The controversy stemmed from the proposed “second Thursday” rule and how long it would remain in effect. The rule dictated that New York would kick off the fashion show calendar on the second Thursday of every September and February. New York and London claimed that they had all agreed on the rule in perpetuity, while Milan and Paris countered that the rule was only for three years, after which they’d revisit the issue.

This September, however, the “second Thursday rule” would have pushed the start of NYFW to Sept. 13, thus pushing everyone else a week back, causing conflicts in ordering and delivery. Milan then threatened to keep its show dates as they were, which would cause an overlap between LFW and MFW. Paris then also decided to keep its original show dates, which prompted the CFDA to move September’s NYFW back one week to Sept. 6.

But after all that dramatic, multinational hubub,  the CFDA and BFC released a joint statement yesterday confirming a new agreement where New York starts on the first Thursday through 2014, and both Paris and Milan are happy with the outcome.

Steven Kolb, CFDA CEO, explained that the Council “tried to change the dates and keep [the start] on the second Thursday [of September and February], so that American designers would have more time for the delivery of fabrics and for preparing their collections. We worked hard to get Paris and Milan to agree with the second Thursday start and, unfortunately, we were unable to convince them otherwise, and so our first Thursday start is based on Paris and Milan’s decision to not move their dates.”

Mario Boselli, the sharp-tongued president of the CNMI, cheered that “common sense has prevailed,” adding that he was “pleased” over the compromise mainly for two reasons: “it’s a three-year agreement, and not a 20-year one as somebody had suggested, and it’s a schedule that is underwritten by all parties. We entirely approve of this [confirmation], which is a sign of respect to all operators, buyers and editors involved, who, while facing the complexities of the markets, can at least count on the certainty of the calendars.”

While Milan has yet to confirm its show dates for 2014, this is what the fashion week calendar will look like for the next three years:

2012:

NYFW — Sept. 6 – Sept. 13
LFW — Sept. 14 – Sept. 18
MFW — Sept. 19 – Sept. 25
PFW — Sept. 25 – Oct. 3

2013:

NYFW — Feb. 7 – Feb. 14; Sept. 5 – Sept. 12
LFW — Feb. 15 – Feb. 19; Sept. 13 – Sept. 17
MFW — Feb. 20 – Feb. 26; Sept. 18 – Sept. 24
PFW — Feb. 26 – Mar. 6; Sept. 24 – Oct. 2

2014:

NYFW — Feb. 6 – Feb. 13; Sept. 4 – Sept. 11
LFW — Feb. 14 – Feb. 18; Sept. 12 – Sept. 16
PFW — Feb.  25 – Mar. 5; Sept. 23 – Oct. 1

And so everything is peaceful in the world of fashion…except that the deal between IMG and Lincoln Center is up in 2015, leaving the future home of New York Fashion Week up in the air. But that’s not for another few years, so let’s enjoy the peace while we can. [WWD, sub req'd]

In case your conscious (or wallet) can’t handle the truth about fur, Adrienne Landau’s looking out for you. She has a stunning line of faux furs, A by Adrienne Landau, that she’ll be selling TONIGHT on the Home Shopping Network! She’s on at 10PM. Also on the lineup with her is Robert Verdi, selling sunglasses that curve, just so, to the top of the head.

Incidentally, it was right after I asked FashionIndie neighbor Robert Verdi for a ride in his most official NYFW Fashion Police car for a lift back to the loft. With a sigh and a tilt of the head, sunglasses unbudged, he informed me they were heading uptown for another show. Sigh, indeed. So I turned afoot, and a few steps later a woman started to talk to me, about my outfit, naturally, this is Fashion Week. After my introduction, she said, “I’m Adrienne Landau.” A warm smile of recognition crossed my face, then we pondered the prospect of splitting a cab to the Garment Center. No cabs? Fine, the subway then. “It’s faster.”

ON THE SUBWAY with ADRIENNE LANDAU

What kind of fur really gets noticed?

Fox. The long hair really attracts. Colored fur draws a lot of people, especially vibrant jewel tones. I have a whole jacket that’s mixed color; a combination of textures.

Who is your biggest designer crush?
Dennis Basso, he’s a good friend. His collection this season was beautiful. It had a younger spin. So lux!

What kind of fur will you never wear in the subway?
I don’t think there’s any fur I wouldn’t wear in the subway. I have to be somewhere fast!

What piece have you been wearing all season?
I made this really big, really, really, really lightweight fox jacket. It’s weightless! Makes you feel like nothing’s on. It looks like sable even though it’s not.

What do you do to pay respects to the animals, aside from making sure they look eternally beautiful?
We make sure everything is from places where they were treated well. We’re very careful about that.

After the interview, she asked if I’d come to the studio the next day and write up the collection inspiration, “You look kooky enough to do it.” Now, without further ado, to the Adrienne Landau Fall 2012 show. (And my fur bartering tool begins)

A collection in three parts:

This collection takes you on a journey from a naturally wild mountainous terrain, through the cold opulence of Russia, and to the sleek minimalistic New York streets. Within every woman lies these facets in opposition, yet each part requires a layering staple, a versatile standout and a piece that speaks directly to the heart.

Adrienne Landau Fall 2012 begins atop a mountain at sunset, colors dancing in the sky, playing in the wind as the free air rustles a melange of textures in harmony. Raccoon highlights leopard printed rabbit as sable tails fringe fox shoulders. A cropped Mongolian takes in the hues of the falling sun. They brighten the wild spirit of the wearer.

Emerging from the wild, the collection refines as it head north to opulent Russia. With dreams of gilded palaces, the hues shift toward jewel tones. A multicolor fox jacket is pieced from vibrant vintage. Rabbit is printed rose. Skirts of sequins are trimmed Mongolian. The pieces are more versatile than an evening gown and command attention at a glance.

Go west to New York as Adrienne Landau addresses the minimalist within us all. A mink motorcycle jacket nods downtown as a leopard printed mink peacoat winks uptown. A knit rabbit cape appeals to every corner of the island. A mini skirt with the classic Landau sable tail fringe and croc riding pants become the special dress up-or-down pieces that flourish in your wardrobe. Visions of little black jackets, the kind a New Yorker can't live without, are luscious and subdued. There is a piece in the Adrienne Landau Fall 2012 for every woman, every mood, every whim, whether wild, opulent or minimal. All are luxurious.

And that, dear indies, is how one procures a luscious leopard stenciled rabbit fur vest from the singularly spectacular Adrienne Landau. Now it shall live on with me.

#WERQ

photography by Matthew Heckerling

The cheetah over a mulitcolor splatter hits all the right spots. That hint of mint sheer atop etched tights is an eye catcher. Editor-in-Chief of Bullett Magazine

First I saw the necklace, stacked and pointing in the right direction. Then the plastic rose on the lapel a la Michael Bastian blossomed in my vision. Beyoncé's stylist

With a Givenchy jeweled necklace 'neath a sharp military coat, we salute him. Design student from Vienna

This color blocked story is all in the royal family. EIC of the upcoming Prince Magazine

I called it. Those pants are actually a sweater. It's called werq. Stylist

It's a little bit Rape of the Highlands goes to the East Village. She's clearly not having any of it. We're having all of it. FIT student

A beaded clutch and a beadier jacket only brighten the round sunnies cycling over her eyes. Stylist

She caught me with the dizzying patterned maxi, and held me with the fringe leather and authentically 90's platforms. Stylist

Color palette: Colorful, yet understated. Muted hues of green, orange and purple were all present.
Mood: Young and energetic
Statement Pieces: Loved the purple coat with bright orange fur panels.
Front Row Name Drops: Phillip Bloch rolled in next to me.
Gossip: There were too many conversations happening to pick out any juicy lines.
Runway Music: Nothing stuck in my mind.

All photos from NYMag.

Which is why we want you to win this $500 bathrobe FREE!

This Valentines Day we thought we would give our favorite ladies and/or gentlemen a chance to treat themselves and their lover with a super silky designer bathrobe. Go to our website and sign up for Society for Rational Dress before February 14th. We'll enter you into a drawing to win a luxurious washed silk kimono in pale pink that retails at $500... it'll make you feel loved, and we hope the feeling will be mutual. Enter here:

Made of highly intricate Chantilly lace and fine silk, this delicate robe is for ladies with a taste and deep bathrobe pockets.

This superfine mini silk bathrobe lends more sexy looks and feelings than warmth.

Play peekaboo in vertically sheer stripes.

Silk blended with linen, this roomy robe is chill for Sundays with the roomies dishing about then night-before.

Femininely floral silk wraps up sophistication and sweetness in one tie.

A short cut cheetah print robe purrs that you're ready to stay in and go.

A sheer crepe robe with black lace detailing is likely the sexiest thing you will ever own.

Made of modal, this stretchy supersoft robe may have you wearing it outside the house (ie: never taking it off). The lace hem keeps it sexy.

If long and solid silk is your desire, this robe will swath you up smooth.

Color palette: Burnt orange and browns with deep ocean green-blues and multi-sided lavender and pink.
Mood: Underwater life meets 30′s draping and Beetlejuician intentions. It’s a kind of comfort that can keep uptown chic.
Statement Pieces: Patterned jumpsuit, done.
Front Row Name Drops: Patrick McDonald, the dandiest of the dandy.
Runway Music: The MisShapes

The stars from all walks of fame turned out for the iconic chat, including Diane von Furstenberg, Uma Thurman, Naomi Watts, Sean Avery, Chanel Iman, Prabal Gurung, Tory Burch, Jessica Alba, Jerry Seinfeld, Tom Brokaw, Babs Walters, Martha Stewart and of course, Gayle King.  All in all the event raised over $7 million proving once again that everything Oprah touches turns to gold. Or at least turns to wads and wads of cash. [WWD]

Ralph and O

Babs Walters

Gayle

DVF

Naomi Watts

Uma

Chanel Iman

The Seinfelds

Prabal Gurung

Everyone's favorite hockey player turned fashionisto, Sean Avery

Martha Stewart

Kerry Washington

Tory Burch

Camilla Belle, Dylan Lauren, Jessica Alba and Lauren Bush Lauren

Sometime actress Camilla Belle

The Family Lauren

Sherry Lehmann Wine.  Arizona Iced Tea. Fiber One. No, these aren’t the contents of your grandmother’s kitchen cabinet. These are three of the big-name sponsors for New York’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, the biggest and least important of the four major Fashion Weeks. But is New York’s continued dwindling in importance a direct result of the less than fabulous coterie of sponsors, or is it the other way around? And who’s to blame?

The Hardy Gays are on the case!

The main culprit is Milk Studios, whose latest incarnation as MilkMade has stolen much of the luster from Lincoln Center. But whereas they compete for sponsors, MilkMade usually draws smaller shows…however, the Marc Jacobses and the Ralph Laurens don’t show at the Tents either. Rather, they show offsite, effectively spitting in the faces of IMG Models and CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg, who dutifully shows at Lincoln Center each season.

Why not show a concerted effort to make NYFW a juggernaut of influence and taste rather than a discombobulated hydra sprawling all over Manhattan with each head unaware of what the other is doing?

The Tents at Bryant Park were home to New York Fashion Week for seventeen years and the move to Lincoln Center was a controversial one that left many fashion followers scratching their thinning scalps. Aside from being convenient, Bryant Park’s proximity to the Garment District earned it the distinction as the fashion industry’s backyard. But as Fashion Week grew bigger and more and more sponsors came on board — from Dunkin Donuts to McDonald’s — designers became more and more disenfranchised. And Bryant Park became more and more annoyed. Now, the Tents at Lincoln Center resemble a circus rather than a legitimate gathering of professionals and creatives.

Which brings us to Fern Mallis, the lady behind those seventeen halcyon years. She helped organize the move of NYFW from warehouses and studios all over the city to one central location, but with the Tents’ dissolution everything is scattered once again. Just last year Mallis evacuated her role as Senior Vice President of IMG to reportedly start her own consulting business. Interesting timing…

Perhaps she felt disillusioned over what she hath wrought. Perhaps she struck a deal with Bryant Park to kick fashion week out of its lush lawn. Perhaps she poisoned  major designers against her former lover, one Diane von Furstenberg to gain revenge for breaking her heart when she married Barry Diller, effectively ruining Fashion Week and leaving Fiber One as one of the few legitimate sponsors who would touch MBFW with a ten-foot pole!

Cue lightning flash and dramatic music.

Perhaps this is just speculation and hearsay. Perhaps we don’t really care because as far as Mac and I — and the bottle of vodka we’ve already opened to celebrate — Absence of Mallis: The Case of the Lackluster Tents is closed.

Photo source: Style.com

Paul was at nearly every rehearsal – far more hands on than your average ballet composer. He had already been working on an underwater themed symphony when he got the call from Ballet Master in Chief, Peter Martins, to compose a piece for the New York City Ballet. Paul accepted, and created a story and score off of what he had already started. He went back to that workon a computer program he has admittedly become quite obsessed with), with the thought of that sound inspiring dance.

Photo by Jessica Lapidos

McCartney and Martins enter Lincoln Center with a hug. All you need is love, hard work, and the NYC Ballet.

Here, he beholds a Terra Punk – one of the “baddies” as he calls them – in full costume. Stella went along the guidelines of what Dad saw in his mind as he created these characters. He wanted them to be tattooed tribally, so she imprinted the tattoo upon nude dancer’s mesh.

Stella stepped out of her realm of the Stella McCartney brand to create a fantastical skin for the ballet to take place within. After a decade of work with legendary makeup artist  Pat McGrath, in which Stella rarely deviated from the fresh face, she was finally able to let McGrath stretch her theatrical wings and transport these dancers to a kingdom under the sea. She worked with the elite textile printer Dyenamix to create scales out of tie dye, and tattoos out of mesh.

The fabrics she chose fluttered with the movement of water. Part of the ensemble of hand maidens wore tops with a billowing cape behind it, two separate strips of silk attached to the shoulder and waist seams of the shirt. It hit the air like swimming fins.

Three Drunk Lords stumble-danced on stage to a wobbly jazzy sound, in thick multi-color painted striped suits. Perhaps this pattern will find its way onto Stella’s future runways.

The treacherous servent to the Princess Honorata wore a dark rectangular washed silk cape that danced like ribbon around her body, attached to her fingers. See the sketch:

Now see it in action in this gorgeous video by the New York Times.

The harmony of Paul’s bubbling and expressive orchestral musical movements along with Stella’s movement-focused color-blasted underwater mix of breezy chiffons and body suits creates a truly special environment for the ethereal grace of the NYC Ballet.

Who was there last night? Check the gallery.

She's a vision in Oscar de la Renta. That is all.

is more stunning in person than one ever might think. He is baby-faced yet solid built man. Inside sources tell us that Bon Jovi goes to sleep every night at 7:30 PM and wakes up at 3:30 AM to gym it. Werq.

Even skinnier in person than you might imagine, Sarah Jessica Parker (at close range) stunned in Stella McCartney. Gracious she was, and honored to be walking in on the heels of Paul and Stella themselves.

Naomi Watts, Sarah Jessica Parker and Jessica Seinfeld in and with Stella McCartney.

Arriving with Sarah Jessica Parker was Candace Bushnell, without whom we would never have had Carrie, Charlotte, Sam and Miranda in our lives, and also wouldn't have so much trouble getting rid of the continuing movie versions of them.

is only slightly more terrifying than Jack Donaghy. This formidable actor did not miss the opportunity to see Paul's work with the ballet.

looks delighted to be taking the ballet in with his wife, Ricky. There was no need to ask what she was wearing.

our favorite candy girl, and also daughter of Ralph Lauren, was present to witness the work of another power father-daughter combination. Any potential Lauren-Lauren collabs in the future?

contributing editor to Elle Décor and gal about town wore this beaded column piece. With motifs from the world over, this dress stunned. She moved too quickly to catch the designer, but you should see it in its glory.

stunning artist steals the room in Giambatista Valli.

a principle in the New York City Ballet dazzled in a nude Stella McCartney.

the Ballet Master in Chief and his wife share a beautiful moment in the entranceway to Lincoln Center. Martins introduced the ballet with a toast to Paul; a tradition started by the former ballet master George Balanchine, who toasted the likes of Tchaikovsky with a shot of vodka. In honor of Paul McCartney, however, Martins toasted with a cup of English tea.

Taken with a shaky hand at approximately 4 feet's distance, Paul McCartney looks positively giddy with his fiance, Nancy Shevell. Not used to seeing his own work from the audience's view, he was, "extremely excited to sit back and watch the finished production in the knowledge that my work has been done and that I have had such an enjoyable time doing it".

finally gets to see her work in its fullest life. Big congrats to a beautiful feat.

As I sashayed down the red carpet, my mind skipped from the photographers' flashes, to those people who would also be traversing that very stretch of rug. Stella McCartney, of whose visionary costumes I would be soon be in awe, and Sir Paul McCartney, whose life is a tribute to the greatness of man and music. And that is how I got in to snap close photos of the fabulocity that trickled in after me.

Paul McCartney embraces Peter Martins, the ballet's brilliant choreographer. Martins asked Macca if he'd write something for the ballet to benefit the School of American Ballet. From that moment, the two worked closely to bring the vision to fruition.

examines a Terra Punk - one of the "baddies" as Sir Paul calls them - in full costume by Stella McCartney - tattoo pattern over nude mesh.

Paul McCartney takes center stage with Peter Martins and prima ballerina Sara Mearns at the first curtain call of Ocean's Kingdom.

Sarah will be rated on the below categories, five being the highest and 1 being the lowest.

< > at the David Koch Theatre at Lincoln Center on September 22, 2011 in New York City.

< > at the David Koch Theatre at Lincoln Center on September 22, 2011 in New York City.

Image: Vogue September 2011

It is both McCartneys’ first foray into ballet. Paul is donating his time and Stella is lending her services at a reduced rate; essentially they are doing it for the art of it. Though Paul is technically only the composer (whose role typically is over after the music is delivered), he has been there at every rehearsal, contributing to the set, choreography, et all. He wrote the storyline and is seeing the project, as he does, from start to finish with his hands deep in, committed to the project. It was, in fact, not his idea to bring his daughter on board, rather the producers of the show suggested it. Brilliant, thank you.

Paul McCartney with Choreographer Peter Martins

Image: New York Times

See Stella’s sketches and some sneak insight into the costumes ahead.

Paul McCartney with Choreographer Peter Martins

- The New York Dermatology Group is offering half-off on Botox injections during Fashion’s Night Out. Well I know where I’ll be with a half-smile frozen on my otherwise immobile face. [Fashionista]

- Over 50 shows are live-streaming during this Fashion Week. A lot to keep track of, but luckily someone already did that while you were hating your life during the course of the workday. [The Cut]

- Last Fashion Week’s economic impact on Lincoln Center was roughly about $20,902,193, with an estimated $233 million impact per season citywide. And that’s not even counting drug money. [NYT]

- Lanvin‘s Alber Elbaz continues to be the most adorable thing this side of…well, these Lanvin dolls. In a talk he gave over this weekend, Alber explained why he just says no: “I don’t take drugs because if I did I’d love them – I’d be a junkie. And because I’m Jewish, I’d probably be a dealer too.” Comedy! [Vogue UK]

- Then there are those designers who don’t even know what “no” means. And the result: superstardom. At least that’s what I got from this particular fable. Drugs only help. [Refinery29]

Milk is now represented by Creative Artists Agency and has brought on Lexus and American Express as sponsors in addition to original partner MAC Cosmetics.  This partnership has also gone through some changes and beginning this Fashion Week MAC & Milk shows will be under the name of Made.

Lincoln Center on the other hand has IMG, Mercedes-Benz and Maybelline, as well as AmEx with MAC also providing make-up for many a MBFW show.

While Made focuses on emerging designers and does not charge to rent their space — MAC is the exclusive make-up provider leaving models and music on the bill — Lincoln Center caters to more high-profile designers, who in addition to paying for the venue also have to dig deep for models, hair, music and makeup. And these are just a few of the differences:

Number of Shows:

Made – 35

MBFW – 98 (81 on-site, 17 off)

Sponsors:

Made – MAC, American Express and Lexus

MBFW - DHL, Maybelline New York, American Express, TRESemmé, W Hotels Worldwide, Fiber One Bars, ideeli, Fiji Water, AriZona Beverages

Designers:

Made - Sophie Theallet, Cushnie Et Ochs, Peter Som, Erin by Erin Fetherston, Billy Reid, Simon Spurr, Ohne Titel, Jeremy Scott, Nahm

MBFW - BCBG Max Azria, Tommy Hilfiger, Nicole Miller, Cynthia Rowley, Derek Lam, Tracy Reese, L.A.M.B., Diane von Furstenberg, Betsey Johnson, Tory Burch, Badgley Mischka, Vera Wang, Diesel, Michael Kors, Nanette Lepore, J.Mendel, Milly by Michelle Smith, Anna Sui, Elie Tahari

With Fashion Week just around the corner and all those sponsorship dollars, designer reputations and AmEx black cards floating around, the stage is set for a good ole-fashioned walk-off between Milk Studios and Lincoln Center. [WWD]

“Paris is wonderful but it just feels like the right time to show in New York.”

Posen’s show will take place on September 11 at Lincoln Center’s Avery Fisher Hall, meaning that the designer’s “right time” also coincides with the 10th anniversary of 9/11.  Nothing says homecoming like a national tragedy. Or perhaps Zac’s just feeling patriotic, but either way, girl is back in town and ready to throw down. [WWD]

•Bid on a chance to meet Vogue Editor in Chief Anna Wintour and attend a photo shoot for the magazine
•One full week’s stay at the private home of Diane von Furstenberg in the Bahamas
•Ralph Lauren’s Paris – Two Round Trip Business Class Tickets from NYC to Paris, two nights at the Bristol Hotel in a deluxe room, dinner for two at Ralph’s, the quintessential American restaurant in Paris, a 1,000 euro shopping experience at the Ralph Lauren store on St. Germain, and two tickets to visit “The Art of the Automobile: Masterpieces of the Ralph Lauren Collection,” an exclusive exhibit of Mr. Lauren’s vintage automobiles featured at the Musée des Arts décoratifs.
•Live like a Vanity Fair writer for a day—minus the torture of actually reporting and writing. The winning bidder will take a tour of the Vanity Fair offices, have lunch with one of the editors, sit in on a meeting in Graydon Carter’s office, and then finish off the day with a dinner for four at Mr. Carter’s restaurant, The Monkey Bar.
Night: 2 tickets and backstage passes to Jay-Z and Kanye West’s concert
•Morning, Noon & Night with Tory Burch – Morning: $3,000 shopping spree at Tory Burch with a personal stylist; Noon: Lunch with Tory and the design team;
•Lunch and style consultation with celebrity stylist Rachel Zoe, includes a tour of her offices and additional styling tips from her team
•Go behind the scenes with The Hilfigers at the Spring 2012 Tommy Hilfiger ad campaign shoot. Get prepped out in a full Tommy Hilfiger look at the brand’s Fifth Avenue store before having your photograph taken with the Hilfigers.
•A meet and greet with The Row designers Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen plus an entire wardrobe of Elizabeth and James and The Row Collections
•Two tickets to the Elton John Oscar’s Party
•The opportunity to intern for a day at Elle Magazine along with a personal fashion consultation with Elle Creative Director Joe Zee
•Have a Barbie custom made by Mattel in your likeness, valued at over $10,000
•Courtesy of DKNY, enjoy a “VIP” experience at Yankee Stadium for four guests. Experience includes a private tour of Monument Park followed by watching the Yankees’ batting practice from the field, followed by a meet and greet with Yankees Manager Joe Girardi. Afterwards, watch the Yankees take on the Tampa Bay Rays on July 9th, 2011, from four front row Legends Suite seats
•A lunch and style consultation with TV Personality and Project Runway Judge Tim Gunn
•Two tickets to the Vera Wang Spring Summer 2012 Fashion Show followed by a meet and greet with the designer and a $2000 shopping spree at the Vera Wang flagship store
•The opportunity to personalize a PS1 ‘it’ bag with Proenza Schouler designers Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez
•A “Made to Measure Experience” custom suit and fitting from designer Tom Ford.
•Eight tickets to the Metropolitan Opera and dinner with Lincoln Center President Reynold Levy
•Two tickets to a live filming of “Watch What Happens Live with Andy Cohen” along with private cocktails with host Andy Cohen following the filming
•And many, many more……….

So get bidding on Charity Buzz, and support Japan in the most fashionable way possible (or any way you can).

- The first fashion show was probably staged in New York City specialty store, Ehrich Brothers in 1903 as a means to lure middle-class women.

- By 1910, many big-name department stores were holding shows, though mostly of French or French-inspired clothing.

- 1914, Fashion Fete, an event to benefit the war-relief effort is organized by former Vogue editor (1914-1952), Edna Woolman Chase.

- By 1920s, fashion shows were common and had Parisian, Persian, Chinese, Russian, and Mexican themes, among others.

- Shows grew so popular merchants had to obtain licenses when using live models; in New York, police even threatened to put an end them altogether.

- When the Germans occupied France in 1940, buyers, editors, and designers were unable to travel to Paris to see the few remaining shows.

- Enter fashion publicist, Eleanor Lambert. She established the first Fashion Week, dubbed “Press Week,”  in 1943 to publicize American fashion and gain control of the market.

- Lambert hoped to give editors a chance to see and write about the work of American designers; they would stay on-site, usually at the Pierre or Plaza Hotels while buyers were forced to visit the designers’ showrooms.

- Soon Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar, who had previously featured exclusively French designs, began embracing American fashions and crediting the names behind them.

- 1970s and 80s, designers began holding shows in lofts, restaurants and clubs; after a series of mishaps in small, unsafe locations in the early 90s, Fern Mallis, then president of the CFDA, spearheaded a movement to have all the shows in one place.

- Striking a deal with Bryant Park to house the shows in tents, the Spring 1994 collection was the first Fashion Week to be held there.

- The event at the tents was officially branded Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in 2009 to reflect corporate sponsorship.

- After numerous disputes between the Park’s management and the show’s producers, IMG, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week was moved to Lincoln Center for the Spring 2011 collections, though many designers still opt to have their shows away from the tents.

- Each year, about 232,000 people attend New York’s Fall and Spring Fashion Weeks. This accounts for approximately $466 million in direct visitor spending and about $1.6 billion in tax revenue to the city’s fashion industry.

- $40 million – restaurants; $30 million – taxis, Town Cars, and public transportation; $56 million – hotels.

So there’s a method to the madness after all. And that method is spelled with about 8 zeros. See you in the Fall!

Link Love: Slate, Boston.com

Bodhi‘s ventures into men’s, luggage and tech pieces come full circle in Fall 2011 with iPad case easels, briefcases and duffles in embossed croc, pinstripe flannel and camouflage cool. As one of the first brands to launch a chic tech collection, Bodhi’s “fashion meets function” attitude is heightened with SLR camera bags, MacBook cases, e-reader holders and more in the sleek finishes found throughout the women’s and men’s collections. The Bodhi travel collection can now be purchased at Bloomingdale’s and Neiman Marcus stores.

(Please bear with my non-iPhone photos. Better photos to come.)

Above is that arm binding jacket. It came two thirds the way through the show. There were a few variations on it, and I’d love to try it on. It wouldn’t surprise me if Alexandre has figured out a way to allow movement while still looking restrictive.

Below is the belt that sits directly on the skin, between the soft edges of layered light material frayed.

Acid toned lava flows over bicep high leather gloves.

Backstage post-show, the man of the hour, Alexandre Herchcovitch seems a touch frazzled, but relieved and proud. He declines an interview (well, his PR girl does), but that’s okay. His clothes speak for themselves.

Photos by Jessica Lapidos on Blackberry

Josh Linam: Mercedes Benz is such a cool company. What do you think of Mercedes-Benz as a brand?

Karolina Kurkova: Well it’s a very classic, timeless brand. It’s innovative. They always have the safest cars. It’s luxurious but subtle without being too flashy. And I think it’s wonderful that they’re creating this event and supporting all these different fashion shows around the world where people can show their work.

Yes, actually that leads into my next question – what does it mean for Mercedes-Benz to sponsor Fashion Week, which is the epicenter for all things stylish?

I think it’s a great collaboration. Mercedes-Benz is very stylish and modern; it’s innovative, and it’s luxury. And it goes very well with fashion. It’s about trends, the newest and best things. Also, Mercedes-Benz is a lifestyle brand. It’s just not about the cars – it’s what they represent. You’ll see a lot of people who are a part of fashion week, designers, models and celebrities driving the cars.

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week incorporates some of the best technology around. How do you see technology changing fashion?

I’m always amazed how technology is pushing the envelope and how it’s changing so quickly. You can see everything online right away. The things that are happening simultaneously, everyone can see it. I have a fan page on Facebook. It’s amazing how quick things happen. It’s so instant!

Are there any drawbacks about technology becoming such a part of fashion?

Sometimes there’s not that mystery or surprise or privacy. Almost everything is out there. People want everything right away. Maybe it’s not the greatest for the young generation who spends so much time online. They get so much into that world, and there’s so much more to see outside the Internet.

What are your favorite fashion Web sites or blogs to check out?

Well I just got to meet this guy, Bryan Boy. He’s so crazy, but he’s very sweet, very real and so true to his roots. He’s from the Phillipines, and he still goes back there. He’s very trendy and he’s a big fashionista, but he’s not affected by it. He’s still a true, real person, and I can feel that. I think he’s fun, and I like his style.

Last question for you. What’s your favorite thing to wear on a night out?

Well, I don’t have just one look. I’m someone who dresses by mood, by the weather and by where I am, my location. It could be from jeans to boots to a t-shirt and leather jacket to a beautiful Hervé Leger or Azzadine Alaïa dress with flats or high heels. So I’m really someone who dresses by where I am. It’s got to be comfortable, look effortless and classic, and have a personality.

Karolina’s newest, sizzling spread for Mercedes-Benz:

One obvious reason Karolina Kurkova has seen such success in modeling – she is outrageously beautiful. However, some may not know the real reason people love working with Karolina. The supermodel beams with positivity, and she is perhaps even a little bit of a jokester.

So, it shouldn’t be a surprise that Karolina turned the tables on me in our interview. Right from the start she humorously tried to throw me off with a big smile on her face. (Clearly, it worked.)

Karolina Kurkova: Wow, you’re so handsome. So are you dating anybody?

Josh Linam: Well, I’m kind of new to New York City.

So you’re looking for the right people? Call me. I can help. Ohh, I can help.

Wow, thank you; that would be amazing! So I’m from Fashion Indie, and I just had some questions for you.

So wait, you’re saying you’re new to New York. Where were you before?

I was in Texas.

In Texas? You lived and blogged about fashion in Texas?

Actually I lived in Texas, but I was writing a different project. So yeah, I just moved and I’m pretty new to New York fashion.

So this is kind of your first, big fashion week?

This is the first!

So is it a little overwhelming for you?

It’s new. Everything’s new. Overwhelming a little, as far as the shows and the partying I think.

And the tent. Isn’t it beautiful how it’s done? It’s not just going from show to show. It’s almost like a creative space where people can work and talk and see shows and connect.

It seriously is amazing how they can transform it into such a functional space. I love Lincoln Center!

Don’t forget to check out Part 2 with Karolina, where Fashion Indie questions the supermodel about her new partnership with Mercedes-Benz.

The first piece that hits me is this massively belled bottom structure that appears to be double breasted all the way to the floor. A skirt?

NO. Gotcha. They’re pants! Which I could only tell when she shifted her stance. I need them immediately.

I round the corner onto the next looks, and who do I run into? Johnny Weir! Yes, the two-time-national-gold-olympian-international-figure-skating-popstar-cum-fashionality was browsing Timo in a fa-a-abulous bow tie and Timo Weiland suit.

He was totally sweating the skirt all the way across the room. I’ll go out of order here for just a moment to show you the folded layered thinner than paper skirt that Johnny calls his fave.

Going back in time, we reach the brilliantly spotted non-pictorial landscape. I got flashes of Georges Seurat, only digitized and far more abstract. I asked Timo’s design partner about it – hear his response in the interview below.

My first impression of the prints both on scarf in the foreground and on the shiny gold black jacket in the background was a metallic nineties Africa. And this shirt in front is really quite unique. It’s made from gold and ivory threads, woven into netting.

Here, take a closer look at this impossibly fine material.

Three suit-y looks I like came toward the end were glazed with granite. And check the muff – I want to put my hands all up in there.

I got to talk with Timo Weiland and his design partner Alan Eckstein as they floated around the room greeting friends and journalists alike, and basking in a job well done. They gave some fine insight into how the collection came to be, and why. (Pardon my video-phone quality. Sadly, it’s a Blackberry, not an iPhone.)

In case you couldn’t see in the vid, this is Timo’s personal favorite look to wear.

And that wraps up Timo Weiland’s fantasy trip through time and space and personality. Thanks for coming with me.

PHOTO CREDITS: NY Mag

The prints brings her world to life; kaleidoscope visions of feathers and feral stripes. Using enormous cuts, the airy texture swims in full, shaping the body while fluttering. Extra material is used as a shawl, often covering the entire back starting at the head. Pleasant to see from the front, but perhaps a bit misleading from behind. Her more structured pieces dabble in craft, á la braiding as bodice. In the most unique ensemble to the rest of the, we see a multicolored tripped out tribal on an opaque pant and generous shouldered, long sleeve body hugging dress. Look closely at some of their hands, the black polish seeps down past the knuckles. She’s not afraid to get her hands dirty. Warrior mother indeed.

Photos by Jessica Lapidos

Lucky for those weaker beings whom I have witnessed do the switch way too close to the location of a show, photographs of these occurrences are rare. So rare, in fact, that I have hardly found any. Perhaps this is a bigger secret than I thought… Be warned though, if I spot you changing out of your heels in plain sight of a fashion venue, I’m blasting your picture on the internet. Keep your shoe swapping antics hush hush, don’t make me spill your dirty little secret.

Photo by Sion Fullana

If you heard it from the twitter hype already, well too bad because Fashionindie always states it better, the  25th anniversary celebration called for a beyond exclusive bash with a rumored 1,200 plus guests at none other than The Metropolitan Opera House right across from all the fashion week chaos in Lincoln Center. Everything amazing consisted of a red carpet entrance, to a huge multi colored changing “TH” monument right out front to what seemed like hundreds of seductive young hotties or you can say models which ever you prefer, dressed from head to toe in Tommy Hilfiger of course, but what really took the prize was the live performance by the one and only Strokes. Albert Hammond Jr. Julian Casablancas, and the rest of the guys in the band right up front and center. In my opinion I think people looked forward to singing along with the classics like Last Night, Some Day, Reptilia, etc with the band more than celebrating the 25 years of preppster lovin’ .

>> Stephanie Winston Wolkoff, Lincoln Center’s new fashion director, wasn’t kiddingwhen she said there will be no crashers at this year’s New York Fashion Week. This season, instead of sending out paper fashion show invitations that require check-in with publicists at the show doors like seasons past, designers will instead send email invitations with bar coded confirmations ahead of time, so attendees can check in and receive their seating assignments from airport-style kiosks at the venue.

Marc Jacobs has used the system in seasons past »

LINK LOVE:New Check-In Technology May Keep New York Fashion Week Gate Crashers at Bay

Harper's Bazaar, with the support of the CFDA, is helping a handful of the world's most promising emerging accessories designers by providing the opportunity to showcase their work alongside the best of American fashion during the New York Fashion Week Collections with the first Accessories BAZAAR, sponsored by Willow Club, at Avery Fisher Hall.  The exhibit will also highlight key Spring 2011 accessories from established designers such as Phillip Lim, Thakoon, Ralph Lauren, Jason Wu, Rag and Bone, Michael Kors, and Calvin Klein.

Featuring the Spring 2011 collections of 18 jewelers, milliners, footwear, handbag and small leather goods designers including Alexis Bittar, Philip Crangi, Albertus Swanepoel, Alejandro Ingelmo, Fenton’s Dana Lorenz, Pamela Love and Dean Harris in a gallery-like setting, the Accessories BAZAAR is right in Lincoln Center, where the international press and representatives from the world’s most important retailers will be gathered to see what New York’s runways have in store for the season. The exhibit kicks off with a cocktail party on Monday evening to celebrate the participating designers, and will be open all day Tuesday, September 14 and Wednesday, September 15th to Fashion Week attendees.

Photo credit: SPEC Entertainment 

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Now if Zachary Quinto is not the most dapper dude in the room then I must be blind! Our favorite vulcan made his stylish arrival at the 2010 CFDA Fashion Awards at Alice Tully Hall, Lincoln Center on Monday, June 7th, 2010 in New York City.

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APPARENTLY THIS BLUE-EYED DEVIL’S NAME IS SIMON SPURR AND HE IS A DESIGNER. I AM TAKING THE SOURCE’S WORD FOR IT, BECAUSE HE DOESN’T HAVE A WIKIPEDIA, SO THERE’S LIKE A 59% CHANCE HE DOESN’T ACTUALLY EXIST AND LAQUEENTO’S JUST WALKING AROUND WITH A CARDBOARD CUTOUT OR SOMETHING.

BUT ANYWAY, THE 41% OF HIM THAT IS REAL IS MARRIED TO A WOMAN. WHO I HOPE KNOWS THAT HER HUSBAND'S RUNNING AROUND WITH SLUTTY MCSLUT SLUT HERE— CAUSE, DAMN, I WOULDN'T LEAVE MY MAN ALONE WITH LAQUEENTO, WOULD YOU? DUDE'S LIKE, A SEXUAL VOLCANO. ONE MINUTE HE'S ALL, “OOOPS I DROPPED MY PEN!” AND BENDS DOWN IN FRONT OF YOU, THEN THE NEXT THING YOU KNOW YOU'RE MAKING OUT IN AN ALLEY AND YOU CAN'T REMEMBER HOW TO SPELL AND HE'S ALL, “WOW, THAT WAS SO WEIRD! HOW DID THAT HAPPEN!” AND YOU'RE LIKE “OH, YOU.”

LIKE, LOOK AT THAT FACE. THE TITLE OF THIS PICTURE IS “OH, REALLY? THAT’S YOUR BOYFRIEND? WELL LET ME TELL YOU HONEY, HE WASN’T ~LAST NIGHT.” COLD. AS. ICE.

BUT OF COURSE, NOT EVERYONE THINKS HIS WHORING ABOUT IS SO PRESH….

THE POOR DEAR.
(OH HAY A JOHNNY CASH SONG JUST CAME ON MY ITUNES WITH THE LINE “I MISS THOSE BLUE EYES.” DAMN, EVEN MY ITUNES IS SLUT-SHAMING YOU, LAQUEENTO. YOU BETTER SETTLE DOWN BEFORE MY TUMBLR–LOLZ SHAMELESS–STARTS JUDGING, THAT’S WHERE ALL THE HIPSTERS LIVE AFTER ALL; YOU DON’T WANT TO BE ON THEIR BAD SIDE.)
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SOURCE CAN’T BE MAD AT A DUDE WITH GLITTER ON HIS LAPEL, THOUGH.

LINK LOVE:LAQUEENTO GOES TO SOME AWARD THING WITH A MARRIED MAN BECAUSE HE’S KIIIIIND OF A WHORE, YOU GUYS

Will Olivier Theyskens and Andrew Rosen be the dynamic duo of New York Fashion Week?

Who isn’t excited about the new collaboration between Olivier Theyskens and Theory? Theory is the massively successful brand has never had a designer personality spearheading the label. The success behind Theory, is the theory that great clothes are always in style and that cut, fabric and clean lines will never just be a trend. Good staples are the core of the Theory look and every girl I know swears by the cut of their pants. Trend schmend. The company is a force to be reckoned with, and next up, the Theyskens Theory capsule collection (though I hate the term capsule, a collection is a collection) will show in September, without fashion show fan fare, which is so smart. This will be one of the more sought after collections by press AND buyers even with all the hullabaloo about Lincoln Center and MAC & MILK. The anticipation will be palpable for what Theyslens Theory will present. Anyhoo..hats off to Andrew Rosen.

VIEW ORIGINAL POST:Theyskens Theory

LINK LOVE: StyleElite

This year, Fashion’s Night Out is staging the largest ever public fashion show in NYC history. On September 7th, 200 of the industry’s top models will storm Lincoln Center and present the show of a lifetime. Keep reading…

“We felt it is important for people to see what wonderful fashion will be in stores at that moment,” said Anna Wintour. “This show will focus on the key trends we’ve identified for fall so that shoppers will have plenty of inspiration to join the fun during Fashion’s Night Out.”

The show, produced by Vogue in conjunction with SPEC Entertainment, will highlight key trends of the Fall 2010 season (as identified by the magazine), will feature merchandise intended for fall delivery, and inspire shoppers as they prepare their wish lists for the main Fashion’s Night Out event on Friday, September 10th. Nearly 1,500 guests are expected to be in attendance and tickets will be available through the Lincoln Center box office later this summer, with a portion of the proceeds benefitting The New York City AIDS Fund.

After holding runway shows under a big tent in Bryant Park for 15 years, organizers of New York’s Fashion Week are expected to announce on Tuesday that they will move the event to Lincoln Center, beginning in 2010.

Keep reading: NY Times