snag the standard tote for a mere $35. Check out the YOU CAN’T FAKE FASHION page in eBay’s Fashion Vault to purchase the bag above and see what you missed.

Kate, it seems, is taking a page out of the Michelle Obama playbook by adhering to the rules of wardrobe diplomacy —  the practice, as The Financial Times‘ Vanessa Friedman explains it, “of a national leader (or leading representative) wearing clothes from the country they are visiting as a form of economic and cultural outreach.”

For her tour of Africa this week, the Fierce Lady has mixed and matched her Narciso Rodriguez and J. Crew staples with Nigerian-born designer Duro Olowu.

Meanwhile, DVF is a logical choice for Kate. Not only an iconic designer and president of the CFDA, the DVF wrap dress is the prototype for those damn Issa and Reiss dresses Kate can’t seem to get enough of.

I can’t wait to see what else Kate wears — especially since she’s picking out her own wardrobe like the down-to-earth princess she is. Personally I’m pulling for some other all-American designers  to cover that emaciated royal back of hers. Imagine, Princess Katherine in Alex Wang?  [Financial Times]

Menswear wasn’t always in the cards for Wang. His T by Alexander Wang line started off  as a “vanity project.” He claims he “just wanted to do stuff [he] wanted to wear.” But after GQ named him Best New Menswear Designer in America and he was nominated for the CFDA’s Swarovski Menswear Design Award, he got the message:

“That was like, ‘Whoa.’ You know, awards are great, but they put you on fast track — you have to do this, you have to do that. Now we can breathe and go back to focusing on this new line.”

This new line will have, according to Wang, “a more refined point of view” with slicker fabrics, sleeker lines and “less flashy” embellishments. And that translates to a less sexually-charged aesthetic than his womenswear: “[M]y guy isn’t about exposing his chest. It’s not the male gigolo.”

Capt. Jack Sparrow probably wouldn’t approve. [WWD]

Check out Alexander Wang’s Spring 2012 Mens Ready to Wear lookbook below:

These limited edition ladies, clad in little black dresses designed by CFDA-endorsed talents, are the perfect gifts for the young and young at heart.

And if you love the dresses they’re wearing, don’t miss the adult versions on Gilt Women. For more information, check out gilt.com.

“For me, traveling is a regular thing, but always a privilege and an extraordinary experience,” Furstenberg says. This mentality is what makes American Fashion Travel so down to earth. From the shores of Montauk to Bondi Beach or snow-covered mountains of Colorado or Switzerland, no destination is too big or small to make an impact on someone’s life. When flipping through the colorful pages and reading handwritten answers by CFDA designers, you’ll discover places you too have been and destinations foreign to you. Some prefer cars and others planes. The ideal vacation could include the spa or a hike to the top of a volcano. But when reading this book, you must remember that surprises are the best part of traveling.

“With every trip comes the unexpected, and that becomes part of your experience when you travel,’ Furstenberg says. “You have to be very open and spontaneous and ready to change your plans.”

Here are a few of our favorite travel memoirs from the book:

What owning this book says about you: I love to travel but live vicariously through others when I can’t make it out of town.

What your dinner guests will say upon seeing this book on your coffee table: What a colorful book. I want to go everywhere!

How this book will make your fashion brain grow: Learning where designers gather inspiration from around the world will help you better understand the creative process and how they translate experience into fashion. Plus, you will for sure be inspired to travel and gain your own worldliness and insight.

If you like this, you’ll love: 1000 Places to See Before You Die: A Traveler’s Life List by Patricia Schultz

Sofia Coppola will present good friend and longtime fag to her hag, Marc Jacobs with the Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award, amidst a roar of boos. Somehow Jessica Alba scored an invite and will hand over the Founders Award to Hal Rubenstein and sexy septuagenarian Grace Coddington will hurl the Board of Directors’ Special Tribute Award to an unsuspecting Arthur Elgort. Karolina Kurkova, not to be outdone, will present the three Swarovski Awards.

Meanwhile, Patrick Ervell dug up Kirsten Dunst for his date, Micahel Kors will be chaperoned by Ashley Greene and Calvin Klein‘s Francisco Costa by noted actress Kerry Washington. Liv Tyler forsake frequent gal-date Stella McCartney for the humpy Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler and last but not least, Chlöe Sevigny will stumble into the ceremony with MAC Cosmetics.

This should make the FiFis look…well, like the FiFis. [WWD]

Twriling : NYT

- Got Klum? Heidi lands her third “Got Milk?” campaign. Little known fact: one of those three times, that wasn’t milk on her face. [Modelina]

- Rumor has it rapper/budding fashionista Kanye West has moved to Paris to work on his own high-end fashion line. He’s befriended Central Saint Martins‘ professor Louise Wilson in the process and will present new BFF Céline‘s Phoebe Philo an award at the CFDAs. The most surprising facet of these rumors is that anyone would let Kanye near any awards show. [Daily Telegraph]

- Alleged magazine FHM issued a half-ass apology to Andrej Pejic after referring to him as “it” and a “thing.” Note, “it” was not followed by “girl” and “thing” not preceded by “Miss.” [Styleite]

- Hedi Slimane‘s fashion diary features images from Yves Saint Laurent‘s final runway show from 2002, including stunning candids of Naomi Campbell and Jerry Hall. [Hedi Slimane]

- Karl Lagerfeld kind of openly hates everyone, especially “lazy pig” biographers who would dare relate his life story. [Elle]

Black and gold, the humpback fringe running down the heel and tongue gives the shoe slightly odd dimensions. Iris van Herpen X United Nude – Synesthesia

These will definitely get some “Heyyy Lady Gaga!”s on the street. I know because I have them in a woven mustard. The curved heel and giant platform reel in the eyes and are pretty great to walk in. Jeffrey Campbell – Lana

These were obviously inspired by Mother Monster. Covered toe to toe in in jewels and studs, these shoes would Gaga-ify your look. And judging by the name of the brand, they established themselves after the Lady herself.  Haus of Price – Mega Bootie

You’ll need a distance Gaga shoe, and that’s where the flatform comes in. Gaga FORBID you wear actual flats. Gross. These floral flatforms are just kooky enough to make a little monster throw a paw up. Ego and Greed – Two Hundred

And the nominations go to:

For Womenswear Designer of the Year: Alexander Wang, Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez for Proenza Schouler, Marc Jacobs

For Menswear Designer of the Year: Michael Bastian, Patrik Ervell, Simon Spurr

For Accessories Designer of the Year: Alexander Wang, Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez for Proenza Schouler, Reed Krakoff

A number of designers have also been nominated for the Swarovski Awards:

For Womenswear Designer of the Year: Joseph Altuzarra, Ashley Olsen & Mary-Kate Olsen, Prabal Gurung

For Menswear Designer of the Year: Alexander Wang, Phillip Lim, Robert Geller

For Accessories Designer of the Year: Alejandro Ingelmo, Eddie Borgo, Jason Wu, Pamela Love

The Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award, named for the four-time CFDA Fashion Award winner, will be presented to Marc Jacobs.

The CFDA Board of Directors chose to present their Special Tribute on Arthur Elgort in honor of his impact on photography and fashion.

The Fashion Icon Award will go to Lady Gaga for being a fashion revolutionary impacting style today.

“We look forward to once again honoring the best and brightest talent working today,” Steven Kolb, CFDA executive director said. “Winning a CFDA Fashion Award is the highest and one of the most coveted honors one can receive in our industry.”

Who do you think will win each of these extremely prestigious fashion awards? Who are your picks for the best?