The Initiative consists of the following six points:

1. We will not knowingly work with models under the age of 16 or who appear to have an eating
disorder. We will work with models who, in our view, are healthy and help to promote a healthy
body image.

2. We will ask agents not to knowingly send us underage girls and casting directors to check IDs
when casting shoots, shows and campaigns.

3. We will help to structure mentoring programmes where more mature models are able to give
advice and guidance to younger girls, and we will help to raise industry-wide awareness through
education, as has been integral to the Council of Fashion Designers of America Health Initiative.

4. We will encourage producers to create healthy backstage working conditions, including healthy
food options and a respect for privacy. We will encourage casting agents not to keep models
unreasonably late.

5. We encourage designers to consider the consequences of unrealistically small sample sizes of
their clothing, which limits the range of women who can be photographed in their clothes, and
encourages the use of extremely thin models.

6. We will be ambassadors for the message of healthy body image.

Jonathan Newhouse, chairman of Condé Nast International, emphasized the importance of The Health Initiative, saying, “Vogue believes that good health is beautiful. Vogue editors around the world want the magazines to reflect their commitment to the health of the models who appear on the pages and the wellbeing of their readers.” [Fashion Foie Gras]

Lagerfeld, left, and Saint Laurent, center

Way before the advent of the Project Runways (and its alleged All-Stars), the The Fashion Shows and the Fashion Stars, there was one illustrious design competition that actually set out to do what those shows only dream of doing: producing a design superstar. In 1955, the Australian Wool Industry‘s International Wool Secretariat prize produced two, Lagerfed and Saint Laurent. Lagerfeld won in the coats category, Saint Laurent in the dresses category, and the rest is history.

A thousand years later, AWI wants to make wool hip again(?) and in the process give a  few lucky designers a couple thousand bucks. AWI will hold regional design contests in China, Australia, India, Italy, the UK and France, with each finalist receiving cash money towards their next collection and a chance to participate in the international final.

The international finalist will be crowned in March 2013 and will receive $100,000 to underwrite their next fashion show, and their collections will be sold in Harvey Nichols in the UK, Lane Crawford in China, Eickhoff in Germany and Bergdorf Goodman in the US.

The US judging will take place on July 9 in New York with a panel of judges that includes CFDA CEO Steven Kolb, Narciso Rodriguez and T: The New York Times Style Magazine EIC Sally Singer. The international judging will he held in September during London Fashion Week where Diane von Fursteberg and Vogue Italia editrix Franca Sozzani will be among the judges. Designers are required to submit sketches of a six-piece merino wool capsule collection with one outfit fully produced.

Kolb has said that the CFDA has already received some 25 applications, not just from emerging designers but also brands “who could use a boost.” Although we’re not talking about the Calvin Kleins but rather small business owners. So to paraphrase another famous fashion competition,  ”Designers, start your engines…and may the best merino…WIN!” [WWD, sub req'd]

Lagerfeld, left, and Saint Laurent, center

In a post on the magazine’s website, readers are urged to :

Create a blog – or, if you already have one, create a special section inside it – where you can discuss eating disorders, in which you can try to help and support young people suffering from these disorders, anorexia and bulimia, seeking alternatives or practical advice to support them.

Bloggers are then advised to leave their name, city and a link to their blog as well as a “phrase that represents you as authors” in the comments section, which Vogue Italia will use to create a global directory. The aim is to provide a support system for those suffering from eating disorders and to discredit the proliferation of pro-ana and pro-mia sites around the world.

What do you think of this initiative and should all bloggers feel inspired to participate?

- And speaking of makeovers, Burger King might be onto something with this stunner. [Buzzfeed]

- Vogue Italia‘s April cover celebrates prom looks and…masks. [Fashion Gone Rogue]

- Vogue Italia‘s EIC Franca Sozzani, it turns out, didn’t put a ring on it and is still a single lady. [Vogue Italia]

- While gyrating on American Idol last night, Nicki Minaj almost titted on ‘em. [Styleite]

- Christy Turlington is a mustachioed dream on the cover of Tatler. [The Cut]

- ABC thinks Madonna should cover up in her  new commercial for her “Truth or Dare” fragrance even if it means making her bra digitally bigger. Oh, they also want less writhing around. Because ABC’s never heard of or seen anything Madonna’s ever done. [Huff Po]

- Franca Sozzani may or may not be married. Either way, she probably doesn’t care whether you think she is or not. [Huff Po]

- I wanna say something. I’m gonna put it out there. If you like it, you can take it, if you don’t, send it right back: Anchorman 2. [Deadline]

- Time Magazine has opened up the polls for its annual Time 100 list where you can vote on who are the most influential people in the entire world. People like Jessica Simpson, Ashton Kutcher and LMFAO. No one said it was a good influence. [Time]

- Sears continues its Photoshop of Horrific proportions with the Kardashians and their new swimsuit line. Meanwhile, poor Khloe’s in a caftan, probably because it was easier than actually slapping her in the face.  [Fashionista]

- Dolce & Gabbana are ready for their close-up, Mr. Allen. The design duo will make a cameo in Woody Allen‘s new film, To Rome with Love. [Telegraph]

- Gucci and Guess have finally taken their three-year copyright battle to court where Guess’ own lawyer routinely insults his client’s quality and lack of class: “Guess doesn’t slap a house name on a product, Guess screams its name, it surrounds you…Gucci uses leather, Guess uses plastic, that’s why it costs 100 bucks.” That kind of defense you can’t buy. [WWD, sub req'd]

A forum dedicated to bashing the “nigger animal,” the hair shows are a source of ridicule and disgusting,  ignorant, racist ramblings from people who have yet to realize we live in a global society and yearn for the days of segregation, or even slavery. That hatred and just plain dumbass bullshit like this exists in this day and age is a sad commentary on the state of America.

But take a look at the people pictured in those posts. There’s a pride in their expression and a comfort in their bearing that defies the inane criticism of a few narrowminded idiots. Hair shows are a celebration of black culture and not everyone understands it — not even some black people. Yet in paying homage to that celebration, Vogue Italia was in turn celebrating black culture; its “extravagance”, as Franca Sozzani puts it, and its creativity.

With that said, could they have used some more black/ethnically-diverse models? Sure, but if it was an all black spread, would it be perceived as being any less “racist”? I suppose the opposite would hold true. Then Sozzani and co. would be accused of exploiting black models.

Race is still clearly a highly sensitive issue, particularly in the U.S., but one of the things that makes this country great is freedom of expression. And if that expression takes the form of a weave in the shape of a helicopter, I can think of a lot of things more offensive, and a lot less fun, than that.

Now let’s look at some fierce hair because I’m seriously considering that Hello Kitty jump-off.

Rebekah Wood at the Bronner Bros. Hair & Beauty Mid-Winter 2011 Show at the GWCC on Saturday, Feb. 20, 2011.

090222 ATLANTA, GA - Lacher Reeves models "Queen of the Corn" hair style by Christopher Fountain of Connecticut in the Fantasy Hair Competition during the Bronner Bros. International Hair Show at the Georgia World Congress Center on Sunday February, 22, 2009. Fountain's creation, that included a dress made of braided hair, won first place. All of the over-the-top hair styles were inspired by a certain theme or character. JESSICA MCGOWAN / jmcgowan@ajc.com

090222 ATLANTA, GA - Ronika Watson models a Crown Royal inspired hair style created by Dallas Crum of Powder Springs in the Fantasy Hair Competition during the Bronner Bros. International Hair Show at the Georgia World Congress Center on Sunday February, 22, 2009. Crum's creation placed third in the competition. All of the over-the-top hair styles were inspired by a certain theme or character. JESSICA MCGOWAN / jmcgowan@ajc.com

Quanetia Johnson shows her eyelash inspired hairdo.

090222 ATLANTA, GA - Tashara Lewis models the "Royal Peacock" hair style by Temesha Debardladon (cq) of Birmingham during the Fantasy Hair Competition during the Bronner Bros. International Hair Show at the Georgia World Congress Center on Sunday February, 22, 2009. All of the over-the-top hair styles were inspired by a certain theme or character. JESSICA MCGOWAN / jmcgowan@ajc.com

090222 ATLANTA, GA - Kierra Townsend models the "Sponge Bob Square Pants" hair style by Tammy Pettigrew (cq) of Mississippi in the Fantasy Hair Competition during the Bronner Bros. International Hair Show at the Georgia World Congress Center on Sunday February, 22, 2009. All of the over-the-top hair styles were inspired by a certain theme or character. JESSICA MCGOWAN / jmcgowan@ajc.com

- Some noble citizen, perhaps mistaking the launch of Kim Karashian‘s new fragrance for a Viktor & Rolf event, flour-bombed the unsuspecting reality star on her own red carpet. [Styleite]

- Carine Roitfield‘s magazine will drop in September, come out twice a year, resemble a book and will focus on “fashion with a lot of freedom.” [WWD]

- Newsweek and Tina Brown want Karl Lagerfeld to know that they’re not dying but are actually doing just fine, thanks. [Fashionista]

- Franca Sozzani will be delivering a lecture at Harvard in April about body image and eating disorders and this is how she plans on going about it. [Stylelist]

- Marc Jacobs is taking his stolen collection with tongue firmly in cheek and cash firmly in wallet, offering a T-shirt featuring a wanted poster for the alleged thief. [Racked]

The looks in “Haute Mess” certainly make a statement and that statement is hot tranny mess realness. Literally. In her always entertaining blog, Sozzani wrote that the spread might take its inspiration from “messy drags: untidy, dishevelled, counter-intuitive cross-dressers.” And that’s inspiration you can take to the bank. The Cut caught up with Sozzani, who by this point is more than accustomed to courting controversy, to discuss the editorial.

In typical frank Franca fashion, she utterly dismissed it as a bit of hubub over nothing.

“We wanted to make something quite extravagant,” the editrix explained. “It’s more to push people to be creative and extravagant…we just thought it was the concept of extravagance, of creativity, even something over-the-top, something that is not usual. If you want, you don’t dress like that, you don’t put on this kind of makeup, but it’s just to make a fake, to go over-the-top, it makes you happy in a way, more alive, more colorful — sometimes fashion looks sad.”

As for the backlash, Sozzani openly doesn’t give a damn: “I think it’s good that everyone sees what they wanted to see. As you know, I don’t care as much what people think, because I think that every time that you try to change something, people [say something else]. I respect everybody’s opinion.”

Well, maybe not everyone’s opinion. When asked about people who found the images classist and offensive, Sozzani shut that down real quick: ”There are so many sick people around the world that you cannot — I don’t care about them. I care about normal people. They want to read and see the normal way as we did. If they are sick, it’s not my problem. I am not a psychologist. They should find somebody who could help them.”

While Sozzani doesn’t rank “Haute Mess”as one of her most controversial spreads, she insists that wasn’t what she was going for to begin with: “It’s not that I want it to be controversial all the time, it’s happened. … You can just take pictures like in a catalog so you will never be controversial, but that’s not my choice of life.”

You certainly can’t fault Franca Sozzani for sticking to her guns, but what do you think? Is “Haute Mess” offensive — whether intentional or not — or just over-the-top fun? Click through for the entire editorial and sound off in the comments below.

Photos: Design Scene

- Parsons took on FIT in their annual student designer competition, the Fusion Fashion Show, with Parsons strutting home the victor. [Paper]

- Brazilian hoofer Caroline Trentini editorially jumped the broom this weekend, marrying photographer Fabio Bartelt. [Made in Brazil]

- John Galliano’s still lurking around Paris, as dandy as he wants to be in a beanie and pencil-thin moustache. [WWD]

- Marc Jacobs pays his models in “trade,” i.e. clothes and judging from his last collection, a lot of girls went home severely underpaid. [Huff Po]

- Human Care Bear Alber Elbaz broke out his singing chops during his tenth anniversary party and then a glitter rainbow shot out from his bowtie. [Grazia]

- Vogue Italia‘s editrix-in-chic Franca Sozzani will receive France’s highest civilian honor, the Legion of Honor, which she will hopefully turn into a cocktail ring used to slap insolent interns. And she’ll call it “getting honored.” [The Cut]

1. The photos were not Photoshopped.

2. People don’t understand the different angles at which the body can be shot.

3. Karlie is not anorexic but actually quite muscular. Franca then goes off on a tangent about Kloss’ “buttocks” and supports Kloss’ healthy body with her status as a Victoria’s Secret model.

4. Sozzani, ironically, wanted to avoid a senseless debate because she is “aware of the fact that people can easily attach labels without thinking.” She then goes on to admit: “I made a mistake. I had to do what I thought was right, that is leave the picture and let everybody express their opinion freely. The picture is beautiful and that’s all.”

5.  The editrix is a staunch advocate against pro-anorexia websites but instead of giving up on “experimental” photos such as this, she’d rather offer a course educating people about the history of photography.

6.  Next time, just say it to her goddamn face: “Before talking, why not just ask? I would have answered your doubts before, without causing so many pointless remarks.”

Karlie, for her part, didn’t understand the controversy at all. She thought the photos were beautiful and was very proud and happy with the way the shoot turned out.

Well, what do you think, readers? Was Franca Sozzani right to take down the photo or are people just being a bunch of Negative Nancies? [Vogue Italia]

Role Call: Yolanda Sacristan, Spain (seated), Kirstie Clements, Australia (middle), Anaita Adajania, India (back), Christiane Arp, Germany (seated), Angelica Cheung, China (standing), Franca Sozzani, Italy (seated), Mitsuko Watanabe, Japan (standing), Anna Wintour, America (seated), Emmanuelle Alt, France (reclining), Alexandra Shulman, Britain (seated), Victoria Davydova, Russia (standing), Anna Harvey, representing Brazil and Greece (seated), Seda Domanic, Turkey (seated), Myung Hee Lee, Korea (seated), Rosalie Huang, Taiwan (standing), Eva Hughes, Mexico and Latin America (standing), Paula Mateus, Portugal (seated)

[NYT]

Editors, we salute you.

Users must register on Vogue.it and from there they can suggest article ideas as well as add to and revise already published content. Every article has a byline and all submissions will be reviewed by a Vogue staffer.

“We are trying not to misinterpret your articles, but some must be necessarily edited and you must accept it, not feel criticized and try to understand you are being assisted by an experienced staff,” Sozzani wrote before the launch of Encyclo in her always entertaining blog. So far the editrix is happy with what she sees and has plans to dedicate a page of Vogue Italia to “a recap of the best themes.”

Franca Sozzani, more than any other editor, Vogue or otherwise, always seems to be on the cusp and with Vogue Encyclo she purports to foster a new generation of journalists: “I cannot solve all your problems, but I do believe that through a regular collaboration with this project you may gain experience and demonstrate you are capable of writing for a magazine.” [WWD]

“I am disgusted. I have no other words. I am disgusted and embarrassed: How can Italy tolerate Silvio Berlusconi and his bevy of girls?” Wintour admonished before going on to call Berlusconi a dictator and hoping that women protest against him during Milan Fashion Week.

Anna Wintour, revolutionary. Next thing you know, she and Franca Sozzani will get all Fidel Castro and Che Guevara — respectively — on Berlusconi and overthrow the Italian government themselves, appointing Miuccia Prada as their titular figurehead.

Vogue‘s HBIC also lauded Italy’s incomparable craftsmanship while criticizing its “compromised” political climate and wondering how people can “tolerate all this?” Well, it’s amazing what people can put up with under the iron thumb of a “dictator.” Just ask any Vogue staffer. [WWD]

- Ben & Jerry’s took a trip back to the nineties when Saturday Night Live was even less relevant than it is now for their newest flavor, Schweddy Balls. [Ben & Jerry's]

- And speaking of the nineties, this week marks the 20th anniversary of Nirvana‘s groundbreaking Nevermind album, the cover of which was actually a fluke, according to photog Kirk Weddle. But to celebrate the iconic image of a chubby little baby floating naked underwater, Rock Paper Photo is giving away an 11X14 print through their Facebook page.

- Franca Sozzani struck a match then proceeded to blow Marc Jacobs‘ spot up at a celebration for Louis Vuitton re: his dealings with Dior. [NYT]

- Ricky’s bowed to the outcry against its “Anna Rexia” costume by pulling it from its shelves because apparently a skeleton over an LBD with a tape measure as a belt is NOT hilarious. It’s always a sad day when a cheap eating disorder joke goes down the drain. Along with my lunch. [Jezebel]

- Don’t worry, kids, Wal-Mart isn’t going to ruin New York. That happened about 10 years ago when New York banned smoking in bars. [Racked]

- Marlon Texeira takes his clothes off for breast cancer. Problem solved. [Image Amplified]

- The Mulleavy sisters realize their own style is boring and thus don’t design Rodarte for themselves. [Fashionista]

- Zach Galifianakis put down the bong long enough to design a handbag. Or maybe he just put the bong in the handbag. [Fashionista]

- Tom Ford‘s secretive spring 2012 show took place Sunday and while we have to wait for the photos to pop up — in a welcome change — at least one reporter’s not seeing the emperor’s new clothes. [The Cut]

- Among Franca Sozzani‘s many (?) fans: Anna Wintour, who claims Sozzani “completely and utterly understands that Vogue is about much more than editing a magazine every month.” [Time]

- Justin Timberlake and Mila Kunis want you to know there were no dicks in a box — or boxes — between the two of them. [Just Jared]

- Away from the “chiffon trenches of fashion,” André Leon Talley finds solace upstate in Hastings-on-Hudson where his favorite store is The Container Store, in which he shops for paper “to wrap Whoopi Goldberg’s presents.” A normal life if there ever was one. [NYT]

- Franca Sozzani, editrix-in-chief of Vogue Italia and all-around bad bitch thinks Dior should just hire back Galliano. And as usual, she’s right. [Daily Beast]

- In Saudi Arabia, hands off the girls. Men are now outlawed from selling lingerie. [Styleite]

- Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen have partnered with Steve Madden to become creative directors of Superga, an upscale version of which will be launched with The Row‘s spring 2012 collection. [Fashionologie]

- The next generation of It girls is pretty much fucked. [Styleite]

- Anna Wintour‘s been in a great mood this Fashion Week. Something awful is about to happen, isn’t it? [Refinery29]

Following the announcement that Rihanna will be Vogue Italia‘s “Woman of the Year,” FashionIndie put together this retrospective from her last shoot with the Italian mag, with her  looking weirdly like Victoria Beckham for their September 2009 issue.The editorial shot by Steven Klein is entitled “Extreme Couture,” and we would expect nothing less from Rihanna. Bondage, sparkle pasties, pouring water out of back packs – it’s all there.

The new article from this year’s magazine calls her the “jewel in the crown of Jay-Z‘s stable” (Stable? Let’s not even get started on the fact that crowns and horses have nothing to do with each other), and also drops her full name, uddenly we’re glad that she went with her middle name. Two Robyn‘s with amazing music careers would just get a too confusing.

The magazine refers to her as an “independent, energetic fighting spirit” and claims that  ”she is currently the undisputed best contender to the role of queen of pop. You might wonder – wasn’t that supposed to be Lady Gaga‘s title? Not quite.” Them’s fighting words, Franca.

Strange article aside, Rihanna‘s black and white editorial from last year is still as fierce as she is, and we’re loving it.

- “Visitors to Alexander McQueen‘s ‘Savage Beauty’ exhibit exceed 500,000.” Meanwhile, the exhibit ends August 7. If you don’t see it by then, kill yourself. [Telegraph]

- Go behind the scenes of V Magazine‘s Liz Taylor inspired editorial. Bring your electric blue eye shadow and your  flask of vodka. [Stylelist]

- The Queen thinks that the display of Kate Middleton‘s wedding dress at Buckingham palace is “horrid.” Jealousy is not a good color for a monochrome skirtsuit, Queen. [WWD]

- Gaga does not own an iPhone because her nails are too long to use one… Tranny. [Glamour]

- Valentino was doing red soles in the 60s. Guess what? Case closed. [Stylelite]

Photo: Zimbio

They will be joined by Condé Nast International chairman, Jonathan Newhouse, to form Voguetron show support for the country’s ravaged economy and fashion industry. This show of support includes a gala dinner for fashion executives, celebrities and VIPS on November 4th and Anna will once again miss my birthday when the next day she and the other Vogue ladies attend the Tokyo FNO. [WWD]

Photos: Vogue.it

On hand to toast Wintour — who never met a Chanel bouclé tweed she didn’t drape over her frail back — were Karl Lagerfeld, Donatella Versace with bff Riccardo Tisci — fresh off his glorious fall 2011 haute couture collection for Givenchy – Lanvin‘s Alber Elbaz, Anna’s Italian counterpart Franca Sozzani, Mario Testino, LVMH head honcho Bernard Arnault, YSL‘s Stefano Pilati, Burberry‘s Christopher Bailey,  Tommy Hilfiger, professional dandy and Vogue‘s editor-at-large Hamish Bowles and the Rhoda to Anna’s Mary, Grace Coddington.

According to the Kaiser, “We had this very nice cocktail, where Anna made a very funny speech.” I have a hard time believing at least one of those facts. [WWD]

Click through for more picture from Vogue Italia that were apparently taken by a drunk intern with an iPhone.

Speaking with the Huffington Post, Enninful notes that while there are “still very few black people,” the American fashion industry has reassessed its approach to fashion. And who else do we have to thank but that certified brick house of a Fierce Lady, Michelle Obama:

“You know, for one of the most influential women in the country to be black. I know that meant a great deal to a lot of black people in the fashion industry. And also now we have Twitter, we have the internet, and I’ve seen so many young black people who are involved in fashion. They’re making their own clothes, they’re styling, they’re taking photographs, and I guess the future generation to come, they’re all racing to become one global fashion industry. That’s what I hope, anyway.”

Enninful goes on to describe working with Franca Sozzani on the now legendary “Black Issue” of Vogue Italia, claiming the editix “put her money where her mouth is”:

“She continued to feature black models, she continued to feature different body types or body shapes. She continued to challenge the norm, which is the question that we’ve been talking about, and I feel that’s what we want to take from W as well. We want to make everybody a part of the after-party.”

It’s kind of ridiculous that it’s 2011 and we’re still discussing racism at all, let alone racism in an industry as forward-thinking and revolutionary as fashion. Andrej Pejic just did double duty in mens and womenswear during São Paulo Fashion Week, after all.

Luckily there are people like Ed Enninful leading the way towards a new ethnically rich and diverse fashion frontier. [HuffPo]

Photos: Vogue Italia.it

- Daphne Guinness insists that she’s not Dita von Teese, referencing her upcoming stunt dressing for the Met Ball in Barney’s store window on May 2nd. She insists on modesty, saying that she’ll be “getting dressed behind something.” Guinness will of course be wearing Alexander McQueen to honor the late designer’s Savage Beauty.  [NYT]

- When you make Time‘s 100 Most Influential People list, dying your hair red is apparently front page news, especially if you’re a renowned purse ambassador for Chanel like Blake Lively. [Refinery29]

- Speaking of Chanel, PoshGlam takes a look inside of celebrity stylist Anya Sarre‘s quilted Chanel bag, which is decidedly more posh and glam than the insides of our bags. [PoshGlam]

- If like me you’re wondering what kind of rug Prince Charles will cut at the Royal Wedding, wonder no further: it’ll be a funky rug. [Styleite]

- America’s Next Top Model is returning for its 145th cycle and Tyra‘s bringing back “models who became breakout characters and who had the most memorable stories from past seasons,” i.e. the top models who have nothing better to do. Which is pretty much all of them. [USA Today]

-

Mandatory Credit: Photo by Rex USA ( 762774c ) Blake Lively Time magazine's 100 Most Influential People in the World Gala, New York, America - 26 Apr 2011 762774c

- American Apparel has hired a new retail executive in Marty Staff to dig them out of the clusterfuck known as their crippling debt. With a reported net loss of $67 million over the first nine months of 2010, they’ll need a very large shovel. Perhaps CEO Dov Charney can start funneling some money from his secret sex slave ring to boost revenue. I’m not saying break up the sex slave ring, god forbid, but this is the age of synergy. A sex slave sweat shop, perhaps? [The Cut]

- Vogue Italia‘s EIC, Franca Sozzani wags her bony little finger at pro–anorexia websites for propagating eating disorders in young girls while defending  designers who altruistically “discard those [models] who are visibly suffering from nutritional problems.” Well, as long as they’re discarded…. [Vogue.it]

The main difference between the spreads is the presence of Amber’s son, Auden, thus confirming the American belief that children ruin your life and leave you a husk of a human being. The Italians, the story tells me, romp around their empty home with bigger hair and more dramatic eye make-up, struggling with their addiction to wine and moody cinema.

Steven Klein brings Amber’s desperation to light for U.S. Vogue with the help of stylist Camilla Nickerson, while her ten-year-old son proves the fierce fruit does not fall far from the supermodel tree. Across the pond, Craig McDean lenses Amber solo, benefiting from Edward Enninful‘s routinely amazing styling.

The two spreads are different and strong enough to stand on their own, but with Gisele and Britt Maren appearing in the same dress on the covers of Vogue Paris and Germany, respectively, I can’t help but wonder…

Are there too many Vogues?

I mean, in honesty, I can do with only the following five: Vogue Italia (the best), Vogue Paris (giving Alt a chance), Vogue Nippon (amazing editorials), U.S. Vogue (the glue that holds the family together) and Vogue Russia (because of this).

The others can shutter for all I care. And yes, I am referring to British Vogue — I don’t really care for it, despite Kate Winslet‘s recent stunner of a cover.

Anyway, check out the editorials below, try to see any comparisons and catch the rest of the photos on Lookbooks!

Photos: Fashiontography

@rihanna: My bad ci, did I 4get to tip u? #howrudeofme

[@LesFabian: Ouch. #bitch]

@rihanna: U gangsta huh? Haaa

@ciara: Trust me Rihanna you don’t want to see me on or off the stage.

@rihanna: Good luck with bookin that stage u speak of

[@LesFabian: Oh snap! #BURN]

@ciara: pure comedy…

[@LesFabian: #nocomeback]

@rihanna: Ciara baby, I love u girl! U hurt my feelings real bad on TV! I’m heartbroken! That’s y I retaliated this way! So sorry!

[@LesFabian: How...sweet... #lyingherfaceoff]

@ciara: Rhi, u know its always been love since day 1! Doing shows and everything. You threw me off in that party! Apology accepted. Let’s chat in person.

[@LesFabian: Translation: Bitch, wait til I twist my fingers through that troll doll hair. #illcutabitch]

Things have calmed down dramatically since then, but whenever divas duel it out in the public arena, there is an inevitable choosing of sides and bitter argument over who’s better, blah, blah blah.

Well, since I live for these moments, I’ve decided the only logical way to determine who is the baddest bitch on the block (clearly not including Beyoncé who could blink and take out both of them) is to compare both RiRi’s and CiCi’s editorials from European Vogues…naturally.

Rihanna covered Vogue Italia‘s special couture supplement in 2009, shot by the incredible Steven Klein and styled by Patti Wilson:

Then last year, Givenchy creative director Riccardo Tisci styled Ciara for a Vogue Paris shoot with the dynamic duo of Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott.

For me, the answer is clear. Ciara’s editorial easily trumps Rihanna’s, achieving a poetic and sensual beauty that’s more effective than the hard, technical sexuality of the Klein shoot. Which is not to say that both spreads aren’t great, but Ciara possesses a grace and classic beauty that makes her actually look like a model and not just a moonlighting popstar in it for some free couture.

Plus, she totally gets extra points because Riccardo said this about her:

“Ciara is like a black Betty Page. A very refined hip hop queen. Although she is American, she has a sort of European class, a Parisian chic.”

Musing for Givenchy beats out openly stealing from David LaChappelle any day of the week.

Italian Vogue‘s EIC, Franca Sozzani addressed the issue of discrimination in the fashion industry on her amazing blog last week, asking “Is skin color still an issue?”:

“We continue to give it [diversity] more space in the magazine and website. The truth is that real beauty doesn’t care for skin color or nationality.”

For Sozzani there is no issue of race, no issue of discrimination and she wonders why readers think it’s “such an issue to choose black models?”

Well, the answer is simple. For so long, beauty was defined by a specific type of girl; designers and magazines only chose skinny, non-distinct Eastern European girls which became the industry standard.

The trend is slowly shifting, but it’s difficult to change the perception of fashion being particularly racist when the industry itself is responsible for the proliferation of that perception.

So in reaction to this homogeneity, any time there is an editorial exclusively featuring black models the inevitable debate begins anew:  is this a matter of progress or exploitation?

I’d like to think it’s progress. It’s incredibly important and inspiring to see beauty represented in all forms and all colors, for society and for the fashion industry. Everyone needs to see themselves reflected in ads and editorials in order to feel beautiful and to feel that they too are respected consumers.

And furthermore, after looking at pale, emaciated human hangers for all those seasons, I think we could all use an injection of, dare I say, color.

Check out the rest of the editorial — a jazz-inspired romp through the Harlem Renaissance — shot by Emma Summerton and styled by Edward Enninful at Lookbooks!

Photos: Vogue.it / Link Love: Style House Files

You may have heard that the fourth season of MTV‘s pop culture juggernaut, the Jersey Shore will be filming in Italy. Italians, for reasons I cannot begin to comprehend, are none too pleased about this. But luckily Franca is around to explain:

“It doesn’t make us [Italians] look too good, and no matter how many protests there are in Italy, the series is a great success. It looks incredible that whatever is ugly, cheap, ignorant, foul, and doesn’t make much sense other than being seen…young people screaming and fighting, insulting each other, get drunk and make love, is a success. It’s like that. And they get success.”

The success of the Jersey Shore is no doubt baffling to anyone with an IQ above, oh, 30, but as a devotee of the show — yeah, I’ll admit it publicly — I derive a great amount of pleasure in seeing people who clearly have never heard of “self-awareness” going through the motions of their petty dramas, fights and inevitable reconciliations all while drenched in Jose Cuervo.

“Why does ugliness attract, and especially a young audience? What’s so interesting about watching ugly people, poorly dressed, and that speak vulgar? Why should anyone fall down to that level? It’s sounds impossible that people would want to lower themselves this much. It’s ignorance, lack of real interests.”

I’m not sure if Sozzani’s referring to their looks or their behavior when she calls them ugly, but we as human beings loves to see someone — not ourselves , god forbid — “fall down to that level” and act vulgar. Not only does it make you feel superior, but that behavior allows you to live vicariously through these characters — and at this point, they’ve all become caricatures of themselves.

You may have the worst day, have broken up with your significant other, lost a job, what have you, but there’s something comforting in seeing Snooki wasted, yet again, in a nightclub wearing what could barely pass for a dress, falling down and getting arrested. You can experience that hedonism without directly suffering the consequences.

I, however, am not Italian — and for that matter, neither is half the cast of the Shore — and Franca seems to think that their actions are a reflection on Italians. A very poor reflection at that.

“Is this what they think of us abroad? Apparently, yes.”

On this point, I would have to say Sozzani is way off the mark. The Jersey Shore doesn’t depict life as an Italian-American, it depicts life as a guido; that special subset of Italian-American culture that revels in spray tans, big hair, gorilla juiceheads and smooshing. And who, for their credit, are damn proud of it.

When I think of Italy, I still think of a country rich in history and culture; I think of Italy as I’ve seen in it in Fellini films; gorgeous men in tight pants riding around on vespas; gorgeous, dark eyed women with impossible curves gyrating seductively to a mandolin. But then again, I’ve never been to Italy.

Franca Sozzani believes Italy has culture, but she’s shocked that “there is a lot of trash.” Well, sister, how do you think we feel? America spawned the Jersey Shore and the culture it documents/lampoons. We’re the garbage dump; Italy is a wastebasket in comparison.

Link Love: Vogue.it

In her broken English — or badly translated Italian — Sozzani extols the virtues of Yves Saint Laurent‘s nakedness, Stephanie Seymour‘s snatch, and the artistic nudes of Helmut Newton and Richard Avedon.

They knew how to be naked back then!

She then goes on to call Terry Richardson and Juergen Teller trashy and blame them for transforming nudes into “something sexy and crude rather than glossy.” Whatever “glossy” is supposed to mean.

The editrix then goes on to attack the Tom Ford-helmed issue of Vogue Paris, featuring a wide range of exploitation:

“How about little girls? Wearing heavy make up, sexy clothes, posing in poses that are outrageous for their age.”

Sozzani seems to think that the pinnacle of child exploitation was in the 80s Brooke Shields pedo-fest, Pretty Baby, as “the images were actually romantic for the harsh reality [baby prostitution] portrayed in them.”

And as for those naked elderly people, she’d prefer they keep their wrinkly birthday suits covered up, thank you very much.

Franca Sozzani’s point in all of this is that the images being presented should say something and not just shock for the hell of it.  I love a nude male model as much as the next lady, often much much more, but when does it go from being art or fashion and just becomes porn?

Answer: point of insertion.

But beyond that, if a collection just isn’t good, there’s no point in calling it avant-garde. That’s an easy cop-out. If an article of clothing defies categorization or tradition, sure, call it avant-garde. But feel free to listen to Franca when in doubt:

“If what’s beautiful depends on your opinion, what’s ugly just repulses you.”

What do you think? Does Franca Sozzani have a point?

Link Love: Vogue Italia

Couture – “Calling something ‘couture’ doesn’t make it hand-sewn or high class.” No, it certainly doesn’t, that’s why you should just call it Trash, then call it a day.

Statement outfits - “Does your clothing speak louder than words?” My clothing is usually screaming; if not for attention, at least for spare change. And though these creations make a statement, they also raise numerous questions, hence a Dubious outfit.

Smoldering – “O.K., your makeup is hot. Your outfit is hotter. You are about to combust. We get it.” I’ve actually never heard/seen anyone use this term when not referring to coals or an STD, but I’ll trust the Times (this once) and suggest we toss a match on that smoldering outfit and make it Flaming (which is usually reserved for the gays).

Fashionista – “The word has gone from describing a class of urban style-conscientious sophisticates to becoming a lazy and cheap byword for anyone with a modicum of taste.” Let’s not forget the further cheapening of the word after it was co-opted by a certain bargain-priced chain of department stores. Let’s just do away with the term all together since it’s lost all reverence and use it ironically to describe…oh, I don’t know…Maxxinistas.

Geek-chic -” In 2010, anyone who sported thick-framed glasses, cardigans and T-shirts with nerdy references was instantly labeled ‘geek-chic.’” I love geeks as much as the next gal, but their purported style is basically that of an old man. So let’s call a spade a spade and rename this trend Geriatric-chic, Geriatrique for short.

D.I.Y. fashion – “It’s not always necessary to knit your own mittens.” Unless you actually have a talent for sewing or construction, you’re not fooling anyone and this is just plain old Laziness.

Well-edited - “This replaced ‘curated’ to describe any collection chosen with a sharp eye.” Why not go a step further and use specific editors; whose sharp eye best described this collection? Well-Wintoured? Well-Coddingtoned? Well-Leon Tallied? Well-Sozzanied? Well-Roitfeld’d? Okay, maybe not the last one…

Mash-up: “Used to describe looks that blend multiple influences…” though not all looks blend their influences well. Those particular mash-ups are just a Hot Tranny Mess.

Hopefully these and other terms will catch on and peter out so quickly that words will no longer be used to describe fashion and we’ll reserve a series of grunts, facial expressions and elaborate movements to replace them.

Oh my god, your outfit is so *wild flailing arms followed by feigned dry heaving*!

Photo/Link Love: NY Times

At least here, in  Candy, the world’s first “transversal style magazine” where its editor/publisher Luis Venegas takes his tranny for a spin in the devil’s own Prada.

Vogue‘s editorial yin-yang Anna and Grace weren’t the only ones to get tranned out for the occasion. Kawakubo-worshipping teen blogger Tavi Gevinson, Vogue Italia editor Franca Sozzani and other front row staples also got the femme-men treatment for the spread “The Devil Wears Anna”.

If you’re a loyal reader of Candy, and caught one of the 1000 copies of the very first issue, then this news is old hat. That issue was released about a year ago, but these trantastic photos have only just been posted to the interwebs by photographer (and master photoshopper) Brett Lloyd.

LINK LOVE: Frockwriter

A new photo spread in Vogue Italia has a lot of people scratching their heads unsure of whether the spread is bold or just insensitive. The spread, which takes its cue from the oil spill in The Gulf and is titled “Water & Oil,” features various pictures of a model with a feathered dress on and oil on her body. “The message is to be careful about nature,” Franca Sozzani, the Editor-In-Chief of Vogue Italia, explained to the Associated Press. “Just to take care more about nature. … I understand that it could be shocking to see and to look in this way these images.”

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According to Blog Crazy Sexy Techie Cool, Italian Vogue is following up last summer’s All Black Issue with a special issue featuring all black Barbies…

Franca Sozzani, Editor-in-Chief of Italian Vogue explains, “Barbie has been an icon for whole generations which is why I really wanted to give a strong sign in step with the times, and dedicate [this] issue to Black Barbie.” The special issue includes artistic photography and fashion, in addition to adorable Barbie Dolls.

READ MORE: FashionBomb

Steven Meisel’s editorial for Vogue Italia April 2009 is basically the greatest game of dress-up you could ever imagine. Poking fun at our current economic crisis, “Fashion Bailout” portrays some intense mixing, matching and accessorizing at what appears to be a second hand store. While the clothes on Darya, Portia & Eliza are a mish-mosh of Moschino, Maison Martin Margiela, Roberto Cavalli and others, this spread suggests that you can look just as couture wearing Goodwill finds. But to be honest, I would have pegged this spread the brainchild of Carine Roitfeld over Franca Sozzani.

GALLERY: SPREAD UM: “Fashion Bailout” Vogue Italia April 2009

Thanks Fashion Copious!