- And speaking of former reality stars I didn’t know/care were still around, Paris Hilton on the cover of Vanity Fair Spain, ladies and gentlemen. [Huffington Post]

- Derek Lam has issued a cease-and-desist letter to Ivanka Trump claiming she “blatantly and intentionally copied” his Ayami wedge sandal. Well she’s a Trump, did you think she’d copy it with any degree of subtlety? [WWD]

- The Kardashians are suing Star Magazine for libel after the tabloid broke news that they were using child labor and sweatshops in China to manufacture their products. Turns out the head of the Institute for Global Labor and Human Rights was operating on hearsay and assumption. Did no one ever tell him that when you assume you make an ass out of Kim, Kourtney and Khloe — and they can do that fine all by themselves, thank you. [TMZ]

- For some over-privileged boys and girls, Christmas will come a few days late this year.  Due to technical issues of some sort, Barneys has had to cancel several online holiday orders. No, Virginia, there isn’t a Santa Claus because Santa’s IT elves are slacking this season. [Racked]

- Carine Roitfeld‘s had one hell of a year and she wants everyone at Vogue Paris to know it, especially that Emmanuelle Alt. Regarding the loss of Alt’s friendship after 10 years, Roitfeld had this to say: “Maybe this was not supposed to be a friendship. If I look at the balance, maybe I lost some people I thought were my friends, but I made so many new friends. I am very happy, in the end, because I am the winner.” Well, it’s nice to know she’s not bitter. [NYT]

Then under the buzzer, this happens. By referencing/recycling that eight-year-old cover and giving it their own spin, Alt and co. end the year on a decidedly high note.  Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott capture Moss in glam rock Ziggy Stardust regalia for FrenchVogue‘s December/January 2012 issue. Freak out, this moonage daydream’s so chic.

Photo: Design Scene

Donatella Versace herself crawled out of her crypt uncharacteristically before noon to pay a visit in London, decked out in a studded silk pink dress and studded black leather trench, her bleach blond hair casually swept over her oversized sunglasses. “I feel very emotional,” she told WWD. ”I really want to see how they are going to mix and pair the clothes, how they will wear them.”

Arriving at 8:30 am, when the line was already around the block, Donny also also expressed her approval of the quality of the garments that had produced such a clamor:  ”Do you see these studs? Usually, with low-cost clothing, they’re pressed on but these are real. And I only worked with pure materials – 100 percent silks and real leather.”

In Milan, a transportation strike did not deter Versace devotees from lining up while in Paris, the racks were picked clean within fifteen minutes. Some shoppers, however, were luckier than others as the night before, French Vogue‘s Emmanuelle Alt hosted a special preview shopping party for 1,000 winners of a contest the magazine had conducted.

Some 300 people lined up in Hong Kong for the store’s 8 am opening and in Berlin, lines started forming at 4 am.

In Shanghai, professional queuers waited on behalf of shoppers too smart and/or lazy to wait in line themselves. Mingling with migrant workers who were also paid as placeholders, a fight broke out amongst the predominately male stand-ins before doors opened. In fact, most of the customers in line were male, with some openly admitting they were there to snatch up as many covetable items as they could to re-sell online.

Besides that slight altercation, H&M’s well-organized, and well-documented, process has been rather smooth. But we’ll see once the doors open stateside this Saturday. [WWD]

On Coco Chanel:

“No one wanted to be told by an old lady that miniskirts and jeans weren’t chic. The result was that she lost her power and in the end no one cared about what she did.”

On Yves Saint Laurent:

“He is very middle-of-the-road French-very pied-noir, very provincial.”

On Anna Wintour:

“People I’m really friendly with have faxes. Anna Wintour has one. We speak via fax.”

On Emmanuelle Alt:

“Her style is her big shoulders, long legs, tight jeans, sleeves up to the elbow, one hip out. I personally like her.”

On Carine Roitfeld:

“It would have been difficult to have an ugly daughter.”

On Andy Warhol:

“I shouldn’t say this, but physically he was quite repulsive.”

On Heidi Klum:

“I don’t know Heidi Klum. She was never known in France. Claudia Schiffer also doesn’t know who she is.”

On Kate Moss:

Kate Moss has a lot of courage in the way she throws her life away in a very dangerous way, but that makes her so touching.”

On Jessica Simpson:

“Ecch. I’m not that impressed. I’m not that interested. I’m not that impressed.”

On ex-muse Inès de la Fressange:

“I wish her all the luck in the world, just so long as I don’t have to see her anymore or hear her spoken about.”

On Carla Bruni:

“She was one of the ten supermodels… She has a great education and speaks many languages. She’s perfect for the job of first lady. I even photographed her naked… but they were elegant and she had nothing against it. She couldn’t care less. She’s very cool like that. The photo is beautiful. I can show you the nude of her. I did it for Visionaire in 1998. ”

On Kate Middleton:

“For the royals, apparently the royal blood is not in demand any longer.”

On the Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen:

‘”They don’t have a strong enough image. They still have to make the movie that everybody remembers.”

On himself:

“I have no human feelings.” – Uncle Karl, will you adopt me?

On children:

“If I were interested in children, I would be a godfather.” – Well-played, sir. Well-played.

Link Love: Vogue UK / Oh No They Didn’t!  / Photo: Vogue UK

Role Call: Yolanda Sacristan, Spain (seated), Kirstie Clements, Australia (middle), Anaita Adajania, India (back), Christiane Arp, Germany (seated), Angelica Cheung, China (standing), Franca Sozzani, Italy (seated), Mitsuko Watanabe, Japan (standing), Anna Wintour, America (seated), Emmanuelle Alt, France (reclining), Alexandra Shulman, Britain (seated), Victoria Davydova, Russia (standing), Anna Harvey, representing Brazil and Greece (seated), Seda Domanic, Turkey (seated), Myung Hee Lee, Korea (seated), Rosalie Huang, Taiwan (standing), Eva Hughes, Mexico and Latin America (standing), Paula Mateus, Portugal (seated)

[NYT]

Editors, we salute you.

- Gemma Ward will step into some literary loafers when she co-stars in Baz Lurhman‘s Great Gatsby alongside Carey Mulligan, Leonardo DiCaprio and Tobey Maguire. [Refinery29]

- Emmanuelle Alt and Kate Moss love to do karaoke to Barbra Streisand‘s and Donna Summer‘s “No More Tears (Enough Is Enough).” The best part is I’m not even making that up. [Fashionologie]

Photo: Zimbio

They will be joined by Condé Nast International chairman, Jonathan Newhouse, to form Voguetron show support for the country’s ravaged economy and fashion industry. This show of support includes a gala dinner for fashion executives, celebrities and VIPS on November 4th and Anna will once again miss my birthday when the next day she and the other Vogue ladies attend the Tokyo FNO. [WWD]

The lone female in a sea of blue balls, Smurfette models, commercial-smiles and generally “gives” in Marc Jacobs, Lanvin, Dolce & Gabbana and Louis Vuitton.

She looks great and all, but frankly, I’m awaiting that true diva of the silver screen, Miss Piggy.

As an editor at Vogue Paris – hilarious timing by the way —  in this fall’s The Muppets, La Piggy is giving Carine/Emmanuelle a serious run for their money.

Of course, the only thing green Miss Piggy covets is her  longtime lilypad lover — and friend of Gaga – Kermit D. Frog. [Harper's Bazaar, MTV]

“We aren’t friends any more. I think it’s sad. When you give a lot of confidence in people and you don’t get it back you are a bit disappointed but it’s life. I move on.”

It is sad. All those years of nipple-bearing bravado gone down the drain. [Financial Times]

Kate hunches, emotes and bares a nipple or two (this is still Vogue Paris after all) in Dior Haute Couture, Armani Privé, Givenchy Haute Couture, Atelier Versace, Elie Saab Haute Couture and Valentino Haute Couture.

There’s nothing to get fashion pulses racing like a couple hundred thousand dollars in clothing on one of the greatest posers to ever stare meaningfully at nothing at all.

I first became aware of Emmanuelle Alt back in the early 90′s when she headed up Fashion in the forward thinking and very creative magazine “20 Ans” in France, meaning 20 Years Old.  I was struck by her avant garde approach to her styling and her eclectic choices of designers used in her editorials.  She took this rather tame magazine and turned it in to one of the most desirable magazines to be seen in and that applied to France and Europe! If you were in 20Ans you were IN. It was Young, Chic and Rebellious.

As a result of her uncanny capacity as a “Styling Chef” to put together an incredible menu of delicious eye candy that was often more suited for the pages of magazines like Numero, which had not yet come out or Italian VOGUE, it was obvious to me from the onset, that Emmanuelle Alt was destined to become an icon in the fashion industry.

Not to get in to a lengthy diatribe regarding her bio, from 20Ans, she moved on to Mixte Magazine and from there we all know that she went on to become the Fashion Director of VOGUE Paris.

I am giving you this short but sweet synopsis of her journey for one very important reason, her creativity has always been at the forefront of what she has accomplished.  The eyes of the Fashion community have been scrutinizing Emmanuelle very closely and will probably not let up for quite a while.  Why? Because there are many people out there in the world of the arts that love to see people fail.

I find that notion sad at best and pathetic at least.  It is way too early to judge what she is capable of accomplishing at this juncture in time.  Although she was the Fashion Director at VOGUE Paris for over 10 years, she was not at the helm and that is a totally different mind set to employ.

What I can say based on my knowledge of Emmanuelle Alts past and if that is any indication of her future, is that she will cast her die, leave her mark and have a major effect on the fashion industry.  Like Elizabeth (BABETH) Djian a luminary creative fashion engine and the Editor in Chief of NUMERO  Magazine (with whom I had the privilege to work with when she headed up Jill magazine), I am sure that Alt will also be instrumental in setting, rather than following trends in the very near future.

I can totally understand why her initial steps were to tread more lightly than if she had just come in from elsewhere.  What she is doing right now I believe is a very fine balancing act between necessity and her desired direction.  She just needs a bit more time. As she has already stated (and I am embellishing…creative license) her September 2011 Issue, will be her true immersion in to her identity and the direction of the magazine.

Emmanuelle Alt is representative of the hybrid approach taken by many artists in the Creative Business arena.  By hybrid, I wish to imply that for any artist to leave a mark on the body politic of the day, they must know how to strike a perfect balance between pragmatism and child like optimism. She seems to have accomplished this rather daunting task with panache. Emmanuelle Alt is the Modern French woman in all respects.  She is totally at ease with her persona which is refreshingly and naturally confident.

I believe that Emanuele Alt is probably doing some serious creative soul searching and looking both forward and backwards at the same time to find the essence of who she truly is and always will be…an Artist.

From: Benjamin Kanarek Blog

- After marrying David Lauren, son of iconic American designer Ralph Lauren, Lauren Bush will unfortunately not be known as Lauren Lauren. [Harper's Bazaar]

- A new documentary delves into the 50 year relationship between Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé, told through the objects they collected together. Despite not believing in the souls of the objects — let alone of other people — Bergé remains sentimental like any old glorious queen…by selling them off. [NYT]

- 3 months after having a baby, Miranda Kerr is back in a bikini for Have Faith Swimwear. Yeah, I’d put down that pot brownie if I were you….

- Libelula, Sophie Cranston‘s label that allegedly designed Kate Middleton‘s wedding dress, has released an official denial, thus perpetuating the greatest mystery of our times. [WWD]

- Thierry Mugler, the man behind the Mugler magic, is now going by the name of Manfred these days and is serving as the artistic director for drag queen, Joey Arias. Meanwhile, his eponymous label is working with another famed drag queen, Lady Gaga. [Style.com]

- The VERY 90s black sports bra and white sweatpant Britney Spears wore for a Japanese commercial years ago when she still had her soul are being auctioned off to benefit Japan. [The Cut]

Emmanuelle Alt © Garance Doré

Emmanuelle Alt is writing her own ticket for VOGUE Paris. I was not expecting a fundamental change in the Editorial Direction being that she has been the Fashion Director of the magazine for over ten years and collaborating with Carine Roitfeld. Thus the assumption that there would be little change from the status quo. However, the April 2011 issue of VOGUE Paris gives a clear new direction; bye bye porno chic, provocation, unjustified nudity, welcome softness, lifestyle, casual clothing. Emmanuelle’s approach is more consensual and obviously more commercial, which the fashion customer might find more accessible.

I want to show in French Vogue more and more a lot of clothes … It’s a different point of view, but nobody gave me a mission to change it or make it more commercial. she stressed in her WWD’s interview

Her vision of fashion is also conditioned by the choice of photographer she has decided to collaborate with and thus don’t expect any radical changes in those she has already worked with.

I want to keep the quality, the photographers we work with—David Sims, Mert and Marcus, Mario Testino, and Bruce Weber. I don’t think there should be radical changes. The magazine should still be chic and sophisticated. VOGUE.com interview

There has been one huge surprise however… The Return of Hans Feurer in VOGUE Paris is great news and a welcome change.

Hans Feurer ©DR

Hans Feurer’s style is easily recognizable:

• Outdoor shoots, long lenses, grainy film aspect, blurred background, sharp on the model (bokeh effect), sunrise or sunset light and often with the introduction of back light and flare.

This style was in “VOGUE” in the 70′s and 80′s and has come back in to fashion since certain internet bloggers started to photograph street fashion a few years ago. The styling often associated with his photography is ethnic, tribal in wildly natural spaces. However, he can express himself in a more urban environment as he did recently in French VOGUE with Supermodel Anja Rubik.

Anja Rubik by Hans Feurer for VOGUE Paris - April 2011

Feurer, a highly renowned fashion photographer in the 70s and 80s, is Swiss born and studied photography in London. In the ’60s, he became a photographer for British Vogue, Vogue Paris, US Vogue, Marie Claire, French Elle… He photographed most of the major supermodels from Claudia Schiffer to Laetitia Casta with Yasmeen Ghauri, Christy Turlington… He launched Amber Valletta in French Elle Magazine.

Who do you dream to photograph?

- I had the chance to work with the most beautiful women in the world from Pat Cleveland, Christy Turlington to Stephanie Seymour… Kate Moss is the only one that I haven’t photographed. Excerpt of his interview in the Contributor Section of French VOGUE April 2011.

I would add “so Far”… , but I have the feeling that with his statement in the Contributor Section of the magazine, this omission will be repaired quickly enough.

Some of his archives

In the early 60′s, he was assisted by French Photographer Patrick Demarchelier. Hans Feurer is also renowned for his collaboration with Kenzo for several of their Ad Campaigns in the 70′s and 80′s and was well known for his shooting of lingerie and swimsuits in a beach environment. In 1974, he directed the famous Pirelli Calendar.

Over the past few years Hans Feurer is back on track with magazines the likes of Numéro, I-D and VOGUE China, etc…

I really appreciate the fact that Emmanuelle Alt went for the original “Real Deal” photographer rather than one of the numerous copies amongst the younger fashion photographers emulating his and Eddy Kohli‘s style.

DIM Advertising © Eddy Kohli

Watch more photos from Hans Feurer in VOGUE Paris – April 2011

Here is the video of the 2005 edition of the International Fashion Photography Festival in Cannes, France with interviews of Hans Feurer, Jean-Daniel Lorieux, Benjamin Kanarek, amongst others.

Models Zuza and Jacqueline give a dead-on Roitfeld impression for Mateusz Stankiewicz‘s lens while stylist Pola Madej-Lubera positively nails Carine’s signature style.

What better way to pay tribute to an editor than a spread honoring and maybe even lampooning (just a little) her? Too bad Carine’s former mag didn’t think of this first.

Imagine, Gisele posed in raccoon eye make-up and pin-straight blonde hair with appropriately black roots and Daria Werbowy as Emmanuelle Alt. C’est la vie. But at least someone’s got a sense of humor: note the picture of Alt in the background and the cardboard cut-out of Tom Ford.

GENIUS!

Photos: Design Scene

The main difference between the spreads is the presence of Amber’s son, Auden, thus confirming the American belief that children ruin your life and leave you a husk of a human being. The Italians, the story tells me, romp around their empty home with bigger hair and more dramatic eye make-up, struggling with their addiction to wine and moody cinema.

Steven Klein brings Amber’s desperation to light for U.S. Vogue with the help of stylist Camilla Nickerson, while her ten-year-old son proves the fierce fruit does not fall far from the supermodel tree. Across the pond, Craig McDean lenses Amber solo, benefiting from Edward Enninful‘s routinely amazing styling.

The two spreads are different and strong enough to stand on their own, but with Gisele and Britt Maren appearing in the same dress on the covers of Vogue Paris and Germany, respectively, I can’t help but wonder…

Are there too many Vogues?

I mean, in honesty, I can do with only the following five: Vogue Italia (the best), Vogue Paris (giving Alt a chance), Vogue Nippon (amazing editorials), U.S. Vogue (the glue that holds the family together) and Vogue Russia (because of this).

The others can shutter for all I care. And yes, I am referring to British Vogue — I don’t really care for it, despite Kate Winslet‘s recent stunner of a cover.

Anyway, check out the editorials below, try to see any comparisons and catch the rest of the photos on Lookbooks!

Photos: Fashiontography

- Well this makes for an awkward way to come out of the gate; Emmanuelle Alt’s first cover uses the same Dolce & Gabbana dress as a February Vogue España cover featuring Constance Jablonski and an April Vogue Germany cover with Britt Maren. Do you hear that? That’s the sound of Carine Roitfeld cackling over a 25-year old bottle of Chardonnay from her chateau in the French countryside.[Fashionista]

- Las Vegas is placing all of its bets on quirky Canadian songbird, Celine Dion, amidst massive debt, abandoned casino projects and 13% unemployment. Finally, other people are starting to see Celine as I’ve seen her for a decade of song: a savior. [Associated Press]

- Rick Genest, aka Zombie Boy aka Rico stars in Mugler Mens Fall 2011 campaign shot by Mariano Vivanco. And like Genest himself, the ads strike the right balance between creepy hot and just plain old creepy. [Nicola Formichetti's Blog!!]

- The continued downfall of American civilization as manifested in a human being, Nicole ‘Snooki’ Polizzi, took it to the square circle to introduce to some unlucky female…(?) wrestlers her own patented brand of smackdown. Admittedly, it was thrilling seeing the 36-inch guidette go to town in a leopard-print jacket and wedged boot and hopefully her wardrobe at Wrestlemania XXVII will be as inappropriate/awesome. [Refinery29]

- Well, I think we can all agree that despite the thousands of dead, missing and misplaced people, the threat of nuclear Armageddon and the collapse of Japan’s economy, the biggest tragedy to come out of the Land of the Rising Sun is the cancellation of Japan Fashion Week. Crises like this really put things into perspective. [The Cut]

- ESPN Magazine is stepping up its style game with the hire of their first fashion editor, Samantha Rubin. The reason behind the move: apparently readers want to know what their favorite athletes are wearing and how to wear it. Now we can all learn where to get and how to wear size 15 Air Jordans and XXXXL pinstripe suits. [WWD]

- Lady Gaga has not only raised the bar for shutting shit down, she’s also raised a ton of money for Japan…to the tune of $250 K through sales of her “We Pray for Japan” wristband. Put your paws up…now wrap them in this wristband. [Oh No They Didn't!]

- Rumor has it Carine Roitfeld was banned from Paris Fashion Week after Condé Nast big-wig Jonathan Newhouse fired off a letter asking designers not to invite the ex-editrix as it “might send a confusing message.” In other news, Emmanuelle Alt recently graduated from an at-home signature forgery class. [Hint]

- Speaking of Alt, her first cover of Vogue Paris has hit the interwebs. Gisele looks great as usual, but this could easily be American Vogue and I could easily fall asleep looking at it. [Models.com]

- And speaking of American Vogue covers I hate, ladies and gentlewomen, Rihanna. [Twitter]

- I’m as excited for the Royal Wedding as the next gal, but some people are seriously starting to OD. [Beautylish]

- One of John Galliano‘s “victims” feels kind of bad that he might have ruined the designer’s career and doesn’t think he’s really a racist or anti-Semite. Thanks for your swift action regarding this matter. [Huffington Post]

- Japan really can’t catch a  break today. [BBC]

- And in equally tragic news, Jessica Biel and Justin Timberlake have called it a day on their relationship. Personally, I think J-Tims looks better without a beard. [People]

-But as usual, Charlie Sheen provides the light at the end of the tunnel. Reports of the actor/hooker connoisseur’s death have been grossly exaggerated…by a virus spreading through Facebook. Now if this were the only the first time that we caught something contagious after poking Charlie Sheen…. [HuffPo]

Erez works with one of fashion’s most visionary and relevant agencies, Kate Ryan. His style blends striking high fashion concepts with subtle artistic undertones. One has only to catch sight of Erez’s photography to realize his deep passion for his profession.

Recently Fashion Indie was awarded the chance to ask Erez about his incredible images and views on the industry. Here’s what the multimedia artist had to say.

Who or what influenced and shaped your photography style?

I began shooting at 16. As a teen growing up in Israel, I was always interested in magazines like The Face. Nick Knight and Javier Vallhonrat were photographers I admired.

The turning-point came when I moved to Paris to shoot for magazines like l’Uomo Vogue, Detour and 20 ans (of which Emmanuelle Alt, today editor-in-chief of Vogue Paris, was fashion director).

You can still see traces of that influence in my work as a director and multi-media artist. For example I did a show at the International Fashion Festival in Japan, “Master Minds of Mode,” which was all about painting my subjects with lighting.

So many of your portrait shots not only convey a message, but have an artistic nature infused within. What’s involved in the creative process to capture your photos?

To each portrait shoot I bring 100% of my energy. I aim to capture the best of each subject, looking from the perspective of a warm heart with a cinematic sensibility. I’m only satisfied when magic happens on set, and have been fortunate to work with an amazingly talented team.

I spent almost three years shooting images for my first book “My Favorite T-Shirt,” which explores the lives of artists in New York. It was a fulfilling journey for me as an artist, very pure and honest – no digital, no retouching and no cropping. It felt like I was seeing everything for the first time.

I’m amazed with how you use location and setting to create a real depth in so many of your images. What are some secrets to making your surroundings work for you and not against you?

Some places really inspire me, such as Azerbaijan where I shot a story for Baku. You can see how we enjoyed shooting this in a behind-the-scenes video we made. I enjoy integrating subject and setting, creating a synthesis. An inspiring location helps create dynamism, movement and high energy, as well as the interaction of textures, colors and light. Trying to do justice to the setting, you have to make sure you’re not distracted from your subject.

What advice might you have for other young photographers who would like to achieve the same level you’re at?

Keep going. There are so many others in the field now, but you have to focus on ensuring that the amount of love you have for the craft shows up in the images. Trust yourself!

What’s your favorite camera to use on a fashion photography shoot?

I use Hasselblad with p+30, P45, Canon 5D Mark2 and MAMYA RZ. It all depends on the project.

See the rest of the interview + more pics on LookBooks.

Dolce and Gabbana.

Wait, you mean the brand that was the most frequently used on the cover of Vogue in 2010? Not that we’re complaining much, but it’s a little predictable, and not quite… French.

And guess who’s photographing? Inez van Lamsweerde et Vinoodh Matadin. Again, not complaining, but they too were the most frequently used photographers for Vogue covers in 2010.

Emmanuelle, please take these reigns you’ve earned, and steer. We love what’s been done, but please introduce us to something new.

Just a reminder of some Dolce and Gabbana covers we’ve seen this year:

And a bit of déjà vu: we’ve already seen Gisele in Dolce and Gabbana on the cover of Vogue back in September of 2001.

Link Love: Fashionista

On her tenure at Vogue Paris:

It took a little time, because when I came to Vogue ten years ago, it was not the Vogue it is today. Joan Juliet Buck, who I was working for as a freelancer, was more a journalist editor than a fashion editor, so it was focused more on the text and writers and not so much on fashion. And me, I come with all my fashion ideas, but it was very difficult at the beginning, because a lot of photographers, it’s easy to forget, didn’t want to work for the magazine…Each time we try to be better and better, and it takes almost ten years to be a team, and now I think the best team is there. It’s very sad to leave your family after ten years…But I think the times are changing, too. I said to Jonathan [Newhouse, chairman of Condé Nast International], when I can make it ten, it will be great for me. And I think in the last [period] that maybe I got less freedom than I got before, so I think it was just the right time for me to leave, because I want to enjoy and do everything that I want to do. And Jonathan was an amazing boss, because he let me do such crazy things. To put a black transsexual with a beard and high heels on the cover? I don’t think a lot of presidents will let you do that. I think it was fun to look at French Vogue. Each month was a new happening. But I think now they want to change a bit. Even the French president [Xavier Romatet, of Condé Nast France] now wants something a bit [pauses]…sweeter I would say, and if I cannot have a lot of fun, then I prefer to do something else.

…I think the French president—maybe not Jonathan—but the French president thinks he wants something more [pauses]…I won’t say I’m too provocative; it’s my way of expressing myself, you know. They won’t change everything, because when something has been so [successful], it would be stupid to change it. Maybe they want [things] a bit more easy for everyone. It’s true, I’m always pushing. I like that. I’ve always been provocative, but what I’m going to do next is a new way of provocation. I did for many years porno chic. I was the queen of porno chic. And I will do something totally different now.

On being “fired” because of the Tom Ford issue:

No, that’s wrong…I think it was a controversial issue, but they were all controversial issues. I told you, at the end of this decade, I could see that the new president in France wanted to change the direction of the magazine. I’m sure the Tom Ford issue is not the way they’re heading in the next few years, but it was not because of the Tom Ford issue. I was not fired, because if I was fired, it would not be a very nice ending. It was a discussion between Jonathan and myself, and he never fired me…I know I did a good job. I know the March issue is a record in terms of advertising. So I’m not leaving a sad magazine, an empty magazine. I’m leaving a magazine that has an epic stop. I’m very happy about that…I think it’s sad because when I did this Tom Ford issue…we put a lot of little girls with makeup, a lot of jewelry. It was for Christmas and it’s nothing compared to what Guy Bourdin did 20 years ago or what I saw in all the magazines ten years ago…but when you put kids, you always know it’s going to be a problem. There was no nudity, it was always a T-shirt under the evening dress, but you know, people see what they want…These are the risques du métier.

On the “Tom Ford” issue:

I’m not going to work with Tom. That was ten years ago. If I look back at my CV, when I was freelance, I worked mostly ten years with Tom Ford at Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent. And after [that] I stopped and it was ten years at French Vogue. Now it’s a new decade and I don’t want to be doing what I was doing ten years ago. Of course, Tom is my friend and if he asks me what I think, I will answer. But I will not go and stay one week before the show and work with him.

On modeling in Tom’s next show:

He didn’t ask me.

On the Balenciaga controversy:

Oh, there are a lot of designers I admire. There’s a long list. In the young generation, of course I love Nicolas Ghesquière. There were these problems with Balenciaga last season, but I know him since the beginning. I was one of the biggest supporters of Nicolas, and I just saw him for a cup of tea and now everything is fine again between Nicolas and me.

…Sometimes people like to put oil on the fire, to make something bigger, and afterwards with blogs and the Internet, things [get out of] proportion. But now it’s gone back like before and I’m very happy because I think he’s full of talent.

On her relationship with Emmanuelle Alt:

It’s true that we are in not in the best relations, [but] I don’t want to talk about it, to be honest.

On the public’s perception of her:

People sometimes think I’m very cold, but I’m not. I’m a very shy person. When people know me, I’m not cold; I’m quite a nice person. It’s difficult as the editor of a magazine to be totally yourself because you’re a bit frightened. Now I think I go back where I was ten years ago, so I get younger, which is always good. Younger with dreams and younger with energy. Younger with risk, because now it will be my own risk; it won’t be Vogue’s risk. Always I will be a risky woman. I will keep this legend.

Link Love: Style.com

The story mused over her beginnings, from the 90s assistantship at French Elle, Fashion Editor jobs at 20 Ans and Mixte, then her decade at French Vogue. They compared soundbites from Emmanuelle to quotes from Carine – it’s a little bit of who said it best. Though the Daily promises to answer under the radar questions, they were never really able to ask them. It’s mostly research and speculation. It was entertaining, but I’d really love the actual lowdown of what’s going on in her mind and at French Vogue.

Photo by Jessica Lapidos

On Coco Chanel:

“No one wanted to be told by an old lady that miniskirts and jeans weren’t chic. The result was that she lost her power and in the end no one cared about what she did.”

On Yves Saint Laurent:

“He is very middle-of-the-road French-very pied-noir, very provincial.”

On Anna Wintour:

“People I’m really friendly with have faxes. Anna Wintour has one. We speak via fax.”

On Emmanuelle Alt:

””Her style is her big shoulders, long legs, tight jeans, sleeves up to the elbow, one hip out. I personally like her.”

On Andy Warhol:

“I shouldn’t say this, but physically he was quite repulsive.”

On Heidi Klum:

“I don’t know Heidi Klum. She was never known in France. Claudia Schiffer also doesn’t know who she is.”

On Kate Moss:

Kate Moss has a lot of courage in the way she throws her life away in a very dangerous way, but that makes her so touching.”

On Jessica Simpson:

“Ecch. I’m not that impressed. I’m not that interested. I’m not that impressed.”

On ex-muse Inès de la Fressange:

“I wish her all the luck in the world, just so long as I don’t have to see her anymore or hear her spoken about.”

On Carla Bruni:

“She was one of the ten supermodels… She has a great education and speaks many languages. She’s perfect for the job of first lady. I even photographed her naked… but they were elegant and she had nothing against it. She couldn’t care less. She’s very cool like that. The photo is beautiful. I can show you the nude of her. I did it for Visionaire in 1998. ”

On Kate Middleton:

“For the royals, apparently the royal blood is not in demand any longer.”

On the Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen:

‘”They don’t have a strong enough image. They still have to make the movie that everybody remembers.”

On Pete Doherty:

“Gone. His music – the look – is over now. There’s nothing to think about it. It is too late.”

On himself:

“I have no human feelings.” – Uncle Karl, will you adopt me?

On children:

“If I were interested in children, I would be a godfather.” – Well-played, sir. Well-played.

Link Love: Vogue UK / Oh No They Didn’t!  / Photo: Vogue UK

Don’t get me wrong, I LOVE Gisele. But for your first issue as the Editor-in-Chief of Vogue Paris, don’t you want someone a little newer, fresher and maybe a touch controversial? We know Gisele is amazing, tell us something different. Set the stage for a fresh reign, don’t make excuses that your new direction is yet to come. What do you indies think of her choice?

LINK LOVE: Fashionology

The following is an imaginary conversation between Anna Wintour and Kristen Stewart as she shoots the February Vogue cover.

Anna: Kristen! Welcome to Vogue! Don’t be scared darling, I don’t bite — my second assistant does that for me. Kidding…except, not really.

Link Love: Modelinia

This time Gaultier is playing with shoulder volume. A bra with built-in shoulder shapers will give you the instant Emmanuelle Alt signature, even in a shlump shouldered jacket. My biggest hope – no, not hope, more like a prayer – is for a Blonde Ambition world tour Rocket Cone Bra flashback. The structured line will be out in the UK January 17th in Harrods.

Link Love: Full Frontal Fashion

Emmanuelle has a practical way of dress. Her minimalist leanings often put her in jeans, tee, bold shouldered jackets, and black boots. The effect is long, lean and handsome. She holds an air of Rive Gauche bohème; a refined grunge. She sticks to her basics at the base, revolving punch in the outer layers.

Across the Rive, Carine Roitfeld lives in chic little dresses, scant a pant in sight. She tries it all and all works on her. She breathes an aura of propriety, even in a lace top and hello bra. She’s a sleek trend adventurer, a chameleon, who suits herself quite well in the fine Editor’s uniform (á la the fourth look below).

Emmanuelle has been the Fashion Director for as long as Carine was EIC, that’s a decade of work together. Will Alt’s pared down edge influence Vogue to her stylistic point of view as she sees for herself? Or will she continue to style as she did under Roitfeld’s more progressive vision? We shall wait with bated breath for Alt’s first issue to find out.

The Kaiser went on to croak Alt’s praises: “She’s a handsome French woman. She has a style, but is it enough to make a whole magazine?”

Well, it’s a valid question, one that Lagerfeld will surely answer in his usual straight-forward way, though he said he would “reserve judgement” until she spearheaded a few issues.

Karl Lagerfeld is great at many things, but reserving judgement?

How much longer do we have to wait before he declares French Vogue officially dead, has Baptiste Giabiconi steel away in the night to behead Emmanuelle Alt and use her Swarovski crystal-encrusted skull as the centerpiece for one of  Chanel‘s Resort collections?

Seriously, I’m taking bets.

Link Love: WWD

LINK LOVE: Humor Chic

Romatet, it seems, wants to follow American Vogue‘s  example by expanding beyond fashion and taking advantage of new technology to utilize the iPhone and iPad as well as developing a new website.

He explained:

“What I want is for Vogue Paris to be very open, that it will be a magazine where all of the sensibilities can express themselves, where all styles can exist. A magazine where everyone can express themselves because they have talent. Emmanuelle Alt is capable of opening the magazine to that.”

Alt is game for the challenge, saying that she “will task [herself] with developing the incredible potential of Vogue Paris.”

What do you think of Roitfeld’s replacement and French Vogue‘s new direction? Is the end of an era?

Link Love: Huffington Post

Racked‘s “very well-placed” sources, claim:

[T]he magazine’s parent company was unhappy with all the bad press surrounding Roitfeld’s alleged pay-for-play scandals…demanding huge sums of money for extracurricular consulting gigs and the enormous, public embarrassment of being banned from Balenciaga last season for abusing her position at Vogue. In the latter case, Roitfeld allegedly borrowed Balenciaga preview pieces and sent them to her client, Max Mara, to copy…”

Then there’s that other scandal with ANDAM winner Hakaan:

“An angry anonymous letter, which was circulated among French media this week, asked “how a Turkish designer out of nowhere books Natalia Vodianova, Maria Carla Boscono, Lara Stone or Natasha Poly for his show—models asking €15.000 min per show, and who aren’t really famous for their charity!”

Roitfeld also made an unprecedented move by showing up to Hakaan’s first show with Kate Moss in tow. And then there’s that other scandal involving LVMH Chairman and CEO Bernard Arnault, who “allegedly threatened Conde Nast International Chairman Jonathan Newhouse with the removal of all LVMH ads from the next issue of” French Vogue after the last issue (edited by Tom Ford) apparently didn’t contain enough LVMH ad credits and exercised “poor taste” in this editorial.

As for rumors that Carine will be working with Ford on his new womenswear line, Ford recently told the New York Times Cathy Horyn:

“Carine and I have no plans to work together at the moment, and it is nothing that we have even discussed, but of course I think she is brilliant and we are close friends so who knows about the future.”

Well, I guess Heidi Klum‘s been right all along. In fashion one day you’re Anna Wintour and the next, you’re …Carine Roitfeld. It will be interesting to see how this story unfolds, who will succeed Carine (Emmanuelle Alt is apparently not an option) and where Carine lands, besides inevitably on her stilettoed feet.

LINK LOVE: Racked

Photography:  Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin

Art Directors:  Carine Roitfeld, Emmanuelle Alt and Camilla Nickerson

Models:   Bridget Hall, Dree Hemingway, Freja Beha Erichsen, Raquel Zimmermann, Anna de Rijk, Lara Stone, Isabeli Fontana, Tanga Moreau, Naomi Campbell, Talisa Soto and Daria Werbowy

Styled by Emmanuelle Alt, this shoot reminds us why Raquel is one of the most demanded models in the industry.

Find more photos like this on CULT

LINK LOVE

“I have a dress-up chest at home. I love to create this fantasy kind of thing.”
-Kate Moss

Fashion Icon (yeah, I said it.) Kate Moss graces the cover of French Vogue Oct 09 proving not only does she still have it, she gets better with time… Shot by esteemed photography duo Inez and Vinoodh and styled by Emmanuelle Alt, Kate looks amazing. I’m not sure who was responsible for hair and makeup but they did a fabulous job… I especially like that she sports a personal favorite of mine, Balmain, in some of the black and white shots.

Images: Kate Moss For French Vogue 09

Written on Cult Indie

1. Daisy Lowe at Chanel in London
2. Carine Roitfeld, Karl Lagerfeld and Emmanuelle Alt
3. Alexis Roche, Estelle Lefebure, Serge Brunschwig
4. Letizia Moratti and Donatella at the Versace store in Via Montenapoleone, Milan
5. Richard Nicoll and Yasmin Sewell at Liberty
6. Vogue presentation at Topshop
7. Philip Green at Topshop
8. Jasmine Guinness at Burberry
9. Pixie Geldof and Daisy Lowe
10. Justin Portman and Natalia Vodianova
11. Mario Testino and Marie Helvin at Burberry
12. Lara Stone and Anja Rubik at Burberry
13. Claudia Schiffer and Jacquetta Wheeler
14. Alexandra Shulman and Christopher Bailey at Burberry
15. Bay Garnett at Burberry
16. W. Brown at Gap in London
17. India Hicks at Burberry
18. Laura Bailey at Burberry
19. W. Brown performing at the Gap in London
20. Carine Roitfeld and Marisa Berenson at Dior
21. Mob Scene at Dior
22. Emma de Caunes at Armani
23. Candy at Manoush
24. In front of Manoush
25. Buying at Vuitton
26. Eva Cavalli at the Roberto Cavalli store in Milan
27. Outside Dirk Bikkernberg’s store in Via Mazoni
28. Outisde the Tods store in Via Della Spiga
29. Customers at the Missoni store in Via Sant’Andrea
30. Outside the Versace store
31. In front of the Chantecler store in Milan
32. Angela Missoni at the Missoni store
33. Bartenders at the Giorgio Armani Store
34. Roberta Armani, Letizia Moratti, Giorgio Armani, Franca Sozzani and Eva Herzigova
35. Shopping at Hermes in Berlin
36. Designer Gabriele Strehle at Strenesse in Quartier 206 in Berlin
37. A smoky spread at Boss in Berlin
38. DJ Hell’s Angel at YSL in Berlin
39. Waiting to get into Galeries Lafayette in Berlin
40. Vogue Germany’s Christine Arp, Berlin mayor Klaus Wowreitt and KaDeWe’s manager Ursula Vierkotter
41. KaDeWe’s luxury Blvd. in Berlin
42. Sahling at Galeries Lafayette in Berlin
43. Provocation’s agent at Galeries Lafayette in Berlin
44. Berliner Luft at KaDeWe

(WWD)

LINK LOVE: http://www.cultindie.com/xn/detail/2394740:BlogPost:72543

Shot by Mario Sorrenti and Styled by Emmanuelle Alt.

LINKAGE: like brother and sister.

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