[i-D Magazine, Fall 2011]

LINK LOVE: TrendLand

• Haider Ackermann has announced he’s leaving his menswear line. His collection, which arrives after the New Year, will be his first and last – at least for now. ( Vogue ) • Ted Baker’s New York stores are known to offer a certain flavor. The company will… more

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]]> http://fashionindie.com/the-biz-haider-ackermann-calls-it-quits-ted-baker-introduces-themed-stores/feed/ 0 http://fashionindie.com/china-is-booming-and-so-are-the-top-eight-chinese-designers/ http://fashionindie.com/china-is-booming-and-so-are-the-top-eight-chinese-designers/#comments Thu, 07 Oct 2010 14:34:14 +0000 Amanda Gabriele http://fashionindie.com/?p=167322 Chinese designers are fighting for a place in China’s ever-evolving fashion landscape. We have eight of the most influential designers in China who are doing everything from dressing celebrities to winning national awards.

Qiu Hao – A graduate of St. Martin’s College in London and 2008’s winner of the prestigious Woolmark Prize, low-profile Qiu Hao has solidified his reputation in the fashion world with his avant-garde women’s apparel.

Xander Zhou – He describes the Xander Zhou man as “someone who likes to dress to impress, with an eye for detail, his aesthetic is dark, smart and seductive, with a punk gothic twist.” In 2008, Zhou was voted Designer of the Year by Esquire China.

Jenny Ji – Founder of ready-to-wear line La Vie, Jenny Ji’s design is influenced by Chinese traditions with a modern twist, which represents a lifestyle pursuit of many modern Chinese women.

Guo Pei - Her evening dresses are worned by celebrities. At the annual Central China Television (CCTV) New Year’s Gala, hosts and performers wear Guo’s designs.  She was also the designer behind the ceremonial dresses in the 2008 Beijing Olympics.

Lu Kun – Lu Kun saw his career take off after being selected the Best Young Designer of 2004 by the Shanghai Fashion Federation. Lu, on a mission to revamp the world’s misconceptions of Chinese fashion, presents a modern and fresh Chinese style that is designed for today’s trend conscious people.

Ma Ke – The fabulous designer behind eco design label Exception, Ma Ke aims to be environmentally stylish, using natural materials such as cotton and linen. As a result of her aesthetics and philosophy, Exception is at the forefront of 21st century Chinese fashion with a look that is fresh and modern.

Lu Min - Chief designer for Studio P.I., which is one of the most cutting-edge independent design labels in all of China with a growing popularity abroad. The company fuses edgy urban, blurring the lines of male and female. “We design clothes with a unisex style which come across feminist,” says Lu Min.

Judy Hua – With her boutiques in some of the most fashionable venues in Shanghai, this Chinese indie designer is a force in Shanghai’s independent design scene. Her haute couture dresses have captured the hearts of Shanghai socialites while her ready-to-wear line is often seen in fashion magazines.

LINK LOVE: Red Luxury

(small peach flower)

(small horses)

(peonies)

The inspiration comes from the art of Chinese paper-cutting.

‘Intricately cut and delicately pretty, Eyelashes are available in three styles, each infused with symbolic meaning rooted in Chinese culture:

Horses: symbolic of success
Peony: for happiness and good fortune
Peach blossom: a symbol of love and romance

Unique and expressive, Eyelashes come in two sizes: accentuate the corners of your eyes with the smaller lashes for a subtle daytime look, or make a statement with the full lashes for a special occasion.
‘

and they ‘re even beautifully packaged,
.
Yes yes and yes. I have two pairs to try, so look out for the photos.

LOVE

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Sting & The Police famously sang about their S.O.S. to the world, much like your skin is now likely singing its own cry for help after getting hit with a few intense (though hopefully sweet!) months of summer.

Lucky for you, treating yourself—and your dermis—just got a little easier today, Saturday, and Sunday, as ideeli brings you our first-ever dedicated Beauty Weekend: Summer Skin S.O.S.!

From anti-aging to sun protection to deep moisturization, we’ve got your most important skin and cosmetic needs covered. Our savvy lineup of restoratives includes Cosmesis Skincare, Crystal Peel, Elave, Enessa, and She Essential Beauty. Read on for the 411 on each all-star’s pedigree!

Goal: Fight fine lines, undereye circles, and puffiness with anti-oxidants
Cosmesis Skincare is dermatologist-formulated, and contains antioxidant tea extracts (including red tea, green tea, and white tea) designed to correct problems such as darkness and puffiness under the eyes, fine lines, etc. Shop now!

Goal: Slough away flakes and diminish discoloration
Crystal Peel’s microdermabrasion miracle-workers contain corundum crystals to exfoliate away dull, dry skin; improve skin texture; and even out skin tone. Shop now!

Goal: Protect against environmental damage without chemicals or preservatives
Made by Ovelle pharmaceuticals, which is based in Ireland, Elave is free of parabens, alcohol, sulfates, SLES/SLS, formaldehyde, dyes, pthalates, lanolin, fragrance, soap, and more. It’s also designed to combat the environmental factors that contribute to aging without any harmful ingredients or preservatives—perfect for sensitive skin. Shop now!

Goal: Balance a combination complexion with essential oils
Enessa’s aromatherapy skincare collection is made with essential oils (extracts of plants, flowers and herbs) that contain healthful nutrients and antiseptic properties. Celeb clients include Carmen Electra and Reese Witherspoon. Shop now!

Goal: Spoil your skin with organic ingredients, and reduce redness and inflammation in the process
Natural, organic, and based on Chinese medicine, She Essential Beauty is less focused on anti-aging and more focused on the importance of the mind-body connection, and taking care of yourself and your skin. Shop now!

LINK LOVE:ideeli's First-Ever Beauty Weekend!

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1900 Lady with a wagon
1900 Lady
1920 Chinese Caddies
1920 Musical Elephant
1930 Steamer Boat
1930 Porter
1935 Aeroplane
1935 Sea Plane
1940 Lilliputian Robot
1950 Boat with Couple
1950 Space Conqueror Robot
Photos from Louis Vuitton

LINK LOVE:Louis Vuitton” Trunks and Toys” Exhibit Manila July 15 – August 5, 2010

Two things I realize about this post: 1) caged heels have been big all summer and 2) I am stretching it slightly to lump #7 into the category of caged heels. Two things you should know in response 1) all of the above shoes are reasonably priced (score!) and 2) I'm in love with #7! 


In all seriousness, right now is the perfect time to pick up a pair (or two) of these if you haven't already. First of all, 5 out of 8 of the above shoes really are on sale and 3 out of 8 are under $100! Second, almost any of the above would make a great transition shoe into the fall because of the boot-like silhouette. 


PS – if you’re not familiar, I would highly recommend following either of the Nine West links below to Shoe Woo. I’m in love with this sight – it’s all about shoes on sale!

1. Joni, Nine West $39.99 (orig. $89)
2. Vicki Cage Platform Bootie, Rosegold $117 (orig. $168)
3. Belle, Sigerson Morrison $127.50 (orig. $255)
4. Pancho Cutout Peeptoe Sandals, TopShop $180
5. Val, Nine West Boutique 9 $159 (orig. $199) – sorry, only black is left
6. Lucky Strike Sandal, Chinese Laundry $71 (orig. $89.95)
7. Annton, Steve Madden $129
8. Olivia, Coconuts $65

LINK LOVE:Currently Browsing: Caged Heels

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I’ve always adored all types of paper lanterns, and I’ve been trying to find the perfect spot in my apartment to hang some. I’ve been going back and forth between over my head or in my workspace. This morning I saw this girl’s workspace and instantly fell in love. The use of the vintage Chinese lanterns makes her desk area look extra dreamy and filled with so much inspiration. I’d absolutely love to do something similar, but I think I’m still leaning towards hanging them over my bed. I guess we shall see. . .

LINK LOVE:Decorate Your Space: Paper Lanterns

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Remember back in the day when jelly shoes used to be all the rage? I’m pretty sure that when summertime hit I would toss my sneakers to the side and spend my days in those colorful plastic shoes. However, let’s be honest ladies they weren’t the most comfortable shoes to be running around in, but plastic footwear has come a long way from there. Melissa shoes really took the shoe world to the next level with her use of plastic and made me fall in love with those jelly styles all over again.

Recently I came across the cutest pair of jelly shoes from Chinese Laundry, The Sweet Caroline flats. They’re pretty simple but the addition of the suede bow makes them extra adorable and so perfect for any summer outfit. And the greatest thing about them? They’re on sale for suuuper cheap! I’m usually the girl who leans towards black shoes, but I think the yellow or green would be perfect for this type of shoe. What do you think? Do you love the jelly look too?

LINK LOVE:Plastic is Fantastic

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What if you were stopped on the street and someone offered to buy everything you owned? What would they find? Would the items on your person truly represent who you are…your beliefs, political stance, goals, religious affiliation, or values or would they find random inconsequential items that somehow found their way inside your pocket or purse.

Liu Chang’s exhibit, Buy Everything on You(2006-2008), offers such a snapshot into modern Chinese culture. The artist approached people on the streets and offered to buy everything on their person.

The exhibit consists of all of the items that Liu Chang purchased from individuals on the street placed on a white table. What was most striking was the prevalence of western culture that had been appropriated by the Gen-Y individuals Chang choose for this project.

There was a the usual proliferation of western cultural hallmarks such as denim jeans, cotton t-shirts, sneakers, and cell-phones, as well as certain items, like seaweed, personal tissues, and Chinese currency that serve as place markers and reminders that these individuals were not your average American suburban teens, but rather represented a new Chinese identity forged from a communist country whose current wealth is the result of capitalist enterprise.

A new China that is intent on capitalizing on consumers’ needs and desires for new things and supplying the West’s ever-growing demand for quick, cheap, and disposable fashions. Most interesting, is that Chang chose a canvas which showcases both contemporary consumer proclivities as well as outlines the social and personal forces that help us to define ourselves—our clothing.

These new millennial individuals have much more freedom of personal expression than their ancestors living under the dictate and rules of Mao Tse-tung. In this era of communist China, citizens were expected to dress in uniformity wearing clothing which showed no difference in rank or gender, consisting of a military-style tunic-like jacket, short trousers, and cloth-peaked caps. Dress was used to express a national rather than individual identity.

Today, a rapidly growing upper and middle class seeks to enhance its identity and quality of life with luxury products. Much of Chinese spending is driven by people’s desire to enhance their own social status and visibility by an association with famous brand names. In recent years, it has not been uncommon to see owners of a new suit conspicuously “forget” to remove the brand name and price tag that revealed the maker and high price of their new apparel.

Also fueling this demand for luxury products is that China now has an entire population of young, affluent males, called Little Emperors, who have grown up during the one-child only policy and thus, have been afforded many more liberties from their parents as only children.

Recognizing both China’s demand and ability to purchase these designer items, luxury brands, such as Prada, LVMH, and Armani, have and continue to scout new locations to open boutiques in China. Analysts predict that, as China’s average per capita income grows, it will become the world’s second-largest purchaser of luxury goods by 2015 and accounting for the sale of 29 percent of all luxury good sales worldwide(http://www.wikinvest.com/concept/Luxury_Consumption_in_China ).

Many more designer brands are looking toward the Far East as the demand for luxury products face sharp declines in Western Europe and the United States. In sharp contrast, the West is reworking the paradigm for luxury, which involves less the acquisition of high end products and instead centers on the luxury of intangibles (time, freedom, and personal satisfaction).

The recession has now forced us all to stop, pull out the things on our person, and truly question if we really are only the sum of our possessions.

Want More? Visit Fashion Speaks

LINKAGE: WeIndie