RUNWAY RUNDOWN Chanel Cruise 2009
Edited by admin
Chanel was first on the scene with the Resort collections this year, and as he does with everything in life and in fashion, Lagerfeld went all-out, especially on the sporty vintage Coco Homage looks, which lent a grounded vibe to some of the collection’s more outlandish and fanciful looks. Lagerfeld is smart because he knows what drew people to Chanel in the first place, and he realizes that he has to maintain those standards or else be damned–but he also recognizes the need for modernity and updates to the line, adding touches and flourishes that are pure Karl.
I absolutely adore these throwback looks–from the vagule masculine nautical elements, to the refined and ladylike bows and beads, this hearkens back to the classic Chanel we know and love, which is interesting for a Resort collection to be so extensive and so signature to the overall aesthetic. However, Lagerfeld ups the sex appeal ante with plenty of sheer fabrics and the kind of modern sensuality that Coco herself would have appreciated and approved of heartily–a sense of lusty naturalism paired with cosmopolitan style. With the flapper ‘dos and makeup, it’s hard not get that old-fashioned feel from this collection, but there’s enough of a turn-of-the-next-century sensibility with the styling and fit that keeps everything from feeling too costumey, gimmicky or throwback like a number of past Chanel collections have been. Of course I love the sheer blouses paired with fitted satin and metallic tweed, but I also appreciate the odes to the original Chanel looks with long clean lines, hints of masculinity, and that sense of freedom and openness that had been unheard of in women’s fashion prior to Coco’s arrival on the scene.
