While Angelina Jolie's right leg is photo bombing the world, Milan got leg bombed with slits that hit the pelvic bone. Even in plaid.

Enough with this leg bombing! The Military cometh to lay down some laws. Ferragamo is still in the trenches while Cavalli is coming home decorated victoriously.

Curves are being created on nearly every runway with optical side panelling or lacing. The inward jut of black or blank space creates a waist, and the curve of the center panel creates the hips. If you're skinny, you'll look curvy and if you're curvy you'll appear thinner.

With the military comes censorship. Unlike the breast baring all over NYFW, Milan has thrown a censor bandeau under the sheers.

Now to the cat with a million lives. Leopard lives on the runways and on the structured jackets of next fall.

Terry Richardson catches the popstar in her natural element: tranny heels, masks and bodysuits. Providing that element is stylist and Gay Friday, Nicola Formichetti, who keeps Her Royal Gagness resplendent in her staples — Mugler, Alexander McQueen, Versace and Dior — with a sprinkling of a custom Francesco Scognamiglio bodysuit here and a gothic Tex Saverio dress there.

Make no facial prosthetics bones about it, when it comes to putting on a show, there’s no one who can do it like Lady Gaga. Whether you care to see the show is a matter of personal opinion, but as long as she keeps making me dance, laugh and maybe even occasionally think, I’ve got my ticket.

Photos: Nicola Formichetti’s Blog!!

Stars were seen on the runway for this spring in various forms. Prints, emblems, and embellishments in the shape of stars found their way in some designer’s collections, such as Francesco Scognamiglio, Vena Cava, and Derek Lam. I wouldn’t mind seeing more of this trend—especially in the way Derek Lam used it on those navy shorts.

Born in 1975 in Pompeii, near Naples, Francesco Scognamiglio opened his first atelier when he was 23. Since then his career has been constantly on the rise thanks to his designs often characterized by a strange dichotomy between research, experimentation and avant-garde inspirations on one side and the traditional principles of the Neapolitan tailoring school on the other. This perennial dichotomy came back in Scognamiglio’s Spring/Summer 09 collection: perfectly tailored cropped jackets were paired with black plastic see-through trousers; there was an emphasis on sleeves, shoulders and shoulder-pads, often decorated with ethereal feathers; sculpted ruffles appeared on necklines, skirts and dresses, alternated to cascades of roses.

Where did the inspiration for your Spring/Summer 09 collection come from?

Francesco Scognamiglio: It came from a deep desire of communicating a modern allure and a new sense of elegance. Birds of paradise were they main theme behind this collection. These rare birds inspired the feather details and the collection palette, if you think about the blue zircon of some of the outfits. The fabrics used in this collection went from the softest and lightest silks, almost transparent and impalpable, to silk gazar woven on ancient looms that was employed to give more structure to some garments.

Is there one of the outfits from the S/S 09 collection that was particularly difficult to make?

FS: The last one. Behind it there is all my experience but also the highest craftsmanship since to make this outfit I used crystal mesh, chiffon and lace. Working with three different materials that also have very different weights was very challenging but also highly rewarding. In one of your previous collections there were little hidden details on some of the outfits, such as golden buttons with heraldic symbols and stylised bagpipes.

Are there any special hidden details in this collection?
FS: The sartorial construction of this season’s dresses is the real hidden detail. Though from the outside the dresses look very simple, inside they have a complicated structure built with whalebone sticks.

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