Lagerfeld, left, and Saint Laurent, center

Way before the advent of the Project Runways (and its alleged All-Stars), the The Fashion Shows and the Fashion Stars, there was one illustrious design competition that actually set out to do what those shows only dream of doing: producing a design superstar. In 1955, the Australian Wool Industry‘s International Wool Secretariat prize produced two, Lagerfed and Saint Laurent. Lagerfeld won in the coats category, Saint Laurent in the dresses category, and the rest is history.

A thousand years later, AWI wants to make wool hip again(?) and in the process give a  few lucky designers a couple thousand bucks. AWI will hold regional design contests in China, Australia, India, Italy, the UK and France, with each finalist receiving cash money towards their next collection and a chance to participate in the international final.

The international finalist will be crowned in March 2013 and will receive $100,000 to underwrite their next fashion show, and their collections will be sold in Harvey Nichols in the UK, Lane Crawford in China, Eickhoff in Germany and Bergdorf Goodman in the US.

The US judging will take place on July 9 in New York with a panel of judges that includes CFDA CEO Steven Kolb, Narciso Rodriguez and T: The New York Times Style Magazine EIC Sally Singer. The international judging will he held in September during London Fashion Week where Diane von Fursteberg and Vogue Italia editrix Franca Sozzani will be among the judges. Designers are required to submit sketches of a six-piece merino wool capsule collection with one outfit fully produced.

Kolb has said that the CFDA has already received some 25 applications, not just from emerging designers but also brands “who could use a boost.” Although we’re not talking about the Calvin Kleins but rather small business owners. So to paraphrase another famous fashion competition,  ”Designers, start your engines…and may the best merino…WIN!” [WWD, sub req'd]

Lagerfeld, left, and Saint Laurent, center

In a post on the magazine’s website, readers are urged to :

Create a blog – or, if you already have one, create a special section inside it – where you can discuss eating disorders, in which you can try to help and support young people suffering from these disorders, anorexia and bulimia, seeking alternatives or practical advice to support them.

Bloggers are then advised to leave their name, city and a link to their blog as well as a “phrase that represents you as authors” in the comments section, which Vogue Italia will use to create a global directory. The aim is to provide a support system for those suffering from eating disorders and to discredit the proliferation of pro-ana and pro-mia sites around the world.

What do you think of this initiative and should all bloggers feel inspired to participate?

- And speaking of makeovers, Burger King might be onto something with this stunner. [Buzzfeed]

- Vogue Italia‘s April cover celebrates prom looks and…masks. [Fashion Gone Rogue]

- Vogue Italia‘s EIC Franca Sozzani, it turns out, didn’t put a ring on it and is still a single lady. [Vogue Italia]

- While gyrating on American Idol last night, Nicki Minaj almost titted on ‘em. [Styleite]

- Christy Turlington is a mustachioed dream on the cover of Tatler. [The Cut]

- ABC thinks Madonna should cover up in her  new commercial for her “Truth or Dare” fragrance even if it means making her bra digitally bigger. Oh, they also want less writhing around. Because ABC’s never heard of or seen anything Madonna’s ever done. [Huff Po]

A forum dedicated to bashing the “nigger animal,” the hair shows are a source of ridicule and disgusting,  ignorant, racist ramblings from people who have yet to realize we live in a global society and yearn for the days of segregation, or even slavery. That hatred and just plain dumbass bullshit like this exists in this day and age is a sad commentary on the state of America.

But take a look at the people pictured in those posts. There’s a pride in their expression and a comfort in their bearing that defies the inane criticism of a few narrowminded idiots. Hair shows are a celebration of black culture and not everyone understands it — not even some black people. Yet in paying homage to that celebration, Vogue Italia was in turn celebrating black culture; its “extravagance”, as Franca Sozzani puts it, and its creativity.

With that said, could they have used some more black/ethnically-diverse models? Sure, but if it was an all black spread, would it be perceived as being any less “racist”? I suppose the opposite would hold true. Then Sozzani and co. would be accused of exploiting black models.

Race is still clearly a highly sensitive issue, particularly in the U.S., but one of the things that makes this country great is freedom of expression. And if that expression takes the form of a weave in the shape of a helicopter, I can think of a lot of things more offensive, and a lot less fun, than that.

Now let’s look at some fierce hair because I’m seriously considering that Hello Kitty jump-off.

Rebekah Wood at the Bronner Bros. Hair & Beauty Mid-Winter 2011 Show at the GWCC on Saturday, Feb. 20, 2011.

090222 ATLANTA, GA - Lacher Reeves models "Queen of the Corn" hair style by Christopher Fountain of Connecticut in the Fantasy Hair Competition during the Bronner Bros. International Hair Show at the Georgia World Congress Center on Sunday February, 22, 2009. Fountain's creation, that included a dress made of braided hair, won first place. All of the over-the-top hair styles were inspired by a certain theme or character. JESSICA MCGOWAN / jmcgowan@ajc.com

090222 ATLANTA, GA - Ronika Watson models a Crown Royal inspired hair style created by Dallas Crum of Powder Springs in the Fantasy Hair Competition during the Bronner Bros. International Hair Show at the Georgia World Congress Center on Sunday February, 22, 2009. Crum's creation placed third in the competition. All of the over-the-top hair styles were inspired by a certain theme or character. JESSICA MCGOWAN / jmcgowan@ajc.com

Quanetia Johnson shows her eyelash inspired hairdo.

090222 ATLANTA, GA - Tashara Lewis models the "Royal Peacock" hair style by Temesha Debardladon (cq) of Birmingham during the Fantasy Hair Competition during the Bronner Bros. International Hair Show at the Georgia World Congress Center on Sunday February, 22, 2009. All of the over-the-top hair styles were inspired by a certain theme or character. JESSICA MCGOWAN / jmcgowan@ajc.com

090222 ATLANTA, GA - Kierra Townsend models the "Sponge Bob Square Pants" hair style by Tammy Pettigrew (cq) of Mississippi in the Fantasy Hair Competition during the Bronner Bros. International Hair Show at the Georgia World Congress Center on Sunday February, 22, 2009. All of the over-the-top hair styles were inspired by a certain theme or character. JESSICA MCGOWAN / jmcgowan@ajc.com

The looks in “Haute Mess” certainly make a statement and that statement is hot tranny mess realness. Literally. In her always entertaining blog, Sozzani wrote that the spread might take its inspiration from “messy drags: untidy, dishevelled, counter-intuitive cross-dressers.” And that’s inspiration you can take to the bank. The Cut caught up with Sozzani, who by this point is more than accustomed to courting controversy, to discuss the editorial.

In typical frank Franca fashion, she utterly dismissed it as a bit of hubub over nothing.

“We wanted to make something quite extravagant,” the editrix explained. “It’s more to push people to be creative and extravagant…we just thought it was the concept of extravagance, of creativity, even something over-the-top, something that is not usual. If you want, you don’t dress like that, you don’t put on this kind of makeup, but it’s just to make a fake, to go over-the-top, it makes you happy in a way, more alive, more colorful — sometimes fashion looks sad.”

As for the backlash, Sozzani openly doesn’t give a damn: “I think it’s good that everyone sees what they wanted to see. As you know, I don’t care as much what people think, because I think that every time that you try to change something, people [say something else]. I respect everybody’s opinion.”

Well, maybe not everyone’s opinion. When asked about people who found the images classist and offensive, Sozzani shut that down real quick: ”There are so many sick people around the world that you cannot — I don’t care about them. I care about normal people. They want to read and see the normal way as we did. If they are sick, it’s not my problem. I am not a psychologist. They should find somebody who could help them.”

While Sozzani doesn’t rank “Haute Mess”as one of her most controversial spreads, she insists that wasn’t what she was going for to begin with: “It’s not that I want it to be controversial all the time, it’s happened. … You can just take pictures like in a catalog so you will never be controversial, but that’s not my choice of life.”

You certainly can’t fault Franca Sozzani for sticking to her guns, but what do you think? Is “Haute Mess” offensive — whether intentional or not — or just over-the-top fun? Click through for the entire editorial and sound off in the comments below.

Photos: Design Scene

Balenciaga Spanish Master Exhibit

Banana Republic

W Magazine

Calvin Klein

Chanel

Dolce & Gabbana

Fendi

Marc Jacobs Spring 2010

Nicki Minaj in W

Prada

Marc Jacobs Spring 2008

Marc Jacobs Fall 2007

Joaquín Sorolla and the Glory of Spanish Dress

T Magazine

Vogue Italia

Marc Jacobs Spring 2007

Marc Jacobs Spring 2009

DSquared

- Parsons took on FIT in their annual student designer competition, the Fusion Fashion Show, with Parsons strutting home the victor. [Paper]

- Brazilian hoofer Caroline Trentini editorially jumped the broom this weekend, marrying photographer Fabio Bartelt. [Made in Brazil]

- John Galliano’s still lurking around Paris, as dandy as he wants to be in a beanie and pencil-thin moustache. [WWD]

- Marc Jacobs pays his models in “trade,” i.e. clothes and judging from his last collection, a lot of girls went home severely underpaid. [Huff Po]

- Human Care Bear Alber Elbaz broke out his singing chops during his tenth anniversary party and then a glitter rainbow shot out from his bowtie. [Grazia]

- Vogue Italia‘s editrix-in-chic Franca Sozzani will receive France’s highest civilian honor, the Legion of Honor, which she will hopefully turn into a cocktail ring used to slap insolent interns. And she’ll call it “getting honored.” [The Cut]

- Suzy Menkes thinks Christopher Kane could be in line to take over Dior. Then again, Stefano Pilati has some free time on his hands these days. [Vogue UK]

- Joan Smalls is the first black model to cover Vogue Italia since the epic “Black Issue” in 2008. And wouldn’t you know it, that bitch stole my look. [Huff Po]

- According to Jennifer Lopez‘s stylist, the nip did not actually slip during the Oscars. Meanwhile, I’m surprised J. Lo let her get out that blatant lie before firing her. [People]

- Proving that a cat eye works wonders, Katy Perry looks very much not like Katy Perry on the cover of Interview. And that’s clearly a good thing. [ONTD!]

- The world came to a stop when it’s most famous baby, Blue Ivy, took her first public stroll with mom Beyoncé. She’ll be flipping off paparazzi by the time she’s teething. [Just Jared]

“Lagos defies logic. It’s an immensely frustrating place to be. The corruption, homophobia and traffic are a joke, and everything else seems fake, broken or breaking. But the young people are delicious. The models are heavenly, and the way they dance to Nigerian ‘dancehall’ is mind-boggling. No one got paid at this fashion week, but no one seemed to care either. There’s nowhere else like it.”

The models truly are heavenly as Nigeria’s greatest natural resource is clearly its stunning youth. Literally, pluck any girl from the low-rent, no budget knockoff of America’s Next Top Model — imaginatively titled Africa’s Next Supermodel — and throw her on the runway or the cover of Italian Vogue. And the men, while hopelessly narcissistic, kind of have the right to be — just take a look at the part of the episode where some male models discuss the endowment of Nigerian men. Cocky doesn’t even begin to describe it.

Check out the season finale of Fashion Week Internationale below and make sure to catch up on any episodes you might have missed:

Cambodia

Las Vegas

Colombia

Islamabad/New York Full-Figured Fashion Week

Photos: Vogue Italia

1. The photos were not Photoshopped.

2. People don’t understand the different angles at which the body can be shot.

3. Karlie is not anorexic but actually quite muscular. Franca then goes off on a tangent about Kloss’ “buttocks” and supports Kloss’ healthy body with her status as a Victoria’s Secret model.

4. Sozzani, ironically, wanted to avoid a senseless debate because she is “aware of the fact that people can easily attach labels without thinking.” She then goes on to admit: “I made a mistake. I had to do what I thought was right, that is leave the picture and let everybody express their opinion freely. The picture is beautiful and that’s all.”

5.  The editrix is a staunch advocate against pro-anorexia websites but instead of giving up on “experimental” photos such as this, she’d rather offer a course educating people about the history of photography.

6.  Next time, just say it to her goddamn face: “Before talking, why not just ask? I would have answered your doubts before, without causing so many pointless remarks.”

Karlie, for her part, didn’t understand the controversy at all. She thought the photos were beautiful and was very proud and happy with the way the shoot turned out.

Well, what do you think, readers? Was Franca Sozzani right to take down the photo or are people just being a bunch of Negative Nancies? [Vogue Italia]

To be perfectly honest, the female body frightens and discomforts me. But even I must marvel at the amazing work of art that is a naked Karlie Kloss — emaciated yet at the same time muscular (no doubt from all those years of ballet) with bafflingly long limbs, her body defies the laws of physics and perhaps even Photoshop. In between moments of undress, fashion editor Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele tries to cover the teen up in looks by Michael Kors, Louis Vuitton, Max Mara and Roberto Cavalli.

But really, who’s looking at the clothes?

Photos: Fashion Gone Rogue

ZImms goes about her daily commute which includes hunching and posing elaborately — much like my daily commute — but with the added factor of hunky police offers stuffing passengers into already crowded cars like it’s modern day Japan or something. It’s times like those when you just throw your hands up, call in sick and head to whatever bar’s open. But Raquel is a pro — and is wearing head-to-toe designer — so she could probably just call a cab and bypass the MTA, or as I affectionately refer to it, the bane of my existence.

Photos: Vogue Italia

Gareth Pugh

Prada

Numêro / Models.com

W's "Transformers" by Steven Meisel

Pop Magazine Fall/Winter 2011 by Gillian Wearing / Models.com

Versace x H&M

Versace spring 2011

cK One spring 2011

Balenciaga spring 2011 runway

Barney

Harper's Bazaar Australia November 2011 / Models.com

Models.com

Vogue September 2011 / Fashion Gone Rogue

Users must register on Vogue.it and from there they can suggest article ideas as well as add to and revise already published content. Every article has a byline and all submissions will be reviewed by a Vogue staffer.

“We are trying not to misinterpret your articles, but some must be necessarily edited and you must accept it, not feel criticized and try to understand you are being assisted by an experienced staff,” Sozzani wrote before the launch of Encyclo in her always entertaining blog. So far the editrix is happy with what she sees and has plans to dedicate a page of Vogue Italia to “a recap of the best themes.”

Franca Sozzani, more than any other editor, Vogue or otherwise, always seems to be on the cusp and with Vogue Encyclo she purports to foster a new generation of journalists: “I cannot solve all your problems, but I do believe that through a regular collaboration with this project you may gain experience and demonstrate you are capable of writing for a magazine.” [WWD]

Photo: Trendland

Italian designers are forming a united front to decide on their own dates, out of the three following options: 1.) move to July; 2.) show before New York in September; or 3.) leave things the way they are, which could mean an overlap between Milan and London.

Condé Nast, for its part, is not having any of this. In a letter to Mario Boselli, head of the Italian Chamber of Fashion ”obtained”  – *cough* stolen *cough*– by WWD, CEO Jonathan Newhouse writes that Vogue editors “like the schedule the way it is presently organized. We at Condé Nast do not want the schedule to be changed. We very much oppose moving the Milan shows earlier so that they overlap or conflict with the London fashion shows — or with the New York fashion shows or those of any market.”

Newhouse then goes on to basically threaten a boycott by all Vogue editors — American, British, French and Italian — of Milan shows, stating matter-of-factly that “they will not under any circumstances abandon the London or New York shows if the Milan shows are moved earlier.”

The root of the conflict stems from a pact in 2008 when all four cities agreed to kick-off the fashion weeks on the second Thursday of February and September. Boselli claims that the agreement was only for three years while the CFDA‘s Steven Kolb and the British Fashion Council‘s Caroline Rush contend that it was indeed a permanent arrangement.

As for the fromage standing alone, Paris is expected to side with Milan. However, Didier Grumbach, head of the Chambre Syndicale, would rather come to a compromise and wants everyone to just chill the eff out: “When planning our schedules we have to factor in the time constraints of houses such as Jean Paul Gaultier or Givenchy that deliver couture, men’s and women’s shows with one designer. In any case, these things can’t be improvised. We have our locations. To move dates on venues like the Grand Palais cannot be improvised. Those dates are decided months and months in advance. If [anyone wants to] move dates for 2013, why not, we have the time to talk about it, to arrange it.”

Frankly, it’s a little odd that London is siding with New York considering the hubbub over model castings earlier this season, with London designers blaming New York for hogging all the best girls and the general feeling that LFW was being squeezed out. Now it seems Milan is feeling the crunch and are going to have to come to a decision soon or face the wrath of Wintour. [WWD, sub req'd]

Photo: Trendland

Photos: Fashion Gone Rogue

- Lindsay Lohan continues to be employable, if only by German fashion houses you’ve never heard of/care about. This can’t go well, particularly considering the first sentence of the press release announcing Lilo’s participation in Philipp Plein‘s spring campaign: “Lindsay is a beautiful, highly acclaimed actress and model.” Who are we lying to Philipp Plein? [Styleite]

- Frida Gustavsson is GORGEOUS on Paolo Roversi‘s cover of Vogue Italia‘s Couture Supplement, giving us a little flapper chic and some serious face. [Fashion Gone Rogue]

- Designer Alice Temperley thinks London Fashion Week is better than New York Fashion Week and should be longer. Meanwhile, preaching to the choir, girlfriend. [Telegraph]

- Girls fall on the runway every season and, honestly, it’s always a highlight. But turns out taking a catwalk misstep could land a girl face down in unemployment. [Daily Mail]

- Which is why they should take a cue from the pros, like Liu Wen and Jourdan Dunn, who reveal how they traveresed the trricky runways of Jason Wu and Alexander Wang, respectively. [The Cut]

- The Mulleavy sisters realize their own style is boring and thus don’t design Rodarte for themselves. [Fashionista]

- Zach Galifianakis put down the bong long enough to design a handbag. Or maybe he just put the bong in the handbag. [Fashionista]

- Tom Ford‘s secretive spring 2012 show took place Sunday and while we have to wait for the photos to pop up — in a welcome change — at least one reporter’s not seeing the emperor’s new clothes. [The Cut]

- Among Franca Sozzani‘s many (?) fans: Anna Wintour, who claims Sozzani “completely and utterly understands that Vogue is about much more than editing a magazine every month.” [Time]

- Justin Timberlake and Mila Kunis want you to know there were no dicks in a box — or boxes — between the two of them. [Just Jared]

- Away from the “chiffon trenches of fashion,” André Leon Talley finds solace upstate in Hastings-on-Hudson where his favorite store is The Container Store, in which he shops for paper “to wrap Whoopi Goldberg’s presents.” A normal life if there ever was one. [NYT]

- Franca Sozzani, editrix-in-chief of Vogue Italia and all-around bad bitch thinks Dior should just hire back Galliano. And as usual, she’s right. [Daily Beast]

- In Saudi Arabia, hands off the girls. Men are now outlawed from selling lingerie. [Styleite]

- Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen have partnered with Steve Madden to become creative directors of Superga, an upscale version of which will be launched with The Row‘s spring 2012 collection. [Fashionologie]

- The next generation of It girls is pretty much fucked. [Styleite]

- Anna Wintour‘s been in a great mood this Fashion Week. Something awful is about to happen, isn’t it? [Refinery29]

Vogue Italia‘s “Day and Night,” left; W‘s “Transformers,” right

The two shoots are not completely alike; after all W used 10 models including Linda Evangelista, Karen Elson and Jessica Stam, while Vogue Italia only used Zimmermann. And Karl Templer styled for Vogue Italia while Edward Enninful styled for W.

Still, the theme, and even some of the poses, of the two spreads are remarkably similar and they’re both in black and white, thus making the similarities even more apparent.

Sure this doesn’t seem like that big of a deal — fashion continually recycles itself, even if after only a month — but WWD, at least, thinks there might be repercussions:

“The fallout will be worth watching. If it damages W’s relationship with Meisel, [Stefano] Tonchi will lose out on a big-name photographer he’s craved for the magazine. If Tonchi doesn’t act, it will demonstrate the lengths a fashion magazine editor will go to appease a photographer who holds considerable influence in the industry.”

What’s Tonchi going to do, go to Condé Nast and issue a recall of all August Italian Vogues? Mesiel’s a brilliant photog — he just got a little lazy. It happens to the best of us. I got lazy when it came to the conclusion of this post…The End. [WWD]

Draped in a dark palette of mostly blacks and navy blues with the occasional neon hair statement, Klein is channeling a little film noir by way of Alfred Hitchcock — Vertigo especially comes to mind…for obvious reasons.

For instance, Coco Rocha and Sean O’Pry dancing all over Venice for Americana Manhasset is 10 times more interesting than the ad itself.

Call of the wild

Tilda givin’ a little twist in Another by Craig McDean.

1. Tilda Swinton

One of the most striking women in film, on the red carpet and in fashion spreads, look no further for Swinton’s editorial excellence than this month’s W.

Masculin/feminin by Tim Walker.

Photo: Zimbio

They will be joined by Condé Nast International chairman, Jonathan Newhouse, to form Voguetron show support for the country’s ravaged economy and fashion industry. This show of support includes a gala dinner for fashion executives, celebrities and VIPS on November 4th and Anna will once again miss my birthday when the next day she and the other Vogue ladies attend the Tokyo FNO. [WWD]

Photos: Vogue.it

On hand to toast Wintour — who never met a Chanel bouclé tweed she didn’t drape over her frail back — were Karl Lagerfeld, Donatella Versace with bff Riccardo Tisci — fresh off his glorious fall 2011 haute couture collection for Givenchy – Lanvin‘s Alber Elbaz, Anna’s Italian counterpart Franca Sozzani, Mario Testino, LVMH head honcho Bernard Arnault, YSL‘s Stefano Pilati, Burberry‘s Christopher Bailey,  Tommy Hilfiger, professional dandy and Vogue‘s editor-at-large Hamish Bowles and the Rhoda to Anna’s Mary, Grace Coddington.

According to the Kaiser, “We had this very nice cocktail, where Anna made a very funny speech.” I have a hard time believing at least one of those facts. [WWD]

Click through for more picture from Vogue Italia that were apparently taken by a drunk intern with an iPhone.

Speaking with the Huffington Post, Enninful notes that while there are “still very few black people,” the American fashion industry has reassessed its approach to fashion. And who else do we have to thank but that certified brick house of a Fierce Lady, Michelle Obama:

“You know, for one of the most influential women in the country to be black. I know that meant a great deal to a lot of black people in the fashion industry. And also now we have Twitter, we have the internet, and I’ve seen so many young black people who are involved in fashion. They’re making their own clothes, they’re styling, they’re taking photographs, and I guess the future generation to come, they’re all racing to become one global fashion industry. That’s what I hope, anyway.”

Enninful goes on to describe working with Franca Sozzani on the now legendary “Black Issue” of Vogue Italia, claiming the editix “put her money where her mouth is”:

“She continued to feature black models, she continued to feature different body types or body shapes. She continued to challenge the norm, which is the question that we’ve been talking about, and I feel that’s what we want to take from W as well. We want to make everybody a part of the after-party.”

It’s kind of ridiculous that it’s 2011 and we’re still discussing racism at all, let alone racism in an industry as forward-thinking and revolutionary as fashion. Andrej Pejic just did double duty in mens and womenswear during São Paulo Fashion Week, after all.

Luckily there are people like Ed Enninful leading the way towards a new ethnically rich and diverse fashion frontier. [HuffPo]

-Though he will be standing trial as she stands at the altar, Kate Moss reportedly still wants a John Galliano gown. So much so that the designer’s boyfriend Alexis Roche has stepped in to complete the couture while Galliano goes to court. [Daily Mail]

- Kate might not want to do without John, but Christian Dior is somehow managing, staging their first cruise collection without him. [WWD]

- After photos of a nude brick house purported to be Blake Lively leaked online, the actress and Chanel ambassador’s publicist denied her client’s invovlement, claiming, “Blake has never taken nude photos of herself.” Okay, I can believe that that isn’t Blake in those pics, but never took  a nude photo of herself? Bitch, please. [Yahoo! News]

- And what does a Chanel ambassador do, exactly? According to fellow ambassador, Vanessa Traina: “I basically just formulated a relationship with them, and they introduced me to their line of products and they send things to me before the collections come out. It’s up to me whether or not I like them, or whether or not I wear them.” Um, that’s one of the sweetest deals I’ve ever heard. [Into the Gloss]

- Is Gisele the Oprah of the modeling world? Mrs. Brady may be on track to be the world’s first billionaire supermodel and first female self-made Brazilian billionaire. She’ll be hauling around  a wagon of her old fat in no time. [The Cut]

- Money doesn’t mean much to Lady Gaga which explains why she kinda OD’d on the sets and costumes for her Monster’s Ball tour: “I called everybody and said, ‘Why is every­one saying I have no money? This is ridiculous, I have five number one singles’ – and they said, ‘Well, you’re $3m in debt.’” Those McQueen armadillo heels don’t come cheap. [Refinery29]

In collaboration with Vogue Italia, Campbell staged the runway show in Cannes and paraded looks by Yves Saint Laurent, Marchesa and Alexander McQueen.

Fonda, who at 73 gave a lot of the other models a runway run for their money — particularly these girls — came out to raucous applause as she closed the show in a Marchesa gown. [Telegraph]

Photos: Vogue Italia.it

- Daphne Guinness insists that she’s not Dita von Teese, referencing her upcoming stunt dressing for the Met Ball in Barney’s store window on May 2nd. She insists on modesty, saying that she’ll be “getting dressed behind something.” Guinness will of course be wearing Alexander McQueen to honor the late designer’s Savage Beauty.  [NYT]

- When you make Time‘s 100 Most Influential People list, dying your hair red is apparently front page news, especially if you’re a renowned purse ambassador for Chanel like Blake Lively. [Refinery29]

- Speaking of Chanel, PoshGlam takes a look inside of celebrity stylist Anya Sarre‘s quilted Chanel bag, which is decidedly more posh and glam than the insides of our bags. [PoshGlam]

- If like me you’re wondering what kind of rug Prince Charles will cut at the Royal Wedding, wonder no further: it’ll be a funky rug. [Styleite]

- America’s Next Top Model is returning for its 145th cycle and Tyra‘s bringing back “models who became breakout characters and who had the most memorable stories from past seasons,” i.e. the top models who have nothing better to do. Which is pretty much all of them. [USA Today]

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Mandatory Credit: Photo by Rex USA ( 762774c ) Blake Lively Time magazine's 100 Most Influential People in the World Gala, New York, America - 26 Apr 2011 762774c

- What with the massive earthquake, massive aftershocks and subsequent tsunami, Japan Fashion Week had to take a bit of a backseat. But the Japanese fashion industry won’t let Mother Nature torrentially rain on their parade. Designers have joined forces to form Voltron a website featuring all of their collections for the Fall 2011 season. [The Cut]

- Beloved royal ginger (seriously, who’s his dad?) Prince Harry is not slacking off on his best man duties. As the self-appointed “wedmin,” Harry has had three state rooms in Buckingham Palace converted into a nightclub with a DJ playing well into the morning hours. For those still standing, there will be a 6 a.m. “survivor’s breakfast.” Oh, and this is also happening:

A chest full of booze, namely rum and champagne. Meanwhile, Kate Middleton might have found her soulmate in Prince William, but I just fell head over tranny heels for Harry. [Daily Mail]

- American Apparel has hired a new retail executive in Marty Staff to dig them out of the clusterfuck known as their crippling debt. With a reported net loss of $67 million over the first nine months of 2010, they’ll need a very large shovel. Perhaps CEO Dov Charney can start funneling some money from his secret sex slave ring to boost revenue. I’m not saying break up the sex slave ring, god forbid, but this is the age of synergy. A sex slave sweat shop, perhaps? [The Cut]

- Vogue Italia‘s EIC, Franca Sozzani wags her bony little finger at pro–anorexia websites for propagating eating disorders in young girls while defending  designers who altruistically “discard those [models] who are visibly suffering from nutritional problems.” Well, as long as they’re discarded…. [Vogue.it]

Shot by Ellen Von Unwerth, Tyra took time out of her busy smizing schedule to write the accompanying story. Ann looks incredible and brought that weird, angular posing that kept her at the head of the Top Model pack to the pages of Italian Vogue. All Ann needs now is a few high profile runways next season and she’ll land the cover by the end of the year. So ALT speaketh, so shall it be.

Photos: Stylite

- Rumor has it Carine Roitfeld was banned from Paris Fashion Week after Condé Nast big-wig Jonathan Newhouse fired off a letter asking designers not to invite the ex-editrix as it “might send a confusing message.” In other news, Emmanuelle Alt recently graduated from an at-home signature forgery class. [Hint]

- Speaking of Alt, her first cover of Vogue Paris has hit the interwebs. Gisele looks great as usual, but this could easily be American Vogue and I could easily fall asleep looking at it. [Models.com]

- And speaking of American Vogue covers I hate, ladies and gentlewomen, Rihanna. [Twitter]

- I’m as excited for the Royal Wedding as the next gal, but some people are seriously starting to OD. [Beautylish]

- One of John Galliano‘s “victims” feels kind of bad that he might have ruined the designer’s career and doesn’t think he’s really a racist or anti-Semite. Thanks for your swift action regarding this matter. [Huffington Post]

- Japan really can’t catch a  break today. [BBC]

- And in equally tragic news, Jessica Biel and Justin Timberlake have called it a day on their relationship. Personally, I think J-Tims looks better without a beard. [People]

-But as usual, Charlie Sheen provides the light at the end of the tunnel. Reports of the actor/hooker connoisseur’s death have been grossly exaggerated…by a virus spreading through Facebook. Now if this were the only the first time that we caught something contagious after poking Charlie Sheen…. [HuffPo]

@rihanna: My bad ci, did I 4get to tip u? #howrudeofme

[@LesFabian: Ouch. #bitch]

@rihanna: U gangsta huh? Haaa

@ciara: Trust me Rihanna you don’t want to see me on or off the stage.

@rihanna: Good luck with bookin that stage u speak of

[@LesFabian: Oh snap! #BURN]

@ciara: pure comedy…

[@LesFabian: #nocomeback]

@rihanna: Ciara baby, I love u girl! U hurt my feelings real bad on TV! I’m heartbroken! That’s y I retaliated this way! So sorry!

[@LesFabian: How...sweet... #lyingherfaceoff]

@ciara: Rhi, u know its always been love since day 1! Doing shows and everything. You threw me off in that party! Apology accepted. Let’s chat in person.

[@LesFabian: Translation: Bitch, wait til I twist my fingers through that troll doll hair. #illcutabitch]

Things have calmed down dramatically since then, but whenever divas duel it out in the public arena, there is an inevitable choosing of sides and bitter argument over who’s better, blah, blah blah.

Well, since I live for these moments, I’ve decided the only logical way to determine who is the baddest bitch on the block (clearly not including Beyoncé who could blink and take out both of them) is to compare both RiRi’s and CiCi’s editorials from European Vogues…naturally.

Rihanna covered Vogue Italia‘s special couture supplement in 2009, shot by the incredible Steven Klein and styled by Patti Wilson:

Then last year, Givenchy creative director Riccardo Tisci styled Ciara for a Vogue Paris shoot with the dynamic duo of Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott.

For me, the answer is clear. Ciara’s editorial easily trumps Rihanna’s, achieving a poetic and sensual beauty that’s more effective than the hard, technical sexuality of the Klein shoot. Which is not to say that both spreads aren’t great, but Ciara possesses a grace and classic beauty that makes her actually look like a model and not just a moonlighting popstar in it for some free couture.

Plus, she totally gets extra points because Riccardo said this about her:

“Ciara is like a black Betty Page. A very refined hip hop queen. Although she is American, she has a sort of European class, a Parisian chic.”

Musing for Givenchy beats out openly stealing from David LaChappelle any day of the week.

Italian Vogue‘s EIC, Franca Sozzani addressed the issue of discrimination in the fashion industry on her amazing blog last week, asking “Is skin color still an issue?”:

“We continue to give it [diversity] more space in the magazine and website. The truth is that real beauty doesn’t care for skin color or nationality.”

For Sozzani there is no issue of race, no issue of discrimination and she wonders why readers think it’s “such an issue to choose black models?”

Well, the answer is simple. For so long, beauty was defined by a specific type of girl; designers and magazines only chose skinny, non-distinct Eastern European girls which became the industry standard.

The trend is slowly shifting, but it’s difficult to change the perception of fashion being particularly racist when the industry itself is responsible for the proliferation of that perception.

So in reaction to this homogeneity, any time there is an editorial exclusively featuring black models the inevitable debate begins anew:  is this a matter of progress or exploitation?

I’d like to think it’s progress. It’s incredibly important and inspiring to see beauty represented in all forms and all colors, for society and for the fashion industry. Everyone needs to see themselves reflected in ads and editorials in order to feel beautiful and to feel that they too are respected consumers.

And furthermore, after looking at pale, emaciated human hangers for all those seasons, I think we could all use an injection of, dare I say, color.

Check out the rest of the editorial — a jazz-inspired romp through the Harlem Renaissance — shot by Emma Summerton and styled by Edward Enninful at Lookbooks!

Photos: Vogue.it / Link Love: Style House Files

You may have heard that the fourth season of MTV‘s pop culture juggernaut, the Jersey Shore will be filming in Italy. Italians, for reasons I cannot begin to comprehend, are none too pleased about this. But luckily Franca is around to explain:

“It doesn’t make us [Italians] look too good, and no matter how many protests there are in Italy, the series is a great success. It looks incredible that whatever is ugly, cheap, ignorant, foul, and doesn’t make much sense other than being seen…young people screaming and fighting, insulting each other, get drunk and make love, is a success. It’s like that. And they get success.”

The success of the Jersey Shore is no doubt baffling to anyone with an IQ above, oh, 30, but as a devotee of the show — yeah, I’ll admit it publicly — I derive a great amount of pleasure in seeing people who clearly have never heard of “self-awareness” going through the motions of their petty dramas, fights and inevitable reconciliations all while drenched in Jose Cuervo.

“Why does ugliness attract, and especially a young audience? What’s so interesting about watching ugly people, poorly dressed, and that speak vulgar? Why should anyone fall down to that level? It’s sounds impossible that people would want to lower themselves this much. It’s ignorance, lack of real interests.”

I’m not sure if Sozzani’s referring to their looks or their behavior when she calls them ugly, but we as human beings loves to see someone — not ourselves , god forbid — “fall down to that level” and act vulgar. Not only does it make you feel superior, but that behavior allows you to live vicariously through these characters — and at this point, they’ve all become caricatures of themselves.

You may have the worst day, have broken up with your significant other, lost a job, what have you, but there’s something comforting in seeing Snooki wasted, yet again, in a nightclub wearing what could barely pass for a dress, falling down and getting arrested. You can experience that hedonism without directly suffering the consequences.

I, however, am not Italian — and for that matter, neither is half the cast of the Shore — and Franca seems to think that their actions are a reflection on Italians. A very poor reflection at that.

“Is this what they think of us abroad? Apparently, yes.”

On this point, I would have to say Sozzani is way off the mark. The Jersey Shore doesn’t depict life as an Italian-American, it depicts life as a guido; that special subset of Italian-American culture that revels in spray tans, big hair, gorilla juiceheads and smooshing. And who, for their credit, are damn proud of it.

When I think of Italy, I still think of a country rich in history and culture; I think of Italy as I’ve seen in it in Fellini films; gorgeous men in tight pants riding around on vespas; gorgeous, dark eyed women with impossible curves gyrating seductively to a mandolin. But then again, I’ve never been to Italy.

Franca Sozzani believes Italy has culture, but she’s shocked that “there is a lot of trash.” Well, sister, how do you think we feel? America spawned the Jersey Shore and the culture it documents/lampoons. We’re the garbage dump; Italy is a wastebasket in comparison.

Link Love: Vogue.it

In her broken English — or badly translated Italian — Sozzani extols the virtues of Yves Saint Laurent‘s nakedness, Stephanie Seymour‘s snatch, and the artistic nudes of Helmut Newton and Richard Avedon.

They knew how to be naked back then!

She then goes on to call Terry Richardson and Juergen Teller trashy and blame them for transforming nudes into “something sexy and crude rather than glossy.” Whatever “glossy” is supposed to mean.

The editrix then goes on to attack the Tom Ford-helmed issue of Vogue Paris, featuring a wide range of exploitation:

“How about little girls? Wearing heavy make up, sexy clothes, posing in poses that are outrageous for their age.”

Sozzani seems to think that the pinnacle of child exploitation was in the 80s Brooke Shields pedo-fest, Pretty Baby, as “the images were actually romantic for the harsh reality [baby prostitution] portrayed in them.”

And as for those naked elderly people, she’d prefer they keep their wrinkly birthday suits covered up, thank you very much.

Franca Sozzani’s point in all of this is that the images being presented should say something and not just shock for the hell of it.  I love a nude male model as much as the next lady, often much much more, but when does it go from being art or fashion and just becomes porn?

Answer: point of insertion.

But beyond that, if a collection just isn’t good, there’s no point in calling it avant-garde. That’s an easy cop-out. If an article of clothing defies categorization or tradition, sure, call it avant-garde. But feel free to listen to Franca when in doubt:

“If what’s beautiful depends on your opinion, what’s ugly just repulses you.”

What do you think? Does Franca Sozzani have a point?

Link Love: Vogue Italia

Photography:  Steven Meisel

Styling:   Lori Goldstein

Models:  Agyness Deyn, Alla Kostromicheva, Aminata Niaria, Anna De Rijk, Anna Selezneva, Constance Jablonski, Daria Strokus, Freja Beha Erichsen, Frida Gustavsson, Gwen Loos, Hanne Gaby, Irina Kulikova, Iris Strubegger, Isabeli Fontana, Iselin Steiro, Monika Jagaciack, Jamie Bochert, Kamila Filipcikova, Karen Elson, Karlie Kloss, Kasia Struss, Kendra Spears, Lara Stone, Lily Donaldson, Liya Kebede, Magdalena Frackowiak, Mirte Maas, Natasha Poly, Patricia van der Vliet, Ranya Mordanova, Rianne ten Haken, Rose Cordero, Sasha Pivovarova, Sessilee Lopez, Sigrid Agren, Siri Tollerod, Snejana Onopka and Viktoriya Sasonkina

Snejana Onopka looks absolutely amazing in this month’s Italian Vogue shot by Michelangelo Di Battista. The styling is awesome, and “glitter” doesn’t mean sequins and cheesy loose glitter, she’s all decked out in chains, studs, and stones. Check out the rest on Cult, or in the gallery below

LINK LOVE: Fashion Copious

According to Blog Crazy Sexy Techie Cool, Italian Vogue is following up last summer’s All Black Issue with a special issue featuring all black Barbies…

Franca Sozzani, Editor-in-Chief of Italian Vogue explains, “Barbie has been an icon for whole generations which is why I really wanted to give a strong sign in step with the times, and dedicate [this] issue to Black Barbie.” The special issue includes artistic photography and fashion, in addition to adorable Barbie Dolls.

READ MORE: FashionBomb

Shot by Steven Meisel, 42 year old Kristen McMenamy made it on the cover of Italian Vogue.

LINKAGE: Jezebel via Fashion Week Daily

Model Suvi Koponen gets the colorful treatment by photographer Richard Burbridge in this spread for the May Issue of Italian Vogue. It’s a crazy mix of color and the seasons latest trends that seems like a total dream/lsd trip.What’s really cool though is that Suvi is the winners of Finland’s Next Top Model, proof that while it doesn’t actually help girls in America, it’s doing wonders for those outside of the Eye of Tyrauron glaze.

“High Kick, High Kick, Jazz Hands, and Fosse!!!”

SOURCE: Italian Vogue Serves Up Fashion, Neat [Maghag]

Rianne ten Haken is a Dutch model, born in Lelystad, Netherlands, and began modeling after she won the 2001 Elite Model Look competition at the age of 15.

In addition to an editorial in German Vogue, she has appeared on the covers of Italian Vogue and Numéro, as well as in ads for La Perla.

LINKAGE: Wednesday’s Muse

Another Vogue. Another shoot featuring Beyonce. Of course this one is about a thousand times better than the one shot for American Vogue. How sad for Annie. Here Beyonce attempts her best Marilyn Monroe, only slightly more lifeless..

LINKAGE: Beyoncé’s Vogue Italy April 2009

Katie Grand/Conde Nast’s newest publication is getting some major love from advertisers and might be getting some from i-D mags fashion editor Francesca Burns. Rumors are burning the web stating that she will be joining Love as senior fashion editor-at-large.

This is great news for Love as Frannies background is in styling. She’s worked shoots for W, Italian Vogue, Pop, Arena Homme + before setting a nest at i-D.

The mag which is already getting a shit load of hype will hit newsstands in February for £5.

Eva Mendes shows off her ‘stuff’ in this issue of Italian Vogue.

Thanks Egotastic for the pics