Naturally, Style.com will tweet, Instagram and Tumblr the shizz out of the event, but the show itself will feature the site’s own Tim Blanks manning the red carpet as well as interviews and other Web exclusives. Steven Kolb, the CFDA’s CEO, noted that the broadcast would broaden the awards’ and the organization’s audience beyond just fashion folk.

Let’s all hope for a bloated, overlong TV broadcast hosted by an uncomfortable comedian next year! [WWD]

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Remade exactly to spec, pristine as the originals, these are available at Prada’s NY locations (Broadway, 5th Ave, and Madison). Check which ones Prada picked, and how deep into your vault you’ll have to dive to make them yours.

1991 - Rich satin bag

Fall/Winter 03 - Printed canvas and leather small clutch bag

Fall/Winter '05 - Brushed calf leather frame bag with embossed Prada logo

The rest of the bags range from $1,495-$2,895, from the years 2000, 2003 and 2005. That's how Prada plays favorites.

Lagerfeld, left, and Saint Laurent, center

Way before the advent of the Project Runways (and its alleged All-Stars), the The Fashion Shows and the Fashion Stars, there was one illustrious design competition that actually set out to do what those shows only dream of doing: producing a design superstar. In 1955, the Australian Wool Industry‘s International Wool Secretariat prize produced two, Lagerfed and Saint Laurent. Lagerfeld won in the coats category, Saint Laurent in the dresses category, and the rest is history.

A thousand years later, AWI wants to make wool hip again(?) and in the process give a  few lucky designers a couple thousand bucks. AWI will hold regional design contests in China, Australia, India, Italy, the UK and France, with each finalist receiving cash money towards their next collection and a chance to participate in the international final.

The international finalist will be crowned in March 2013 and will receive $100,000 to underwrite their next fashion show, and their collections will be sold in Harvey Nichols in the UK, Lane Crawford in China, Eickhoff in Germany and Bergdorf Goodman in the US.

The US judging will take place on July 9 in New York with a panel of judges that includes CFDA CEO Steven Kolb, Narciso Rodriguez and T: The New York Times Style Magazine EIC Sally Singer. The international judging will he held in September during London Fashion Week where Diane von Fursteberg and Vogue Italia editrix Franca Sozzani will be among the judges. Designers are required to submit sketches of a six-piece merino wool capsule collection with one outfit fully produced.

Kolb has said that the CFDA has already received some 25 applications, not just from emerging designers but also brands “who could use a boost.” Although we’re not talking about the Calvin Kleins but rather small business owners. So to paraphrase another famous fashion competition,  ”Designers, start your engines…and may the best merino…WIN!” [WWD, sub req'd]

Lagerfeld, left, and Saint Laurent, center

The controversy stemmed from the proposed “second Thursday” rule and how long it would remain in effect. The rule dictated that New York would kick off the fashion show calendar on the second Thursday of every September and February. New York and London claimed that they had all agreed on the rule in perpetuity, while Milan and Paris countered that the rule was only for three years, after which they’d revisit the issue.

This September, however, the “second Thursday rule” would have pushed the start of NYFW to Sept. 13, thus pushing everyone else a week back, causing conflicts in ordering and delivery. Milan then threatened to keep its show dates as they were, which would cause an overlap between LFW and MFW. Paris then also decided to keep its original show dates, which prompted the CFDA to move September’s NYFW back one week to Sept. 6.

But after all that dramatic, multinational hubub,  the CFDA and BFC released a joint statement yesterday confirming a new agreement where New York starts on the first Thursday through 2014, and both Paris and Milan are happy with the outcome.

Steven Kolb, CFDA CEO, explained that the Council “tried to change the dates and keep [the start] on the second Thursday [of September and February], so that American designers would have more time for the delivery of fabrics and for preparing their collections. We worked hard to get Paris and Milan to agree with the second Thursday start and, unfortunately, we were unable to convince them otherwise, and so our first Thursday start is based on Paris and Milan’s decision to not move their dates.”

Mario Boselli, the sharp-tongued president of the CNMI, cheered that “common sense has prevailed,” adding that he was “pleased” over the compromise mainly for two reasons: “it’s a three-year agreement, and not a 20-year one as somebody had suggested, and it’s a schedule that is underwritten by all parties. We entirely approve of this [confirmation], which is a sign of respect to all operators, buyers and editors involved, who, while facing the complexities of the markets, can at least count on the certainty of the calendars.”

While Milan has yet to confirm its show dates for 2014, this is what the fashion week calendar will look like for the next three years:

2012:

NYFW — Sept. 6 – Sept. 13
LFW — Sept. 14 – Sept. 18
MFW — Sept. 19 – Sept. 25
PFW — Sept. 25 – Oct. 3

2013:

NYFW — Feb. 7 – Feb. 14; Sept. 5 – Sept. 12
LFW — Feb. 15 – Feb. 19; Sept. 13 – Sept. 17
MFW — Feb. 20 – Feb. 26; Sept. 18 – Sept. 24
PFW — Feb. 26 – Mar. 6; Sept. 24 – Oct. 2

2014:

NYFW — Feb. 6 – Feb. 13; Sept. 4 – Sept. 11
LFW — Feb. 14 – Feb. 18; Sept. 12 – Sept. 16
PFW — Feb.  25 – Mar. 5; Sept. 23 – Oct. 1

And so everything is peaceful in the world of fashion…except that the deal between IMG and Lincoln Center is up in 2015, leaving the future home of New York Fashion Week up in the air. But that’s not for another few years, so let’s enjoy the peace while we can. [WWD, sub req'd]

CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg, Vogue‘s Anna Wintour, Vanity Fair‘s Graydon Carter and a host of industry professionals including Calvin Klein‘s Francisco Costa, Tory Burch, Zac Posen, Theory’s Andrew Rosen, Nanette Lepore, Derek Lam and Joseph Altuzarra joined Sen. Kirsten Gillibrand (D-NY) at a breakfast yesterday to outline the initiative.

“This is such an opportunity for all of us — as an industry, as New Yorkers, as people who do an extraordinary job in creating economic growth — to join with the NRDC to take on this mission, which I think is unprecedented, and really herald a new era of what social change can be done by industry,” Gillibrand said.

One of Clean by Design’s goals is to get designers, retailers and brands to better understand their chain of supply and promote factory improvements. Those in attendance were shown a video depicting a Chinese river polluted by dyes with the statement that next season’s colors will be dictated by the colors of China’s rivers.

“We have found opportunities to reduce impact, using means that actually save the factories money, with process efficiency improvements that win-win, so to speak,” said Linda Greer, director of NRDC’s health and environment program. “The era of operating without knowledge of your factories abroad is ending, and the curtain is rising above the sorts of problems and aspirations that we have abroad.”

Anna Carter, a trustee of the NRDC, added, “It takes as much as 200 tons of water to produce 1 ton of fabric. Since less than 1 percent of the world’s water is drinkable, and our demand for it is on track to double over the next 40 years, this is an issue we need to address. We would be much more effective if we address it together.”

To that end, the NRDC developed its 10 Best Practices, low-cost solutions to reduce water, electricity and energy usage; from leak detection and maintenance in factories to recovering heat from smoke stacks. For every ton of fabric produced, these 10 practices can cut water usage by up to 23% and fuel usage by up to 32%.

PPR and one of its holdings Stella McCartney have already signed on to Clean by Design, though McCartney totally phoned it in; literally.  While she couldn’t make the breakfast, she sent along a video acknowledging her support. [WWD, sub req'd]

All 76 of the designer totes sold within the first hour of the sale last Tuesday and The Bucket and Gear styles (the one’s we’re giving away)  will be on sale until this Saturday, March 31.

To enter all you have to do is comment below telling us: Why you can’t fake fashion. The top two answers will each win bags. Make sure you enter know while you still have a chance!

If you have any questions regarding the contest you can tweet me directly at @mcarthurjoseph.

Good Luck!

The NYCEDC is currently seeking a financial institution to back the Production Fund and add to the $1 million it’s already seeded for the project.

Once the Fund gets off the ground, however, designers will be able to receive loans ranging from $75,000 to $150,000 for materials and manufacturing costs, as long as they use local factories in their production. The NYC Fashion Production Fund will only be available to New York-based designers and will also offer guidance and mentorship — sort of like the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund but without Anna Wintour breathing down your neck. [WWD]

Over 75 designers including CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg, Ralph Lauren, Robert Geller, Betsey Johnson, Tommy Hilfiger, Tory Burch and recent CFDA womenswear designer of the year nominee The Row have contributed customized totes, retailing for $200 on eBay.

If that’s a little out of your price range, basic limited edition totes in four styles are also available for $45.

According to eBay’s senior vice president of global communications, Alan Marks, the demand was so great for the fashion forward totes they “doubled the size of the collection in addition to offering more styles.”

The collection goes on sale today with sales benefiting the CFDA Foundation. Check out some of the bags up for grabs in the gallery below. [WWD]

This year, marking the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s 50th anniversary, the awards will be presented on June 4 at Lincoln Center’s Alice Tulley Hall in a ceremony hosted by Saturday Night Live also-ran Seth Meyers.

Womenswear Designer of the Year

Marc Jacobs
Proenza Schouler
The Row

Menswear Designer of the Year

Patrik Ervell
Billy Reid
Simon Spurr

Accessory Designer of the Year

Alexander Wang
Reed Krakoff 
Proenza Schouler

Swarovski Award for Emerging Talent – Womenswear

Joseph Altuzarra
Chris Peters and Shane Gabier, Creatures of the Wind 
Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty, Suno 

Swarovski Award for Emerging Talent — Menswear

Antonio Azzuolo
Todd Snyder
Phillip Lim

Swarovski Award for Emerging Talent – Accessory Design

Tabitha Simmons
Pamela Love
Irene Neuwirth

Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award

Tommy Hilfiger

International Award

Rei Kawakubo

Eleanor Lambert Founders Award

Andrew Rosen

Eugenia Sheppard Media Award

Scott Schuman and Garance Doré

Fashion Icon Award

Johnny Depp

So what do you think of the nominees? The Olsens sure have come a long way, baby, but does Marc Jacobs really need/deserve another CFDA nomination?

And bloggers have made their official entrée into the CFDA with noted streetstyle documentarians, Garance Doré and The Sartorialist‘s Scott Schuman, receiving the Media Award — is this a new level of legitimacy for the blogosphere? And if so, who’s next?

Also, when did that homeless man on the street known as Johnny Depp become a fashion icon? These questions and others will be answered on June 4 at the CFDA Awards. [WWD]

With backing from Michael Kors co-chairman Silas Chou, the China Exchange program will foster talent from both sides of the globe as the East becomes a larger and more important market. According to CFDA CEO Steven Kolb, this isn’t a one-time thing, either. “We never want to do anything as a one-off. We really like to connect and invest in things that have real meaning and depth,” he told WWD.

Wang will make two visits to the states, first in May and then she’ll return for New York Fashion Week. During her stays, the designer will work with Andrew Rosen‘s Theory as well as with tanned turtlenecked titan Michael Kors and visit Barneys, Google and Xanadu itself, the offices of Vogue. Oh, and she’ll also be put up by W Hotels.

No word yet on what the Proenza kids will be doing but after such an amazing experience, by the time NYFW rolls around Wang will already have Freaky Friday’d one of them. [WWD, sub req'd]

“Just remember, she’s very shy.”

That was Diane von Furstenberg‘s warning to Kolb before meeting Anna Wintour. By the time he met Vogue‘s diva doyenne, Kolb had already gotten the job as Executive Director of the Council of Fashion Designers of America – a title that would eventually morph into his current as Chief Executive Officer —  and even though Wintour was not a member of the CFDA, meeting her was still obligatory. But they got along swimmingly.

And why wouldn’t they? This from the man who, after his initial interview with von Furstenberg and the CFDA board,  received an email from DVF herself saying simply, “I love you — Diane.”

Hailing from a non-profit background, Kolb has often claimed he’s an “accidental fashion drone” and despite his standing as the head of an organization that counts among its members the biggest and greatest designers in American fashion, he still gets excited by fashion shows. Though becoming a member of that prestigious organization, as one would expect, is no easy feat.

To be considered for CFDA membership, a designer has to have been in business for at least three years, have two letters of recommendation from CFDA members, retail presence and positive editorial coverage. Kolb stressed, however, that the most important thing for a designer to possess is a personal and unique point of view. It is also important for designers to do their homework.

Literally.

Applying to the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, for example, requires a lengthy personal essay outlining why you love fashion, how you got started, the ins and outs of your business, as well as a five and ten year business plan. “Clarity on what you want your brand to be,” he said, “along with real talent is an ideal candidate.”

Since announcing their move from the Garment District, the CFDA has come under fire for seemingly abandoning the made in America, or at least Midtown, mantra. To wit, a member of the audience asked why the CFDA didn’t consider Harlem, with its surplus of abandoned buildings and cheap rent, for the future of manufacturing.

“The industry is stuck on Midtown as where fashion needs to be,” Kolb responded but he also insisted that with rising costs abroad — particularly in China —  ”You’re going to see a return to manufacturing in Manhattan in a big way.”

But the night wasn’t all about business. Henderson wrapped up her conversation with Kolb by asking him what was something that no one would know about him. Turns out Steven Kolb, CEO of the CFDA, was a football jock.

“I was the setter.” He was quick to clarify. “The guy who gives the ball to the guy who throws the ball.” Though he spent most of his time on the bench, Kolb proved popular with the cheerleaders who had a cheer especially for him: “Put Steven in! Put Steven in!”

Nevertheless, Kolb quit midway through the football season and joined the drama club. And I guess the rest is more or less history.

His sense of mixing metals is a trend that has cropped up ever more since his rise to prominence; to him it’s a puzzle. He has sacrificed valuable anqtiues to his art, and keeps every bit that crosses his table, for it could be the part that completes the next piece. We caught up with Justin about his craft and what he’s digging now, when he’s not busy with his new gig as Director of Jewelry Design for Tory Burch.

What is your favorite stone to work with at the moment?  

Pale Quartz, pink, yellow, smoke, blue, I am really into pastel colors at the moment, but not in a flat lacquered way.  I want the feeling of citrus without the fruit!

Where’s the weirdest place you’ve ever found materials?  

Hunting store.  It was in the backwoods and when I told the shop keep that I wanted the taxidermy bunny masks for fashion not fly fishing, I know I herd some rifles click.

What’s the longest you’ve worked on one piece and why? 

About about 150 hours. I wanted it to be REALLY BIG.

Tell me about your most thrilling sale.

First, as an artist, it is always thrilling to make a sale.  Celebrities and Real People are equal in my eyes.  Royalty however, one can always get excited about.  I sold some earrings once, then a year later I got a call that Her MajestyQueen Noor of Jordan lost one of her favorite earrings and could it be replaced.  I was happy to remake the earring, and she sent me several images of her wearing them on her Diplomatic tours.  It felt good!

- Get ready to go back to school and get some class. The Condé Nast College of Fashion & Design is now accepting applications. [Vogue UK]

- Michelle Obama wore Jason Wu — for Target — at an event in Florida over the weekend. And she looks super jazzed about it. [Huff Po]

-  Shit fashion people say at the Theysken’s Theory show. Not a viral video. Just real talk. My personal fave: “The after-party last night. How dare they? Cash bar?” Meanwhile, I don’t even know how they overheard that since I was nowhere near Thesyken’s Theory. [Paper Mag]

- While the CFDA recommends that designers don’t use models under 16, for his fall 2012 Marc Jacobs practically snatched them straight from the womb. [NYT]

- Of course the red carpet at the Grammys is entertaining enough, but add YouTube sensation Sophie Grace and gal Friday Rosie and the show just went H.A.M. [Fashionista]

Congrats on the move! Any news on the progress?

Architects are measuring the space, and we’ll be seeing the first round of designs next week. We’ll decide on the final design by end of the month. It will be built by Spring.

How do you plan on continuing to promote the Garment Center even though you’ve moving away from it?

We have the CFDA Incubator program there in the Garment Center. We have 6 designers graduating this spring, and we’re helping them all to find studio space there. We’re seeding the neighborhood. We’ve got 10 more designers we’re helping find space there. We are also conducting a study with the Made in Midtown Design Trust for Public Space to see how we can use the Garment Center better.

And CFDA prospectives on your horizon? What new designers have you excited this season?

I can’t name any. I like every show, I just like going to the shows. I love the collective energy of talented designers and creative people. Fashion Week is one big giant long runway!

What’s the first thing you’re going to do once the giant runway of Fashion Week has come to a close?

I’m going to my house in Pennsylvania to relax.

And relax you should. You deserve it. Enjoy!

Though only a relative handful of designs were chosen for the exhibit, Impact represents nearly every major American designer of the past 50 years — from Pauline Trigère to Diane von Furstenberg, Halston to Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren to Calvin Klein, Oscar de la Renta to Thom Browne and Donna Karan to Rodarte.

“For someone like me who wasn’t born in America, Impact almost sounds like a 1950s American car,” explained CFDA pres DVF on a walkthrough of the exhibit yesterday. “That’s what America is about. It’s about precise fashion, and not fashion for the sake of fashion. It combines fashion and street, and fashion and life.”

400 active members of the CFDA were asked to choose one look that best represented them or made the most impact on their careers, while museum curators Patricia Mears and Fred Dennis chose for the dearly departed. Work of members whose pieces were not chosen for the installation are displayed in evening vignettes and video projections.

“Not all the CFDA members could be included on the gallery floor,” CFDA CEO Steven Kolb told WWD, “so we created an interactive directory of all members presented on 10 iPad stations throughout the exhibit.”

There’s also a media room where visitors can use iPads to scroll through a timeline of CFDA history and key moments in American fashion. And not ones to be left behind on the social media front, there’s even a hashtag for the Twitter-inclined — #impactcfda.

“We didn’t know what designers would send, so every day felt like birthday with a surprise,” Mears said. “In some cases, we got things that were very clear. When you see the Diane von Furstenberg [wrap] dress, you know it’s hers. When you see the Ralph Lauren [Americana] ensemble, you know it’s Ralph.”

And sometimes, things weren’t so clear. For instance, Marc Jacobs initially wanted a look from his then-controversial but now-iconic 1993 gunge collection for Perry Ellis, but since he didn’t own any of it Anna Sui donated a dress from her private collection.

“For me, the great difficulty with American fashion is that we are so diverse,” Mears continued. “You have the most flamboyant ballgowns and the most wearable and accessible garments. Everything speaks to the product coming out of what I call the American machine — the design machine, the manufacturing machine, the retailing machine, the marketing machine. All of it is part of American fashion over the last 50 years, and I hope that diversity is reflected here.”

Impact: 50 Years of the CFDA will run from February 10 through April 17 and will definitely be a must-see during Fashion Week. [WWD, sub req'd]

- Celebrities are clamoring to spice up their red carpet lives by wearing Victoria Beckham to this year’s Oscars. [Daily Mail]

- Victoria’s Secret Angel Kylie Bisutti apparently took her title too seriously and quit VS because god doesn’t care for that kind of behavior in his heavenly hosts. [Vogue UK]

- Ellen DeGeneres took the moral high road in responding to the One Million Moms group that wanted JC Penney to dump her for being a big ole lez. I, however will continue skipping merrily along on the low road by saying, “Suck on that, trash.” [EW]

- Christian Siriano may have been denied membership to the CFDA, but he’s “fine” with not being “a Wang or a Wu” as long as he has wads of cash to wipe his tears. [NYT]

- Kanye West is showing his sophomore collection on March 6 at 9:30 pm during Paris Fashion Week. Anna Wintour is expected to leave at 9:31. [WWD]

- Hey, Linds, your tit’s out. Oh, nevermind, you’re with Terry Richardson. Carry on. [Terry's Diary]

On Friday, the CFDA signed a 10-year lease on a new 9,310-square-ft office space at 65 Bleecker Street, where it plans to move this summer. Nanette Lepore, a staunch supporter of the Save the Garment Center movement, couldn’t help but express her concern: “We are extremely disappointed by the CFDA’s decision to leave the Garment Center. We only hope this does not signal the end of their previous support for New York City manufacturing and emerging American designers.”

Anthony Lilore, a founding member of Save the Garment Center, was a bit more equivocal: “Symbolically, I do think it is a black eye, but the New York Times is not located in Times Square, Sullivan Street Bakery is not on Sullivan Street and Madison Square Garden is not at Madison Square, so the CFDA should be where the designers are and that could just as easily be L.A. [Ed. note: No it couldn't.] but they are still in New York City. I wish them well in their new home.” Adding,  ”I think that, symbolically, it’s not right, but the industry has changed so much over the past 20 years and even five years that I don’t think it makes a whole lot of difference where they are.”

Citing a need for more space and a lack of prime real estate in the Garment District, CFDA CEO Steven Kolb insisted that his organization would nevertheless remain committed to its old home: “The CFDA is still there and to what extent the other stakeholders are disappointed about the move, our work is going to keep going. We are not abandoning anything. Our commitment stays strong.”

And to put all fears to rest, DVF — ever the angelic voice of reason — swooped in with her two cents: “We needed a very large space so we can have board meetings and clinics there. We found a great space with a great deal, and that’s that. We looked for a long time, and we didn’t find the right opportunity.” Not content to just talk the talk, von Furstenberg is also walking the catwalk by expanding her business in the Garment District with more factory space and sample room.

Because those wrap dresses ain’t gonna wrap themselves. [WWD, sub req'd]

- Apparently yesterday was “Gossip Girl Day” in New York. Which explains why everyone was making half-assed literary references and plotting against everyone in Brooklyn. [Gawker]

- Parisian couturier Jean Luc Amsler dug up Jerry Hall from whatever velvet-lined crypt she’s been sleeping in and paraded her down his catwalk. [Telegraph]

- Céline has opened their first freestanding boutique in New York. So far, no Kanye West sightings. [Racked]

- She. Died. Rachel Zoe dressed up like a vampire for LOVE Magazine. Or maybe someone just caught her without a stitch of makeup. Either way, terrifying/fabulous. [Stylecaster]

- Go behind the scenes of Alexis Bittar‘s new campaign starring the Absolutely Fabulous Edina Monsoon and Patsy Stone, aka the divine Jennifer Saunders and Joanna Lumley.

- Perhaps anticipating a forthcoming lull in her career, Rihanna has signed on to host and produce her first reality show. [Huff Po]

- Diane von Furstenberg still does not care for any jailbait on her goddamn runway, thanks. [The Cut]

- IMG threw it way back to the Renaissance for its show package, featuring star models Joan Smalls, Candice Swanepoel, Jessica Stam, Karolina Kurkova, Lily Donaldson et al photoshopped into classic works of art. [Modelinia]

- Noted wheeler and occasional dealer Pat Sajak claims he’s hosted Wheel of Fortune drunk on many an occasion. In fact, he and Vanna White used to knock back “two or three or six” maggy ritas during lunch. Or what I like to call a Wednesday. [The Hollywood Reporter]

-Here’s a preview of Adriana Lima‘s Super Bowl commercial for Kia. Mid-sized economy cars just got a whole lotta sexy:

While one could argue that the statement — “Twenty years ago the average fashion model weighed 8% less than the average woman. Today she weighs 23% less.” — doesn’t take into account the fact that women 20 years ago probably weighed less than they do now — two decades of fast food will do that to you — one only has to consider who the average fashion model was 20 years ago. Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, Linda Fucking Evangelista…these women were Amazons and Glamazons; healthy, gorgeous and glowing with the energy of life and $10,000 a day paychecks. Then Kate Moss came shuffling in and changed the game. Despite the veracity of the facts, if anything the spread stimulates a debate. And more importantly, it offers images of a beautiful woman who is not only clearly proud of her voluptuous body, but also pretty damned flexible to boot. [Buzzfeed]

The face of victory, Mario Boselli

New York and the CFDA has agreed to not push back the dates of New York Fashion Week in accordance with the “Second Thursday rule” so as not to interfere with Milan’s show dates. The CFDA’s chief executive officer Steven Kolb graciously and begrudgingly admitted defeat at the hands of noted shit-talker Mario Boselli of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana in a statement today:

“We’ve been back and forth on this. People are anxious and need to know the dates. There’s no value for the cities to compete. In the spirit of working together, London and New York are in agreement that we will go in the earlier period, but with the hope that the four cities will come out of this confusion and work together to plan future show weeks. We need to begin to look at the fashion season not as individual fashion weeks, but very much as a global business.”

Well, at least it’s over and no lives were lost. But it being a fashion war, expect some scathing reviews flooding in from the upcoming fall 2012 runway shows in Milan and Paris because shade is the only real weapon of combat. As for next year, New York will show from September 6 thru 13, London from September 14 thru 18, Milan from September 19 thru 25 and Paris from September 26 thru October 3. [WWD]

- With New York Fashion Week only a month away — cue panic attack — the CFDA wants to make sure you’re not freebasing Sugarfree Red Bulls and replacing the sugar in your coffee with cocaine by hosting a panel dedicated to living healthy. If I wanted to live healthy during fashion week I’d just sleep through it. [The Cut]

- Time to tune into TRL and vote for your favorite videos of the day! Oh, wait, it’s not 1998. But it certainly feels like it now that 90s R&B divas Brandy and Monica are reuniting to sing-argue who the boy really belongs to for their new duet, “Turn the Lights On.” I just hope the video involves a split-screen and a tube-top turtleneck. [Buzzfeed]

- Kim Kardashian wished Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge née Kate Middleton a happy birthday the only way she knew how: with a convenient product placement. Meanwhile, if the Duchess is ever caught dead in a Shoedazzle heel, all the style points she earned with that McQueen wedding gown will go right out the window. [Huff Po]

-  Models just can’t keep it in their pants these days. Molly Sims is the latest catwalker to get knocked up. [Modelinia]

- Barbie may be making some questionable choices as of late, but the pint-sized fashion plate has never looked so badass, thanks to these amazing printable hair extensions. Now if they just came out with these in human size. [Refinery29]

- PETA strikes again. The most annoying people in the world have now taken issue with Oscar de la Renta’s Beats by Dre headphones, imploring beatsmith Dr. Dre to use his “tremendous amount of influence on young people…to advocate kindness toward animals by pledging never to design with real fur and exotic skins.” The good doctor, unsurprisingly, has not responded. [Huff Po]

- In the age of viral this and social media that, why let something as petty as death interfere with your internet life? Now you don’t have to, thanks to a new app that ensures your last words will be disseminated to all your Facebook friends, in the event of your untimely passing. But more importantly, can you poke some one from beyond… [Refinery29]

-Anna Wintour‘s biannual HJ to the industry, Fashion’s Night Out, will make an uncalled-for return next year to once again haunt the sartorial streets. [WWD]

-  Jonathan Saunders, Mary Katrantzou, Marios Schwab and Nicholas Kirkwood are among the finalists for next year’s British Fashion Council/Vogue Fashion Fund. [Vogue UK]

- Michael Kors IPO is listed at $20/share, which will probably be the least you’ll ever pay for a Michael Kors anything from here on out. [WWD]

- The First Family posed for a new family portrait and while it’s all cute and familial, we can clearly see Michelle‘s roots and homegirl could use a touch-up. [Just Jared]

- Vera Wang is getting in touch with her inner dude by outfitting some real dudes. While brides will wear her doomed David’s Bridal gowns to their weddings, their grooms will wear her new Men’s Warehouse tuxedos. And then everyone will go to the Olive Garden and cap the night off with a few PBRs. [WWD]

- While Vera slums it in the discount wholesale bin, Levi’s is classing their game up. The jeans giant will show at New York Fashion Week for the first time come February. Hopefully the CFDA will have cut whatever day said show is by then. [WWD]

Didier Grumbach / Photo: The Crowd Blog

“I don’t understand why Paris completely and totally just ignored what all of us have worked so hard on,” DVF said. “I am speechless. I just e-mailed [Chambre Syndicale president Didier Grumbach] and said that I was completely in shock.”

Grumbach, for his part, plans on sending a letter explaining his position to von Furstenberg, but for the Chambre, the decision came down to a matter of deadlines. “It was perfectly open and clear and very obvious that our members could not accept this…” Grumbach explained, referring to the previous back and forth between everyone.

“We fall at the end of the calendar, ” he continued. “All of the member houses agreed that this would make them very late in taking orders, which in turn would be penalizing for deliveries. It’s an industrial reason: you are a manufacturer, you need your orders early…Who wants to be penalized? It doesn’t make sense. We have had lots of meetings about pushing Paris show dates earlier as many brands really want that.”

In a board meeting presided over by Hermès deputy managing director Guillaume de Seynes, members voted unanimously to keep  their show dates, thus flying in the face of the proposed second Thursday rule.  For 2013, Paris will show from February 26 (a Tuesday) to March 6 and then from September 24 (also a Tuesday) to October 2; the dates for 2014 are (Tuesday) February 25  to March 5 and (Tuesday) September 23 to October 1.

And in a case of that playground staple monkey see-monkey do, Milan’s Camera Nazionale della Moda president Mario Boselli proclaimed: “We were going to move if Paris was also moving. As Paris is not moving, we won’t either.” He then stuck out his tongue, stole the CFDA’s lunch money and pushed London’s British Fashion Council off the swings.

So what does this all mean? Well, according to Boselli, in order to avoid any show schedule overlap New York and the CFDA are going to have to swallow their pride: “Perhaps the only way out would be for the Americans to reduce their fashion week to seven days, as nine days is too long, and start a couple of days after Labor Day.”

Now that Paris won’t change its schedule, neither will Milan, leaving London and New York on the other side of the aisle — and I wouldn’t be surprised if one side casually slipped out a stilettoed heel to “accidentally” trip the other on the march towards compromise. [WWD]

25. Beyoncé at the VMAs How does an internationally-renowned pop diva announce her alleged pregnancy with as little -- and yet as much -- fanfare as possible? Why in Lanvin and Dolce and Gabbana, of course. Cupping her burgeoning baby bump on the red carpet, Bey let loose the dogs of publicity war when she thew her mic to the ground, ripped open her Dolce jacket, and announced to the world the coming of the Messiah.

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24. Karl Lagerfeld's obsession with Blake Lively Blake Lively is Karl Lagerfeld's kind of girl. And he didn't hesitate to let everyone know, naming the Gossip Girl star Chanel's official purse ambassador, throwing her in print ads, parading her about the French Riviera and most terrifying of all, showing her something bearing resemblance to actual affection.

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23. The rise of the tween style icon -- Hailee Steinfeld, Chloe Moretz and Elle Fanning cover LOVE magazine The kids are more than all right, they're fucking fabulous. Hailee Steinfeld, Elle Fanning and Chloe Moretz showed that style knows no age limits, landing on best-dressed lists while barely in high school. Miu Miu tapped Steinfeld for its fall campaign and Rodarte had Fanning star in a short film, while all three graced the cover of LOVE magazine this summer.

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22. Emma Watson, style icon Emma Watson truly came into her own this year in a series of flawless looks both on and off the red carpet, some stunning editorial work, a capsule collection with Alberta Ferretti and a campaign with Lancôme. Hermione's not a girl, and very nearly a woman.

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21. Christian Dior's disastrous Haute Couture show 2011 had its share of disastrous runway shows, but none as disastrous as Christian Dior's fall 2011 haute couture show. Left to his own devices, poor Bill Gaytten offered up an overwrought and wildly incoherent mess that, despite being maligned by pretty much everyone, still wound up on at least one red carpet thanks to Katy Perry. Let's just say she didn't help matters any.

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20. Christian Louboutin trademark case Christian Louboutin tried, and failed, and is still trying to copyright its "trademark" red sole. By the way, I'm legally obligated to use trademark in quotations.

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19. Versace for H&M One of the most buzzed-about diffusion lines of the year, Donatella Versace's exclusive one-off collection reignited interest in the brand's sumptuous archives and had everyone from Anna Dello Russo to Kanye West clamoring for those Medusa heads and Miami prints.

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18. Karlie Kloss comes of age They grow up so fast! Karlie Kloss turned 19 this year, covered Life Magazine, shed her clothes on several occasions, became a Victoria's Secret Angel and got eye-banged by Leonardo Dicaprio -- in other words, she very publicly became an adult and a supermodel.

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17. Lady Gaga wins over Anna Wintour Anna Wintour embraced Lady Gaga with open arms this year, putting her on the cover of Vogue and presenting her with the CFDA Fashion Icon Award. And Gaga thanked her by calling her a bitch and showing up in a walking wardrobe malfunction to the ceremony. BFFs, y'all!

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16. Elizabeth Taylor's death and subsequent jewelry auction Elizabeth Taylor's death was the passing of a true legend and a style icon but her legacy lives on not only through her films, but also her impressive collection of jewels and haute couture that is being auctioned off by Christies this month.

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15. Michelle Obama's McQueen controversy Michelle Obama had jaws dropping in her Alexander McQueen gown for China's state dinner but it was the fallout from the dress by Oscar de la Renta and other American designers that made the dress truly newsworthy.

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14. Victoria Beckham, fashion designer This year Victoria Beckham lived up to her nom-de-Spice by gaining real credibility as a designer, and not just another celebrity with too much time on their hands, while simultaneously stepping out of her husband's sexy shadow. A win at the British Fashion Awards for Design Brand of the Year capped off a year of living poshly.

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13. The Valentino Garavani Virtual Museum Sneaking in at the end of the year, the virtual Valentino museum is an innovative and ingenious step by one of the world's most iconic designers that makes his formidable legacy available to anyone who wants it. A novel and forward-thinking concept that belies Valentino's 800 years.

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12. The rise and subsequent fall of the fascinator Trends come and go all the time in fashion, but rarely has one particular trend impacted culture so hard and been discarded so fast. The Royal Wedding inspired ladies everywhere to make it a say-something hat day, but it was Princess Beatrice's fascinator that may go down as one of the most infamous pieces of millinery in modern recollection.

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11. Marc Jacobs stolen spring 2012 collection Lifted from a train en route from Paris, the theft of parts of Marc Jacobs' spring 2012 collection was this year's biggest and most intriguing mystery. Besides, of course, whether Marc himself would defect to Christian Dior or stick it out with Louis Vuitton -- who, coincidentally, was also a victim of theft just two weeks later. Yep, big coincidence.

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10. Fashion Week calendar controversy Tensions came to a head between the four fashion capitals, leaving the fate of upcoming fashion weeks up in the air. But if there's one thing we've learned from this is you don't fuck with the Italians.

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9. Kate Moss' fairytale wedding It was only a few years ago that Kate Moss was spiraling down a cocaine-encrusted rabbit hole, but fashion's favorite bad girl has finally settled down. Moss wed longtime beau Jamie Hince in an epic three-day long ceremony known cheekily as Mosstock. BFF Naomi Campbell was one of her bridesmaids, and in a show of solidarity, Moss chose a wedding dress by John Galliano. Kate Moss' wedding was not only front-page news, it garnered the most coveted cover of the year: Vogue's September issue.

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8. Bill Cunningham New York Originating and perfecting the art of streetstyle photography decades before The Sartorialist picked up a camera, Bill Cunningham finally got his time in the spotlight thanks to a heartwarming documentary that reveled a little of the man behind that ubiquitous lens.

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7. Kanye West shows at Paris Fashion Week Kanye West is a man of many talents, though fashion design may or may not be one of them. A true lover of fashion, West did his research and worked with the best people but in the end he let his usual over-zealousness get the best of him and the result? When prompted for her opinion on West's collection, Anna Wintour responded: "Ask someone else."

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6. Missoni for Target Missoni for Target took the high-low collaboration craze to a fever pitch, crashing Target's website and selling out shortly after hitting the shelves. That is, before those items appeared on eBay for several times what they had originally cost, thus negating the entire process.

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5. The rise of Lea T. and Andrej Pejic Transsexual lady Lea T. met Oprah and androgynous male model Andrej Pejic met the Queen of England this year. If that weren't enough of a moment, these two gals also shattered boundaries in fashion and modeling, and in the process became icons and role models to the LGBTQ community.

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4. The reinvention of Carine Roitfeld Quele scandale! Did she get fired? Did she quit? Are she and Emmanuelle Alt no longer friends? The rumors have been buzzing around Carine Roitfeld since she officially exiting Vogue Paris in February -- and in the process creating a future supermodel in Saskia de Brauw --  after 10 landmark, nipple-bearing years. But through it all, Carine has been the picture of calm and chic, hiking up her pencil skirt and reinventing herself as a brilliant and in-demand stylist/the coolest bitch on the planet. Stay tuned for another reinvention when Carine launches a new magazine and starts life as a grandmother next year.

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3. Kate Middleton's Alexander McQueen wedding dress The speculation was unbearable for what was the biggest and most well-kept secret in an age of superfluous information. Though an unsurprising but nevertheless brilliant choice, Sarah Burton's handiwork cemented the Duchess of Cambridge (née Kate Middleton) as not only a bona fide style icon but a phenomenon on both sides of the Atlantic. Meanwhile, Burton proved she was the right person to carry on McQueen's brilliant legacy and take it to the next level.

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2. Alexander McQueen's Savage Beauty The most successful fashion exhibit in the Metropolitan Museum of Art's  history, Alexander McQueen's Savage Beauty set records and inspired fashion lovers and neophytes alike. The exhibit proved so popular, in fact, the Met extended its run twice. Even then, there were still lines of people waiting hours to get into the museum, but for 661,509 people it was well-worth the wait.

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1. John Galliano stars in Gallianogate John Galliano's downfall has loomed large all year, particularly since Christian Dior has yet to announce his replacement, despite a neverending back-and-forth with a stubborn Marc Jacobs. Following a stint in rehab, a guilty conviction in Paris for making anti-Semitic remarks, and the general destruction of his reputation, Galliano at least had one bright spot this year: designing good friend Kate Moss' wedding dress. Galliano's dismissal also raised questions about the stress designers are under to deliver  multiple collections a year -- just ask Balmain's Christophe Decarnin. Everyone's still waiting to see who Dior picks to take the throne and if Galliano can make a comeback after such a devastating fall. As 2011 comes to a close, 2012 has the promise of even more scandals, breakdowns and breakthroughs that we cannot wait to cover obsessively for you. If we missed any epic moments or if you're particularly incensed over Lindsay Lohan's Playboy spread not making the list, leave a comment below.

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So this whole shebang is getting all kinds of complicated so here’s a quick run-down:

New York, London, Milan and Paris had agreed — at least in the minds of New York and London — to always and forever start the fashion show calendar on the second Thursday of February and September way back in 2008. Milan and Paris claimed they had agreed to no such thing.

In accordance with this — the “second Thursday rule” — NYFW would start on September 13, thus moving everyone else back one week. Milan said, “Not cool, bro” and threatened to decide its own dates and Condé Nast threatened a boycott by all Vogue editors.

Milan said “Screw you guys, bring it on,” by deciding to keep their original dates, September 19-25, thus conflicting with both New York and London, prompting DVF to ask, “Can’t we all just get along?”

Then New York said, “Fine, you win” and offered to move the dates of the September 2012 shows, to Septembr 6 (the first Thursday) through September 13.

Milan said, “Damn right we win,” then decided to throw its weight around by stipulating that New York had to cut out the September 13 date to accommodate London’s men’s collections. And New York said, “Fuggedaboutit.”

Which more or less brings us up to speed. So the CFDA is waiting to hear if the Camera Nazionale accepts this latest development. As for the second Thursday rule, the CFDA proposed revisiting it after three years and meeting with the Camera in 2013 to discuss the 2014 show dates.

Still confused? Don’t blame you. Which is why they should just settle this with a good old-fashioned walk-off like civilized people. [WWD]

The troops storm the runway

The Camera will agree to start the fashion week calendar on the second Thursday of September, beginning in 2013, but only if: a.) New York cuts the last day of its fashion week so as to give London an extra day for their men’s wear collections, and b.) Paris agrees to the schedule.

Paris Fashion Week, in a prime example of saving the best for last, always follows Milan Fashion Week – but by adhering to the second Thursday rule the dates of the former will be pushed even later, to the beginning of October. Meanwhile, Didier Grumbach, the president of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, said on Wednesday that “nothing has changed for 2012″ for Paris and that the Chambre will meet in December to discuss PFW’s 2013 and 2014 show dates.

So it seems the final decision lays with Paris as Milan is ready to walk away from the table if their conditions aren’t met. Diane von Furstenberg, Steven Kolb and the rest of the CFDA are currently considering Milan’s plan, giving hope that maybe everyone can get this whole shebang sorted out before New Year’s.

And if that fails, DVF is not above boarding a tank and blowing the heel right off that boot-shaped country. [WWD]

The troops storm the runway

Through the concrete and brick columned hall of the CFDA Incubator, past glass doors with names like Bibhu Mohapatra, House of Waris and Prabal Gurung etched upon them, sits a room on the end that houses the studio of a French expat with a beautiful concept. Alice Ritter works seemingly solitary in a tidy, brightly lit room with a towering cubic bookshelf, a sewing machine and inspiration all around. Her style rings from the authenticity of growing up in the late 70s in France, where Yves Saint Laurent was god and high power glossies were sacred. Having studied economics, she created a fashion lab within her home with her Brooklynite husband to pursue her true art of design. Poring over books and dissecting vintage clothing lead to her creating an aesthetic that is uniquely hers. 

What are your three fashion books you recommend to an aspiring fashion designer?

Oh! This Madeleine Vionnet book I’ve had for a long time, I know it by heart.  Madeleine Vionnet is such an inspiration. It was just so modern what she did, and she invented a new way to drape fabric and to drape the woman’s body. She not as famous as Gabrielle Chanel or Christian Dior. I mean she’s famous amongst fashion people and she’s more influential for me.

This Balenciaga book is beautiful not just because I’m fascinated with Balenciaga, but the book its self is just a beautiful object, the way its printed, paper. Its really good. He was very forward thinking  He was like a sculptor almost.

Fashion Design 1850-1895 is a good one. It’s a classic. It’s a very well curated collection of clothes, and their details. It’s an endless source of inspiration. And a really good way to learn about costume and this sort of fashion.

To read the rest of the interview, click on over to LOOKBOOKS.com!

Tracee Ellis Ross and Brad Goreski

t christopher's male models

Joseph Altuzarra

Fashion Forward runway

Work by Mike Ruiz

FF 2011

Fashion Forward runway

Work by Mike Ruiz

FF 2011

Men of Buckler

MGU

MGU

MGU

MGU

MGU

Milk Gallery Underground

The CFDA has agreed to move New York Fashion Week back one week next September to accommodate Milan, but the catch is that Milan and Paris have to agree to abide by the second-Thursday rule from here on out. If Milan accepts the proposal, New York Fashion Week will be held from September 6 to 13 and London Fashion Week would run from September 14 to 18.

Boselli will have a meeting with the Camera on November 30 to discuss the matter. [WWD]

The Fashion Fund, created by the CFDA and Vogue to aid young and emerging designers, includes a mentorship program and a cash prize. Altuzarra took home $300,000 while runners-up Pamela Love of Pamela Love Jewelry and Shane Gabier and Chris Peters of Creatures of the Wind walked away with $100,000 each.

Those that went home empty-handed were Suno’s Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis; Carlos Campos; Antonio Azzuolo of A.A. Antonio Azzuolo; Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs of Cushnie et Ochs; Ohne Titel’s Alexa Adams and Flora Gill; Fenton/Fallon’s Dana Lorenz, and Soraya Silchenstedt of Finn Jewelry.

This year’s selection committee included Vogue’s editrix-in-chic Anna Wintour, CFDA prez Diane von Furstenberg and CEO Steven Kolb, Theory‘s Andrew Rosen, Coach‘s Reed Krakoff, J. Crew‘s Jenna Lyons, and past Fund winners — Proenza Schouler‘s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez. [WWD]

Karachi Fashion Week

One must also consider the undeniable impact of the internet and blogs, bringing the latest and greatest in fashion to anyone with a decent internet connection. Now a teenager in Ohio can gasp at the fantastical creations from Beijing Fashion Week as a blogger in Thailand livestreams the latest Marc Jacobs runway show. But with this democratization of the fashion industry comes its inevitable oversaturation. “Every other city is doing a fashion week. I think there can be only one market in the U.S., and that’s New York,” Kolb opines. So fashion weeks in Moscow, Karachi, Berlin, Zurich, Huston, Dubai, Portland, Rochester, Islamabad and Tel Aviv won’t garner the kind of respect or attention paid to London and Paris; clothes from its runways won’t land in Elle or W – nor might they ever be worn outside of their respective countries. However, Glenda Bailey’s or Anna Wintour‘s is not the only eye foreign designers hope to capture.

For participants in Islamabad Fashion Week, fashion is a new form of expression that further immerses them in the global culture of the 21st century. When filming Fashion Week Internationale for Vice.com, hostess Charlet Duboc was surprised at the presence of women in full Burkas volunteering backstage:  “I couldn’t quite believe it. How does that work? How can you look at that and admire it and yet know you can’t wear it? But they were there, they were appreciating it and it didn’t feel like there was a divide. Like, ‘You do your thing, I do my thing’ and everyone got along.” Fashion transcends more than just clothing to become a force for cultural change. And a force for economic change. Speaking with the Wall Street Journal, Zurain Imam observed,  ”Fashion in Pakistan for a long time has been an entertainment sport; at [Karachi Fashion Week], we are trying to really make it about the business of fashion.”

While Kolb concedes that smaller fashion weeks can be good training ground for prospective designers, some bigger names are flocking abroad to show their collections. There probably is no hotter designer in America than Singapore-born, Nepalese-raised Prabal Gurung, whose last two presentations at New York Fashion Week met with near universal acclaim. Even he is considering showing his wares abroad in Moscow, Turkey, London and his native Singapore, saying, “There are so many emerging markets that we want to in some way be a part of, and I would love to showcase my collection in a more global way.” With a crowded and contentious calendar, Glenda Bailey won’t likely end up in Richmond, VA, but who’s to say that she won’t be stomping through a Singaporean jungle for the latest in spring ready-to-wear?

Karachi Fashion Week

Photo: Terry Richardson...duh

I would’ve thought that Marc was already on the board, if not president Diane von Furstenbrerg‘s girl Friday, but mazel to the kids, who were nominated by the board of directors way back in July. They’ll be joining the ranks of 26 designers, including Oscar de la Renta, Narciso Rodriguez, Tory Burch, Calvin Klein’s Francisco Costa and Norma Kamali. Meanwhile, Nicole Miller, John Bartlett and Richard Lambertson are leaving the board of directors to join the Emeritus board. [WWD]

For more information on The Fund, visit Vogue.com.

Photo: Richard Guaty

“We proved that there was no agreement with the Council of Fashion Designers of America and the British Fashion Council regarding the three years 2012-2013-2014, and that, in any case, the postponement of a week for the dates of September 2012 was not on the table,” said Boselli.

Fashion week in Milan next year, Sept. 19th-25th, will directly conflict with New York and London —  Sept. 13th-20th and Sept. 21st-25th, respectively. With more than a bit of spite, Milan blames the CFDA for moving NYFW a week later than in previous years and if they were to follow suit, Italian designers wouldn’t be able to satisfy production needs.

Boselli also finds accusations that the Italians are not honoring its commitments as “an aggressive and arrogant stance towards the CNMI” since they had set their 2012 dates in March of last year.

DVF, in an open letter to the fashion community, reasserts the CFDA’s stance on the “Second Thursday” rule:

Editors, retailers and designers  like the consistency of every designer always showing on the same day of the week season after season. It makes it so much easier for everyone to plan and attend shows…We did not change from the agreement we reached of starting Fashion Season in New York on the same day every year…I also believe this conflict is a misunderstanding. I am convinced it will be resolved and that the agreement that was made 3 years ago at great cost and effort is valid and will be kept.

President of France’s Chambre Syndicale, Didier Grumbach, also thinks that this is all just one big misunderstanding, though he agrees with Boselli that the rule was only temporary: “We always said that it is impossible to plan anything beyond three years as you never know what kind of events might come up…The idea was always that we would meet up again once the three-year time period was up.”

If all this back and forth between everyone is confusing, matters got a whole lot messier when the CFDA and the BFC sent letters to Italian designers asking to help Boselli and Grumbach “stick to this agreement and maintain the current flow of dates.” Those designers, for their part, wholeheartedly support the CNMI.

For now, it looks like no one is backing down though von Furstenberg is still holding out hope for a compromise. [WWD, WWD -- sub req'd]

Photo: Richard Guaty

Photo: Trendland

Italian designers are forming a united front to decide on their own dates, out of the three following options: 1.) move to July; 2.) show before New York in September; or 3.) leave things the way they are, which could mean an overlap between Milan and London.

Condé Nast, for its part, is not having any of this. In a letter to Mario Boselli, head of the Italian Chamber of Fashion ”obtained”  – *cough* stolen *cough*– by WWD, CEO Jonathan Newhouse writes that Vogue editors “like the schedule the way it is presently organized. We at Condé Nast do not want the schedule to be changed. We very much oppose moving the Milan shows earlier so that they overlap or conflict with the London fashion shows — or with the New York fashion shows or those of any market.”

Newhouse then goes on to basically threaten a boycott by all Vogue editors — American, British, French and Italian — of Milan shows, stating matter-of-factly that “they will not under any circumstances abandon the London or New York shows if the Milan shows are moved earlier.”

The root of the conflict stems from a pact in 2008 when all four cities agreed to kick-off the fashion weeks on the second Thursday of February and September. Boselli claims that the agreement was only for three years while the CFDA‘s Steven Kolb and the British Fashion Council‘s Caroline Rush contend that it was indeed a permanent arrangement.

As for the fromage standing alone, Paris is expected to side with Milan. However, Didier Grumbach, head of the Chambre Syndicale, would rather come to a compromise and wants everyone to just chill the eff out: “When planning our schedules we have to factor in the time constraints of houses such as Jean Paul Gaultier or Givenchy that deliver couture, men’s and women’s shows with one designer. In any case, these things can’t be improvised. We have our locations. To move dates on venues like the Grand Palais cannot be improvised. Those dates are decided months and months in advance. If [anyone wants to] move dates for 2013, why not, we have the time to talk about it, to arrange it.”

Frankly, it’s a little odd that London is siding with New York considering the hubbub over model castings earlier this season, with London designers blaming New York for hogging all the best girls and the general feeling that LFW was being squeezed out. Now it seems Milan is feeling the crunch and are going to have to come to a decision soon or face the wrath of Wintour. [WWD, sub req'd]

Photo: Trendland

Sherry Lehmann Wine.  Arizona Iced Tea. Fiber One. No, these aren’t the contents of your grandmother’s kitchen cabinet. These are three of the big-name sponsors for New York’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, the biggest and least important of the four major Fashion Weeks. But is New York’s continued dwindling in importance a direct result of the less than fabulous coterie of sponsors, or is it the other way around? And who’s to blame?

The Hardy Gays are on the case!

The main culprit is Milk Studios, whose latest incarnation as MilkMade has stolen much of the luster from Lincoln Center. But whereas they compete for sponsors, MilkMade usually draws smaller shows…however, the Marc Jacobses and the Ralph Laurens don’t show at the Tents either. Rather, they show offsite, effectively spitting in the faces of IMG Models and CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg, who dutifully shows at Lincoln Center each season.

Why not show a concerted effort to make NYFW a juggernaut of influence and taste rather than a discombobulated hydra sprawling all over Manhattan with each head unaware of what the other is doing?

The Tents at Bryant Park were home to New York Fashion Week for seventeen years and the move to Lincoln Center was a controversial one that left many fashion followers scratching their thinning scalps. Aside from being convenient, Bryant Park’s proximity to the Garment District earned it the distinction as the fashion industry’s backyard. But as Fashion Week grew bigger and more and more sponsors came on board — from Dunkin Donuts to McDonald’s — designers became more and more disenfranchised. And Bryant Park became more and more annoyed. Now, the Tents at Lincoln Center resemble a circus rather than a legitimate gathering of professionals and creatives.

Which brings us to Fern Mallis, the lady behind those seventeen halcyon years. She helped organize the move of NYFW from warehouses and studios all over the city to one central location, but with the Tents’ dissolution everything is scattered once again. Just last year Mallis evacuated her role as Senior Vice President of IMG to reportedly start her own consulting business. Interesting timing…

Perhaps she felt disillusioned over what she hath wrought. Perhaps she struck a deal with Bryant Park to kick fashion week out of its lush lawn. Perhaps she poisoned  major designers against her former lover, one Diane von Furstenberg to gain revenge for breaking her heart when she married Barry Diller, effectively ruining Fashion Week and leaving Fiber One as one of the few legitimate sponsors who would touch MBFW with a ten-foot pole!

Cue lightning flash and dramatic music.

Perhaps this is just speculation and hearsay. Perhaps we don’t really care because as far as Mac and I — and the bottle of vodka we’ve already opened to celebrate — Absence of Mallis: The Case of the Lackluster Tents is closed.

Amanda‘s Bag, Rebecca Minkoff Morning After Bag

1. Tilly & William Armer

2. House keys/coke spoons

3. Wallet

4. Makeup bag with assorted contents: MAKE UP FOR EVER Duo Mat Powder Foundation, Clinique Line Smoothing Concealer, Benefit Cosmetics The POREfessional, Benefit Cosmetics Play Stick, Lancôme Le Crayon Khol Eyeliner, Dolce & Gabbana Lip Gloss, Benefit Cosmetics Big Beautiful Eyes, Smith’s Rosebud Salve, Shiseido Shimmering Rouge

5. Rebecca Minkoff Morning After Bag

6. Business card for Time Will Tell Watches

7. Other assorted business cards

8. M.Patmos cheat sheet

9. Norma Kamali 3D glasses and lookbook

10. Front row seat card for Anne Bowen

11. Sunglasses

12. KAUFMANFRANCO lookbook

13. Broken POS Apple Earphones

14. Hugo Naturals French Lavender Hand Sanitizer

15. Sephora makeup brushes

16. FashionIndie Mixtape Vol. 4

17. Hand creme from some gift bag

18. FashionIndie stickers

19. iPhone 4

20. Piazza Sempione tote

21. Macbook

22. Go green wireless phone charger

23. Concept Korea lookbook

24. Lemon-Lime Emergen-C

Marcus Wainwright, Gautum Dutta, David Neville, and Steven Kolb

Gautam Dutta, Vitaminwater Color Collection design winner attends the announcement of the Vitaminwater Color Collection winner at the Empire Hotel Rooftop on September 15, 2011 in New York City. Vitaminwater Announces Color Collection Winner Empire Hotel Rooftop New York, NY United States September 15, 2011 Photo by Jamie McCarthy/WireImage.com To license this image (125062520), contact WireImage.com

(L-R) Designer Marcus Wainright of Rag and Bone,Gautam Dutta, Vitaminwater Color Collection design winner,designer David Neville of Rag and Bone and Steven Kolb, CFDA CEO attend the announcement of the Vitaminwater Color Collection winner at the Empire Hotel Rooftop on September 15, 2011 in New York City. Vitaminwater Announces Color Collection Winner Empire Hotel Rooftop New York, NY United States September 15, 2011 Photo by Jamie McCarthy/WireImage.com To license this image (125062529), contact WireImage.com

The limited edition tees are $85 a pop and are sold through starbucksstore.com and select Nordstrom stores. Though the designers were given a fee to participate, according to CFDA executive director, Steven Kolb, the project gave them the chance “to give back a little bit which is in keeping with the spirit of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund.”

Not really sure to whom they’re giving back nor am I sure that the spirit of the Fashion Fund is about selling out hardcore, but for $85 I guess you can have your coffee and wear it too. [WWD]

Alexander Wang

Billy Reid (Mens)

Billy Reid (Womens)

Sophie Theallet

The CFDA celebrates its half centennial next year and is launching its “Stars of American Fashion” endowment drive. In an effort to raise $2.5 million, the CFDA is selling 50 stars at $50,000 a pop to designers, who will then personalize their star before it ends up on a special American flag.

28 designers have bought stars so far, including Tom Ford, Diane von Furstenberg, Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren, Carolina Herrera, Tommy Hilfiger, Oscar de la Renta and Vera Wang. [WWD]

Color Palette: From lead gray up through checked  heathers and worked nudes, down to to morning and evening rose.

Mood: A paratrooper has adventured to the edge, and in the end, it’s all coming up roses.

Statement Pieces: Windbreaking suits. Rose prints.

Front Row Name Drops: Steven Kolb, President of the CFDA.

Gossip: In a terribly sad turn of events, the Duckie designer Steven Cox’s mother just passed away this past week. It made for quite the emotional backstage well wishes.

Runway Music: “Work It” as written by Missy Elliot, and performed by some guy.

The escalation of Duckie Brown:

Started here:

Progressed here:

Ended here:

And it felt like this WWII paratrooper started here:

Went here:

And ended up living in a place like this, knowing the fruits of beautiful adventure come not without thorns.

- Karl Lagerfeld, clearly bored with the 3,000 other projects he’s juggling, is now designing glassware. [Architectural Digest]

- Victoria’s Secret angels Miranda Kerr, Adriana Lima, Chanel Iman and Doutzen Kroes open up on the cover of Elle magazine. [Fashion Gone Rogue]

- Tommy Hilfiger and the CFDA are sending 10 designers, including Prabal Gurung, Sophie Theallet, Billy Reid and Eddie Borgo to Paris to show their collections. [The Cut]

- Kanye West may or may not be joining those 10 lucky designers in the City of Lights come Paris Fashion Week. [Fashionista]

- I was fully on board for Missoni‘s Target diffusion line until they debuted this beyond creepy 25-foot “blogger.” [Styleite]

This comes on the spiked heels of last Fashion Week when it was came to light that DVF herself had used 15-year-old model Haley Clauson in her runway show. But fool DVF once, shame on you; fool her twice and you’re getting your underage ass carded at the door.

“The casting agents for the Diane von Furstenberg show will be doing this and we encourage others to do the same,” read the letter. All top model agencies have agreed not to send girls under 16 for the shows, while catwalkers Sara Ziff (Marilyn) and Lily Aldridge (IMG) will give up-and-coming girls from their respective agencies a good talking-to on Thursday as part of the CFDA Ambassador Program.

Well, you gotta respect the CFDA for trying, but I don’t see what the big deal is if a model is 15 or 16 or 82. If homegirl can walk down a runway in a 6-in heel and sell the garment, let her work! She probably has a starving village in some third world country — or New Jersey — to provide for. [WWD]

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Doug and Ben Burkman, the Burkman Bros

According to Bibu Mohapatra, who was part of the first Fashion Incubator class: “The program has helped me grow my business. The industry mentors are helping me tackle the affairs of a rapidly growing business, whether on production issues, collaborations, licensing or legal matters.”

The second season begins in May when the class of 2012-2014 moves into their Fashion Incubator studios at 209 West 38th Street. Designers will receive mentoring from industry professionals in addition to real estate space at below market value and for the first time the CFDA is partnering with New York University‘s Stern School of Business.

Through Stern Consulting Corps, designers will be matched up with MBA students who will help them “develop full financial statements, cash flow projections and investor-ready business plans.”

The lucky group of Incubatees are:

Antonio Azzuolo
Arielle Shapiro of Ari Dein
Benjamin and Doug Burkman of Burkman Brothers
Christian Coda
Emanuela Duca
Ricky Hendry and Marc Daniels of Isaora
Luis M. Fernandez of Number:Lab
Reece Solomon of Reece Hudson
Maayan Zilberman and Nikki Dekker of The Lake & Stars
Timo Weiland and Alan Eckstein of Timo Weiland [WWD]

Botkier knows better than to let this slide. The brand wrote on its blog: “We just discovered how our Botkier ‘Clyde’ was simply copied by Kardashian Kollection for Sears. They say imitation is the highest form of flattery but we don’t think so…”

They are also seeking help from the CFDA, who recently launched the You Can’t Fake Fashion campaign. It’s true, the only real difference between these bags is the Botkier (left) is chic and the Kardashian Kollection knockoff (right) is ugly as shi*t. Do you think imitation is the highest form of flattery or is this similarity just plain wrong?

LINK LOVE: Fashionista

PRABAL GURUNG

The color blocking intricacies and power shapes make me ever kick myself for missing his debut in The Tents for Fall 2010. But it was his ability to unravel that structure for this season that makes me even more excited for what’s next.

Fall 2010

A Brief History of Gurung: After studying fashion and working in production and design India, he designed under the tutelage of Manish Arora and Cynthia Rowley. He then left his position as Design Director for Bill Blass to start his own label, which launched in February 2009.