Haider Ackermann Spring 2010 felt a little like modern day military. Blacks, dark navys and subdued mustards comprised a collection that resembled army parachuters and front line soldiers. As always, loving the leather straps and angular, open front dresses.

1) Haider Ackermann lavender jacket with long slit skirt

2) Demeulemeester leather pant (shout out to my friend Marcel!)

3) Neneh Cherry redux at Gaultier

Love all three of these looks..how about you guys?

LINK LOVE: Elle Blog

Renzo Rosso (founder and owner of Diesel and majority owner of Maison Martin Margiela since 2002), has confirmed that Mr. Margiela is no longer with, or designing the collections:

“Martin has not been there for a long time,” Russo told WGSN. “He is here but not here. We have a new fresh design team on board. We are focusing on young, realistic energy for the future; this is really Margiela for the year 2015.”

Haider Ackermann is rumored to take the reigns.

With their Fall ‘09 collections having hit the runway, we’re expecting just as great of a show for Spring 2010 from these top 20 designers.

MAINSTREAMERS

Alexander McQueen:

Each of McQueen’s Fall ‘09 pieces were sculpted to perfection to create forms in unique patterns and versatile shapes.

Marc Jacobs:

Marc Jacobs was all about the bright colors with this collection. Grabbing inspiration from 80s fashion, the neon hues and big shoulders were a hit on the runway.

Prada:

With fur shapes, wool suits, and some knee high boots, Prada styles hit the runway in edgy fashion

Balenciaga:

With draped satin and silk, paired with fitted tops and flowy dresses, the Balenciaga collection was all about luxury and versatility.

Louis Vuitton:

Bubble skirts, coats, and a ton of accessories marched down the runway for Louis Vuitton Fall’09, of course, bright colors added that perfect touch on all pieces.

Donna Karan:

Fitted coats and long skirts accessorized with belts and necklaces produced a strong collection for Donna Karan this fall.

Alexander Wang:

Focusing mostly on blacks and whites, Alexander Wang explored much more with textures for fall ‘09. With each style paired with a matching accessory models looked the part from head to toe.

Moschino:

Ruffles and roses were at the forefront of Moschino’s line up for this Fall ‘09 collection. Navy and black dresses with a hint of red adds that special something to each piece.

Roberto Cavalli:

Lace leggings, fur jackets, and knitted fabrics were all part of Roberto Cavalli’s image for Fall ‘09.

Lanvin:

Leave it to Lanvin to let loose black gloves and intriguing silhouettes down the runway. With dresses and coats in beige, black, and white, the designer remembers the excitement of color with the occasional spark of red.

Proenza Schouler:

Though many designers stuck to inspiration of the past for Fall ‘09, Proenza Schouler kept it modern for the runway. High necks and fitted coats were all a part of the designers vision for the season.

Alexandre Herchcovitch:

Alexandre Herchcovitch was all about the idea of chaos for his fall ‘09 collection. Taking inspiration from big cities, multi-textured coats and printed dresses marched down the runway.

THE INDIE TEAM

A. F. Vandevorst:

For Fall ‘09 A.F. Vandevorst dreamt-up silk dresses and fur vests colored in quite a specific scheme. With trenches in variations of beige, green, and black it’s clear that this collection was one of a kind.

ADAM:

Releasing an array of colorful styles, ADAM put forth bright, upbeat separates for Fall ‘09.

Erdem:

It was all about embroidery and intense color for Erdem’s Fall ‘09 collection; lace and satin worked together to create ensembles fit for the runway.

Haider Ackermann:

With flowy dresses under more fitted and architectural coats, Haider Ackermann found that perfect line to combine edge and sophistication.

Ann Demeulemeester:

Stiff black works combined with soft white dresses allowed Ann Demeulemeester to explore the importance of balance for Fall ‘09.

Rodarte:

Working with pale schemes, leathers, and silk-screened styles, Rodarte lead a flood of breathe-taking dresses and skirts down the catwalk.

Phi:

Zippers and sequins were among Phi’s best looks for the Fall ‘09 season. Edgy styles made it clear that the collection was really for the strong and independent woman.

Albino:

Focusing on geometric shapes and silk dresses, bronze, black, and even a few bright-colored numbers made a strong statement when they took the runway.

Wake up and smell the coffee, people… Miss Androgynous is undoubtedly the girl to be, come fall 2009. Though SNL’s “Pat” is not the kind of androgynous you ought to be going for, Haider Ackermann’s Fall 2009 collection is subtly masculine, enough to fit the cue of this fall’s fashion trends while keeping the intrinsic docile femininity in every lady’s closet. As per usual, Ackermann sent out a collection focused on draping, wrapping and ruching. Dramatic, high side-slits, exposed backs and ruby/violet tones provided the femininity where slouchy, tuxedo pants and oversized blazers added a masculine margin. Need we question why this man is moving on up in the fashion industry? 

GALLERY: RUNWAY RUNDOWN: Haider Ackermann Fall 2009

LINKAGE: Style

Strutting down the catwalk to reveal the Spring/Summer ‘09 collection, models for Haider Ackermann have let the clothing on the loose! The line features dresses for a variety of people with all different styles and tastes. When it comes to Haider Ackermann and his recent collection, it’s clear that he prefers to pursue the architectural aspect of fashion design. The line focuses on a much more understated color palette with beiges and blacks for the two main color schemes. Wrapping the material and mending it to produce clear-cute fashions, it’s clear that Haider Ackermann has struck gold.