Tomboy Girlfriend

Neil Moodie engineered the “tough pony” for the BCBG Max Azria show here in NY, but it was also seen at Rochas and Calvin Klein. This self-wrapped pony is easy to do yourself.

Sarier, an alum from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp (think Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten, Martin Margiela, among others)  grew his design roots at a lengthy list of fashion all stars: he worked with Emanuel Ungaro, Giambattista Valli, Haider Ackermann, and Olivier Theyskens before going off on his own collection, and their aesthetic influence definitely shows.

Precise tailoring, perfect ombre dyes, and exquisite draping, and multiple zippers may seem like a lot for a lightweight garment, but he pulls off the looks as almost wearable (although incredibly luxurious) sportswear. Our favorite piece? Delicately embroidered white leggings that wove a pattern between sheer and opaque whites that Sarier told us was meant to  ”reflect oceanic colors and shadows, the idea is to create the illusion that the water is reflecting this pattern on your skin.”

Want the look? Shop A. Turen and get 10% off when you mention you FashionIndie!

LOOK ONE: Crop It Tall

The Painted Shorts: A. Turen, $168

The look began with the jean shorts, hand painted by Ashley Turen. Tattered to exposed-pocket summertime delight, these completely original mid-waisted metallic daisy dukes spoke to me.

The Nude Leather Tank: Maggie Ward, $282

I chose this top for its stability and flounce; the cropped A-line is perfect with a short and tight high waist. Plus, the leather is like cream. Maggie Ward was founded by Three Dots co-founder John Ward with the vision to make comfortable clothing that doesn’t appear comfortable. Tricky, tricky, and totally working.

The Softest Cropped Cardi: KristenseN du Nord, $239

This piece immediately warranted a home in the Boutique Critique. The combination of fabrics so delicate on a shape that embraces the moment makes for a must-have. Since the brand’s inception in 1996, they have worked exclusively with carefully selected Italian craftsmen and the finest materials. They use a method they call “wash-wash” to ensure zero shrinkage.

The Turban-Tied Scarf: Juma, $176

Amidst the wall of brilliantly patterned scarves, this one jumped out in its regality. With the image of a peacock surrounded by its painterly feathers, it just begged to be wrapped around my head until it became a fabric beehive. Brother and sister duo Alia and Jamil Juma forged these scarves and the rest of their collections from the influence of travel and art.

The Memories Necklace: Venessa Arizaga, $325

Off this chain hangs little bits of reminders of the trinkets you’ve encountered throughout your life and childhood. Each piece of jewelry is different; these pieces are gathered by Vanessa Arizaga through her copious travels. Before she took the dive into her own jewelry business, she was deep in the design world working under Tuleh, Carolina Herrera and Zac Posen. This is jewelry with a sense of humor and a background of elegance.

The Sneaks: Ash, $130

Properly faded and bleached, this pair makes one chill summer sneaker. The design pair Leonello Calvani and Patrick Ithier share a history in French luxury and create fine shoes that hit abreast of the trend – they strive to cater to those who seek out fashion in the most thrilling cities in the world.

The Chain Mail Pouch: Laura B Collection Particulière, $760

Made of metal mesh that moves like water, this pouch slouches so elegantly at the side. It has an alternative handle to carry on the wrist as well. Versatile and a little bit see through, I’m rather in love. This bag came to Laura Bortolami in a dream, whilst sleeping in Morocco; a glimmer on mesh. And so she did. Before she did any of this, she worked in her native city of Rome for Armani, Gianni Versace, Dolce & Gabbana and more until she dedicated herself fully to her jewelry venture in 1999.

Like what you see? See more all week here from A. Turen. And here’s where to go to get your own:

A. Turen | 85 Stanton St (btwn Orchard and Allen), New York, NY | (212) 533-8200

Photography by Christopher Hall

PS – Seriously, try the meatballs across the street.

Source Benjamin Kanarek Blog

Haider Ackermann for W Magazine © Inez van Lamsveerde & Vinoodh Matadin

I have been observing the evolution of Haider Ackermann for several seasons, as he is one of my favorite new designers when it comes to womens’ clothing. In my humble opinion, his last two seasons in Paris outclassed all of the other Designers’ Women Collections by a long shot.

Haider Ackermann’s Amazons

Haider Ackermann reveals a contrasted silhouette, nomadic, romantic and yet is strong and assertive. His fashion does not scream out loud, it is strong and confident enough to drive all of the attention by it’s solemn and majestic design in to the new Amazon. He is a master of cut and volume. This is apparent when it comes to emphasizing long silhouettes and hemlines which gives an impression of an endless line with deconstructed layers as well as strong Japanese and Yves Saint Laurent influences. His U-Slit line for skirts and dresses has become one of his trademarks as well as his recurrent usage of silk and leather.

Haider Ackermann, Franco-Colombian, is a world citizen with a unique mix. Born in Sante Fe de Bogotta, Colombia, were he was adopted by French Parents (his father works for Amnesty International), he grew up living in various countries throughout Europe and Africa (Tchad, Ethiopia, Algeria, The Netherlands, Belgium where he studied at The Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp and won the Swiss Textile Award in 2005). His background transpires in his fashion full of contrast. “I’m looking for a luxury that’s a bit négligé, that can be rich but doesn’t look rich” (From W Magazine’s Interview W Magazine).

He started working for different designers the likes of Bernhard Willhelm, Patrick Van Ommeslaeghe and in March 2001, he started to show his collections in Paris for the Autumn-Winter 2001-2002 season. In 2002, the Italian Luxury Leather House, Ruffo asked him to collaborate on the Ruffo Research Collection and in 2005, he signed with the Belgian Groupe 32 and moved to Paris.

Haider Ackermann’s ascension to… Christian Dior?

The recent rumors about him going to Christian Dior to replace John Galliano are persistent and I have noticed quite a few interesting signals over the last 6 months. Implying that Galliano’s departure was known within some circles for quite a while, I would rather not speculate.

Mr. Ackermann’s style would be a good fit for Christian Dior, injecting a romantic and flamboyant style for the assertive Dior woman. The Artistic Direction would change from that of the Galliano era, but perhaps the brand was in need of a more tempered and chic approach. For ten years, Galliano had a profound conspicuous effect on the brand. The younger generation may not remember that he was preceded by GianFranco Ferré, Marc Bohan (for almost 30 years) as well as Yves Saint Laurent prior to him creating his own brand, after Christian Dior passed away. Haider Ackermann has all of the creative assets to express himself in both areas i.e. Couture the “Tailleur ” (tailoring) and “Flou” (gowns) and Ready-To-Wear.

Troubling synchronicity

The recent endorsement by Anna Wintour in American VOGUE’s March issue featuring Haider Ackermann’s fashion worn by Lady Gaga on the cover as well as the editorial within, is a rather troubling synchronicity.

His recent refusal to Martin Margiela to replace him as the head of Maison Martin Margiela and  Karl Lagerfeld’s declaration in Numero, November 2010  “I have a contract for life so it all depends who I would like to hand it to. At the moment I’d say Haider Ackermann”. Lagerfeld had invited Ackermann to attend the last Chanel show and Ackermann responded, by stating, “What can one possibly say to such a phrase?! Such a compliment! How honored I feel, how can one not be?! In all honesty, tremendously, immensely touched especially coming from Monsieur Lagerfeld”. Then again, two days ago, he declared in L’Express Style : “I would not mind confronting myself to codes from another Fashion House”.

Some recent celebrity endorsement’s from Actress and fashion muse Tilda Swinton on the red carpet of the 2009 Cannes Film Festival and Janet Jackson attending his October 2010 show in Paris are just a small sample of some of the artists excited by his work.

One of the observations I have made is that his internet presence via advertising banners by one of his distributors has been very heavy since the beginning of 2011. These ad banners are being shown with a frequency that generally only occurs as a build up to a huge product launch.

Very troubling facts or positive synchronicity?

Will Haider Ackermann’s ascension lead him to… Christian Dior? Is that a guess? No, I would rather call it wishful thinking. I would not like to see Riccardo Tisci move from Givenchy where he does great work. It would become systematic that all of the designers going to Givenchy would end up at Christian Dior. Galliano, McQueen who left for PPR group and not for Dior and then Tisci? Givenchy is not a footstep for Dior, it is a brand with a great legacy that deserves more consideration.

By Frédérique Renaut and to Watch Video’s

What’s going on in Beijing, you ask? The grand opening of a store stocked with more than a range of Comme des Garçons lines. The brand new I.T Beijing Market features pieces from Maison Martin Margiela, Rick Owens, Hussein Chalayan, Dior Homme, Ann Demeulemeester and other avant-garde visionaries.

What you really want to know – what are so many new designers doing that disappoints this fashion oracle? They are too soft on themselves, they design things that already exist! It is a sin against fashion. She firmly believes that the point of fashion is to design what has never been done. And that is why we revere her.

To that end, she is finding it harder to create new collections. She’ll never make the same thing twice and humbly admits that the “breadth of possibility is getting smaller.” The thought of selling her company has occurred to her and she hasn’t written it off as an impossibility, but she wonders who would want it? The company is so essentially her. Her current staff that she is training will hopefully be up to the Comme des Garçons challenge: to create something resolutely new. Though more hopefully, that won’t be necessary any time soon.

Link Love: WWD

SLU Editor Ramona Canino and The Seersucker Shorts

J.Crew Seersucker Shorts, Martin Margiela Jacket, Ann Demeulemeester Shirt, Subversive Necklace, Rick Owens Boots

LINK LOVE:Twisted Classic – The Seersucker Shorts

Become a FashionIndie.com contributor. Subscribe to Envy.

LINK LOVE: Sea of Shoes

Blogger Hanneli in a white Martin Margiela fur coat, Rad Hourani leather pants, and Alexander Wang bag. So jealous!!!

LINK LOVE: Street Peeper

Hedi Slimane, Martin Margiela,  Nicolas Ghesquière,  Hussein Chalayan, and Vivienne Westwood. By Brian Lichtenberg for Blood Is The New Black.  Even more than the people on this shirt and the fabulous one that made it, I’m in love with the fit of this shirt. BITNB is doing the whole ‘boyfriend tee’ thing now and that’s just how I like my clothes. (One size fits most!)

This tee is only $38, a total steal! Buy it here

40%-70% Off Selected items through out the store.

3.1 Phillip Lim, 5+1_Annapurna, Alexander Wang, Alexander Yamaguchi, Arne & Carlos, Balmain, Beautiful People, Black Pupil, Cassaves, Charles Anastase, Common Projects, Commuun, Elizabeth & James, Eugenia Kim, Florian, Golden Goose, Giuseppe Zanotti, Harnold Brook, Henrik Vibskov, Insideout, Jasmine Di Milo, Kitsune, Kris Van Asshe, KZO, Lanvin, Lovemilla, Lyle & Scott Archive, M / Marani, Martin Margiela, MM6, Neil Barrett, Nike, R13, Shipley & Halmos, Silvain Sylvian, Thomas Wylde, WJK, Ylang Ylang

Starting
Saturday, December 5th

505 Greenwich Street
Btwn Spring and Canal

Discount Applies To In Store Purchases Only

Aloha Rag is hosting a massive 40% – 70% off sale on all Fall/Winter merchandise in their store.

3.1 Phillip Lim, 5+1_Annapurna, Alexander Wang, Alexander Yamaguchi, Arne & Carlos, Balmain, Beautiful People, Black Pupil, Cassaves, Charles Anastase, Common Projects, Commuun, Elizabeth & James, Eugenia Kim, Florian, Golden Goose, Giuseppe Zanotti, Harnold Brook, Henrik Vibskov, Insideout, Jasmine Di Milo, Kitsune, Kris Van Asshe, KZO, Lanvin, Lovemilla, Lyle & Scott, M/Marani, Martin Margiela, MM6, Neil Barrett, Nike, R13
Shipley & Halmos, Silvain Sylvian, Thomas Wylde, WJK, Ylang Ylang

Friday, November 27th

505 Greenwich Street
Btwn Spring and Canal

*Discount Applies To In Store Purchases Only

Rihanna rocks a full sleeve Martin Margiela creation to a show during Paris Fashion Week. Hate the rest of her look, but the white sleeve is amazing.

Image via Just Jared

Taking inspiration from throwaway materials and Frankenstein’s legendary monster, Dazed & Confused this month presents its ‘Franken-Fashion’ masks project… a unique creative collaboration with some of the world’s top designers, including such names as Alexander McQueen, Gareth Pugh, Martin Margiela, Hussein Chalayan, Roberto Cavalli, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac and Riccardo Tisci.

Each of the 13 designers involved created a mask especially for Dazed, using scraps lying around the designers’ studios – look out for rubber gloves, leather offcuts and even an old lampshade! Modelled by the fabulous Guinevere van Seenus, shot by Daniel Jackson and styled by Dazed senior fashion editor Karen Langley, while more Franken-fashion comes from Richard Burbridge, Magnus Unnar, Mark Pillai and Max Farago.

Turning green on the Hackney streets, Dazed also meets Laura Mulleavy of fast-rising label Rodarte to talk horror chic, while talented British actress Rebecca Hall take a break from theatre to discuss Dorian Gray, Woody Allen and sex dolls. Dazed also freaks out with the next generation of psychedelic artists, cutting up internet graphics and 80s TV ads to create mind-bending new works that reflect our media-saturated age. Meanwhile, the scuzzy musicians at the heart of the underground lo-fi music scene get real about whether it’s a movement or just a bunch of people making noise – with Wavves, Blank Dogs, Times New Viking, Woods, Kurt Vile, A Grave With No Name and many more.

Elsewhere in October’s Dazed, notorious installation artist Nancy Kienholz, cult comedy duo Tim & Eric, the world’s first black supermodel Donyale Luna, the Slits’ Ari-Up, Brigitte Bardot dressed as a superhero, and the most snappily dressed 60s apocalypse cult you’ll ever see.

The Dazed & Confused October ‘Franken-Fashion’ special issue is on sale on Thursday September 17.

Written by Dazed & Confused

Get yours now at Colette

Margiela and Laugesen’s most promising apprentice brings avant guarde to the forefront with a second collection of covetable pieces.

This collection has so many gorgeous textures that I barely know which one to comment on first. Ok, I do… it’s the lace.

Most times when I see this get used, it’s usually on a horrible body con dress or something to that effect – but how the designer worked with it here is so refreshing. Speaking of the designer, she is Lina Osterman, a former apprentice to artisans Margiela and Laugesen, who has started this second line of her own as a means to work outside of the confines of her Pudel line.

And taking advtange of that fact, she is; as I said before this is just a textural treat and is filled to the brim with covetable pieces.

I am particularly in love with the dress and knits. The linear detailing on some of the pieces is something special, and the fact that it is black detailing on black fabric, in turn adds quite a bit of depth and additional texture to the pieces.

I think the birth of Osterman’s second line to further her creative endeavors has proved to be a great idea and I can’t wait to see what the future holds for her – and to see what she has for us in the future.

stockists: UK – Tokyo / for more info please visit her website.

Written by Cult Member: Inya

LINK LOVE: http://www.cultindie.com/xn/detail/2394740:BlogPost:70856

With all of the runway shows taking place, it’s no surprise that someone would begin to wonder who was behind the scenes. Their answer is Peter Gray.  The hair stylist who’s worked for a number of talented photographers, fashion magazines and designers including Martin Margiela and Hermes, is on a mission to fuse hair and fashion; with his great talents and sculptural masterpieces, he seems to be doing a pretty good job.

LINKAGE: Cyana Trendland

This triple collaboration has resulted in a pretty damn cool t-shirt. The proceeds go to help out AIDS patients, which is seen in the print that is on the shirt. The website to buy it from is in another language, but I’m sur eyou can figure it out. Purchase it here from Bobos Shop.

Saturday, May 30th from noon—8pm. 505 Greenwich St between Spring and Canal Sts (212-925-0882).

SOURCE: Racked

We’re so excited about this sale!!! It starts tomorrow and will feature tons of goodies from Dsquared2, Maison Martin Margiela and Sophia Kokoalaki. Definitely worth checking out. We’ll be there tomorrow to check out the Margiela goodness. Below are the details.

Jackets now $200 to $800 from $400 to $1200

Pants now $100 to $300 from $200 to $400

Skirts now $100 to $200 from $200 to $400

Shirts are $100 to $200 from $200 to $400

Wednesday May 6th and Thursday May 7th 10am – 7pm

220 West 19th Street

On the llth Floor

New York, NY 10011

646 613-8457

Coming out from the shadows, WWD reports that Jun Takahashi’s label Undercover is set to be the guest of honor at Pitti Immagine Uomo. Past guests included the famed Martin Margiela and Thom Browne.

You’ve got to give it up to a dude who can properly rock Martin Margiela. This fashionisto was spotted in Paris looking like he beat the shitake out of a runway model and grabbed his garb.

Wearing Martin Margiela, Paris

Jacket: Black MARTIN MARGIELA Belted Jacket

Shoes: White Sneakers

Sunglasses: Black MARTIN MARGIELA Sunglasses

T-Shirt: White CONVERSE T-Shirt

Tights: Black BOUDICCA Leggings

Photo By: Phil Oh

LINKAGE: Street Peeper

Talk about a non-obstructed view, these full lens Martin Margiela are definitely the shades to see through and be seen in! As part of their S/S 2009 collection, Margiela’s specs are expected to hit shelves in the very near future! 

Thanks Highsnobiety!

The New York Times recently published this 1997 of Martin Margiela, the genius designer and international man of mystery. Since this photo, Margiela has gone incognito, not showing up at his own runway shows and only remaining in contact with journalist through fax.

We recently discovered this photo of a man speculated to be Martin Margiela. We’ve had this photo for sometime and it wasn’t until now that we can compare it to the confirmed photo to make the assumption that THIS IS IN FACT THE MOST CURRENT PHOTO OF MARTIN MARGIELA.

Taken in 2006 by a photographer attending a party for Martin Margiela in Paris, it might be the only photo we have of Martin Margiela to date.

The similarities between the two men is uncanny. They both share similar noses, facial structure and lips. Their lower ear lobes match and the acne scars on their cheeks and nose line up pretty well. In addition, the man in the picture seems to be wearing a jacket that Mr. Margiela has displayed in his collection in the past. While the eyes and eyebrows aren’t exactly the same, it would only take a pair of contacts and an eyebrow trimming to complete the look.

While the only thing throwing me off are the knuckle tattoos (RR?), I feel this might either be Marty himself, or someone who bears an uncanny resemblance. Weigh in indies? Is this Martin Margiela or just some wicked dopplegangler?

UPDATE: Um, so yeah. I’m an idiot. The dude in the photo is Renzo Rosso from Diesel. Sorry, I sometimes have trouble telling white folk apart.

…It can if its in a Spring 2009 collection!

We’ve all heard the cliche defense of the fashion-obsessed saying, “Fashion is a form of art!” The usual response is always soaked thoroughly with sarcasm and followed with a turn of the back. But upon reviewing the latest in trends from top designers, and some from those who have yet to burst out on the runway scene, it seems that today designers may be drawing their inspiration from, well…art!

Take a look at the footage from Martin Margiela’s Spring 2009 collection. The faceless models are reminiscent of Salvador Dali’s Mirage painting, in which the human figures are also, faceless. The extreme and exaggerated silhouettes of the jackets are comparable to the angles found in Dali’s Premonition of Civil War. The Surrealist movement in art no doubt played a role in the development of Margiela’s collection. It was that same avant-garde attitude and intriguing yet aesthetic awkwardess that catapulted artists like Salvador Dali and Max Ernst to the walls of MoMA in New York, and is now walking the runways of the world.

Need more? Okay… Remember the Spring 09 of Gaspard Yurkievich in Paris? The use of color in his line was most memorable to me. It was a perfect blend of greys and whites with splashes of color. The same color scheme is reflected in Charles Demuth’s My Egypt. Even the way the lights and camera flashes hit the prism-like shapes of the shoes was reminiscent in the cubist-influenced Demuth.

Designers need not look farther for ideas to inspire and enlighten them than a Modern Art Museum, or at the very least, a library/internet. Do you want an art-inspired look without having to wait for the sample sale? New and upcoming designer Jon Wye can hook you up with his Andy Warhol (pioneered the pop-art movement and cultivated fashion icons like Edie Sedgwick) tribute, in the form of a silkscreen tee shirt ($36, jonwye.com). Now breathe in that fresh new trend smell….and relax!

WRITTEN BY ARIEL (cultindie member)

Kate Moss and a few other famies has teamed up with Selfridges Pinkridges Silent Celebrity Auction held by good friend Sadie Frost, to auction off one off items such as Louboutin shoes signed by Kate and the Martin Margiela suit worn by Jude Law. So be prepared to spend some dough and own a piece from your fave celebrity

“It all began with a group of ten friends embarking on the challenge of a lifetime to cycle 300 miles from London to Paris in aid of Breast Cancer Care. My sisters and I then decided to extend fund raising activity by organising a charity auction after our aunt was diagnosed with the disease last year,” Frost explains. “We contacted Selfridges on hearing about their Pinkridges campaign and the rest, as they say is history.”

The auction, which started yesterday, runs until September 25 at www.selfridges.com. Want to know what you’re getting for your bid? All of the lots are on display for the duration in the Wonder Room at Selfridges’ Oxford Street flagship store.

Thanks Vogue UK

Incase living in your parents basement and going to Star Trek Conventions wasn’t “Treky” enough, you can always buy these completely impractical Martin Margiela sunglasses. This isn’t the first time I have seen a design like this however, last year MIA was rocking similar shades on stage. I personally wouldn’t wear these on a regular basis, I would have to be going to some awesome party to cruise in these bad boys. 275 Euros is what it will cost you for a pair of these jams.

Thank you Selectism you impress us yet again!

Martin Margiela has released his new fall/winter 08/09 collection. The line features a variety of items including pants, blazers, shirts and jackets. Margiela manipulates the materials used in his line to create unique pieces that never fail to stand out amongst the rest. The colors used for the outfits create a contrast that allows for an extra sense of flair and sophistication. Martin accessorizes the models in a certain way to make a statement; the ensemble is always unique in every way, shape and form.

Thanks to Selectism for the pics!

]]> http://fashionindie.com/martin-margiela-fallwinter-0809/feed/ 0 http://fashionindie.com/couture-car-covers/ http://fashionindie.com/couture-car-covers/#comments Tue, 27 May 2008 16:38:41 +0000 Rebecca Alexander http://fashionindie.com/?p=3486 Six fashion designers uncover the latest couture car covers made exclusively for Intersection Magazine.

Bless

Berlin, Germany

Maison Martin Margiela

Paris, France

Ksubi

Sydney, Australia

Visvim

Tokyo, Japan

Adam Kimmel

NYC, USA

Richard James

London, UK

Martin Margiela Line 11 billfold wallet is just about the coolest thing I’ve spotted this week. Layered to look like a wad of cash, the 11 Billfold is made from leather and paper to keep it looking authentic. Of course at $375 bucks, it’s a bit more expensive than printing your own money. Find it at AR.

Source Selectism

We continue to present you some of the more comfortable pieces for your feet and present you the Spring/Summer 2008 offering in terms of sneakers by Martin Margiela. Here you see the Tennis shoe, coming in a nice beige canvas and a navy canvas with beige pinstripes. This style has been a staple in the Margiela collection for ever and has been executed in many fabrications and colourways, but these new colorways are particularly good. Now available at Oki-Ni.