[i-D Magazine, Fall 2011]

Tilda givin’ a little twist in Another by Craig McDean.

1. Tilda Swinton

One of the most striking women in film, on the red carpet and in fashion spreads, look no further for Swinton’s editorial excellence than this month’s W.

Masculin/feminin by Tim Walker.

Harry Goodwins (Ford), Matthew Hitt (Wilhelmina), and Patrick O’Donnell (Models 1) mug playfully for this fantastically colorful spread for i-D Magazine, shot by Haruki Horikawa. The boys were styled by Mervyn Boriwondo, with makeup by Yoshitaka Miyazaki and hair by Gosia Byliniak.

Paint fight at the office later? I’m in.

Emmanuelle Alt © Garance Doré

Emmanuelle Alt is writing her own ticket for VOGUE Paris. I was not expecting a fundamental change in the Editorial Direction being that she has been the Fashion Director of the magazine for over ten years and collaborating with Carine Roitfeld. Thus the assumption that there would be little change from the status quo. However, the April 2011 issue of VOGUE Paris gives a clear new direction; bye bye porno chic, provocation, unjustified nudity, welcome softness, lifestyle, casual clothing. Emmanuelle’s approach is more consensual and obviously more commercial, which the fashion customer might find more accessible.

I want to show in French Vogue more and more a lot of clothes … It’s a different point of view, but nobody gave me a mission to change it or make it more commercial. she stressed in her WWD’s interview

Her vision of fashion is also conditioned by the choice of photographer she has decided to collaborate with and thus don’t expect any radical changes in those she has already worked with.

I want to keep the quality, the photographers we work with—David Sims, Mert and Marcus, Mario Testino, and Bruce Weber. I don’t think there should be radical changes. The magazine should still be chic and sophisticated. VOGUE.com interview

There has been one huge surprise however… The Return of Hans Feurer in VOGUE Paris is great news and a welcome change.

Hans Feurer ©DR

Hans Feurer’s style is easily recognizable:

• Outdoor shoots, long lenses, grainy film aspect, blurred background, sharp on the model (bokeh effect), sunrise or sunset light and often with the introduction of back light and flare.

This style was in “VOGUE” in the 70′s and 80′s and has come back in to fashion since certain internet bloggers started to photograph street fashion a few years ago. The styling often associated with his photography is ethnic, tribal in wildly natural spaces. However, he can express himself in a more urban environment as he did recently in French VOGUE with Supermodel Anja Rubik.

Anja Rubik by Hans Feurer for VOGUE Paris - April 2011

Feurer, a highly renowned fashion photographer in the 70s and 80s, is Swiss born and studied photography in London. In the ’60s, he became a photographer for British Vogue, Vogue Paris, US Vogue, Marie Claire, French Elle… He photographed most of the major supermodels from Claudia Schiffer to Laetitia Casta with Yasmeen Ghauri, Christy Turlington… He launched Amber Valletta in French Elle Magazine.

Who do you dream to photograph?

- I had the chance to work with the most beautiful women in the world from Pat Cleveland, Christy Turlington to Stephanie Seymour… Kate Moss is the only one that I haven’t photographed. Excerpt of his interview in the Contributor Section of French VOGUE April 2011.

I would add “so Far”… , but I have the feeling that with his statement in the Contributor Section of the magazine, this omission will be repaired quickly enough.

Some of his archives

In the early 60′s, he was assisted by French Photographer Patrick Demarchelier. Hans Feurer is also renowned for his collaboration with Kenzo for several of their Ad Campaigns in the 70′s and 80′s and was well known for his shooting of lingerie and swimsuits in a beach environment. In 1974, he directed the famous Pirelli Calendar.

Over the past few years Hans Feurer is back on track with magazines the likes of Numéro, I-D and VOGUE China, etc…

I really appreciate the fact that Emmanuelle Alt went for the original “Real Deal” photographer rather than one of the numerous copies amongst the younger fashion photographers emulating his and Eddy Kohli‘s style.

DIM Advertising © Eddy Kohli

Watch more photos from Hans Feurer in VOGUE Paris – April 2011

Here is the video of the 2005 edition of the International Fashion Photography Festival in Cannes, France with interviews of Hans Feurer, Jean-Daniel Lorieux, Benjamin Kanarek, amongst others.

Celebrities and Fashion have always been synonymous. However, today more than ever, fashion magazines are featuring more celebrities than immigrants trying to get into the USA for their Green Card. In many cases these highly regarded magazines are using celebrities more often than Super Models for their covers. There are many reasons for this and in my opinion some of those decisions have more to do with the Politics of Fashion than the notoriety of the Celebrity.

Why is it that some of the Biggy Fashion Mags don’t feature Super Models, but do feature Celebrities from all sectors of the Entertainment Industry?  I believe that it is because they can’t get the Super Models for their magazines. In fact their are very few magazines that can get Super Models and find it a lot easier to get Celebrities to adorn the covers of their ELLE’s, Marie Claire’s etc…

It is true that Celebs sell and can attract a large audience, but when it comes to the giants vying for THAT Top Model, that is where only a few of the Biggies like VOGUE, Harper’s BAZAAR, ELLE and a few other more obscure, but none the less important magazines like Numéro, V and perhaps L’Officiel can get on occasion.

Of course many would argue that the reason that this or that fashion magazine are shooting Lindsay Lohan, Britney Spears or Paris Hilton is because they sell magazines. That may be true, but I am quite sure that if all of the major and lesser influential fashion magazines attempted to compete for the creme de la creme of the modelling industry and could only get models and not celebrities, that the King of the heap would surface really quickly. You would see immediately by the standard of the models acquired who really rules the game.

Thus again the reason why Celebs act as a great draw that diverts the attention from the obvious omission from the covers of “Fashion” Magazines of Top Models. Why would a major fashion magazine want to be judged by their peers and the public based on the fact that so and so was on this magazines cover but not on theirs? Celebs are a kind of “Hey we have Paris on our cover wearing Gucci” and not “Hey we could only get so and so and so and so competitor Fashion magazine knows that we could only get so and so because of you know why…”

I am not saying that celebrities should not be on magazine covers. I am saying that a Fashion magazine should be a Fashion Magazine and not a people magazine. Models are part of the Fashion landscape and I am hoping that we can get back to the epoch where fashion magazines did what they did and did it well and leave the people’s magazines to People Magazine.

And lastly, celebrities seem to be more accessible than agents representing those models most of the fashion magazines would love to get on their covers but won’t. They and their PR people understand that the exposure they garner being seen on the cover of Redbook could aid in them getting their next big part in that 2012 blockbuster “Calender’s End”*

So the next time you see the cover of a magazine with a celeb on the cover, you may want to ask yourself, “Did they because they wanted to, or because so and so didn’t want to”.

* (I made that up)

by:Benjamin Kanarek

Edward Enninful‘s styling takes backseat to Jourlie’s (okay, it’s cute and I’m on board) lithe, lovely and leggy frames, but they reveal more than just their bodies in an interview with the mag.

Turns out Jourdan wants to start a line of jeans and Karlie wants to ruin her life have five kids, all boys. How…sweet.

Photos: Fashion Bomb Daily / Link Love: Modelina

Photos: Image Amplified

Photo: YVY Mag

Photo: Models.com

Find more photos like this on ENVY

LINK LOVE: Fashion Copious

Rihanna lands the cover of i-D’s next issue, which is all about Love, Sex, & Magic.

LINK LOVE: Fashion Copious

Fred Butler’s accessories have been seen in publications such as Dazed and Confused, i-D and Vogue. as well as the music world with special commissions for Patrick Wolf, Skin, Lady GaGa, Bishi, Little Boots, Beth Ditto and La Roux.

LINK LOVE: Fred Butler’s Paper Folds

Photographer: Richard Bush

Model: Anna Selezneva

Find more photos like this on CULT

Thanks Fashion Copious!

Yawn. Trying too hard…she’s got a nice body, at least.

SOURCE: Livejournal

Laetitia Negre shot Natasa Vojnovic for “My Pretty Seahorse” in the August 2009 issue of i-D. Natasa, photographed with closed eyes, seems to be sleepwalking through this dreamy, vintagey spread.

GALLERY: “My Pretty Seahorse,” i-D August 2009.

Alasdair McLellan shot Sigrid Agren for the pages of i-Ds 300th Anniversary issue.

SOURCE: newyorkmodelsblog

John-Paul Thurlow, artist and magazine cover graphic designer, is recasting his favorite covers with a bit of paper and a pencil. It’s images like these that make me wish I  could draw. Sigh. 

GALLERY: John-Paul Thurlow Goes Back To The Drawing Board

Thanks Cyana Trend Land and Pipeline! 

LINKAGE: off with head / dance till dead

Chanel Iman does her best close-up for the May 2009 cover of i-D magazine.

Shot by Kayt Jones, Chanel puts a glittery spin on the magazine’s trademark wink.  Love the feathers; Chanel looks like she’s on the hunt!

We’ve got an exclusive, behind the scenes look at i-D mags recent cover shoot featuring some of Britain’s top new faces and talents. Yeah, we just j’d in our p’s just thinking about it.

For the March issue of i-D you’ll have your choice of 12 cover girls, all English models: Kate Moss, Yasmin Le Bon, Alice Delllal, Lily Donaldson, Naomi Campbell, Eliza Cummings, Twiggy, Susie Bick, Daisy Lowe, Jourdan Dunn, Agyness Deyn, Stella Tennant.

Working with stylist Edward Enninful, Solve Sundsbo photographed each model completely differently (but all with the trademark wink), and each girl has her own cover quote.

From Fashion Copious.

For more about the cover and the issue, check out i-D here!

Cole Mohr

Ash Stymest

Tyler Riggs

Josh Beech

Dan Felton

I was flipping through old issues of i-D, Dazed and Confused and Men’s Vogue while I was home in Buffalo over the holiday weekend. I knew I spotted a trend among male models, but it didn’t hit me until I saw Cole Mohr on the Marc by Marc Jacobs billboard in SoHo one last time…

The Trend: baby-faced, skinny, tattooed, pierced, punk rocking models who look like they just got kicked out of the high school homecoming dance for reeking of cheap beer. Bingo. 

Punk boys have been all over the editorials and up and down the runways recently. I absolutely love the awkward, but adorable, high school dropout look…and It looks like I’m not the only one! With Marc Jacobs and Hedi Slimane as avid fans of this look, it seems that the baby-faced punks will be scoring high fashion editorials and shows for years to come. But sorry ladies, just because you look like a prepubescent rocker doesn’t mean your gauged ears and inked arms are fully acceptable in the high fashion industry. It’s unfair, I know…but that’s just the way it is. 

Thanks for the photos Models.com! 

US Harper’s Bazaar August 2008 : Jessica Biel by Peter Lindbergh

Allure August 2008 : Victoria Beckham by Michael Thompson

US Elle August 2008 : Mariah Carey

US InStyle August 2008 : by Robert Erdmann

Lucky August 2008 : Leighton Meester

US Marie Claire August 2008 : Maggie Gyllenhaal

US Glamour August 2008 : Christina Aguilera

Interview August 2008 : Eva Mendes by Mikael Jansson

US Cosmopolitan August 2008 : Scarlett Johansson

Vanity Fair August 2008 : Hollywood’s Next Wave by Mark Seliger

Vogue China August 2008 : Maggie Cheung by Mario Sorrenti

i-D August 2008 : Naomi Campbell & Stefano Pilati by Inez & Vinoodh