patti smith

RUNWAY RUNDOWN: Stærk Fall 2009

Kirby Marzec, Managing Editor February 27 at 2:00
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RUNWAY RUNDOWN: Stærk Fall 2009 emerging fashionGathering inspiration from photographer Patti Smith’s, Camilla Stærk’s small, intimate collection was both strong and sensitive. The collection had an overall sophisticated sex-appeal translated beautifully through mesh tops, leather high waisted pencil skirts, and corsets. Japanese foil broaches, seen in every look, pulled the simple collection together, giving Stærk Fall 2009 a raw, biting edge of bows, flowers and bones. Though last fall’s leather tasseling was risky and fun, it’s not a bad thing to tone it down, bringing some seriousness back to the runway. 

 

GALLERY: RUNWAY RUNDOWN: Stærk Fall 2009

LINKAGE: Style 



Models Turned Music Artists

Models Turned Music Artists emerging fashion

Irina Lazareanu

Models Turned Music Artists emerging fashion

Jack White with Karen Elson

From models turned actresses and vice versa, we now have models turned music artists. With the earlier news of model Irina Lazareanu’s (album debuting this Fall) and Nadja Auermann working on a music career, it is easier to grasp that former model Karen Elson (and wife of Jack White of The White Stripes) is also currently pursuing a music career. Also on her plate, the opening of her Nashville vintage boutique in which she plans to sell everything from Ossie Clarke to Valentino couture.

Models Turned Music Artists emerging fashion

It is soo easy for these girls to do what they want once they have made a name for themselves in the biz, all about the people you know (or are dating, rumor has it that Irina and Pete Doherty are getting cozy). Her album is being produced by Patti Smith, in collaboration with Sean Lennon, and word is circulating that performance outfits will be courtesy of Mason Martin Margiela, Balenciaga, and Ann Demeulemeester, how convenient!



The Inter-Views of Fashion: Ann Demeulemeester

The Inter Views of Fashion: Ann Demeulemeester  emerging fashion

Belgian-born designer Ann Demeulemeester studied fashion design at the now-famous Fashion Academy in Antwerp from 1978 to 1981, and was a member of the so-called “Antwerp Six”, with contemporaries including Dries Van Noten and Martin Margiela. Demeulemeester is married to photographer Patrick Robyn. She still lives in Antwerp, in Belgium’s only Le Corbusier house, and has a flagship store there, she also lives in Belgium’s only Le Corbusier house. She is influenced by artists including Jim Dine, Patti Smith and Jackson Pollock.

Why did you choose to be a fashion designer, when you could have done almost anything?
AD: I became a fashion designer by accident. I loved to make portrait drawings when I was a teenager and from that came the interest in what people were wearing and why they were wearing it. Also as a fashion designer you can communicate with a lot of people. So although I was not a fashionista I decided just to try it my way and went to the Antwerp Academy in 1977.

The Inter Views of Fashion: Ann Demeulemeester  emerging fashion

How do you communiciate with people through fashion?
AD: It’s like a musician who communicates through his music or an artist who communicates through his artworks or a writer through his books. I make clothes, and you create and give something. It’s most beautiful thing about my work. I have reached people who I would never have known without my work.

There are so many Belgian designers nowadays. How do you characterize Belgian fashion style?AW: I can’t, I’m an individualist and to me all designers are different (and they should be).

The Inter Views of Fashion: Ann Demeulemeester  emerging fashion

Ever since your first collection, you’ve used almost all black and white. Before Ann Demeulemeester, black was the colour of Comme des Garcons or Yohji Yamamoto. Why don’t you use other colours?
AW: Black to me is the colour of the poets but I need white too, like a black and white photo. When I create, I create new shapes and cuts. Later I make them in black or white, and that way I’m not distracted by colour. Once the piece is ready, I don’t add needless decoration. I prefer to keep it pure. Still, there is a whole range of black and white. Also, black can evoke very different emotions depending on the material.

The Inter Views of Fashion: Ann Demeulemeester  emerging fashion

What kind of feelings and emotions does “black” bring to you?
AW: Mostly poetic, but I can use it also as a strong, eternal, beautiful and classic colour. Or even to add strength. It can range from romantic to aggressive, a whole gamut of emotions.

The Inter Views of Fashion: Ann Demeulemeester  emerging fashion

For you, should clothes be wearable, or should clothes express something?
AW: Both. One can not exist without the other.

I think your collection influences both other designers’ collections and street fashion. Is there a difference between those two for you?
AW: We all walk in the street! When I can influence, it means that my work lives. I see it as a compliment.

The Inter Views of Fashion: Ann Demeulemeester  emerging fashion

When did you start designing a menswear collection?
AW: 1996.

What was the inspiration for your A/W 08 menswear collection?
AW: The song “Knockin’ on Heavens Door” by Bob Dylan was in my mind and influenced the spirit of the collection. I was struck by its power and its simplicity. As an anti-war song it had something we need now. People are afraid of the situation in the world today, and that shows in various ways, even the way they dress. Fear kills all beauty, all creativity and all positive vibes that we need to live and to work. Therefore positive vibes are what I wanted to offer, with the power of the flowers taken from my own garden.

Do you think that fashion can change the world?
AW: It’s the duty of all artists to fight with the weapons they have. Every voice counts and I feel it as a responsibility.

The Inter Views of Fashion: Ann Demeulemeester  emerging fashion

More After the Jump



Last Nights Party: Purple Anthology Launch

Last Nights Party: Purple Anthology Launch emerging fashion

The Purple Hounds were out in full force on Tuesday as la creme de la fashion creme hit Colette in Paris to celebrate the launch of Purple magazine’s first “Purple Anthology”.

Collette’s Sarah Lerfel revealed her fondest memory of Purple,  “I actually once did an internship at Purple, but it was more about art then,”

The night was filled with the usually edgies, including Victoire de Castellane, APC’s Jean Touitou, a tattooed Omahyra Mota, and Irina Lazareanu, who turned up in a pair of stapled Viktor & Rolf slacks.

Irina has an album due to hit our shores in Septemeber, she collaborated with Pete Doherty (remember she was in Pete’s video for I’ll Kill Him in which she kills him. Classic. It’s down below.) on a few songs and the record was produced by Patti Smith.

“All we need to do is get Sean [Lennon] and Patti in the same town and make sure Pete’s not in prison and we can get rolling.”

Last Nights Party: Purple Anthology Launch emerging fashion

The big news of the night was an announcement by Purple editor Olivier Zahn who told WWD that his next major project is the Chanel Mobile Art magazine, when it hits NYC. He’s also expanding the Purple empire with an office in our Empire city. That’s right folks, Purple’s coming to NY. Expect wild parties with the likes of folks you openly hate, but secretly love.

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