“I thought [W] could be a very strong general-interest publication for our generation [ages 30 to 50], in the way that Vanity Fair is for a different generation.”

– Stefano Tonchi [Editor in Chief, W] on his vision for W, LA Times

In the book’s introduction, Sally Singer, editor of T Magazine, is quick to point out that this is not your typical behind the curtains tome. That’s owed primarily to the fact that Julien Claessens is not a fashion photographer. In fact he admits that he doesn’t really understand fashion, but he understands his friend Olivier’s work.

So it’s no surprise that his photos aren’t perfectly-posed, editorial-ready snapshots, but abstract portraits that offer a glimpse into a world of extremes: extreme beauty, extreme bodies and an almost otherworldly charm. The star of these portraits, however, are still Theyskens minutely-crafted work.

Like malleable sculptures, Theyskens clothes wrap and drape themselves over the skeletal  frames of Lily Donaldson, Hilary Rhoda, Gemma Ward, Olga Sherer, Lara Stone, Tanya Dziahileva, Catherine McNeil and Sasha Pivovarova, lending a strength, elegance and sophistication otherwise at odds with their prepubescent fragility.

The Other Side of the Picture chronicles Theyskens career chronologically, ending before he began his newest phase at Theory, but Nina Ricci’s Fall/Winter ’09 collection is a fitting denouement, both for the book and for Theyskens time at the brand. That particular collection is the peak of Theyskens craft and a comforting reminder that talent like his shall and will not be wasted. Also, I’m still not over these tranny heels:

Julien Claessens, without understanding fashion, is able to completely grasp the work of Olivier Theyskens. As Claessens says about his friend’s work, “There’s something here that is part of my universe.” His clothes speak, live and breathe through Claessens’ photos because Theyskens intended them to speak, live and breathe on the women he dresses. Claessens and Theyskens simply speak the same language.

What owning this book says about you: You’re a serious-minded fashionista who admires Olivier’s dark aesthetic and/or his dark hotness.

What your dinner guests will say upon seeing this book on your coffee table: “Oh, wow, someone’s pretentious. And fabulous.”

How this book will make your fashion brain grow: Though you’re not likely to gain much in the way of knowledge from The Other Side of the Picture, you’re heart will swell at its beauty.

If you like this, you’ll love: Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty. The book to the Met exhibit is on sale — having had a quick look at it this morning we can definitely say it is worth the 30 bucks (plus free shipping, y’all!)

Sally Singer‘s T Magazine declares that this “multistrapped mid-’80s fashion disaster beloved by Deadheads in dreads, is having a moment.” There are at least 5 things wrong with that sentence so would it be possible to end this moment before it even starts?

Apparently Lanvin (left Alber, what were you thinking?), Bottega Veneta (center) and Richard Chai (right) all showed them on their spring runways. So with the coming warm weather also comes the threat of seeing people’s gross feet on the subway…

The New York City subway…

In flip-flops…

Why not just walk barefoot through a pile of hypodermic needles? It’s the same experience. So, gentlemen, before subjecting your feet and the world to Teva torture, perhaps consider a slip-on? An espadrille? A casual man-heel?

Photos: GQ

Both magazines have new editors and will debut this weekend under their new leadership. WSJ is being stewarded by Deborah Needleman while T has been taken over by Sally Singer after Stefano Tonchi’s departure to W.

And XYZ, here we are with a “war” over ad revenue and market share. However, Needleman doesn’t see the two magazines as being rivals:

“I’m interested in [T] because I’m interested in Sally. I think she’s interesting and talented. And I don’t mean this in a bullshit way, but I’m not doing [WSJ.] with an eye for them at all.”

Well, Singer’s issue of T is being kept on the QT, but there is a lot of talk about rock legend Mick Jagger covering their first issue. Meanwhile, Needleman has French actor, Vincent Cassel…

Right.

Seems like this war is over before it even began. Although, this issue of WSJ did log the most ad pages in the mag’s short history. Needleman’s still got a lot of work ahead of her, including hiring a new staff; luckily, her next issue isn’t until March.

As for T, let’s just hope it fares better than W. The idea of a rivalry is always good for sales, but will you be picking up either magazine this weekend?

LINK LOVE: WWD

GALLERY: Living Vicariously Through Vogue’s Sally Singer

Thanks to The Selby!