Photo: Vogue.com

Wintour and Vogue have reportedly been “instrumental” in coercing assembling the 22 designers, including Marc Jacobs, Diane von Furstenberg, Tory Burch, Alexander Wang, Tracy Reese, Joseph Altuzarra, Rachel Roy, Narciso Rodriguez, Rag & Bone and Jason Wu. Wary of alienating Republican voters from their brands, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton initially nixed their labels from participating in Runway to Win, but Marc Jacobs — of which LVMH owns a majority stake — designed his T-shirt anyway, “following pressure from the magazine,” according to WWD.

On the other hand, Donna Karan, also owned by LVMH, did not bow to Wintour and is therefore not participating in the fundraising effort. And therefore won’t be seen in Vogue anytime soon…Kidding!…Not really.

Runway to Win’s e-commerce site, runwaytowin.com, officially launches on Thursday, but Wintour’s re-election campaign is not stopping there. She will also co-host an Obama fundraiser with actress Scarlett Johansson in February — which I’m taking as a sign that ScarJo will be on the cover around that time. See, kids, and you thought fashion and politics had nothing in common. They both require a steely nerve, a willingness to compromise and the ability to turn a blind eye to corruption. The blatant abuse of power doesn’t hurt either. [WWD]

The caveat that broke the camel’s back was Jacobs’ insistence on taking his Louis Vuitton team with him to Dior, leaving Vuitton — LVMH’s cash cow — without a heel to stand on. To make matters worse, Arnault had wanted Céline‘s Phoebe Philo to replace Marc at Vuitton should he move to Dior, but Philo is happy where she is — outfitting Kanye West in billowy blouses.

So with Jacobs more or less off the table, LVMH has reportedly approached Alexander Wang, Jason Wu and Jil Sander‘s Raf Simons; though out of the three Simons would seem the most likely choice, that is unless Dior plans on eschewing breathtaking gowns and impeccably-crafted ladysuits for sweatpants and cocktail dresses.

Then there is Givenchy‘s Riccardo Tisci, whose name has been bandied about since Gallianogate got into full swing. But he — along with Lanvin‘s Alber Elbaz, Alexander McQueen‘s Sarah Burton and Balenciaga‘s Nicolas Ghesquière – has turned down the Dior deal, citing brand loyalty.

So the question still remains — and frankly, the question is getting really tiresome — who will take the reins at Christian Dior? However, by the time someone is announced, the question might be, who the hell cares? [WWD]

M. Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton was born a thousand years ago in 1821 and established his company in 1854 after coming to Paris with only a few francs in his pocket at the age of 14. Typical rags to riches story. After Vuitton died, his son Georges expanded the company and started the world’s first designer label, introducing the now iconic LV mongram in the process.

To commemorate 150 years of luxury, author Stephanie Bonvicini began her research on Louis Vuitton: A French Saga. Initially she had the full cooperation of LVMH, but when the question arose of Vuitton’s activities from 1930 to 1945, they used the old “the files were destroyed in a fire” excuse.

Which always means Nazi-sympathizing. Anyone with undocumented activities between those years is usually a Nazi. Or dead.

Undeterred, Bonvicini dug through some historical archives and found that Louis Vuitton was the only store allowed to stay open in Vichy, where fantastically-mustachioed French general Philippe Pétain had established his puppet government backed by the Nazi government, the Vichy regime. Other shops, including Van Cleef & Arpels, had been shut down.

Interviewing surviving members of the Vuitton family, Bonvicini discovered that Gaston, Louis’ grandson and then-head of the company, had instructed his son Henry to forge an alliance with Pétain to keep the business alive. Compromise was a general practice among fashion houses during WWII — both Dior and Chanel whored themselves out to preserve French couture — but Vuitton ended up, rather humiliatingly, producing some 2500 busts of Pétain and other artifacts glorifying his grand mustache, as part of that compromise.

According to Bonvicini, ”Part of the collaboration was due to the family’s obsession with the survival of the company, and part down to the fact that there was a certain sympathy with the regime’s rightwing views.” Henry, for his part, was among the first Frenchmen to be decorated by the Vichy regime for his patriotic (?) efforts.

After these facts came to light, LVMH, who had previously promised to throw their full support behind Bonvicini’s book, turned a blind eye to it, claiming the author “exaggerated the Vichy episode”: ”This is ancient history. The book covers a period when it was family-run and long before it became part of LVMH. We are diverse, tolerant and all the things a modern company should be.”

Well, of all the Nazi-loving going on in fashion history, this is perhaps the most tame. After all, it’s not like Hitler came to any of the Vuitton family weddings. I mean, seriously, the Guinness family took that shit to a whole other level.  [Guardian]

- The always pragmatic Rachel Zoe came to Paris Fashion Week with 11 suitcases. Because those caftans and block wedges aren’t going to fly transatlantic by themselves. [Fashionista]

- Tom Ford, in a position to which he has grown suspiciously accustomed, for Russian GQ. [Image Amplified]

- An Irish farmer kicked a scantily-clad Rihanna off his land, hoping RiRi and her friends “acquaint themselves with a greater God,” i.e. Beyoncé. [BBC]

- Crystal Renn was accused of being too skinny by a plus-sized designer; there have been worse insults. [Fashionista]

- Natasha Poly, 52 years after entering the game (in model time) , is the hardest working model of Milan Fashion Week. [The Cut]

Photo: DatPiff

Since being released Friday, over 14,000  people have downloaded the mixtape while it’s been streamed over 47,000 times. People love them some free shit, I guess.

Featuring tracks such as “Fire Blunts,” “Came With That Choppa” and “20Min Freeestyle” — which is exactly what it sounds like —  it’s doubtful that Arnault himself would give his stamp of approval…especially since Soulja Boy refers to him as “Robert Arnault” at least twice over the course of the EP.

However, you can’t buy publicity like the lolling “Louis Vuitton,” on which the rapper references the brand some 63 times including this little gem: “LV Bags, LV pants with that LV sag/ It don’t make no sense why these n****s hate/ It don’t make no sense why they LV fake/ But mine’s real.”

There’s Louis V’s campaign against counterfeits right there.

If you hate yourself but love shitty songs about luxury (“Money Can Buy You Class”!) you can download the Bernard Arnault EP at Dat Piff. [WWD]

]]> http://fashionindie.com/the-bernard-arnault-ep/feed/ 0 http://fashionindie.com/karl-lagerfeldshows-us-his-family-portrait/ http://fashionindie.com/karl-lagerfeldshows-us-his-family-portrait/#comments Mon, 18 Jul 2011 18:52:33 +0000 McArthur Joseph http://fashionindie.com/?p=201993 From the looks of what Karl Lagerfeld created for  Fall 2011 Fendi campaign perhaps there a chance that a family man lies inside the soulless old man fashion powerhouse.

The series stars Lagerfeld boytoy Baptiste Giabiconi, Anja Rubik, & Brad Kroenig. And if you think that this looks super familiar then you’re right. FashionIndie totally did this last month.

Keep reading for more photos

Photos: Vogue.it

On hand to toast Wintour — who never met a Chanel bouclé tweed she didn’t drape over her frail back — were Karl Lagerfeld, Donatella Versace with bff Riccardo Tisci — fresh off his glorious fall 2011 haute couture collection for Givenchy – Lanvin‘s Alber Elbaz, Anna’s Italian counterpart Franca Sozzani, Mario Testino, LVMH head honcho Bernard Arnault, YSL‘s Stefano Pilati, Burberry‘s Christopher Bailey,  Tommy Hilfiger, professional dandy and Vogue‘s editor-at-large Hamish Bowles and the Rhoda to Anna’s Mary, Grace Coddington.

According to the Kaiser, “We had this very nice cocktail, where Anna made a very funny speech.” I have a hard time believing at least one of those facts. [WWD]

Click through for more picture from Vogue Italia that were apparently taken by a drunk intern with an iPhone.

The changing of the guard at any house is bound to cause some ripples –  a loss of both footing and vision — and considering the immense talent Gaytten is following, it’s understandable he would want to assert his own voice into the Dior lexicon.

Gaytten’s voice was, however, lost in translation, producing one of the sloppiest and most incoherent couture shows I’ve seen in a while.

Granted, I’m observing, much like you, from my laptop thousands of miles away and thus the intricacies of the gowns are lost on me. Still, with haute couture, particularly with Dior Haute Couture,  there’s a brilliance that shines through in spite of the viewer’s distance or technical knowledge.

No doubt the pieces were brilliantly and painstakingly constructed by one of the most, if not the most, talented atelier in the world, but without Galliano’s influence there’s no clear identifying vision.

Instead, there are garish colors thrown together rather haphazardly with even more garish prints; an abundance of overworked and unfinished taffeta, gazar and organza that just ended up looking messy; and a jarring lack of cohesion that only hinted at the Dior aesthetic without fully realizing it.

If not for the big budget and even bigger name behind it all, this show could easily be mistaken for a graduate show from FIT or, even worse, a Project Runway finale collection.

Though the Christian Dior aesthetic was lost on its own couture show, it was certainly found by Giambattista Valli.

In his couture debut, Valli presented a beautiful collection heavy on the drama and on Old Hollywood, two Galliano trademarks that Valli managed to make his own. Hopefully Sidney Toledano and Bernard Arnault, the head honchos at Dior and parent company LVMH respectively, were paying attention.

Photos: Style.com

- Hussein Chalayan was “devastated” when Tom Ford passed him over in 2001 for being “too avant-garde.” I guess birthing eggs weren’t what Gucci was looking for back then. [Vogue UK]

- Vogue‘s coveted September cover will go to Kate Moss and her wedding, shot by go-to Wintour lensman, Mario Testino. And Vanity Fair is going decidedly classy by shooting Lindsay Lohan while under house arrest for their September issue. [Page Six]

- Apparently, Princess Beatrice has been listening to the haters and has hired full-blown fashionista Emma Watson‘s stylist for $2400/day. Meanwhile, throw that glorified basketball hoop of a Philip Treacy hat back on and stop boring me. [Styleite]

- Ice queen Johnny Weir will be the face of MAC Cosmetics‘ holiday collection, “Glitter and Ice.” [Page Six]

- And if that isn’t gay enough for you, check out the windows of Michael Kors Bleecker Street  location in celebration of the recently passed same-sex marriage bill. Those brides are actually drag queens, FYI. [Racked]

Photo: NYT

Horyn, in her usual straight-shooter fashion, posits that Galliano’s very public unraveling could have been avoided had Bernard Arnault and Dior chief exectuive Sidney Toledano “sufficiently addressed” his problems:

“Nothing about this affair has ever felt right — not his abusive comments, not his self-destructive behavior, not the way he was dismissed….His personality and showmanship were definitely part of Dior’s success, and maybe there was a fear of meddling with it.”

Speaking on the condition of anonymity, an executive at LVMH told Horyn there had been “casual discussions” about Galliano returning to his eponymous label. Both this and another executive seemed to think that the media and public would accept the return and resurgence of John Galliano.

Horyn thinks, and I certainly agree, that John Galliano deserves a second chance, but what do you think, dear readers? Is it too late to save his once-brilliant career or does time — and rehab — heal all wounds? [NYT]

As France’s finest ambassador, Christian Dior assembled 120 couture dream gowns alongside paintings and photographs that have inspired the house’s designers throughout the years. Artists that have ignited beauty at Dior include Matisse, Cezanne, Shirin Neshat, Malevich, Toulouse-Lautrec, Pierre Bonnard, Man Ray, Gustav Klimt, and other sensations.

With a room dedicated solely to Dior perfumes and their campaign posters, another to recreating the feel of Monsieur Dior’s atelier and the grand hall featured suspended dresses in giant glass tubes. The curators did not shy away from John Galliano‘s greatest work despite, well, you know, as his Mitzah gown from spring ’97 sprawled its pink ruffles onto the museum floor and his sheer angelic winged cloud-like gown. Yves Saint Laurent‘s short tulle evening gown from fall ’59 lit up the exhibit.

Model Natalia Vodianova an 330 other guests took the magnitude of Dior in with awe. It was an exhibit as only could be executed with the help of Bernard Arnault and an army of 100 fashion-art dedicated workers. It left a deep impression on the fashion elite and oil tycoons alike.

If you’re in Russia, this exhibit will be open at the Pushkin Museum through July 24th. If you have no Russian adventures in your future, bask in the glory of these images.

Link Love: WWD

Images by Igor Rodin

- Lauren Conrad is launching her own beauty site, The Beauty Department, which purports to help “anyone who’s ever had a beauty question or gotten into a fight with a hair brush and lost.” On my behalf, I will say that I didn’t lose the fight since the hairbrush ended up handle first in my vanity mirror. [Fashionista

- Gianfranco Ferré's new owner, Paris Group, has given the label's creative directors, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi the proverbial boot, citing sluggish sales. A retailer admitted they bought " a minimal amount of the collection for the sake of carrying the brand" but noted that "[t]here was almost no daywear and eveningwear was fairy tale, like something for the Oscars. It may work for a small, niche brand, but not for such a global brand.” Ferré is expected to skip a season until Paris Group  finds it bearings, though those bearings could also be found in the John Galliano label, which the Group may consider purchasing from LVMH. [WWD]

- Australian retailers are now charging shoppers as much as $50 to try on clothes in an effort to cut back on people buying discounted fashions online after perfecting the fit in-store. The fee is refundable, however, should patrons decide to buy the article of clothing. Personally, I never try on clothes, mostly because I’m lazy. If I get home and something is too big I’ll call it “oversized” and if it’s too small, I call it an “aspirational piece.” I also love finding reasons to not eat, which I call “going on a diet.” [Daily Mail]

- Riccardo Tisci is still the front-runner to replace John Galliano at Dior, but his name is being bandied about with the likes of Olivier Theyskens, Tom Ford, Hedi Slimane, Nicolas Ghesquière, Alber Elbaz, Sarah Burton, Haider Ackermann and Prabal Gurung. Tisci has reportedly already sketched out his vision for the brand and has a supporter in Delphine Arnault, Bernard’s daughter and Dior’s deputy managing director. However, Bernard Arnault‘s eyeing the Royal Wedding, hoping to align Dior with the young couple; so if Burton catches Kate Middleton‘s sartorial bouquet she could be next on the list. The atelier is nevertheless hard at work on their upcoming cruise collection and a couture collection for July. [WWD]

- I guess the Choo is on the other foot…. TowerBrook Capital, the company that owns Jimmy Choo – the shoe not the man — invited a shortlist of three investors and Jimmy Choo — the man not the shoe — was not among them. LVMH is a potential buyer for the brand which TowerBrook is expected to sell for about $653 to $817 million, more than twice what it paid for. I guess there won’t be an old Jimmy who lived in his Choo. Too much? [Elle UK]

- The first round of the CFDA’s Fashion & Friends for Japan auction has raised over $180,000 for relief efforts and now round two is up and running. Through charitybuzz.com, you can bid on, among other things: meeting Anna Wintour and attending a Vogue photoshoot, designing a custom PS1 bag with Jack and Lazaro and  a week-long stay at Diane Von Furstenberg‘s summer house. I love when Fashion opens up her big, glittery Chanel purse and dumps out goodwill into the world. [Fashionista]

- LVMH head honcho Bernard Arnault met with President Obama on his trip to the nation’s capital last Thursday where the two discussed employment and globalization. According to Arnault: “I think he [Obama]  is really committed to creating jobs in America, and I explained to him that we have created jobs in California with one of our ateliers, and also in Napa Valley, where we are producing wine in America.” Well, there you go. Clothes and booze, America’s favorite pastimes…at least the booze. Let’s just turn everything over to wineries, breweries and vodka distilleries. In these trying times, who doesn’t just want to get fucked up?. [WWD]

- Legendary supermodel, Jean Shrimpton will be the focus of a new BBC film, We’ll Take Manhattan, starring Karen Gillan of Doctor Who fame. The film, set to begin filming in May, will analyze The Shrimp’s influence on fashion and her relationship with photographer David Bailey, particularly through the lens of a 1962 photoshoot for Vogue. I’m hoping there’s a cameo by a young Anna Wintour who, upon seeing Shrimpton and Bailey shooting for Vogue, gets an idea into her head then immediately bobs her hair, dons a pair of sunglasses and skins a bear alive to wear as a fur coat. That’s my own personal Anna Wintour creation myth. [Modelina]

- And in other celebrity vanity fragrance news, fembot Britney Spears is being sued by Brand Sense for allegedly cutting them out on a deal with Elizabeth Arden over Brit’s Radiance perfume. Brand Sense is seeking $10 million and I’m seeking “internet star” turned “TV star” Chris Crocker to scream through smeared eye-liner to leave that fembot alone! She’s got a tour to sleepwalk through, for Gaga‘s sake! [Radar]

- I used to think the Great Recession would never end. Then I lost interest when something shiny flew in front of my face and months later people were still on the fence about it. Well, no more! LVMH, the world’s larges luxury group, has reported some record-breaking sales and earnings for 2010. Champagne showers and gold coin baths for everyone! [WWD]

- Among other things LVMH reported, Dior is in no rush to replace John Galliano. The house, according to Bernard Arnault, the CEO of LVMH, Dior will see a number of candidates then weigh its options. In the meantime, Dior’s design studios will soldier on sans a creative director to meet the Fashion Week deadline. Riccardo Tisci must be getting the fashion equivalent of blue balls…cerulean bugle beads…?  [WWD]

- You just can’t keep a good tran down. Brad Goreski, the hunky and adorable bow-tied supergay from The Rachel Zoe Project is getting his own Bravo reality show, It’s a Brad Brad World. Zero points for the title, but I’ll tune in any day of the week to watch that lady’s tearful shenanigans. [Fashionista]

- If you were ever wondering what former Oasis frontman and all-around limey prick, Liam Gallagher‘s thoughts on Rocawear were, well, now you know. When asked to compare his label, Pretty Green, with Jay Z‘s, Gallagher responded: “You’re going to be fucking arrested wearing his gear and you’re going to pull a really nice-looking bird wearing mine.” Meanwhile, Liam Gallagher’s known for flipping more birds than for pulling them and Jay has Beyoncé. Just sayin’. [Styleite]

Source Benjamin Kanarek Blog

Haider Ackermann for W Magazine © Inez van Lamsveerde & Vinoodh Matadin

I have been observing the evolution of Haider Ackermann for several seasons, as he is one of my favorite new designers when it comes to womens’ clothing. In my humble opinion, his last two seasons in Paris outclassed all of the other Designers’ Women Collections by a long shot.

Haider Ackermann’s Amazons

Haider Ackermann reveals a contrasted silhouette, nomadic, romantic and yet is strong and assertive. His fashion does not scream out loud, it is strong and confident enough to drive all of the attention by it’s solemn and majestic design in to the new Amazon. He is a master of cut and volume. This is apparent when it comes to emphasizing long silhouettes and hemlines which gives an impression of an endless line with deconstructed layers as well as strong Japanese and Yves Saint Laurent influences. His U-Slit line for skirts and dresses has become one of his trademarks as well as his recurrent usage of silk and leather.

Haider Ackermann, Franco-Colombian, is a world citizen with a unique mix. Born in Sante Fe de Bogotta, Colombia, were he was adopted by French Parents (his father works for Amnesty International), he grew up living in various countries throughout Europe and Africa (Tchad, Ethiopia, Algeria, The Netherlands, Belgium where he studied at The Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp and won the Swiss Textile Award in 2005). His background transpires in his fashion full of contrast. “I’m looking for a luxury that’s a bit négligé, that can be rich but doesn’t look rich” (From W Magazine’s Interview W Magazine).

He started working for different designers the likes of Bernhard Willhelm, Patrick Van Ommeslaeghe and in March 2001, he started to show his collections in Paris for the Autumn-Winter 2001-2002 season. In 2002, the Italian Luxury Leather House, Ruffo asked him to collaborate on the Ruffo Research Collection and in 2005, he signed with the Belgian Groupe 32 and moved to Paris.

Haider Ackermann’s ascension to… Christian Dior?

The recent rumors about him going to Christian Dior to replace John Galliano are persistent and I have noticed quite a few interesting signals over the last 6 months. Implying that Galliano’s departure was known within some circles for quite a while, I would rather not speculate.

Mr. Ackermann’s style would be a good fit for Christian Dior, injecting a romantic and flamboyant style for the assertive Dior woman. The Artistic Direction would change from that of the Galliano era, but perhaps the brand was in need of a more tempered and chic approach. For ten years, Galliano had a profound conspicuous effect on the brand. The younger generation may not remember that he was preceded by GianFranco Ferré, Marc Bohan (for almost 30 years) as well as Yves Saint Laurent prior to him creating his own brand, after Christian Dior passed away. Haider Ackermann has all of the creative assets to express himself in both areas i.e. Couture the “Tailleur ” (tailoring) and “Flou” (gowns) and Ready-To-Wear.

Troubling synchronicity

The recent endorsement by Anna Wintour in American VOGUE’s March issue featuring Haider Ackermann’s fashion worn by Lady Gaga on the cover as well as the editorial within, is a rather troubling synchronicity.

His recent refusal to Martin Margiela to replace him as the head of Maison Martin Margiela and  Karl Lagerfeld’s declaration in Numero, November 2010  “I have a contract for life so it all depends who I would like to hand it to. At the moment I’d say Haider Ackermann”. Lagerfeld had invited Ackermann to attend the last Chanel show and Ackermann responded, by stating, “What can one possibly say to such a phrase?! Such a compliment! How honored I feel, how can one not be?! In all honesty, tremendously, immensely touched especially coming from Monsieur Lagerfeld”. Then again, two days ago, he declared in L’Express Style : “I would not mind confronting myself to codes from another Fashion House”.

Some recent celebrity endorsement’s from Actress and fashion muse Tilda Swinton on the red carpet of the 2009 Cannes Film Festival and Janet Jackson attending his October 2010 show in Paris are just a small sample of some of the artists excited by his work.

One of the observations I have made is that his internet presence via advertising banners by one of his distributors has been very heavy since the beginning of 2011. These ad banners are being shown with a frequency that generally only occurs as a build up to a huge product launch.

Very troubling facts or positive synchronicity?

Will Haider Ackermann’s ascension lead him to… Christian Dior? Is that a guess? No, I would rather call it wishful thinking. I would not like to see Riccardo Tisci move from Givenchy where he does great work. It would become systematic that all of the designers going to Givenchy would end up at Christian Dior. Galliano, McQueen who left for PPR group and not for Dior and then Tisci? Givenchy is not a footstep for Dior, it is a brand with a great legacy that deserves more consideration.

By Frédérique Renaut and to Watch Video’s

The fashion Industry was in uproar last week after John Galliano was dismissed as Creative Director from Christian Dior following numerous anti-Semitic allegations made against the designer. Galliano has denied all allegations made against him and claimed that he is of partial Jewish ancestry, although this has not been verified. The dismissal on 1^st March came immediately following the release of a video clip of the designer, who was unquestionably inebriated, stating, “I love Hitler”.

When I first heard the news and watched the video post that was made public over the World Wide Web, I was unsurprised by his behavior and by the reaction from Dior.

I was introduced to the designer after the 2009 Spring-Summer Haute Couture Dior show, in January 2009 and while he was polite, my lasting impressions of him were not favorable. I found him to have a thick and unattractive façade. It has long been known within the fashion industry that Galliano was prone to living a hedonistic lifestyle that resulted in drink and drug related addictions and although it seemed he had been clean for some time, there were rumors circulating that he had relapsed, partly due to the pressure of producing 12 collections a year. He was responsible for six collections for Dior, including the bi-annual Haute Couture, and six collections for his own label. Recent speculation that he had been increasingly less involved with the design process for Dior over the past few years was also starting to emerge.

Christian Dior is the largest holding company within LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy) the world’s leading luxury goods conglomerate. Billionaire financier, Bernard Arnault owns 48% of LVMH and in turn, the company, which creates billions of dollars in revenue every year, can easily afford to ensure video clips such as these never see the light of day. Yet, on this occasion, they chose not to.

The fact that Dior fired the designer so promptly, confirmed a personal prediction that the company had been looking for a way to let him go for some time due to repeated displays of inappropriate behavior. The leaked footage, which was not the first of its kind, was the final piece of evidence needed to terminate their chief designer without a pay off that would have been in the region of $25 million.

After all, Christian Dior was established as a couture house post World War II and was considered to represent a new beginning. Given this legacy, Galliano’s comments were as much anti-Dior as they were anti-Semitic.

While I accept that there are people in this world who, through lack of education or for their own reasons, are racially intolerant, Galliano’s words were inarguably appalling. However, given the encouragement from the amateur filmmaker, on this occasion, they may well have been for shock value. Galliano’s personality, like his work, is known for being theatrical and provocative. Even accepting this possibility, one can’t help but wonder what might have been behind his hateful comments. In the video, Galliano tells the woman, “You are ugly”. Since the designer does not possess model good looks himself, most viewers have inferred that his remarks were an attempt to cover his deep-rooted depression and insecurity.

More than the reason behind the tirade, I have been intrigued by the mixed reactions. Academy Award winning actress, Natalie Portman, who had an endorsement contract with Dior for its fragrance Miss Dior Chérie, made this statement, “I am deeply shocked and disgusted by the video of John Galliano’s comments. I hope at the very least, these terrible comments remind us to reflect upon these prejudices that are the opposite of all that is beautiful.”

Meanwhile, costume designer Patricia Field, defended Galliano’s tirade as being “misunderstood theatre.” While there are mixed opinions within the fashion elite, many insiders have refused to comment, other than to suggest, “It is a shame.” I was interested to pinpoint what precisely people felt was a shame. Is it the fact that he is no longer Creative Director of Dior? Or that he would make such remarks? A general consensus seemed to indicate that editors felt it was a shame this incident had tarred the fashion Industry while Karl Largerfeld stated, “It is a horrible image for fashion.”

While it clearly isn’t a positive reflection, I hardly feel that the general public looks upon the directors of the fashion world as saintly. For many outsiders, who have never met a designer in their life, the closest image they have to relate to, are the characters from ‘The Devil Wears Prada.’

Rather more, because of this attention, accounts of Galliano’s achievements have been highlighted in the media. Galliano’s design talents were noted at a young age, while he was still a student at Central Saint Martin’s College in London where he graduated with a first class honors degree. His first collection, inspired by the French Revolution, was bought by London boutique, Browns. Shortly after, he was able to start his own label. A few seasons later, he moved to Paris, where his talents were recognized by Anna Wintour and Andre Leon Talley. In 1995 he was appointed as the designer for Givenchy, also part of LVMH, and within two years, he replaced Gianfranco Ferre as the chief designer at Christian Dior. Many have cited his great attention to detail as playing a large factor in his success.

Galliano’s suspension came before he was able to complete work on the Dior Autumn/Winter 2011/2012 Collection. Consequently, the Paris Fashion Week show, held last Friday, was preceded by a formal announcement from Dior Chairman, Sidney Toledano, confirming the termination and apologizing on behalf of the company, for Galliano’s comments. Since the designer was not present, the final walk was taken by the Dior atelier, walking out to a standing ovation from the tearful audience.

Over the past few years, Dior has produced some incredible collections, notably in 2008 and 2009. Dresses that are timelessly chic and reminiscent of Dior’s famous New Look. This last collection could not have been more different. It was a tribute production, characteristically John Galliano, with the first model wearing a long cape and tall boots, looking distinctively like the designer himself. Could Galliano have known this would be his last collection for the label?

While I consider that a possibility, I do not share the view that many seem to have taken that this is the end of the road for him professionally. He has reportedly now checked into a rehabilitation facility in Phoenix, which will hopefully give him the opportunity to address his inner demons. This is exactly where he needs to be right now. Many in the fashion Industry may be fair weather friends, but there are equally as many who I am sure will be there to offer him the strength and encouragement that he so obviously needs.

While emotions are running high, many are speaking as if he has retired or worse, as if he has died. I would not be so quick to write him off. Audiences love a comeback and I have every faith that Galliano is capable of quite the encore.

As he faces trial from both Paris Police and from public opinion, reporters are already speculating as to who will take over as chief designer of Dior. One name being repeatedly mentioned is Riccardo Tisci, the current Creative Director at Givenchy. No doubt, this will be an extremely well considered decision. As it stands, LVMH stock has been strong for the past year and there has not been a noticeable decrease in value over the past week. If anything, stock value is more likely to be affected by the current rising price of oil than a changeover of staff. To put it succinctly, Dior was strong before Galliano and will continue to be, long after Galliano.

Post written by Kirsten Lea & Watch the Video’s Here

LVMH shook its money maker at Bulgari, paying a 60 percent premium for all its shares – not exactly a cheap price. The buy awarded 50.4 percent control of Bulgari to LVMH, placing Louis Vuitton’s producer in the driver’s seat at Bulgari.

If LVMH were a mustard, it’d be Grey Poupon. It’s got class, and it reaches a global market with a deliciously fine-crafted product. Needless to say, Bulgari likes the deal, too. Hopefully the partnership won’t turn into a sour mustard stain.

Link Love: Reuters

Gao’s gorgeous face will grace LV’s campaigns after LVMH posted a 26% jump in sales during the first 9 months of 2010, in comparison to the previous year. According to reports, Chinese men were largely responsible for this growth as they spent more money on luxury goods than their female counterparts.

Louis Vuitton no doubt hopes that Asian men will positively respond to someone who reflects their culture representing the brand, but Chris Kyme, founder of a Hong Kong creative ad agency, thinks it might have the opposite effect:

“If your target audience in Louis Vuitton is for Chinese guys, I’m not sure this would appeal to men. It seems like it would appeal more to women. Chinese guys want to feel reassured and congratulated on their success rather than be shown a pretty model with their product.”

Kyme believes that Louis Vuitton ads that featured celebrities like Keith Richards and Bono “are better suited (*cough* racist *cough*) to the brand and its demographic.”

Well pu pu platter on you, Chris Kyme. I don’t know about Chinese guys but this ad sure appeals to me and I’m glad to see some more diversity in advertising.

Besides, Godfrey Gao is a celebrity. You clearly need to catch up on your I Want to Become a Hard Persimmon.

Link Love: Wall Street Journal

Racked‘s “very well-placed” sources, claim:

[T]he magazine’s parent company was unhappy with all the bad press surrounding Roitfeld’s alleged pay-for-play scandals…demanding huge sums of money for extracurricular consulting gigs and the enormous, public embarrassment of being banned from Balenciaga last season for abusing her position at Vogue. In the latter case, Roitfeld allegedly borrowed Balenciaga preview pieces and sent them to her client, Max Mara, to copy…”

Then there’s that other scandal with ANDAM winner Hakaan:

“An angry anonymous letter, which was circulated among French media this week, asked “how a Turkish designer out of nowhere books Natalia Vodianova, Maria Carla Boscono, Lara Stone or Natasha Poly for his show—models asking €15.000 min per show, and who aren’t really famous for their charity!”

Roitfeld also made an unprecedented move by showing up to Hakaan’s first show with Kate Moss in tow. And then there’s that other scandal involving LVMH Chairman and CEO Bernard Arnault, who “allegedly threatened Conde Nast International Chairman Jonathan Newhouse with the removal of all LVMH ads from the next issue of” French Vogue after the last issue (edited by Tom Ford) apparently didn’t contain enough LVMH ad credits and exercised “poor taste” in this editorial.

As for rumors that Carine will be working with Ford on his new womenswear line, Ford recently told the New York Times Cathy Horyn:

“Carine and I have no plans to work together at the moment, and it is nothing that we have even discussed, but of course I think she is brilliant and we are close friends so who knows about the future.”

Well, I guess Heidi Klum‘s been right all along. In fashion one day you’re Anna Wintour and the next, you’re …Carine Roitfeld. It will be interesting to see how this story unfolds, who will succeed Carine (Emmanuelle Alt is apparently not an option) and where Carine lands, besides inevitably on her stilettoed feet.

LINK LOVE: Racked

Recently, the fashion giant tried to command and conquer the people’s beloved luxury brand, Hermés.

How is family-owned Hermés fighting back?

With the POWER OF SALMA HAYEK!!

To publicly “brush its shoulders off” LVMH, Hermés invited Salma Hayek and husband to a large, private party celebrating its new store opening in Paris.

But wait a tick… Salma is an A-lister – she goes to lotsa red carpet events.Why does this event hold special meaning?

Because of the spicy Mexican actress’ husband, François-Henri Pinault. The man is famous for denying LVMH from taking over Gucci in 1999. (Pinault owns PPR, LVMH’s biggest competitor.) I don’t think it’s a coincidence Pinault and Salma were smiling at the Hermés celebration. Those cheeky smirks were aimed directly at evil LVMH.

Lesson learned: when in doubt, call Salma. Her hotness has the power to make snakes dance and fire appear. TAKE THAT LMVH.

On his relationship with LVMH chief Bernard Arnault: “I used to say in the beginning that I was like the pig in Babe when the farmer, who was not wildly emotional, expressed himself in a super-warm way. Mr Arnault does not express himself in a super-warm way, but he has softened up — I am that pig and he pats me on the back and says ‘That’ll do pig’, and I just feel this is the highest praise. This is a man who does not throw out compliments or say things to please people — he just does not.”

New York Mag from British Vogue

Forbes magazine released their annual list of the world’s richest people yesterday, and LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault did pretty well. He’s ranked at #7, with an estimated net worth of $27.5 billion.

LINK LOVE: Fashionista

What if you were stopped on the street and someone offered to buy everything you owned? What would they find? Would the items on your person truly represent who you are…your beliefs, political stance, goals, religious affiliation, or values or would they find random inconsequential items that somehow found their way inside your pocket or purse.

Liu Chang’s exhibit, Buy Everything on You(2006-2008), offers such a snapshot into modern Chinese culture. The artist approached people on the streets and offered to buy everything on their person.

The exhibit consists of all of the items that Liu Chang purchased from individuals on the street placed on a white table. What was most striking was the prevalence of western culture that had been appropriated by the Gen-Y individuals Chang choose for this project.

There was a the usual proliferation of western cultural hallmarks such as denim jeans, cotton t-shirts, sneakers, and cell-phones, as well as certain items, like seaweed, personal tissues, and Chinese currency that serve as place markers and reminders that these individuals were not your average American suburban teens, but rather represented a new Chinese identity forged from a communist country whose current wealth is the result of capitalist enterprise.

A new China that is intent on capitalizing on consumers’ needs and desires for new things and supplying the West’s ever-growing demand for quick, cheap, and disposable fashions. Most interesting, is that Chang chose a canvas which showcases both contemporary consumer proclivities as well as outlines the social and personal forces that help us to define ourselves—our clothing.

These new millennial individuals have much more freedom of personal expression than their ancestors living under the dictate and rules of Mao Tse-tung. In this era of communist China, citizens were expected to dress in uniformity wearing clothing which showed no difference in rank or gender, consisting of a military-style tunic-like jacket, short trousers, and cloth-peaked caps. Dress was used to express a national rather than individual identity.

Today, a rapidly growing upper and middle class seeks to enhance its identity and quality of life with luxury products. Much of Chinese spending is driven by people’s desire to enhance their own social status and visibility by an association with famous brand names. In recent years, it has not been uncommon to see owners of a new suit conspicuously “forget” to remove the brand name and price tag that revealed the maker and high price of their new apparel.

Also fueling this demand for luxury products is that China now has an entire population of young, affluent males, called Little Emperors, who have grown up during the one-child only policy and thus, have been afforded many more liberties from their parents as only children.

Recognizing both China’s demand and ability to purchase these designer items, luxury brands, such as Prada, LVMH, and Armani, have and continue to scout new locations to open boutiques in China. Analysts predict that, as China’s average per capita income grows, it will become the world’s second-largest purchaser of luxury goods by 2015 and accounting for the sale of 29 percent of all luxury good sales worldwide(http://www.wikinvest.com/concept/Luxury_Consumption_in_China ).

Many more designer brands are looking toward the Far East as the demand for luxury products face sharp declines in Western Europe and the United States. In sharp contrast, the West is reworking the paradigm for luxury, which involves less the acquisition of high end products and instead centers on the luxury of intangibles (time, freedom, and personal satisfaction).

The recession has now forced us all to stop, pull out the things on our person, and truly question if we really are only the sum of our possessions.

Want More? Visit Fashion Speaks

LINKAGE: WeIndie

Olivier Theyskens (right) has officially left Nina Ricci, to be replaced by Louis Vuitton designer Peter Copping (left).

This means a totally new designer for the house for Spring 2010, and a major opening at LVMH, unless Marc’s already found Peter’s replacement, hope we’ll know soon.

Wonder if Olivier will take this opportunity to finally launch his own label? Hope so.

LINKAGE: Fashionista

Seems like LVMH is in buying mode. Gareth Pugh is already on the block. Wonder if they are interested in a little fashion blog…

LINKAGE: LVMH Is In Shopping Mode

RUMOR ALERT! RUMOR ALERT! AND I AIN’T TALKING ABOUT THAT UGLY CHIN WITH THE LAST NAME WILLIS EITHER! There are rumors swirling that Kris Van Assche is getting the boot from Dior Homme after his consistently poor performance over the course of the past couple seasons. Who is he rumored to be replaced by? Well if you’re that slow and haven’t realized that all the buzz is pointing to the Men’s “IT” designer of the year Gareth Pugh, then just stop reading this now and head towards the kitchen for a knife and begin cutting slowly.

Since the hype around Pugh is swirling without any signs of dissipation, Dior Homme is apparently bringing him in for some consulting work, thus resulting in the departure of Van Assche. Word has it that the rumors began when the daughter of LVMH owner Bernard Arnault was spotted front row at the Pugh show. 

It was also said that Pugh’s show this season was his “audition” for the job. If this is the case Van Assche has the same chance of keeping his job as Amy Winehouse does at getting sober.

Could this be the resurrection of Dior Homme? Let’s hope so!

Image courtesy of: The Fashionisto

LVMH-owned site eLuxury.com is shutting down its retail operation over the next six months to become an online magazine about the luxury market. The company doesn’t think the retail site is necessary when many of the brands it sells have their own online stores.

“Starting in mid 2009, eLuxury’s new mission will be to create an ‘e-window’ into the world of luxury, by serving as an information reference for luxury in fashion, art de vivre, leather goods, wines and spirits, watches and jewelry, gastronomy, cars, yachts and services,” the spokeswoman said. “To that end, eLuxury intends to develop collaborations with the most prestigious names in the world of luxury media, as well as the main contributors of the luxury world.”

-VIA WWD

Louis Vuitton won yet another victory yesterday in its never-ending trademark-protection crusade, this time against Sony BMG. In a legal dispute just slightly more glamorous than LVMH’s recent ones with eBay, Sony BMG has agreed to pay Louis Vuitton 100,000 euros, or $155,830. Louis Vuitton got upset with the music giant because they used its Toile Monogram and Multicolore trademarks in music videos and on CDs by Britney Spears, Ruben Studdard, and Da Brat.

For example, in her “Do Something’” video, Britney appears driving through the clouds with her sexy girl entourage* in a pink hummer with a pink dashboard embossed with Louis Vuitton’s signature pattern (which flashes on the screen for literally less than a second).What makes the LVMH legal team seem even more spectacular is they’ve already won $240,000 in the Spears and Da Brat cases over the last five years. These guys are seriously cracking down on copywriting, good for them!!!

Thanks NY Mag for the info.

And in more creative news from the world of LVMH, I just saw the Louis Vuitton creative with Keith Richards (this is delayed I know, but I’ve been catching up on my magazine reading). And, sweet Jesus, that man looks terrible—an LV suitcase would probably look better if it had accompanied him on all his world tours (though he, um, doesn’t seem the LV type, which makes the company’s choice to use him as spokesmodel rather odd). Either way, let this be a lesson to all you vain kids out there—just say no to drugs (or you’ll look like Uncle Keith).

Francis and Sofia kicking it in Napa for the new “Life-is-great-because-we’re-rich-and-have-LV-luggage” Louis Vuitton Ads

Over the last couple of seasons Louis Vuitton has taken an interesting direction with their ad campaigns…by putting interesting public figures in their ads. Instead of putting the hottest celeb of the moment like a Shia Labeouf or a Eva Longoria, they decided to feature people like Andre Agassi and Catherine Deneuve.

Antoine Arnaud, son of Bernard Arnaud, chief executive of LVMH said of the new direction: “We needed something special to remind people about the romance of travel. People said we were crazy to even contemplate Gorbachev or Clinton, but eventually Gorbachev said if we could put him in with the Berlin Wall we were on…”

Well get ready for the next set of ads with none other than Oscar-winning father-daughter Francis Ford and Sofia Coppola. This isn’t the first time Sofia has been featured in an ad for her buddy Marc Jacobs. You can still find her as the face of Marc Jacobs orginal fragence in magazines.

The normally camera-shy and super ‘indie’ Coppola explained to the Times why she would do something so corporate: “I liked the ad Annie shot with Keith Richards. It was flattering to be asked. Plus I’ve known Marc Jacobs since I was 18. We had mutual friends and started hanging out together. I remember asking my mom to take me to see Perry Ellis when he was designing there. I still have a box of clothes from that grunge collection somewhere. It’s great to work with Annie – she did a good portfolio on the set of Marie Antoinette. She just selects one picture and then shows it to you. But I think that’s good. My dad and I were both like, yeah, whatever you want, this is your shoot. On your own set you want it exactly your own way, but we can get with someone else’s vision too.”

[The Times, I Heart Sofia]