Models on Todd Lynn's Spring 2012 runway / Style.com

According to Carole White, founder of Premier Model Management and not the biggest Naomi Campbell fan, ”We’re not just talking about one or two big girls. Jacobs had numerous models holding on options right up until the day of his show meaning they all stayed in New York just in case they got cast.”

White goes on to say, ”Gucci demanded that girls fly to Milan on Saturday to meet Frida to see if she would consider them for her show, which meant Saturday got trashed. Then the girls were expected to fly straight back to London, and if Gucci were interested, fly back to Milan again on Sunday for another round of casting, then for fittings on Monday. Only a tiny fraction of them realistically have a shot at being in that show — we all know it will be full of mega girls. I find it insulting that a designer like Frida thinks London is so insignificant that she would do that.”

For agents and models alike, Gucci and Jacobs are major gets, but that leaves the already packed London schedule of designers feeling like fashion’s bastard step-children. A source at Todd Lynn claims to have “lost 10 out of 19 girls,” with agents calling them in the middle of the night to pull their girls and some models not even showing up for fittings because they’ve flown off to Milan.

Also not helping matters is LOVE magazine editor Katie Grand — damn you Katie Grand — who styled for Jacobs and also styled for the London-based designer Giles Deacon. Grand demanded a five-hour call time — which one “fashion insider” calls ”unnecessary, absurd, selfish and wrong,” citing Paris’ strict two-hour limit — thus monopolizing any girls left in town after Burberry.

Amidst fears that London Fashion Week may be squeezed out all together, the British Fashion Council is beginning to feel the heat. The BFC is being accused of mismanaging the show calendar and for not standing up to the organizers behind the  New York and Milan fashion weeks.

Meanwhile, CEO of the BFC, Caroline Rush, insists that something is being done. She’s not particularly clear what that something is, but the Council has “invested time in developing direct relationships with model agencies to better understand their challenges and encourage them to send more internationally-recognised catwalk models to London. This season, the models at designers such as Jonathan Saunders, Erdem, Christopher Kane and Tom Ford have been of a global standard.”

Well, for those handful of shows, good for you. But for everyone else suffering at the model-grabbing claws of New York and Milan: damn you, Caroline Rush. [Telegraph]

Ungaro CEO and American brand turnaround specialist, Jeffry Aronsson seems optimistic about losing their leader, “We are all here to serve the brand in a modern way. I make new discoveries every day about the talent within these walls.”

Will they make a star of an assistant designer? Let’s see who shines in Paris.

Meanwhile, Giles is onto furthering his own brand. I smell bags, shoes, makeup, perfume, the whole regalia in the coming seasons.

Link Love: WWD

11. University of Delaware Newark, DE

Campus Tour: The smallest state also has a small design program that is focused on quality garment making from every angle. The program follows a garment through its entire lifecycle, from the creative design and tailoring, to a focus on sustainably producing goods on both small and large scale in a socially and environmentally minded manner. An entirely student run fashion magazine, UDress, and fashion shows exist outside of class, working to show and pull fashion out of this college driven town.

Programs: Apparel Design, Merchandising, Sustainability

Student Body: 16,500

Tuition:  $27,000

Star Alumni: Well, me. And a fierce force that is the backbone of the garment industry.

@fashionindie: So, first things first, what are you wearing?

@marian_kihogo: today I like to call my look ‘car mechanic by way of the 70′s’ I’m in vintage jumpsuit-vintage headwrap-vintage accessories

@fashionindie: You’re speaking my language, lady. I knew I wanted you to be my 1st Tweet-à-Tête interview b/c of your incredible style.

@marian_kihogo: total honour for me, seeing that it’s fashion indie and it’s your first!

here is a pic of what I’m in today

@fashionindie: I’m living for that scarf. Where’d you get it?

@marian_kihogo: the scarf is actually the product of a long story.To cut it short,I bought it off a lovely elderly lady She had it on her bag!

I paid her in bangle. We did a swap on a bus. Hilarious story, told you it was long

@fashionindie: I remember when I first saw you at NYFW. 12 ft tall, stunning, black head2toe, black fur coat, FUCHSIA LIP. #dead

It was like you were the walking embodiment of fierce. What inspires your style?

@marian_kihogo: thank you so much. Over the winter it was all about the faux fur and fuchsia lip. Something so rock’n'roll glam about it

my style has always been directed by the emotive plus a love of the 70′s,sharp tailoring & a need to express a present moment

I’m inspired by everything and nothing; a film, a moment, a woman on the street, a song, a place, inspiration is all around

@fashionindie: I’m all about the 70s. It’s funny you’re werqing a 70s car mechanic look, I was going for 70s college art prof.

@marian_kihogo: I love that ’70s college art prof’ I might have to try that tonight for a clients party

@fashionindie: Feel free, it’s all about a cardigan.

@fashionindie: When I actually spoke to you, I wasn’t at all surprised you were British. The Br. fashion scene’s always been so cutting edge

@marian_kihogo: I think it is because the UK has always been known for experimentation, that certain spirit of fearless willingness to create

the fashion scene here is such a mix. The slick established luxury – eg Burberry to the clever wit – Giles etc

we are fashion’s ‘enfant terrible’ but it has birthed incredible talent

@fashionindie: I agree. In NY it feels like you can always wear anything or try anything, but there’s no sense of rebellion. Are u a rebel?

@marian_kihogo: Im most defo a rebel in a sense.I’ve always lived by the ideal that the mass market is myself.what I want to wear for me goes

but I think that rebel is in every creative,a need to create a new path, to dress to pls self. No real creative can be a clone

@fashionindie: Rebel w/ a cause. Do u have any labels you absolutely can’t live w/o? Or are u more of an eclectic anything goes kind of gal?

@marian_kihogo: wow I’m more of a ‘does it move marian?’ kind of girl

so if it moves me it is a done deal. All I ever bought fashion wise challenged me mentally/emotionally.style is emotive

so designers like. Ana Šekularac, Jean Pierre Braganza, McQueen, Balenciaga, Halston, Prada (maria francesca pepe)@MFPepe

have become faves over time because I resonate with their vision, aesthetic and journey as creatives

@fashionindie: I’m looking over some preview images from the #McQueen #Met retrospective. It’s breathtaking.

@marian_kihogo: there will never be another McQueen; the fearlessness, the vision, the technical ability, the ability to weave a story

@fashionindie: So true. Though I love what Sarah Burton‘s been doing with the house. Are you interested at all in the #RoyalWedding ?

@marian_kihogo: ha I knew a question about the #RoyalWedding was coming! I’m actually interested in the gown. hoping for contemporary

@fashionindie: It’s all I hear about! Americans haven’t been this Anglophilic since the Spice Girls. I think we all love a giant spectacle.

@marian_kihogo: well hold your prada clutches and Dolce corset dresses as something tells me it is going to be huge

@fashionindie: But as a Brit, does it mean anything to you besides the gown? #stillhoping4McQ Is there a patriotic pride attached?

@marian_kihogo: there is patriotic pride attached as I think the Royal family is a beautiful thing. So for me, a new princess is exciting

there is a feeling of being all part of an extended bridal party as it were. Like one big party celebrating with them

@fashionindie: It seems to really bring the country together.

@marian_kihogo: Well put!

@fashionindie: I know here, our 1st Lady has a tremendous influence on fashion. Will it be the same for Kate?

@marian_kihogo: I think Kate will have an influence on fashion. Whether she will have as much effect as Princess Diana remains to be seen

I know a few people who are already tipping her as icon, there are those who went out and bought the Issa engagement dress

@fashionindie:  That dress was cute and all but Di’s a huge legacy 2 live up 2. So tell me about your blog? How’d you get started?

@marian_kihogo: my blog was actually the internet version of a scrapbook I’d compiled over yrs. It had fabric scraps,images, quotes etc

if I found something thought provoking/inspiring, it went into that tattered book. When I moved and lost it, the blog was born

@fashionindie: That’s brilliant! And you’ll never lose it, unless the internet disappears. #knockonwood And how did you get into styling?

@marian_kihogo: I started styling at 14,my friends mother looked a mess for dinner. I cut up her designer dress. She became my 1st client.

@fashionindie: “my friends mother looked a mess for dinner.” I hope you’re as honest with your other clients!

@marian_kihogo: oh honesty(with tact no doubt!:) is an important policy and most people value and respect it.

@fashionindie:  What’s a typical styling gig?

@marian_kihogo: there is no typical styling gig! That’s why I love it.

Everything from pre-styling someone for an alps winter get-a-away for month to a red carpet function.Its fun-hectic-constant

@fashionindie: When dressing a client, do you buy what you think THEY would like or what YOU would want to see them in?

@marian_kihogo: that’s a great question. It is always about what they like, what image they want to have the public see.

with clients we work to suit an image they want to create-develop-maintain.I offer tips/ideas but they must be happy

so it is a very symbiotic relationship. They provide the desired dream image and style icons, I bring the fuel with ideas

@fashionindie: Okay, for my final question. Music and fashion always go hand in hand for me. What are you listening to these days?

@marian_kihogo: love your last question! Rihanna‘s Loud album is fantastic, Notorious Big(brilliant), Nina Simone, Joni Mitchell, Jimi Hendrix

I am a huge music fan both new and old. Music and fashion go hand in hand.Thanks for the tweet-interview. Glam kisses, Marian

LINK LOVE: Style.com

Photo: People.com

Prabal Gurung

Prabal Gurung really knows how to make a woman feel like a lady; something Sheen usually undoes in a matter of minutes, but a pastel pink can soften anyone’e edges.

Donna Karan

Sheer-ly you jest! I’m sure Charlie’s angels are used to anything see-through, particularly pornogal Rachel Oberlin aka Bree Olson. However, Donna Karan shows how to class up that look while still giving off  a whiff of that all-important “whore” vibe; the Charlie Sheen catnip, as it were.

Jason Wu

It’s important to make a statement whenever entering a room and Jason Wu’s finale gown makes that statement loud and clear: “I’ve arrived now kill yourself.”  Which is something that Charlie’s been known to utter to more than a few hookers in the past.

Giles

Every goddess has her dark side — even Aphrodite could be a ruthless, conniving bitch — but that’s not to say they still can’t look heavenly. Also, I wouldn’t be surprised if Charlie loves a little leather (or a lot).

Alberta Ferretti

Some goddesses deign to walk the earth with mortals, while some come alive in nature. And for some, like Chronic Girl 2010, Natalie Kenly, nature holds the promise of some really choice bud. What better way to answer that age-old question “how green was my valley?” then with this floral-inspired number from Alberta Ferretti.

Prada

Besides ancient Greece, the greatest goddesses resided in the 70s: Diana Ross, Cher, Liza, Bianca Jagger, Elton John. Prada took a page out of that glittery era’s chapter with this sequined fur number that would look great hunched over a pile of cocaine on Charlie Sheen’s coffee table.

Versace

The bodice of this gown is positively Grecian, but the skirt says fiesta. A goddess can really kick up her tranny heels with this gam-bearing confection, whether they’re dancing vertically, or more likely, horizontally in a pool of tiger blood.

Dries Van Noten

If anything, a goddess loves to feel powerful. What’s the point of all those Sheen-baiting gifts if you don’t show ‘em off once in a while, am I right? And nothing says “power” like a gold lamé pantsuit. Business-fabulous.

Gareth Pugh

This one’s for good ole Chuck Sheen, for whenever he grows tired of those baseball caps and poly blend button downs and wants to feel pretty while showing off that Adonis DNA

Mugler

Monster Mother Goddess, Lady Gaga, can certainly share some tips on dressing the part: after walking in the Mugler show she subsequently bought the entire collection. It’s doubtful that Natalie and Rachel could walk in these towering platforms, but they’re on Team Sheen and Team Sheen is all about winning. And winners don’t fall, except perhaps from grace.

Runway Photos: Style.com

Check out these googley-eyed manicures that were given to the models for Giles Deacon’s runway! All of the manicures were even multicolored! What do you think, too much or just perfect?

LINK LOVE: Nylon

I think it’s silly this dress was banned from the show because it’s not provocative at all. But I find great joy in any banning of Katy Perry whatsoever.

A full length shot of the dress on the Giles Deacon runway. Beautiful.

LINK LOVE: Coco Perez

“I kind of want to get myself into the spirit of the house,” Deacon tells WWD.

The 40-year-old designer will continue to produce his own line, as well as working with high street retailer New Look.

LINK LOVE: Giles Deacon Named Creative Director of Ungaro

JCReport editor Jason Campbell tweeted: It’s official Giles Deacon is in at Ungaro. Ungaro’s owner hopes to make the label sustainable and profitable by 2011, which is totally possible now that Lilo is out!

LINK LOVE: Fashionista

One of the big trends being seen on & off the runway is cat eye sunglasses. Alexander Wang’s spring collection showed some severe winged shades, with a metallic frame. Other designers, like Sonia Rykiel and Giles Deacon, had embellished frames.

If you’re looking for a more classic look that’s still eye-catching, then the pairs that Nikki Hilton and Scarlett Johansson wore would be perfect.

I’m loving this throw back to the 50s with a new, fresh twist.

Victoria’s Secret models Rosie Huntington-Whitely, Karolina Kurkova and Alessandra Ambrosio, who all walked for Prada last week,  strutted down the runway with Carmen Kass and Jessica Stam.

LINK LOVE: Elle UK

Dazed Digital spoke to Deacon about how Italy itself as a place has become central to his development as a designer and a brand. Read the interview here.

Designer and Pacman aficionado Giles Deacon has just made BANK!!! He’s just won some French award that will put €160,000 in his pocket. Nice job Giles, now if you need a little old fashion blog to put that money into, just let me know.

LINK LOVE:  My Fashion Life

In time for Spring/Summer 2010, Giles Deacon will be launching a jewelry line available at top department stores! Giles told Elle UK his plans for the line:

“In the past we did big show pieces, but these are very workable into everyday life.  [I took] elements or themes recurring in past collections and recreated them [so that] if a girl liked a particular collection, she’ll be able to buy jewellery that reminds her of it.”

The line is going to include some great stuff: an oversized gold spider ring, silver and gold cuffs with jewelled animal ears attached, as well as a multi-coloured crystal and feather statement necklace with matching bracelet. But if you’re after something more subtle, you’ll find it here too in the silver animal head pendants and chunky gold rings set with semi-precious stones.

Sounds AMAZING. I can’t wait to see it! Ready to wear some Giles jewels?

LINK LOVE: Elle UK

London’s prodigy designer, William Tempest, has me on structure overload with his meticulously constructed Fall 2009 collection. Having worked closely with Giles Deacon, Jean Charles de Castelbajac and Diesel, there is no questioning where the man gets his skill from. Utilizing several earthly elements inspired patterns, there is no doubt that Tempest’s Fall 2009 collection has a subdued version of earth,wind and fire on the brain. Unlike many designers, who’s work tends to be reworked before hitting the market, Tempest’s exact items are now available for purchase on Browns London!

GALLERY: RUNWAY RUNDOWN: William Tempest Fall 2009

Check out more from William Tempest here!

Giles Deacon’s jewellery designs for Atelier Swarovski are awesome, so original and unlike anything Swarovski would ever release on their own. Deacon uses 5mm felt so that none of the hardware reaches your skin, decorating the outside with safety pins and colorful studs.

SOURCE: Style bubble

GALLERY: RUNWAY RUNDOWN: Giles Fall 2009

LINKAGE: Style 

Giles released this thing into the fashion world this past weekend. It appears to be a black Grimace. For those unfamiliar with the McDonald’s mythology, Grimace was a purple four armed creature known for stealing Happy Meals from starving children and then proceeding to play with their cheap third-world made toys until the parts broke off. He and the Hamburgler then used to make sweet dirty love while juiced up on chunks of 6-month old dead cow and artificially flavored french fries. Later Grimace’s two extra hands (the evil ones) were removed and he began to enjoy a relationship with ringleader Ronald. Of course, one of his hands were the source of his intellegence and we quickly became a rather idiotic character who would often be the starting point of drama in Ronald McDonald Land. Anyway, yeah, this thing looks like a black Grimace, which means it looks really, really stupid. It also kind of looks like a penis if you squint a little bit. Either way, it’s pretty dumb.

Thanks Popgloss!