As soon as Madonna high-kicked her way onto MTV, a style icon was born. Girls everywhere started emulating her look: the lace gloves, the dangly earrings, the armful of bangles, the giant Ray-Bans, the hair bow and even the mole which comes and goes as it pleases over the years.

Even though well into her hundreds, Madge is still known today as the Material Girl thanks in part to this iconic clip in which she donned her best Marilyn-Monroe-in-Gentlemen-Prefer-Blonds drag and cooed the mantra of the Reagan 80s.

Now sporting a cropped do, Madonna innovated the no-pants look so popular nowadays with, oh, every single poptart -- from Lady Gaga to Beyoncé to Rihanna. But make no bones about it, Madge was going sans pants while those ladies were still pantless in diapers.

Madonna went back to her roots with this one -- literally. She's been a blond for most of her celebrity life so it's easy to forget that Madonna Louise Veronica Ciccone is -- like most blonds -- really a brunette.

Directed by The Social Network's David Fincher, Madonna pays tribute to the classic 1927 silent film Metropolis and the gender-bending glamour of Marlene Dietrich with the most expensive video made at the time at a cost of $5 million. An epic by all means, the video has been more or less blatantly copied by both Christina Aguilera and Gaga. But the original still stands head and shoulder pads above the rest.

Madge continued her magnificent obsession with old Hollywood in this, her greatest sartorial achievement to date. "Vogue" was Madonna's love letter to 30s and 40s glamour -- "Greta Garbo and Monroe, Dietrich and Dimaggio" -- all wrapped up chicly in the voguing trend brought to light by the classic documentary Paris Is Burning. Every thing about this video and every look in it is absolutely flawless -- particularly this blouse giving the illusion of being sheer and the Veronica Lake wave she sports intermittently throughout.

Directed by fashion photographer Fabien Baron and featuring a cameo from 90s music video staple Naomi Campbell, "Erotica" was Madonna's 2nd video banned from MTV after "Justify My Love" two years prior. But all controversy aside, have you ever seen a more chic dominatrix? Bonus points for the gold tooth.

Madonna really classed it up for this video and for good reason. At the time she was lobbying to play the role of Eva Perón in Evita, which of course she subsequently got. Is it any wonder, what with her perfectly painted pout, elbow-length opera gloves and the pièce de résistance -- that stunning veil -- that Argentina would want to cry for her?

Then of course that class went flying out the window. Donning a catsuit and cornrows, Madonna literally and figuratively said "fuck you" to all of her critics. Over a decade later, Xtina wore a very similar look in "Not Myself Tonight," but one good catsuit deserves another.

After a hiatus that saw the birth of the future messiah known as Lourdes Leon, Madonna came roaring back with "Frozen." Wearing beautifully gothic gowns by a then-unknown Olivier Theyskens, Madonna heralded yet another reinvention: that of the Eastern-enlightened earth mother. Who knew the Kabbalah thing would last this long?

Madonna really decided to pimp herself out for "Music" -- white fur coat, white jumpsuit and enough jewelry to make even the balling-est rapper blanch. With Madonna, you either go bling or you go home.

Inching ever closer to the half century mark, Madonna showed no signs of slowing down and stripped off her pants once again to show the kids how it's done. Sporting a deliciously retro leotard under a wrap blouse and Farrah Fawcet's iconic do, the Material Girl proved that some things just get better with age.

Sarier, an alum from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp (think Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten, Martin Margiela, among others)  grew his design roots at a lengthy list of fashion all stars: he worked with Emanuel Ungaro, Giambattista Valli, Haider Ackermann, and Olivier Theyskens before going off on his own collection, and their aesthetic influence definitely shows.

Precise tailoring, perfect ombre dyes, and exquisite draping, and multiple zippers may seem like a lot for a lightweight garment, but he pulls off the looks as almost wearable (although incredibly luxurious) sportswear. Our favorite piece? Delicately embroidered white leggings that wove a pattern between sheer and opaque whites that Sarier told us was meant to  ”reflect oceanic colors and shadows, the idea is to create the illusion that the water is reflecting this pattern on your skin.”

*Kate Middleton‘s Alexander McQueen was a late addition and Rubenstein had to cut one of the dresses to keep the list to 100. So it was sayonara Nancy Reagan and her white one-shoulder inauguration ball gown. Michelle Obama‘s Jason Wu, however, remained in tact. [WWD, sub req'd]

Reese Witherspoon in Olivier Theyskens for Nina Ricci, 2007 Golden Globes: “Witherspoon’s slimmer figure, now snugly zipped into a strapless, canary-yellow silk brocade Nina Ricci cocktail dress, screamed, ‘Screw you, buddy!’”

Chanel RTW spring 2011: “Models rarely smile these days, but you can sense when they enjoy what they’re wearing. Kass could barely contain her delight.”

Rita Hayworth in Jean Louis, 1946,“Gilda”: “Strapless dresses owe their enduring popularity to Rita Hayworth.”

Julia Roberts in Marilyn Vance-Straker, 1990, “Pretty Woman”: “No matter how many times you have seen the film, the moment you can clearly recall is when you fell hopelessly in love with Julia Roberts — and that moment is marked by a dress.”

Michelle Obama in Jason Wu, 2009 Inaugural Ball: “Wu and the three women on his team set to work, spending more than three hundred hours making the gown.”

Halle Berry in Elie Saab, 2002 Academy Awards: “Because the gown was so right on her, it is the only one we ever imagine her in, regardless of how many premieres she graces.”

Princess Diana in David and Elizabeth Emanuel, 1981: “Let’s be honest. The gown is hideous…but it became one of the most copied Big Day gowns in history.”

Charlize Theron in Vera Wang, 2000 Academy Awards: “’We came real close,’ said Wang about the how-low-as-you-can-go open back.”

Marilyn Monroe in William Travilla, 1955, “The Seven Year Itch:” “Why the continued frenzy for an almost 60-year-old summer halter? Because of how it looked on the woman who wore it.”

Nicole Kidman in John Galliano for Dior, 1997 Academy Awards: “This wasn’t merely a sensational creation. This was haute couture-claiming turf.”

Kate Middleton in Alexander McQueen, 2011: “The legendarily loose-lipped House of Windsor became so close-mouthed it was as if there’d been a run on duct tape.”

Jennifer Lopez in Donatella Versace, 2000 Grammys: “No single outfit has ever caused more commotion on any red carpet anywhere.”

Madonna in Dolce & Gabbana, 2009, premiere for “Nine”: “The Sicilian dress is the essence of Dolce & Gabbana, the brand’s sartorial touchstone.”

Tilda Swinton in Alber Elbaz for Lanvin at the 2008 Academy Awards: “Amplifying Swinton’s translucent alabaster complexion, vibrant titian hair and knowing exoticism is a fashion sense that revels in her own singularity.”

Prada RTW spring 2004: “This Prada dress was striking for its level of ease.”

Deer Dana was founded in 2008 by by designers Dana Veraldi and Kevin Tekinel. Their signature collection of tees and totes feature the images of icons both mainstream and underground. the label has collaborated with prestigious name susch as: Adidas, Tory Burch, Gap, and most recently Olivier Theyskens for Theory‘s Fashion’s Night Out.

The hand drawn design are so cool and perfect for any pop culture junkie.  Not to mention if you have Leigh Lezark on you’re side then you’re pretty much stamped as an official cool kid. Check out a few of our favorite styles below:

Filling in the cut outs, Rucci frames the form in sheer workings. Chado Ralph Rucci

Give us those giant shoulders and we're happy, but that skirt layering kicks it up. Sally Lapointe

Business sheers take it back and forward decades. Thom Browne

Take it to the plastics, this sheer will hit the beach. Cynthia Rowley

Ocean sheer up top sets a scene for the trailing print to tell. Peter Som

Cut out are supplemented with a Wang size mesh. Faster by Mark Fast

Loose knit mesh shrouds the body in sportswear. Just make sure your pockets are clean and tidy. Alexander Wang

Take this look clear across to neons. It's how you catch it from a distance. Rebecca Minkoff

Full length hollow striation lace becomes new world basic layering. Theysken's Therrorist

Cascading reds in layers of mesh glimmers slightly translucent. Oscar de la Renta

Shiny sheer uses metallics to cover up. Philosophy

Maximizing the use of white space, Calvin remains minimal. Calvin Klein

Shimmering sheer, this dress sees and feels in water. Marc Jacobs

Some of the pieces were made exclusively for Elle and are available for purchase on the mag’s website from June 14th through July 14th, while supplies last.

Theyskens, for his part, couldn’t be happier at how it all turned out: “Its great to see how each stylist mixed everything up. It’s like they went to a vintage store and discovered all these cool finds.  They gave me some great ideas for the brand.” [WWD, Elle]

1. Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy

2. Olivier Theyskens of Theory

3. Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler

Though Jack looks super fun as he drunkenly tongues Thakoon (#10)

4. Nicolas Ghesquière of Balenciaga

5. Olivier Rousteing of Balmain

6. Joseph Altuzarra of Altuzarra

7. Thom Brown of Thom Browne/Moncler Gamme Bleu

8. Nicola Formichetti of Mugler

Nicola Formichetti, YEAH! Terry Richardson...not so much

9. Prabal Gurung (of Prabal Gurung)

10. Thakoon Panichgul of Thakoon

Humpable Hall of Fame: Tom Ford

and

Marc Jacobs

Though Jack looks super fun as he drunkenly tongues Thakoon (#10)

Nicole Formichetti, YEAH! Terry Richardson...not so much

Prabal

In the book’s introduction, Sally Singer, editor of T Magazine, is quick to point out that this is not your typical behind the curtains tome. That’s owed primarily to the fact that Julien Claessens is not a fashion photographer. In fact he admits that he doesn’t really understand fashion, but he understands his friend Olivier’s work.

So it’s no surprise that his photos aren’t perfectly-posed, editorial-ready snapshots, but abstract portraits that offer a glimpse into a world of extremes: extreme beauty, extreme bodies and an almost otherworldly charm. The star of these portraits, however, are still Theyskens minutely-crafted work.

Like malleable sculptures, Theyskens clothes wrap and drape themselves over the skeletal  frames of Lily Donaldson, Hilary Rhoda, Gemma Ward, Olga Sherer, Lara Stone, Tanya Dziahileva, Catherine McNeil and Sasha Pivovarova, lending a strength, elegance and sophistication otherwise at odds with their prepubescent fragility.

The Other Side of the Picture chronicles Theyskens career chronologically, ending before he began his newest phase at Theory, but Nina Ricci’s Fall/Winter ’09 collection is a fitting denouement, both for the book and for Theyskens time at the brand. That particular collection is the peak of Theyskens craft and a comforting reminder that talent like his shall and will not be wasted. Also, I’m still not over these tranny heels:

Julien Claessens, without understanding fashion, is able to completely grasp the work of Olivier Theyskens. As Claessens says about his friend’s work, “There’s something here that is part of my universe.” His clothes speak, live and breathe through Claessens’ photos because Theyskens intended them to speak, live and breathe on the women he dresses. Claessens and Theyskens simply speak the same language.

What owning this book says about you: You’re a serious-minded fashionista who admires Olivier’s dark aesthetic and/or his dark hotness.

What your dinner guests will say upon seeing this book on your coffee table: “Oh, wow, someone’s pretentious. And fabulous.”

How this book will make your fashion brain grow: Though you’re not likely to gain much in the way of knowledge from The Other Side of the Picture, you’re heart will swell at its beauty.

If you like this, you’ll love: Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty. The book to the Met exhibit is on sale — having had a quick look at it this morning we can definitely say it is worth the 30 bucks (plus free shipping, y’all!)

- Australian retailers are now charging shoppers as much as $50 to try on clothes in an effort to cut back on people buying discounted fashions online after perfecting the fit in-store. The fee is refundable, however, should patrons decide to buy the article of clothing. Personally, I never try on clothes, mostly because I’m lazy. If I get home and something is too big I’ll call it “oversized” and if it’s too small, I call it an “aspirational piece.” I also love finding reasons to not eat, which I call “going on a diet.” [Daily Mail]

- Riccardo Tisci is still the front-runner to replace John Galliano at Dior, but his name is being bandied about with the likes of Olivier Theyskens, Tom Ford, Hedi Slimane, Nicolas Ghesquière, Alber Elbaz, Sarah Burton, Haider Ackermann and Prabal Gurung. Tisci has reportedly already sketched out his vision for the brand and has a supporter in Delphine Arnault, Bernard’s daughter and Dior’s deputy managing director. However, Bernard Arnault‘s eyeing the Royal Wedding, hoping to align Dior with the young couple; so if Burton catches Kate Middleton‘s sartorial bouquet she could be next on the list. The atelier is nevertheless hard at work on their upcoming cruise collection and a couture collection for July. [WWD]

Own a before-they-were-famous designer piece for 10% off! When you shop at Début, just mention FashionIndie.

LOOK THREE: Abstract Python Warrior

The Shoulder Piece: Fannie Schiavoni, $825

This look began with my love of the chain mail shoulder piece. The metal mesh moves like water in my hand and makes me feel invincible when strapped around my body. Its creator Fannie Schiavoni hand makes each piece in her studion in London, and keeps the color of her materials muted so that she can focus purely on the shape and clean lines. She has named this collection “Lucy in the Sky”, evoking a psychedelic yet other worldly feeling.

The (non) Body Suit: Calla Paris, Leggings, $174, Tank, $98

My first instinct to match the brilliance of the shoulder scene-stealer was an abstract printed dress by Calla Paris. Calla Haynes is a Canadian-born, Paris based designer with a five-year training history with Olivier Theyskens and a serious knack for tight prints. Début had the pattern in a fierce little itty bitty dress (which I spotted first). That mini thing, which being one of the only pieces left over from Fall 2010, did not come in my size, and thus did not even contain half of one of my boob. But I needed an outfit to form the foundation of that glorious shoulder piece. So it occurred to me to try the olive printed stirrup tights with the matching tank. Alone and together I was in love. The leggings have a nearly 3-inch sturdy black elastic waistband that hugs and sucks in as the tank tucks in to form a bodysuit.

The Skirt: Whit, $225

A bodysuit is so right for so many reasons. However, it didn’t feel 100% right at the moment; there had to be another layer, if not to cover more stunning items in Début, then to cover some of my winter weight… With that came this military green scoop pocket skirt by Whit, a line launched by Phoenix native Whitney Pozgay. With a studio Brooklyn and experience with Kate Spade, Three Asfour and Steven Alan, she has created a line founded in imagery as diverse as Keith Haring and ice pops.

How do you feel about the bodysuit? Would you wear this look?

Come back tomorrow for Look 4.

Début | 298 Mulberry Street, New York, NY 10012

LINK LOVE: Style.com

Theyskens with Theory president, Andrew Rosen

Theyskens will take over design responsibilities for the entire label in addition to designing a capsule collection, Theyskens Theory, that will launch in Spring 2011.

Olivier did wonders for Nina Ricci and I can’t wait to see his theories on Theory.

LINK LOVE: WWD

Theyskens with Theory president, Andrew Rosen

The collaboration collection, which will debut in September along with the spring 2011 collections at New York Fashion Week, will cost more than regular Theory: Andre Rosen, owner of the label, stated:  “It’s not like selling Olivier Theyskens, the label, at a cheaper price. It really is allowing Olivier Theyskens to design….

This is the only Olivier Theyskens collection that is going to be available. It has to come from Olivier’s inspiration and from his soul. It has to be authentic, so I think some of it will be much higher priced — even than what we’re doing.”

LINK LOVE: NY Mag via WWD

“For a long time, I’ve been looking for a way of working with affordable fashion. I think Theory is the right brand to do this. It was a big intuition for me to do this Theyskens/Theory project – I’m super excited by it! I think today, you can find great things at a great price. As a designer, I’m not a guy that can be put in a niche. I’m a guy who can also put his mind to something more global and accessible. Also, I’ve always been hoping that my friends can buy what I design.”

LINK LOVE: Fashionologie

A strange collaboration yet we’re all very curious! Olivier hasn’t done much since his departure from Nina Ricci, but the possibility of being able to afford his designs is very exciting. No details have been released yet, we’ll keep you posted.

LINK LOVE: NY Mag via WWD

Lady Gaga had 4 costume changes last night, all of which left us wondering. Here is a closer detailed look at each. In the first, her hair is obviously part of the body suit. In the second, Gaga is wearing custom Armani and a custom matching Philip Treacy headpiece. Her shoes greatly resemble those designed by Olivier Theyskens for Nina Ricci. In the last image Gaga sports the full body suit, again, over which is an interesting mini dress with a butt phoof! Oh how I adore her!

More detailed photos on NY Mag

You must get this book, we’ve been talking about it for months, OLIVIER THEYSKENS, THE OTHER SIDE OF THE PICTURE is only $75 on Gilt today! Other amazing books for your consideration: DIOR 60 YEAR ANNIVERSARY, HIDDEN UNDERNEATH: A HISTORY OF LINGERIE, and THE ULTIMATE COLLECTION: BARBIE. Click here to join.

The recently fired, Olivier Theyskens, is keeping himself busy by sketching collections. According to New York Mag, he’s already got three collections he’s ready to put into production. To bad no body cares…

LINK LOVE: Olivier Theyskens Already Has Three or Four New Collections Sketched

Olivier Theyskens, former designer of Nina Ricci and Rochas, accepted an invitation to pose for a fashion spread in the latest issue of Paris, LA magazine. Keep reading on WWD

Assouline forthcoming book on ex–Nina Ricci designer Olivier Theyskens’s career, featuring the stunning photographs of Julien Claessens, is now available for preorder for $120. Leaf through a few pages on Assouline’s site.

LINK LOVE: The Cut via Assouline

The rebranding of Nina Ricci was inevitable with the recent replacement of Olivier Theyskens. Peter Copping introduced a much softer vibe to the label, bringing some girly, somewhat Victorian, tiered dresses and little cardigan numbers. The collection was “pretty,” far from the edgy, mysterious look Theyskens contributed to the label. I can’t say it’s a change I’m embracing with open arms, but Copping knows his shtick and I look forward to more from him.

Find more photos like this on CULT

Thanks Style!

GALLERY: FIRST LOOK: Alex Dunstan’s First Time

 Check out Hedi Slimane’s Diary here! Thanks for the tip Fashion Copious!

The rumors about Peter Copping heading design at Nina Ricci are true. On Monday, the ex–Louis Vuitton designer officialy replaced Olivier Theyskens, and started working on a resort collection to be unveiled in late June. However, his first runway show won’t take place until next March,  allowing  him plenty of  time to situate himself  in the label before coming-out at Paris Fashion Week.

Olivier Theyskens (right) has officially left Nina Ricci, to be replaced by Louis Vuitton designer Peter Copping (left).

This means a totally new designer for the house for Spring 2010, and a major opening at LVMH, unless Marc’s already found Peter’s replacement, hope we’ll know soon.

Wonder if Olivier will take this opportunity to finally launch his own label? Hope so.

LINKAGE: Fashionista

On the brighter side, Gareth Pugh is rumored to consult for Dior Homme! This rumor took flight when Delphine Arnault, daughter of LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault was seen front row at the recent Pugh menswear show!

Thanks Fashion Copious! 

“When the economy changes, it’s not like you want to start eating bad-tasting chocolate, you have to stay true to what you’re doing, and the house of Nina is about luxury.”

Olivier Theyskens said after showing his pre-fall collection for Nina Ricci in New Yor.

LINKAGE: WWD

The word on the street is that Olivier Theyskens is on his way out of Nina Ricci. Apparently, his Spring 2009 failed to impress buyers.

So sad considering that Anna Wintour herself gave Theysken’s her personal vote of confidence by giving the designer a CFDA award back in 2002 when he was heading design at Rochas at the tender age of 25.

Honestly though, isn’t it about time this designer got his own line?

Sourc The Cut

Accessories designer Natalia Brilli is another one of those grown-up goth visionaries. Like Gareth Pugh and Olivier Bobin, Brilli designs pieces that are dark, conceptual, intriguing, and daring.

Belgian-born and Paris-based, Brilli attended La Cambre in Brussels and started out in the theater, designing sets and costumes.  Gradually she began collaborations with fashion designers.  In 2003 she enrolled at Paris’ Institut Francais de la Mode (IFM).  Here she began her devotion to accessories design.  In 2004 she not only joined Rochas under Olivier Theyskens, but also launched her own line.

Her handmade leather jewelry and accessories are now like ink spreading across the globe.  From sculptural bags to layered necklaces, the weighty black make Brilli’s pieces look serious — but they often have a humorous tint.  She’s made a laptop sleeve with a keyboard molded on the outside, and her signature “Nolex” bracelet (bottom image), which is a leather-wrapped fake watch.

Brilli has also done art installations, and won the Association Nationale pour le Developpement des Arts de la Mode (ANDAM) award in 2006.  

Images from Natalia Brilli’s official site and Flickr.

I thought I would post these photos of SJP at the New York Sex and the City Premiere as a morning treat for all our FI readers. SJP chose a lovely Nina Ricci dress to wear to what seems like the 15th premiere for this movie.

Here is Irina Kulikova wearing the dress on the runway for the Spring/Summer Nina Ricci collection. Olivier Theyskens, the sexual ambiguous fashion designer of Nina Ricci, described the collection as: “It was a group of girls you’d see on the street in the early morning coming from a ball” Maybe it’s a European thing, but has anyone seen a girl do a walk of shame in a $15,000 handmade gown? Guess it’s what makes us Americans different from those Euros

What do you think, would Carrie approve?

Source, Source