If memory serves, Kanye had adopted CSM professor Louise Wilson as his mentor and even utilized students as interns. Undaunted by the (dis)likes of Anna Wintour, West plans to stick with the Brits and will reportedly show again in Paris come Fashion Week. Kudos to you, Kanye, for putting your enormous ego aside and not letting reason or common sense get in the way of your fashion dreams. Take notes, kids. This is how you buck convention. And Ye is bucking shit up. [Vogue UK]

So this whole shebang is getting all kinds of complicated so here’s a quick run-down:

New York, London, Milan and Paris had agreed — at least in the minds of New York and London — to always and forever start the fashion show calendar on the second Thursday of February and September way back in 2008. Milan and Paris claimed they had agreed to no such thing.

In accordance with this — the “second Thursday rule” — NYFW would start on September 13, thus moving everyone else back one week. Milan said, “Not cool, bro” and threatened to decide its own dates and Condé Nast threatened a boycott by all Vogue editors.

Milan said “Screw you guys, bring it on,” by deciding to keep their original dates, September 19-25, thus conflicting with both New York and London, prompting DVF to ask, “Can’t we all just get along?”

Then New York said, “Fine, you win” and offered to move the dates of the September 2012 shows, to Septembr 6 (the first Thursday) through September 13.

Milan said, “Damn right we win,” then decided to throw its weight around by stipulating that New York had to cut out the September 13 date to accommodate London’s men’s collections. And New York said, “Fuggedaboutit.”

Which more or less brings us up to speed. So the CFDA is waiting to hear if the Camera Nazionale accepts this latest development. As for the second Thursday rule, the CFDA proposed revisiting it after three years and meeting with the Camera in 2013 to discuss the 2014 show dates.

Still confused? Don’t blame you. Which is why they should just settle this with a good old-fashioned walk-off like civilized people. [WWD]

The troops storm the runway

The Camera will agree to start the fashion week calendar on the second Thursday of September, beginning in 2013, but only if: a.) New York cuts the last day of its fashion week so as to give London an extra day for their men’s wear collections, and b.) Paris agrees to the schedule.

Paris Fashion Week, in a prime example of saving the best for last, always follows Milan Fashion Week – but by adhering to the second Thursday rule the dates of the former will be pushed even later, to the beginning of October. Meanwhile, Didier Grumbach, the president of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, said on Wednesday that “nothing has changed for 2012″ for Paris and that the Chambre will meet in December to discuss PFW’s 2013 and 2014 show dates.

So it seems the final decision lays with Paris as Milan is ready to walk away from the table if their conditions aren’t met. Diane von Furstenberg, Steven Kolb and the rest of the CFDA are currently considering Milan’s plan, giving hope that maybe everyone can get this whole shebang sorted out before New Year’s.

And if that fails, DVF is not above boarding a tank and blowing the heel right off that boot-shaped country. [WWD]

The CFDA has agreed to move New York Fashion Week back one week next September to accommodate Milan, but the catch is that Milan and Paris have to agree to abide by the second-Thursday rule from here on out. If Milan accepts the proposal, New York Fashion Week will be held from September 6 to 13 and London Fashion Week would run from September 14 to 18.

Boselli will have a meeting with the Camera on November 30 to discuss the matter. [WWD]

Karachi Fashion Week

One must also consider the undeniable impact of the internet and blogs, bringing the latest and greatest in fashion to anyone with a decent internet connection. Now a teenager in Ohio can gasp at the fantastical creations from Beijing Fashion Week as a blogger in Thailand livestreams the latest Marc Jacobs runway show. But with this democratization of the fashion industry comes its inevitable oversaturation. “Every other city is doing a fashion week. I think there can be only one market in the U.S., and that’s New York,” Kolb opines. So fashion weeks in Moscow, Karachi, Berlin, Zurich, Huston, Dubai, Portland, Rochester, Islamabad and Tel Aviv won’t garner the kind of respect or attention paid to London and Paris; clothes from its runways won’t land in Elle or W – nor might they ever be worn outside of their respective countries. However, Glenda Bailey’s or Anna Wintour‘s is not the only eye foreign designers hope to capture.

For participants in Islamabad Fashion Week, fashion is a new form of expression that further immerses them in the global culture of the 21st century. When filming Fashion Week Internationale for Vice.com, hostess Charlet Duboc was surprised at the presence of women in full Burkas volunteering backstage:  “I couldn’t quite believe it. How does that work? How can you look at that and admire it and yet know you can’t wear it? But they were there, they were appreciating it and it didn’t feel like there was a divide. Like, ‘You do your thing, I do my thing’ and everyone got along.” Fashion transcends more than just clothing to become a force for cultural change. And a force for economic change. Speaking with the Wall Street Journal, Zurain Imam observed,  ”Fashion in Pakistan for a long time has been an entertainment sport; at [Karachi Fashion Week], we are trying to really make it about the business of fashion.”

While Kolb concedes that smaller fashion weeks can be good training ground for prospective designers, some bigger names are flocking abroad to show their collections. There probably is no hotter designer in America than Singapore-born, Nepalese-raised Prabal Gurung, whose last two presentations at New York Fashion Week met with near universal acclaim. Even he is considering showing his wares abroad in Moscow, Turkey, London and his native Singapore, saying, “There are so many emerging markets that we want to in some way be a part of, and I would love to showcase my collection in a more global way.” With a crowded and contentious calendar, Glenda Bailey won’t likely end up in Richmond, VA, but who’s to say that she won’t be stomping through a Singaporean jungle for the latest in spring ready-to-wear?

New York Fashion Week will take place Sept. 13th-20th, followed directly by London from Sept. 21st-25th with Milan squeezed in between from Sept. 19th-25th.  “Italian designers unanimously agreed on the schedule,” continued Boselli, “from the smallest brand to the biggest. They showed great solidarity and Italian pride.”

To me that sounds like one big “Suck it.” The four fashion capitals have been at each others’ heavily bejeweled throats over their respective fashion week dates — well, three of them have. HBIC Paris is too busy shutting. It. Down to care. [WWD]

Photo: Trendland

Italian designers are forming a united front to decide on their own dates, out of the three following options: 1.) move to July; 2.) show before New York in September; or 3.) leave things the way they are, which could mean an overlap between Milan and London.

Condé Nast, for its part, is not having any of this. In a letter to Mario Boselli, head of the Italian Chamber of Fashion ”obtained”  – *cough* stolen *cough*– by WWD, CEO Jonathan Newhouse writes that Vogue editors “like the schedule the way it is presently organized. We at Condé Nast do not want the schedule to be changed. We very much oppose moving the Milan shows earlier so that they overlap or conflict with the London fashion shows — or with the New York fashion shows or those of any market.”

Newhouse then goes on to basically threaten a boycott by all Vogue editors — American, British, French and Italian — of Milan shows, stating matter-of-factly that “they will not under any circumstances abandon the London or New York shows if the Milan shows are moved earlier.”

The root of the conflict stems from a pact in 2008 when all four cities agreed to kick-off the fashion weeks on the second Thursday of February and September. Boselli claims that the agreement was only for three years while the CFDA‘s Steven Kolb and the British Fashion Council‘s Caroline Rush contend that it was indeed a permanent arrangement.

As for the fromage standing alone, Paris is expected to side with Milan. However, Didier Grumbach, head of the Chambre Syndicale, would rather come to a compromise and wants everyone to just chill the eff out: “When planning our schedules we have to factor in the time constraints of houses such as Jean Paul Gaultier or Givenchy that deliver couture, men’s and women’s shows with one designer. In any case, these things can’t be improvised. We have our locations. To move dates on venues like the Grand Palais cannot be improvised. Those dates are decided months and months in advance. If [anyone wants to] move dates for 2013, why not, we have the time to talk about it, to arrange it.”

Frankly, it’s a little odd that London is siding with New York considering the hubbub over model castings earlier this season, with London designers blaming New York for hogging all the best girls and the general feeling that LFW was being squeezed out. Now it seems Milan is feeling the crunch and are going to have to come to a decision soon or face the wrath of Wintour. [WWD, sub req'd]

We think the collection is pretty solid. What do you think?

- The always pragmatic Rachel Zoe came to Paris Fashion Week with 11 suitcases. Because those caftans and block wedges aren’t going to fly transatlantic by themselves. [Fashionista]

- Tom Ford, in a position to which he has grown suspiciously accustomed, for Russian GQ. [Image Amplified]

- An Irish farmer kicked a scantily-clad Rihanna off his land, hoping RiRi and her friends “acquaint themselves with a greater God,” i.e. Beyoncé. [BBC]

- Crystal Renn was accused of being too skinny by a plus-sized designer; there have been worse insults. [Fashionista]

- Natasha Poly, 52 years after entering the game (in model time) , is the hardest working model of Milan Fashion Week. [The Cut]

Ungaro CEO and American brand turnaround specialist, Jeffry Aronsson seems optimistic about losing their leader, “We are all here to serve the brand in a modern way. I make new discoveries every day about the talent within these walls.”

Will they make a star of an assistant designer? Let’s see who shines in Paris.

Meanwhile, Giles is onto furthering his own brand. I smell bags, shoes, makeup, perfume, the whole regalia in the coming seasons.

Link Love: WWD

From Benjamin Kanarek Blog

My expectations for the last Haute Couture Fashion Week shown in Paris at the beginning of July, was not of the kind that I thought would leave a lasting impression. The Fashion Designers Showing in the Official Haute Couture schedule is shrinking from one season to the next. I would love to see a revamping of the Couture Fashion Weeks in Paris. Luckily, there were some rays of light coming through the heavy cast of clouds to brighten up my day and the confirmation of a heavy trend: the arrival of the coat-dress for the winter season.

The Good News…

Giambattista Valli presented his first Couture Collection in Paris. It is always good news to see a new comer in the Haute Couture official Schedule reinforcing the statement that Couture has a raison d’être (reason to exist). The collection is quite complete from day wear with the coat-dress, the must of the season, cocktail dresses and evening gowns. The Giambasttista Valli clients are with no doubt feminin and chic, bringing a bit of a 60′s retro feel with beige, coral, animal-printed mousselines, beige ostrich-feathers and red dresses with Valentino influences.

Iris van Herpen was invited to present a retrospective of her poetic experimental work from her “Crystallization Collection”. She worked around a concept of the transformation of liquid into crystals. The volumes and materials are more about art performances and sculptures than wearable outfits like a skeleton dress to a water spray mini-dress. Her work is very organically inspired and reminds me of Alexander McQueen or Hussein Chalayan’s most conceptual work. I see a great potential in this young fashion designer, but would like to see how she transcribes her research into commercially viable clothing.

Continue Reading Here

The masculine/feminine aspect was played up even more by the oversized trousers and jackets, while the smoky runway added to the Gothic overtones set into place by the dark palette. Later on leather and lace were woven into the collection, giving Lagerfeld’s Jane Eyre a kick of rock and roll.

Gone were the flats from the Couture show (thankfully), but absent too were the sky-high stilettos that have been dominating the runways for a good ten years or so. Is there more than smoke, but also change, in the air?

The austerity of the 77 looks (Lagerfeld does not rest on his laurels…or apparently rest at all) was extremely satisfying. There was barely any color to speak of except a red here or a green there, but the overall effect was a worn but chic simplicity.

Photos: Style.com

The pre-fall 2011 collection from Chanel was themed, Paris-Byzance, after its Byzantine inspiration found in Empress Theodora. If possible, the pre-fall season brought an even more opulent and lavish showing than spring with a heavy emphasis on gold trimmed jackets, exciting silhouettes and crystal adorned bodices. Despite the antique influence, creative director Karl Lagerfeld grounded the show with Chanel’s signature relaxed elegance.

(credit: fashion gone rogue)

LINK LOVE:SKULLS//

Jean Paul Gaultier – Paris, June 24, 2010. Designer: Jean Paul Gaultier

click to enlarge

complete collection

Tweet This Post

Tags: Fashion Shows, HOME, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Paris Fashion Week, RUNWAY, ss2011

Related posts:

• LOUIS VUITTON SPRING SUMMER 2011 FASHION SHOW (0)
• JEAN PAUL GAULTIER WINTER 2011 FASHION SHOW (0)
• JEAN PAUL GAULTIER S/S 2009-10 RUNWAY + BACKSTAGE (0)
• YSL COLLECTION HOMME F/W 2010/11 – BRUCE WEBER’S VIDEO PREVIEW (0)
• VIVIENNE WESTWOOD SPRING SUMMER 2011 FASHION SHOW (0)

LINK LOVE:JEAN PAUL GAULTIER SPRING SUMMER 2011 FASHION SHOW

LINK LOVE: Vogue UK]

LINK LOVE: Jak & Jil

LINK: WHO’S THAT GIRL?//

Add Your Own Stories on ENVY The Fashion Network

Hit the Road “Jac”

LINK LOVE:Hit the Road "JAC"

CONTRIBUTE:Join Envy to Add Your Own Stories

Share Your Favorite Fashion, Beauty & Style News: Join TheyEnvy.Us

Wonder how many cows had to die to create this entire all leather collection.

Gallery on Envy

LINK LOVE: Jezebel

By old school I don’t mean that they are old, I mean that we haven’t seen them on the catwalk in some time. Laetitia Costa, Karolina Kurkova, and Elle Macpherson all walked the runway for Louis Vuitton’s Fall 2010 collection.

Another very safe and wearable collection, Marc Jacobs obviously stuck to the basics and made a beautiful collection perfect for ‘ladies who lunch.’ Longer skirts in luxurious fabrics, including leather, were paired with silk patterned bustiers, and opera length gloves.

Entire collection on Envy

So far, only one image has been released of the last Alexander McQueen collection, and it is breathtakingly beautiful.

Image via The Fashion Spot

A water filled runway, with a giant glacier in the middle, Karl Lagerfeld showcased a very safe and wearable collection, nothing too wow about it, especially the fur boots that we’ve seen on almost every other runway.

LINK LOVE: Fashionista

A very mixed, almost all over the place, collection from Chalayan. Some pieces were very out there, while many were just too safe.

Entire collection on NY Mag

By far, one of the most visually appealing yet wearable collections for Fall 2010. Gallery here.

LINK LOVE: Fashionising

Christian Dior, designed by John Galliano, was a look back to more glamorous days with a very young twist,  a cross between equestrian style and a trendier Eliza Doolittle.

Gallery here.

LINK LOVE: Now Fashion

Check out more from Damir Doma here!

LINK LOVE: Racked

Ben Stiller and Paramount have recruited Tropic Thunder writer Justin Theroux to direct the film and go to Paris Fashion Week to “immerse himself on what is current in fashion.”

Gallery on Envy.

LINK LOVE: Style on HuffPo

The fake Chanel isn’t what I’m looking at, it’s that amazing necklace!

LINK LOVE: Face Hunter

Those over-the-knee lace up Louboutins are to DIE for!! Carine Roitfeld, the Editor-in-Chief of French Vogue was looking extra fierce this Paris Fashion Week. Love the silhouette her jacket makes!

LINK LOVE: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/RogueFashionTrends/~3/5OTK2lnodUU/b–Street-style-Carine-Roitfeld-over-the-knee-boots-2239.html

LINK LOVE: The Cut

2) Demeulemeester leather pant (shout out to my friend Marcel!)

3) Neneh Cherry redux at Gaultier

Love all three of these looks..how about you guys?

LINK LOVE: Elle Blog

Dress and headdressing by Gareth Pugh on Karlie Kloss

Multi-Chain Necklace by Gareth Pugh 

Wifebeater and mens undies look by Rochas

LINK LOVE

The rumors about Peter Copping heading design at Nina Ricci are true. On Monday, the ex–Louis Vuitton designer officialy replaced Olivier Theyskens, and started working on a resort collection to be unveiled in late June. However, his first runway show won’t take place until next March,  allowing  him plenty of  time to situate himself  in the label before coming-out at Paris Fashion Week.

“My favorite part of everything was the butch clothes. I mean it in the best way. Masculine is hot!”

-Beth Ditto at the Jean Paul Gaultier show at Paris Fashion Week.

From Fashion Week Daily.

“I am overweight, so I am very, very aware of what to show and what not to show, and I am sure there is a huge link with being an overweight designer and the work I do. My fantasy is to be skinny.”

Read the rest of Alber Elbaz Worries About His Weight, Never Thinks His Work Is Good Enough, HERE

Amber Rose wore one of my fave dresses from the Alexander Wang Spring 09 show, which she accessorized with Louis Vuitton heals and bag (also straight off the Spring 09 runway).

‘The risky dress is completely sheer, with a few strategically placed black embossed swirl coils. Another feature is that the mini dress has cut-out thumbs at the sleeves.’

According to Red Carpet Fashion only 2 other girls wore this dress,  Erin Wasson, and Sarah Harding and it’s available at Barney’s for $995.

No, this isn’t a mugshot!

Mischa Barton was photographed looking like this at Paris Fashion Week.  Classy!  ”Fans” are reportedly worried about her weight loss.

Just a little afternoon snack, from Daily Mail.

The Dior Homme Spring/Summer 2009 line is nothing short of perfection in my eyes. This line covers all the basics needs when designing a wearble runway line. This Dior Homme line is wearable and stylish, yet has those few stand out pieces that really make the line worth remembering. The color scheme is really what caught my eye when I first saw the line. The vibrant accent pieces and accessories, paired with simply elegant staple pieces make this line look great. I think this line just goes to prove that metallics and gold are both here to stay, where as the revival of pink and black could be in order. I personally hope that pink and black doesn’t come back, it’s so Hot Topic. 

P.s how do we feel about the Jeremy Scott-esque glasses?

Thanks again to Selectism for the pictures!

Maison Martin Margiela presented his spring/summer 2009 collection of Paris couture. The uniquely styled jackets each present a spark of individuality in their own right. Each model embodies a look created by
Margiela; while all are distinctly original it is clear that the pieces are part of a collaborative collection in which a bold statement never ceases to be made. Whether it’s models sporting outlandishly styled leggings or countless types of jackets Margiela’s looks are always created with full completion.

This is the epitome of fashion for fashions sake, not wearability, not accessibility, or affordability, just amazing mouth dropping fashion.

Image Source: Coutorture

Everyone loved the current John Galliano for Christian Dior collection, in fact, it’s one of our top posts. This video gives behind the scenes footage from the glamorous event, and takes us straight to the runway to experience the beauty of the garments in motion. My fave part: John Galliano strutting his stuff down the runway, and posing, at the end.