A look from E. Tautz's spring 2012 collection

Designers including Aquascutum, Christopher Raeburn, E. Tautz, J.W. Anderson and TOPMAN will show from Friday, June 15 through Sunday, June 17, immediately preceding the men’s fashion weeks in Milan and Paris — meaning those limey labels can finally capitalize on all the sartorial testosterone running through Europe. Tom Ford and Christopher Kane are among the members of the committee overseeing London Collections: Men, headed by British GQ editor Dylan Jones.

The news of this new men’s fashion weekend delivers on BFC CEO Caroline Rush’s promise that “Menswear in London will be put in the spotlight this year,” made shortly after James Long became the first menswear designer to win one of the Council’s Fashion Forward  prizes. [Telegraph]

The face of victory, Mario Boselli

New York and the CFDA has agreed to not push back the dates of New York Fashion Week in accordance with the “Second Thursday rule” so as not to interfere with Milan’s show dates. The CFDA’s chief executive officer Steven Kolb graciously and begrudgingly admitted defeat at the hands of noted shit-talker Mario Boselli of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana in a statement today:

“We’ve been back and forth on this. People are anxious and need to know the dates. There’s no value for the cities to compete. In the spirit of working together, London and New York are in agreement that we will go in the earlier period, but with the hope that the four cities will come out of this confusion and work together to plan future show weeks. We need to begin to look at the fashion season not as individual fashion weeks, but very much as a global business.”

Well, at least it’s over and no lives were lost. But it being a fashion war, expect some scathing reviews flooding in from the upcoming fall 2012 runway shows in Milan and Paris because shade is the only real weapon of combat. As for next year, New York will show from September 6 thru 13, London from September 14 thru 18, Milan from September 19 thru 25 and Paris from September 26 thru October 3. [WWD]

Get them for a steal – $90.90 at ASOS.com.

Great for naturally curly hair

1.    Start with clean, dry hair in its naturally curly state. Divide it into 3 areas; the back and each side.

2. Take the back; hold it lightly as though making a ponytail without any tension so the curls remain intact. From the ends roll it up into an upward roll, pin into place through the middle of the roll.

3. Now take one side, drape it backwards and roll it up in the same way to meet the roll in the back and pin to secure.

4. Do the same on the opposite side.

5.  Finish with hairspray to hold.

A very ‘in the moment look’ inspired by ‘Breakfast at Tiffany’s’

If the hair is fine it can be crimped to add texture and volume.

1. Start with clean damp hair, apply Redken Guts 10 to the roots, then with your head upside down blast dry to create as much volume as possible at the top of the head.

2. When completely dry and still upside down make a ponytail and secure with an elastic band.

3. Now lift the head, tease the hair with a wide tooth comb to create an ‘airy’ texture and add a little Redken Powder Grip 03 if your hair is very fine.

4.Form a round loose bun, pin into place and finish with hairspray to hold

A looped-under ponytail

An elegant look with an equestrian feel. A little teased volume and a few loose strands around the face add softness.

1. Start with clean hair. If your hair is damaged or frizzy in texture, use a smoothing styling cream balm like Redken Outshine 01. Apply to dampened hair, then blow-dry it straight.

2. Part the hair in the middle and pull it into a low ponytail at the nape of the neck. If your hair is fine, you can tease it a little or puff in some Redken Powder Grip 03 for more volume at the crown then spray it with hairspray to hold it.

3. Loop the length of the ponytail under and secure with an elastic band keeping one small section free. Using the fingers, mold the shape of the looped ponytail into a neat triangular shape.

4. Wrap the loose section of hair around the base of the ponytail, covering the elastic. Pin it in place.

5.Smooth the entire surface with Redken All Soft Argan-6 Oil or to give a natural looking shine and finish with hairspray to hold.

You can find more hair how to’s at www.KrisSorbie.com

- Among the other Grammy honorees is the late Steve Jobs who will be posthumously awarded one of the Special Merit Awards. [E!]

- A brief history of glitter: from Neanderthals to World War II and Haitian voodoo. [Etsy on Vimeo]

- Details on Madonna’s Truth or Dare line have come flooding, including news that Madge will be recycling photos from a 2010 shoot with Mert and Marcus for Interview Magazine for the ad campaign. And the commercials will feature her classic 80s ballad, “Lazy for You.” [Madonnarama]

- Prince William and wife Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge may be of royal stock, but that don’t mean they don’t like to put it down on the dancefloor. At a charity event, Will ran into a sassy black girl — who probably said something along these lines — and the result was this priceless moment of shoulder-dusting. Kate lovingly looks on as if to say, “Oh, Will, you’re so hood in your comtempo-casual sweater and mom jeans.” Meanwhile the Prince should use this angle for every photo op from here on out. We haven’t been this attracted to him in ages. [Styleite]

-  London Fashion Week, known for gently nurturing young, emerging designers, apparently didn’t feel like breaking in a new class of Fashion East-sponsored designers and are re-using the same up-and-comers from last LFW. [Elle UK]

- The Kardashians have been accused of selling and endorsing products manufactured in Chinese sweatshops using child labor, an allegation that caught the klan unawares. Kim and co. claim that they are taking the accusations “very seriously,” but the head of China’s foremost human rights organization thinks they’re just a bunch of greedy liars. ”If they [the Kardashians] don’t stop endorsing these products or do anything to improve the conditions in the factories,” said Li Qiang, executive director of China Labor Watch, ”they are sending a message to the public saying, ‘We will do anything to make money.’” I think they sent that message a while ago. [Radar]

Heathrow Airport, London
Getting stuck in Heathrow is a shopper’s dream. The T3 terminal shopping center stands up to central London with stores like Mulberry, Zara, Reiss, Dior, Hermes and Harrods. Once you’re done spending all your money, the art museum is a free cultural fix in Terminal 5. Need a nap after all that? Check into the Yotel in Terminal 4 starting at £25 for four hours.

Munich Airport, Germany
Beer gardens, gambling and spas. Need I say more?

Photos: Buzzfeed

Photo: Richard Guaty

“We proved that there was no agreement with the Council of Fashion Designers of America and the British Fashion Council regarding the three years 2012-2013-2014, and that, in any case, the postponement of a week for the dates of September 2012 was not on the table,” said Boselli.

Fashion week in Milan next year, Sept. 19th-25th, will directly conflict with New York and London —  Sept. 13th-20th and Sept. 21st-25th, respectively. With more than a bit of spite, Milan blames the CFDA for moving NYFW a week later than in previous years and if they were to follow suit, Italian designers wouldn’t be able to satisfy production needs.

Boselli also finds accusations that the Italians are not honoring its commitments as “an aggressive and arrogant stance towards the CNMI” since they had set their 2012 dates in March of last year.

DVF, in an open letter to the fashion community, reasserts the CFDA’s stance on the “Second Thursday” rule:

Editors, retailers and designers  like the consistency of every designer always showing on the same day of the week season after season. It makes it so much easier for everyone to plan and attend shows…We did not change from the agreement we reached of starting Fashion Season in New York on the same day every year…I also believe this conflict is a misunderstanding. I am convinced it will be resolved and that the agreement that was made 3 years ago at great cost and effort is valid and will be kept.

President of France’s Chambre Syndicale, Didier Grumbach, also thinks that this is all just one big misunderstanding, though he agrees with Boselli that the rule was only temporary: “We always said that it is impossible to plan anything beyond three years as you never know what kind of events might come up…The idea was always that we would meet up again once the three-year time period was up.”

If all this back and forth between everyone is confusing, matters got a whole lot messier when the CFDA and the BFC sent letters to Italian designers asking to help Boselli and Grumbach “stick to this agreement and maintain the current flow of dates.” Those designers, for their part, wholeheartedly support the CNMI.

For now, it looks like no one is backing down though von Furstenberg is still holding out hope for a compromise. [WWD, WWD -- sub req'd]

- Lindsay Lohan continues to be employable, if only by German fashion houses you’ve never heard of/care about. This can’t go well, particularly considering the first sentence of the press release announcing Lilo’s participation in Philipp Plein‘s spring campaign: “Lindsay is a beautiful, highly acclaimed actress and model.” Who are we lying to Philipp Plein? [Styleite]

- Frida Gustavsson is GORGEOUS on Paolo Roversi‘s cover of Vogue Italia‘s Couture Supplement, giving us a little flapper chic and some serious face. [Fashion Gone Rogue]

- Designer Alice Temperley thinks London Fashion Week is better than New York Fashion Week and should be longer. Meanwhile, preaching to the choir, girlfriend. [Telegraph]

- Girls fall on the runway every season and, honestly, it’s always a highlight. But turns out taking a catwalk misstep could land a girl face down in unemployment. [Daily Mail]

- Which is why they should take a cue from the pros, like Liu Wen and Jourdan Dunn, who reveal how they traveresed the trricky runways of Jason Wu and Alexander Wang, respectively. [The Cut]

Photos from Style.com

The exhibit was curated by LOVE magazine editrix/Marc’s stylist for both his eponymous line and Vuitton since 2003, Katie Grand, who insists that it is not a retrospective; rather, she “put clothes together as I would for a shoot.” Hence a mixing and matching of looks from different collections helmed by Jacobs since 1998.

These 30 looks are modeled on mannequins, some bearing the iconic Vuitton Speedy bag as heads, while others — painted orange and pink and covered in Louis Vuitton graffiti designed by frequent Jacobs collaborator Stephen Sprouse — are frozen in editorial-ready poses.

The Art of Fashion coincides with the opening of Milan Fashion Week and the brand’s new store in Via Montenapoleone 2. It does not, however, have anything to do with those pesky rumors that Marc is moving to Dior, since, according to Grand, they started working on The Art of Fashion in January.

It’s nice to know Grand and Jacobs took some time out from plotting the downfall of London Fashion Week to put together this lovely exhibit. If you’re in Milan, you can catch Louis Vuitton: The Art of Fashion‘s very limited engagement through October 9th. [WWD]

LINK LOVE: Imagine Fashion

Kylie will be rated on the below categories, five being the highest and 1 being the lowest.

What grade did Kylie receive? Check out page two to find out.

11. University of Delaware Newark, DE

Campus Tour: The smallest state also has a small design program that is focused on quality garment making from every angle. The program follows a garment through its entire lifecycle, from the creative design and tailoring, to a focus on sustainably producing goods on both small and large scale in a socially and environmentally minded manner. An entirely student run fashion magazine, UDress, and fashion shows exist outside of class, working to show and pull fashion out of this college driven town.

Programs: Apparel Design, Merchandising, Sustainability

Student Body: 16,500

Tuition:  $27,000

Star Alumni: Well, me. And a fierce force that is the backbone of the garment industry.

“Burberry Body is the next chapter in our history, and a launch we are all so excited about,” Christopher Bailey, Burberry Chief Creative Officer, said. “It’s the Burberry world translated into a scent, embodying every facet of the brand including our music, collections, scent, platforms and communities.”

Check out some of Rosie’s behind-the-scenes shots on page 2.

With shops already in cities like London, Tokyo and Luxembourg, it’s about time we got a taste of Maison Ladurée‘s famous macarons. As flavors shift with the seasons, you’ll find these delightful little pastries in Lily of the Valley, Orange Passion, Chuao Origine Pure Chocolate, just to name a few. Plus, Maison Ladurée offers the most gorgeous packaging you could ever want, so these little treats make the perfect gift.

Still not convinced? The French patisserie is known for creating the double decker macaroon and made all of the pastries for the film Marie Antoinette. It’s also a favorite of Gossip Girl Blair Waldorf. The shop just opened today at 864 Madison Ave. between 71st and 72nd Streets, so run to get your sugar high before the rush.

LINK LOVE: Eater

It’s comforting to know that even while wading through destruction and devastation, the Duchess still looks every inch the role. Meanwhile, I waded through destruction and devastation also known as a major hangover this morning and I look like I robbed a homeless person for their clothes. [WWD]

For the Cowboys & Aliens premiere at the 64th Festival del Film di Locarno in Locarno, Switzerland, Babaii wanted Olivia to rock a classic bun a la Grace Kelly with a modern twist. He applied Couture Colour Pequi Oil Treatment before blow-drying, curling and sweeping her hair back to elongate her neck and highlight her stunning features. Soft and lovely, we love the contrast between her hair and ultra-loud custom Gucci gown.

We were a little hesitant when he read the concept but Jagger turns the lady work suit out. (Terry Richardson‘s signature style helps)

Keep reading for more images from the spread.

From now until July 20th, you can enter to win these fantastic prizes on FitFlop’s website.

The good people at FitFlop are always looking for ways to give back, so it’s no surprise they’re the title sponsor of this year’s Shooting Stars Benefit – a three-day, star-studded spectacle targeted to raise money for Make-A-Wish Foundation UK.

If you have any questions about FitFlop or the contest, get at me on Twitter @CrystlMeatballs.

Fresh on the fashion scene, Emma poses for the October 2008 issue of Vogue Italia.

Photo: StyleFrizz

Paloma will be rated on the below categories, five being the highest and 1 being the lowest.

Fit: 3

Appropriateness: 3

Trendiness: 5

Styling: 2

Shoes: 2

Hair: 4

Makeup: 3

Pose: 3

Confidence: 2

I don’t absolutely hate this look on Paloma – she has a lot of balls to wear something so “Beyonce” to her album launch. But the tights are horrendous and the fascinator is just too much. I really wish the shoe was gold and strappy as well. There’s a lot going on but not a lot of cohesion to hold things together. I’m getting “cooky showgirl” and I doubt that’s what Paloma and her stylist were going for.

Rosie will be rated on the below categories, five being the highest and 1 being the lowest.

Fit: 4

Appropriateness: 5

Trendiness: 4

Styling: 3

Shoes: 2

Hair: 5

Makeup: 4

Pose: 4

Confidence: 5

It’s unfortunate Rosie chose these awful shoes to bastardize this gorgeous, angelic dress because she would have received an A with a better choice. This dress is perfect for an after-party: very sexy with that demure, sophisticated look we all hope to achieve when dressing up.

Naomie will be rated on the below categories, five being the highest and 1 being the lowest.

Fit: 5

Appropriateness: 5

Trendiness: 4

Styling: 4

Shoes: 3

Hair: 4

Makeup: 3

Pose: 5

Confidence: 3

Naomie looks lovely in this gilded Mulberry dress, even with her choice of very minimal makeup. The bag and belt look great, but a higher. darker shoe would have worked better. She appears a bit bored/uncomfortable but chic nonetheless.

Kristen will be rated on the below categories, five being the highest and 1 being the lowest.

Fit: 4

Appropriateness: 5

Trendiness: 4

Styling: 5

Hair: 4

Makeup: 5

Pose: 4

Confidence: 5

Wow Kristen Wiig cleans up damn well. She looks radiant in this color with her classically styled makeup and hair. When you can look this beautiful while making people laugh, you can own the world.

Chloe will be rated on the below categories, five being the highest and 1 being the lowest.

Fit: 4

Appropriateness: 3

Trendiness: 5

Styling: 3

Shoes: 4

Hair: 2

Makeup: 4

Pose: 3

Confidence: 3

Sigh, I thought it was summer. Could Chloe have picked something a little drabber in celebration of the season? This is so dreary I could cry. Love the shoes on their own, hate them with this look. And sorry girl, but what’s with the face? These Kick Ass girls confuse me to the max. Bored.

“‘One picture is worth ten thousand words’* and these carefully selected images are set to inspire anybody fascinated by either fashion, foibles, or simply the photographs themselves,” Elizabeth Walker says in the book’s introduction. “It is all about stylish contrasts, strange situations and rarely glimpsed pictures; all set to get the mind buzzing and the creative juices flowing.”

*Frederick R. Barnard 1927 Printer’s Ink

It’s difficult to put this amazing book into words when the story in-between the covers are told through photographs. And so, here are some of the coolest images that will surely inspire your wardrobe this week.

Rolling Stones Brian Jones sports a striped suit in 1967.

Lauren Hutton rocks a menswear-inspired look at Studio 54 in 1978.

Kate Moss wears a white fox wrap at Mario Testino’s London exhibition in 2002.

Diana Ross wearing a graphic black and white jumpsuit in 1983.

Joan Collins looking gorgeous in high-waisted jeans in 1955.

And there is more where that came from. Walker explores 13 trends that have been relevant since the 19th century until modern times.

What owning this book says about you: I love fashion history and the evolution of trends throughout the years. I’m a classic girl always looking for ways to update a definitive dressing movement.

What your dinner guests will say upon seeing this book on your coffee table: This book goes so well with the vintage clothes in your closet. I love Oscar Wilde in that fur coat!

How this book will make your fashion brain grow: By learning where trends came from and how they’ve evolved throughout the years, you’ll find new ways to recycle your classic pieces. True style comes through knowing the art and adaptation of fashion through time.

If you like this, you’ll love: American Fashion, Special Edition by Charlie Sheips

Covered from head to toe in Chanel Resort 2011

Street style is one kind of pleasure, but you have to admit there’s just something better about a model’s street style, don’t you think?

Victoria will be rated on the below categories, five being the highest and 1 being the lowest.

Fit: 5

Appropriateness: 4

Trendiness: 5

Styling: 4

Shoes: 5

Hair: 4

Makeup: 5

Pose: 4

Confidence: 4

This look is so chic on Victoria, especially with the 6 inch Louboutins. I’m obsessed with the hat too. I suppose I was expecting something a little more exciting for her to wear to the Royal Wedding, but she does look gorgeous. Her best accessory is obviously David Beckham in Ralph Lauren.

The ad is classic Tom Ford, a heaping helping of sex with tongue still firmly in cheek, so it comes as no surprise that the designer cum director also photographed the campaign.

See the display in action below:

Link Love/ Photos: Boy Meets Fashion

Helen will be rated on the below categories, five being the highest and 1 being the lowest.

Fit: 5

Appropriateness: 5

Trendiness: 4

Styling: 5

Hair: 4

Makeup: 5

Pose: 4

Confidence: 5

Helen Mirren is a goddamn movie star! Look at this woman, she is amazing. Leopard dress, leather jacket, grinding on a married man half her age – lady has been working it her whole life and just refuses to stop.

Jena will be rated on the below categories, five being the highest and 1 being the lowest.

Fit: 5

Appropriateness: 5

Trendiness: 4

Styling: 4

Shoes: 5

Hair: 5

Makeup: 4

Pose: 4

Confidence: 5

I am in love with this look! Jena really turned it out, pairing the sophisticated, yet funky dress, with the fabulous glittery shoes. She is going to be someone to watch this year for sure.

Like what you’re seeing? Shop it all at 10% off at Début when you mention FashionIndie!

LOOK FIVE: Sustainable Pattern Mashup

The Parachute Hoodie: Christopher Raeburn, $462

Christopher Raeburn caught my attention with his collection in London for next fall. He takes discarded military material and repurposes them as slickers and other articles of clothing. Like this jacket for instance, that is made from 100% Parachute Nylon. I had been eyeing a different holy jacket down, as it was featured in its own front display, but I didn’t end up putting it with my chosen looks. That piece would suffice to live independently of an outfit; a true outer layer fit to engulf any look. This neon piece, however, seemed more the challenge: I was after some good pattern mixin’.

The Tank: Timo Weiland, $320

To suit my pattern mashing desires, Timo Weiland jumped to me once more. The sheer red-orange organic shapes that formulate on this tank completely complement the wild dotting of the jacket. But what’s on the back of the shirt, you ask? Why it’s the same tree landscape we saw on the dress in the previous look.

The Skirt: Lisa Marie Fernandez, $224

You might have sensed my affinity for neoprene at this point. Lisa Marie Fernandez shapes up a lovely little black skirt, beach- and bar-friendly.Though, I must admit, if there were to have been a brightly patterned bottom that meshed, I would have Man-Repellered it up.

The Necklace: Orly Genger, $395

This rope conglomeration collar hung from a single nail in the Orly Genger nook, and eyed me down the entire two hours I was in Début. Each mountain climbers rope speckled with neon, hand-tied knots wrapping concentrically around thick straight ones, clung together.

The Sandals: Love Is Mighty, $175

My vision for this outfit was sandals. Monisha Raja‘s vision for these sandals was environmental and social sustainability. Employing artisans from indigenous tribes across the globe, she uses traditional arts and crafts techniques and completely animal friendly materials to produce beaded sandals and bags. See the Facebook page for more about their world involvement.

Thanks to Début for a fabulously fashionable week! Check back Monday for another shop, just down the block.

Début | 298 Mulberry Street, New York, NY 10012

Own a before-they-were-famous designer piece for 10% off! When you shop at Début, just mention FashionIndie.

LOOK THREE: Abstract Python Warrior

The Shoulder Piece: Fannie Schiavoni, $825

This look began with my love of the chain mail shoulder piece. The metal mesh moves like water in my hand and makes me feel invincible when strapped around my body. Its creator Fannie Schiavoni hand makes each piece in her studion in London, and keeps the color of her materials muted so that she can focus purely on the shape and clean lines. She has named this collection “Lucy in the Sky”, evoking a psychedelic yet other worldly feeling.

The (non) Body Suit: Calla Paris, Leggings, $174, Tank, $98

My first instinct to match the brilliance of the shoulder scene-stealer was an abstract printed dress by Calla Paris. Calla Haynes is a Canadian-born, Paris based designer with a five-year training history with Olivier Theyskens and a serious knack for tight prints. Début had the pattern in a fierce little itty bitty dress (which I spotted first). That mini thing, which being one of the only pieces left over from Fall 2010, did not come in my size, and thus did not even contain half of one of my boob. But I needed an outfit to form the foundation of that glorious shoulder piece. So it occurred to me to try the olive printed stirrup tights with the matching tank. Alone and together I was in love. The leggings have a nearly 3-inch sturdy black elastic waistband that hugs and sucks in as the tank tucks in to form a bodysuit.

The Skirt: Whit, $225

A bodysuit is so right for so many reasons. However, it didn’t feel 100% right at the moment; there had to be another layer, if not to cover more stunning items in Début, then to cover some of my winter weight… With that came this military green scoop pocket skirt by Whit, a line launched by Phoenix native Whitney Pozgay. With a studio Brooklyn and experience with Kate Spade, Three Asfour and Steven Alan, she has created a line founded in imagery as diverse as Keith Haring and ice pops.

How do you feel about the bodysuit? Would you wear this look?

Come back tomorrow for Look 4.

Début | 298 Mulberry Street, New York, NY 10012

Elisabeth will be rated on the below categories, five being the highest and 1 being the lowest.

Fit: 4

Appropriateness: 5

Trendiness: 3

Styling: 3

Hair: 1

Makeup: 2

Pose: 3

Confidence: 3

The dress is beautiful and fits Elisabeth well, but the color washes her out. She needs a pop of color for her gorgeous fair skin. But what I really hate is the hair. She NEEDS to do something different with it.

“If you look at any movement… it’s people rejecting what’s just behind them and pulling something out of the past.” – Vivienne Westwood, 1986

At the beginning of her journey into the fashion world, Westwood opened a store with design and business partner, artist Malcom McLaren. Through many incarnations of names, a store called World’s End (with a 13 hour backwards moving clock over the doorway) became the breeding ground for their experiments of unisex clothing inspired by 18th-century men’s undergarments, swashbuckling Pirate-wear and other historically sound yet new-age garb. The photo below was taken in the store, Vivienne on the bottom left, Malcom on the right.

McLaren and Westwood took the anti-establishment of World’s End to the runway. The first look below is a unisex tunic and pants ensemble, which was part of the Pirates collection in 1981. The next is made of sweatshirt fleece supplemented with blouse and baby blanket material. The third look from the Buffalo collection of ’82 is an antique-looking brown satin bra top with a full cotton skirt; the show note went to the tune of Take your mother’s bra and put it over a sweater with a muddy face. The fourth look on the right is a pair of distressed pants suspended by springs “to show the movement”.

The Buffalo collection:

The influence of Vivienne Westwood and Malcom McLaren moved beyond the streets and runways of London and far past the doors of World’s End when musicians got involved. In fact, the Sex Pistols wore their designs back when their brand was still called “Let It Rock”. With the advent of MTV, celebrity fans of World’s End like Boy George and Adam and the Ants became fashion icons before the world on television, in Westwood.

Vivienne Westwood drew great influence from philosopher Bertrand Russell. It is his quote on her shirt, “Orthodoxy is the Grave of Intelligence.”

With that, in 1984 when she and McLaren parted ways due to artistic differences, she went against the grain of the eighties. Where most of the industry was creating silhouettes of power shoulders and boxy suits, she drew from the Victorian era and developed the “mini crini”; a knee length version of the crinoline understructure. She also dipped into the seventies and Japan and pulled out platforms, but gave them a pirouette; the rounded up toe allows for perfect balance on point. Even more radically, she resurrected the corset, bringing it back in a liberating manner for it was no longer required. The quote on this photo reads, “…taking tradition into the future.” – Vivienne Westwood.

Feminizing the Scottish kilt, futurizing the corset and harking menswear back to medieval times, Vivienne Westwood in the late eighties was well on her way to stamping her unique print on fashion. She ended the decade with a bang: November ’89 cover of British Vogue.

More on Vivienne Westwood and the FIT exhibit:

Photography by Tommy Mendes

The fashion Industry was in uproar last week after John Galliano was dismissed as Creative Director from Christian Dior following numerous anti-Semitic allegations made against the designer. Galliano has denied all allegations made against him and claimed that he is of partial Jewish ancestry, although this has not been verified. The dismissal on 1^st March came immediately following the release of a video clip of the designer, who was unquestionably inebriated, stating, “I love Hitler”.

When I first heard the news and watched the video post that was made public over the World Wide Web, I was unsurprised by his behavior and by the reaction from Dior.

I was introduced to the designer after the 2009 Spring-Summer Haute Couture Dior show, in January 2009 and while he was polite, my lasting impressions of him were not favorable. I found him to have a thick and unattractive façade. It has long been known within the fashion industry that Galliano was prone to living a hedonistic lifestyle that resulted in drink and drug related addictions and although it seemed he had been clean for some time, there were rumors circulating that he had relapsed, partly due to the pressure of producing 12 collections a year. He was responsible for six collections for Dior, including the bi-annual Haute Couture, and six collections for his own label. Recent speculation that he had been increasingly less involved with the design process for Dior over the past few years was also starting to emerge.

Christian Dior is the largest holding company within LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy) the world’s leading luxury goods conglomerate. Billionaire financier, Bernard Arnault owns 48% of LVMH and in turn, the company, which creates billions of dollars in revenue every year, can easily afford to ensure video clips such as these never see the light of day. Yet, on this occasion, they chose not to.

The fact that Dior fired the designer so promptly, confirmed a personal prediction that the company had been looking for a way to let him go for some time due to repeated displays of inappropriate behavior. The leaked footage, which was not the first of its kind, was the final piece of evidence needed to terminate their chief designer without a pay off that would have been in the region of $25 million.

After all, Christian Dior was established as a couture house post World War II and was considered to represent a new beginning. Given this legacy, Galliano’s comments were as much anti-Dior as they were anti-Semitic.

While I accept that there are people in this world who, through lack of education or for their own reasons, are racially intolerant, Galliano’s words were inarguably appalling. However, given the encouragement from the amateur filmmaker, on this occasion, they may well have been for shock value. Galliano’s personality, like his work, is known for being theatrical and provocative. Even accepting this possibility, one can’t help but wonder what might have been behind his hateful comments. In the video, Galliano tells the woman, “You are ugly”. Since the designer does not possess model good looks himself, most viewers have inferred that his remarks were an attempt to cover his deep-rooted depression and insecurity.

More than the reason behind the tirade, I have been intrigued by the mixed reactions. Academy Award winning actress, Natalie Portman, who had an endorsement contract with Dior for its fragrance Miss Dior Chérie, made this statement, “I am deeply shocked and disgusted by the video of John Galliano’s comments. I hope at the very least, these terrible comments remind us to reflect upon these prejudices that are the opposite of all that is beautiful.”

Meanwhile, costume designer Patricia Field, defended Galliano’s tirade as being “misunderstood theatre.” While there are mixed opinions within the fashion elite, many insiders have refused to comment, other than to suggest, “It is a shame.” I was interested to pinpoint what precisely people felt was a shame. Is it the fact that he is no longer Creative Director of Dior? Or that he would make such remarks? A general consensus seemed to indicate that editors felt it was a shame this incident had tarred the fashion Industry while Karl Largerfeld stated, “It is a horrible image for fashion.”

While it clearly isn’t a positive reflection, I hardly feel that the general public looks upon the directors of the fashion world as saintly. For many outsiders, who have never met a designer in their life, the closest image they have to relate to, are the characters from ‘The Devil Wears Prada.’

Rather more, because of this attention, accounts of Galliano’s achievements have been highlighted in the media. Galliano’s design talents were noted at a young age, while he was still a student at Central Saint Martin’s College in London where he graduated with a first class honors degree. His first collection, inspired by the French Revolution, was bought by London boutique, Browns. Shortly after, he was able to start his own label. A few seasons later, he moved to Paris, where his talents were recognized by Anna Wintour and Andre Leon Talley. In 1995 he was appointed as the designer for Givenchy, also part of LVMH, and within two years, he replaced Gianfranco Ferre as the chief designer at Christian Dior. Many have cited his great attention to detail as playing a large factor in his success.

Galliano’s suspension came before he was able to complete work on the Dior Autumn/Winter 2011/2012 Collection. Consequently, the Paris Fashion Week show, held last Friday, was preceded by a formal announcement from Dior Chairman, Sidney Toledano, confirming the termination and apologizing on behalf of the company, for Galliano’s comments. Since the designer was not present, the final walk was taken by the Dior atelier, walking out to a standing ovation from the tearful audience.

Over the past few years, Dior has produced some incredible collections, notably in 2008 and 2009. Dresses that are timelessly chic and reminiscent of Dior’s famous New Look. This last collection could not have been more different. It was a tribute production, characteristically John Galliano, with the first model wearing a long cape and tall boots, looking distinctively like the designer himself. Could Galliano have known this would be his last collection for the label?

While I consider that a possibility, I do not share the view that many seem to have taken that this is the end of the road for him professionally. He has reportedly now checked into a rehabilitation facility in Phoenix, which will hopefully give him the opportunity to address his inner demons. This is exactly where he needs to be right now. Many in the fashion Industry may be fair weather friends, but there are equally as many who I am sure will be there to offer him the strength and encouragement that he so obviously needs.

While emotions are running high, many are speaking as if he has retired or worse, as if he has died. I would not be so quick to write him off. Audiences love a comeback and I have every faith that Galliano is capable of quite the encore.

As he faces trial from both Paris Police and from public opinion, reporters are already speculating as to who will take over as chief designer of Dior. One name being repeatedly mentioned is Riccardo Tisci, the current Creative Director at Givenchy. No doubt, this will be an extremely well considered decision. As it stands, LVMH stock has been strong for the past year and there has not been a noticeable decrease in value over the past week. If anything, stock value is more likely to be affected by the current rising price of oil than a changeover of staff. To put it succinctly, Dior was strong before Galliano and will continue to be, long after Galliano.

Post written by Kirsten Lea & Watch the Video’s Here

Get the future glow with St. Tropez Skin Illuminator. When applied to the cheek bones, décolletage, arms and shins your body gives off a mysterious delicate glow. It comes in a travel size tube, for on-the-go blueing, and it has a similar scent as sunscreen. I gave this product a bit of a test run, and I applied a droplet to the back of my hand so I could examine it closely. The effect is like a mild black-light-esque buzz. It’s subtle enough to not look alien, but bright enough to garner a double take. My left hand is currently considerably more curious than my right, the highlights shimmer back against the light.

When to use it? It  looks best atop our melanin extremes: either the brightest of fair or the warmest of tanned. Against the very pale, the blue leans more McQueen. Against the very tan, it reflects its namesake party island in the French Riviera, parfait after a day of sunning sans top.

The sample batch was used all over London Fashion Week Spring 2010, and now it’s available for purchase. You’re on the right track, baby.

Photo: Daily Mail

From the performers – impersonators of David Bowie, Diana Ross, Tina Turner, Barbra Streisand, and Michael Jackson – to the random appearance of Isabelle Huppert to the break-dancing twins, it’s clear this was a party that won’t be outdone for quite sometime.”

WWD: You go way back with Kate.

J.G.: I’ve known her since she was 14. She threw a fantastic surprise birthday for me. You shouldn’t write that. But it was so genius I have to tell you. I was going to have a birthday party in Paris.

WWD: When?

J.G.: It was last week. I’m like all the old actresses who have an official birthday and an unofficial birthday. This was my unofficial one. I started to organize it with a friend in Paris but it got all out of hand. It was going to turn very corporate, so I said, “Uh-uh-uh.” It’s just not the birthday you want to start bragging about. The big 4-0. [He exaggerates the number, to indicate that he has shaved off a few years.] So I said, “OK, we’ll move it to London.” I said, “I just want to do something quiet. Could we just go under the radar? Maybe to someone’s house?” Anyway, Kate and my friend Francesca [Cutler] arranged it, a surprise. We went to the new bar that just opened at the Savoy. It’s very Deco, very beautiful. I arrive and there were fantastic creatures there that I hadn’t seen for like twenty years, the London posse. And then they introduce the acts. David Bowie had come over to perform for me followed by Diana Ross followed by Tina Turner and then Barbra Streisand.

WWD: Oh stop!

J.G.: No, you stop! And then the last person who came on was Michael Jackson! They were all impersonators! It was so English and so tawdry! It was fantastic!

WWD: We can’t put this in the story?

J.G.: Of course you can. — it’s a true story! So I go outside for a cigarette with Kate, OK? She has this little jumpsuit on with little sequins. She looked gorgeous. Some dirty old man walks by and goes, “Oh, you do that really well. You could be a model.” She goes, “F— off! I’m too short!” Then this limousine turns up, this shiny limousine and this fantastic, chic woman gets out with the shades on and the bodyguards. Me and Kate look each other and we’re like, “Oh!” You don’t do that in London. Unless you’re Elvis Presley, you don’t do that. So this wonderful creature comes up to me, takes the glasses off and goes, “John!” And I go, “Hi…” I still didn’t quite know what was going on. She goes, “It’s Isabelle.” It was Isabelle Huppert, one of France’s greatest actresses, who had been giving a press conference and just turned up. So she goes, “What are you doing here?” and I said, “Oh we’re just having a little party celebrating my 40th. Would you like to join us?” And I’m like, “Shit, how do I get out of this one?” “Lexie, Lexie, it’s Isabelle! You’ve got to look after her.” She had the best time because I kept asking her if she was OK and she would say, “Laissez-moi! Laissez-moi! C’est une scene que ne j’ai jamais vue!” [“Let me be! Let me be! It’s a scene I’ve never seen before!”] Because the English posse were really going for it that night. She loved it. There were these kids who were break dancing to Michael who were twins. [Galliano extends an arm to approximate their height — perhaps that of an average eight-year-old.] One’s blonde, one’s brunette. They were break dancing, diving. But there was like a time lapse of something like six seconds. Twins do that apparently. It was the most weird thing to see. It was incredible.

… In a perfect world we would all have best friends like supermodel Kate Moss.

(Credit: WWD)

“Williamsburg is sort of like my lover, whereas London is more like my husband. I love my husband, and I’ll always be with him, but Williamsburg is so exciting.” Intrigued? Watch the clip.

Alexa Chung Loves Brooklyn

(credit: Elle)