If you were in the city this weekend, you might have noticed a number of freakishly tall and thin girls running around town, their books in hand,which means one thing – it’s casting time for New York Fashion Week! Over the course of six hours, hundreds of girls — from up-and-comers to  bona fide runway stars — ushered through the Hudson Hotel‘s gorgeous library to see and be seen by Andrew Weir and his team of professional model wranglers from ACW Worldwide.

“I met her seasons ago in Paris when she was 14,” Weir later tells me once Tanya Dziahileva has left, with more than a hint of wistful sentiment. “I could never pronounce her last name and I don’t even try. She’s always been Tanya D. to me.” On his note card he writes “No Words.”

Mr. Weir seems to have a personal relationship with many of the models that stomp through his biannual casting. He jokes with them, asks them about their vacations, their families and boyfriends — anything to make them feel at ease. Meeting a doe-eyed 16-year old Brazilian who spoke little to no English and who was wandering about the city all by her lonesome, he seems genuinely concerned. But he is also impressed with her walk, noting that she indeed has potential although she’s not quite ready for the runway.

Whenever a girl does strike his particular fancy, Weir has them walk twice, maybe more and he personally takes their photo. In the case of Arlenis Sosa and Ajak Deng — both big names in the industry — a fuss is understandably made with Mr. Weir remarking to Ajak, “You’re going to lose three pounds by show time we’re gonna make you walk so much!” But sometimes there is a new girl that also warrants a fuss, such as a statuesque brunette who recently switched agencies. “If you’re at the wrong agency, I’ll never see you. It’s insane,” he says before taking some photos of the girl. After she’s left he confides in one of his agents, “She’s going to be huge. This is like a star moment.”

Which has to be a compliment to any young model — a seal of approval from one of the top casting directors in the business. However, only time will tell if he will cast her for one of the four shows ACW is handling this season: Jen Kao, Thakoon, Rebecca Taylor and Joseph Abboud. Sunday saw the second round of casting and the final list will be decided upon the night before the shows. For some girls it will be a busy season and for others it will be better strut next time.

One girl who made an impression had walked for Mr. Weir in the past, but like the doe-eyed Brazilian teenager, she wasn’t “there” yet. ”Quite an improvement from a few seasons ago,” Mr. Weir says with a smile of approval. He then gets up from his chair to take several pictures of the model, jots down a few notes about her then calls the next sartorial lamb to the altar.

Photos: Richard Guaty

Mary Alice Stephenson wears a lot of hats!  Her Facebook followers are in the five figures, she is a media go-to for her red carpet commentating and heart-filled fashion segments, a world renown stylist who has styled for icons such as Avedon, Hiro, Demarchelier, Lindbergh and Richardson as well as serving as a brand ambassador and spokesperson for many Fortune 500 brands.   Oh, and we can’t forget to mention how cool it is that she and Barbie are talking fashion in her “dream” closet for BarbieWow.com next week, while still making time to be the national fashion ambassador for the Make a Wish Foundation.  She gives her time and love for fashion to many charitable organizations all while being a single mom.  She’s our new hero and we think soon to be yours, too!

As a fashion consultant, you get to do something different every day- which days are you favorite?

Every day is different and I love it that way!  It’s such a mix — from red carpet commentating to consulting behind the scenes for Fortune 500 companies, to creative directing, to styling editorial shoots with top photographers. Each week it’s high fashion to mass fashion, it keeps me happy to be in both worlds!  I can reach so many real women all over the world via social media, my followers love that they can get a look into the real world of fashion and learn how they can apply that glamour to their lives in a realistic way.  One day I’m shooting for a European Vogue, doing a fashion segment for the Nate Berkus show or styling a supermodel for Estee Lauder and the next day I could be helping real women get their glam on in a mall in middle America!

Who are young designers that we should be looking to for the future of fashion?

I just had lunch with the talented designers of Cushnie et Ochs, I try to support as many up and coming designers as possible.  I know how tough this business can be and how much support they need to make it.   I love Flora and Alexa from Ohne Titel, Juan Carlos Obando, Joseph Altruzara, Christian Cota, Suno, Frank Tell….  There is so much talent out there right now.  I try to shoot their clothes, or get them on the red carpet as well as talk about their clothes in the media to help get their point of view out to mass America.  The American public needs to know there are more options than just the big brands that can afford to advertise.  It’s still a struggle, for example, there were a wide range of luxury brands seen on the Golden Globe red carpet but where were Erdem, Prabal Gurung, Thakoon, Alexander Wang, Proenza Schouler?  I was happy to see Givenchy, Nina Ricci and Jason Wu, though —  so that is some progress!

For the rest of the interview, click on over to LOOKBOOKS.com!

Photo: Style.com

Wu’s diffusion line will not be as massive as the Missoni juggernaut, which featured some 400 pieces including clothes, home furnishings and — why not — a bike. Rather, Wu’s collaboration  is part of Target’s Go International program and will consist of only apparel and accessories, in the similar vein of past Go International designers Rodarte, Zac Posen and Thakoon.

For his part, Wu seemed to really enjoy teaming up with the mass retailer:

“The exciting thing about this limited edition collection of affordable women’s wear and accessories is that it allows me to reach a wider audience and bring my designs to people who may not have been able to purchase them before. My collection for Target is chic and wearable. I think women everywhere will enjoy it.”

Just wondering, is it too late to hope for a 25-foot Michelle Obama to commemorate Jason Wu x Target? [WWD]

Photos from Style.com

Hairstylist Odile Gilbert used emulsified, colored clay powder from Paris to get coifs blue, green, terra-cotta, and lilac at Thakoon.

What’s the next hottest country or region. We had the Eastern Europeans, the Brazilians, the Dutch…who’s next?

AW: Asia. Never have I seen this many Asian kids in the market.

[Just as he says this, Varsha, a Wilhelmina model from Nepal, walks up.]

AW [to Varsha]: Are you the girl I’ve been hearing so much about? You’re like the first girl from –

Varsha: Nepal.

AW: Nepal. You’re the first girl to come from Nepal.

Varsha: Yes.

AW: How long have you been modeling now?

Varsha: 3 months.

AW: How were you discovered?

Varsha: I sent in my pics to Wilhelmina and they flew me over.

AW: I love a proactive girl. We’re going to be hearing a lot about you. What’s your name? [he looks at her showcard] Varsha. Varsha-Varsha-Varsha. Everyone’s going to be talking about Varsha. [to me] I’m glad you were here to see her. [to Varsha] Can you walk for us? Let us have it. [re: her walk] What is that? Are you crazy? That’s in your blood, you don’t learn that. You think you know what a girl’s gonna do, but you never do…

[Andrew then writes “SPECIAL“ on his note sheet.]

AW: We have an unlimited supply of gorgeous girls. I’ve never seen so many great new faces in a season. Ever.

What do you love about casting?

AW: I mean…[he looks around]

Click through for more photos — and to read the rest of the interview, visit Lookbooks.com!

1. Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy

2. Olivier Theyskens of Theory

3. Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler

Though Jack looks super fun as he drunkenly tongues Thakoon (#10)

4. Nicolas Ghesquière of Balenciaga

5. Olivier Rousteing of Balmain

6. Joseph Altuzarra of Altuzarra

7. Thom Brown of Thom Browne/Moncler Gamme Bleu

8. Nicola Formichetti of Mugler

Nicola Formichetti, YEAH! Terry Richardson...not so much

9. Prabal Gurung (of Prabal Gurung)

10. Thakoon Panichgul of Thakoon

Humpable Hall of Fame: Tom Ford

and

Marc Jacobs

Rashida will be rated on the below categories, five being the highest and 1 being the lowest.

Fit: 5

Appropriateness: 5

Trendiness: 5

Styling: 4

Hair: 1

Makeup: 4

Shoes: 5

Pose: 3

Confidence: 4

Her outfit is so amazing, I’m sad she didn’t get an A. But that hair is positively unacceptable for anyone older than age 7.

A big emerging trend for spring is see through garments. Thakoon was right on!

Entire collection on NY Mag

3.1 Phillip Lim made with SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS, Photography Scheltens & Abbenes

Diane von Furstenberg made with SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS, Photography Scheltens & Abbenes

Lanvin by Alber Elbaz made with SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS, Photography Scheltens & Abbenes

Each of the designs will be auctioned off for charity on Monday, September 20 under the high-patronage of
Carla Bruni-Sarkozy, first lady of France. All proceeds of the auction will benefit the American Cancer Society.

Today’s top designers up to 90% off retail.

Join Gilt and gain access to today’s top fashion at insider prices. Find labels like Lauren Merkin, AG Jeans, Thakoon, Proenza Schouler, Rag & Bone and many more. Plus, shop our highly anticipated Final Sale and score style up to 90% off retail. Membership is free and you’re invited.

Join Now

NARS Cosmetics created the makeup look at the Thakoon AW2010 show. We were there to witness all the action. The inspiration for the entire collection: “I was inspired by the costumes used in this show and wanted to create a collection that reflected that same era but without the goth element,” said designer Thakoon Panichgul.

The NARS Look: “The look is fresh, beautiful, luminous and quite confident,” said lead NARS artist Diane Kendal about the look. “We focused on a strong brow and highlighted the eyes to show depth and boldness in a way that wouldn’t fight with the various textures, layers and colors of the collection.”

Click through to see the products used.

Our backstage photos here.

FACE

· Douceur Blush (NEW for Fall 2010); try Lovejoy or Madly Blush for a similar effect

EYES

· Coconut Grove Single Eyeshadow (NEW for Fall 2010); try Bali Single Eyeshadow for a similar effect

· Tzarine Duo Eyeshadow (NEW for Fall 2010); try the Orgasm Illuminator on brow bones for a similar effect

· Portobello Duo Eyeshadow

LIPS

· Tashkent Pure Matte Lipstick (NEW for Fall 2010); try Belle de Jour Velvet Matte Lip Pencil for a similar effect

Rompers always look really glamorous and reminiscent of Studio 54 with high heels or booties, which is why they’re quickly becoming one of my favorite looks for spring.

 This one by Thakoon reminds me of a Renaissance painting. It looks sheer and effortless, like you could lounge by a lake and have a tea party in it. Or, it can be absolute glamour with some studded heels and maybe a bold lip color.

I’m in love…

Buy this romper at ShopBop

Find more photos like this on ENVY

LINK LOVE: Style

1) ALEXANDER WANG

2) PHILLIP LIM

3) YOHJI YAMAMOTO

4) REI KAWAKUBO

5) THAKOON

6) DEREK LAM

7) ANNA SUI

DOO-RI CHUNG

9) JASON WU

10) VIVIENNE TAM

Michelle Obama and Carla Bruni-Sarkozy aka the ‘First Ladies of Fashion’ met today in France, at the NATO Summit Arrival Ceremony at the Palais Rohan, Michelle Obama in a Thakoon coat, and Carla Bruni in a Dior suede coat.

After the ceremony, Mrs Obama revealed a more magnificent floral print Thakoon floral silk jacquard dress.

LINKAGE: Perez Hilton

The CFDA got around to announcing their nominations yesterday. Michelle Obama is getting some love from the group (aka they need a famous face to sell some tickets). She’ll be receiving a Board of Director’s Special
Tribute, whatever that means.

Marc Jacobs will receive an International Award for his work at Louis Vuitton. Anna Sui will get the Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award.

The other nominees are:

Womenswear Designer of the Year
Marc Jacobs
Narciso Rodriguez
Laura and Kate Mulleavy/Rodarte (Really hope they win)

Menswear Designer of the Year
Michael Bastian
Scott Steinberg/Band of Outsiders
Italo Zucchelli/Calvin Klein

Accessories Designer of the Year
Vera Wang
Marc Jacobs
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez/Proenza Schouler

Swarovski Award for Womenswear (Emerging Talent)
Alexander Wang
Jason Wu (Sucking Up to Obama Much?!?)
Thakoon Panichgul (Should definitely take the win)

Swarovski Award for Menswear
Patrick Ervell
Robert Geller
Tim Hamilton

Swarovski Award for Accessories
Albertus Q. Swanepoel
Alejandro Ingelmo
Justin Giunta/Subversive Jewelry

LINKAGE: 2009 CFDA Award Nominees

“This season, we saw a return to simple, yet beautiful hair. Whether the look of the show was
soft and feminine or exhibited more of an edge, the common thread remained the hair looks -
face flattering and pretty. And the best thing about these styles is that they are easy to achieve
with the right products and tools,” says Hawkins.

Here are the trends, right off the runways, courtesy of TRESemmé:

Wave of Independence
“Gone are the days of binding curls and waves. This season, it is all about laid back, yet feminine glamour,” adds Hawkins. Rachel Roy, L’Wren Scott, Rebecca Taylor, Diane von Furstenberg and Anna Sui all sent this look down their runways. To get these hot waves:

1. Scrunch TRESemmé Flawless Curls Curl Hydration Lotion Crème into damp hair.

2. Blow dry the hair with a diffuser using the fingers or let it dry naturally.

3. Part hair evenly down the middle and finger comb each side into a ponytail.

4. Taking each ponytail, twist the lengths of the hair until it starts to twist onto itself,
creating a bun on each side of the head; secure each bun with a hair pin.

5. Using the diffuser, dry each bun and let the hair sit for 20 minutes.

6. Remove the pins and finger comb hair, creating beautiful, tousled waves.

7. Run a dime-size amount of the TRESemmé Anti-Frizz Secret Styling Crème over the
lengths of the hair to tame flyaways and add shine.

Mixed Up
“A lot of shows this season featured a dual-finish hairstyle with either a mix of shiny and matte or rough and smooth,” notes Hawkins who created such a look for Cynthia Rowley’s show.  Other designers who showcased the look included:  Alexander Wang, Erin Fetherston, Thakoon and Richard Chai.

To copy the ponytail follow these simple steps:
1. Pull hair back into a ponytail using a boar bristle brush

2. Work TRESemmé Anti-Frizz Secret Styling Crème into the hair at the top of the ponytail
but not throughout the lengths of the hair.

3. Spray the mid-shafts and ends of the hair with TRESemmé Thermal Creations Heat
Tamer Spray.

4. Blow dry hair against the natural direction of the cuticle to create a rough texture, which
will contrast the sleek, shiny top section of the head.

5. Finish this look with a touch of TRESemmé TRES Two Extra Hold Hair Spray
throughout the ponytail.

Hawkins and the TRESemmé Styling Team tied shiny black ribbon on all of the models at the Cynthia Rowley show to add a touch of glam.

Soft Around the Edges
“Stick straight locks had their moment on the runway, but the look right now is all about smooth hair with some bend and movement,” says Hawkins.  This chic style was seen on the runways of some of fashion’s biggest names including BCBG, Doo.Ri and Donna Karen.  Hawkins loved the way this styled complemented the straight lines at the Herve Leger show.

Getting the look is simple:

1. Apply TRESemmé Thermal Creations Heat Tamer Spray to hair, followed by a liberal application of TRESemmé Thermal Creations Volumizing Mousse from the roots of the hair to the ends.

2. Blow hair dry with a medium-sized round brush.

3. Spray Thermal Creations Heat Tamer Spray onto the hair again.

4. Take sections of hair twice the depth of the flatiron plate, pull the iron away from the head to create a slight curvature.

5. Add runway-worthy shine by lightly spraying the TRESemmé No Frizz Shine Spray.

For the Thakoon Fall/Winter 09 Show, lead makeup artist Diane Kendal took inspiration from the 1940′s, reflecting the surrealist images of photographer Lee Miller, and a bit of 80′s rock and roll glam, to create a strong look without being too girly.

“The look is all about the eyes with soft matte lips for contrast,” said Diane Kendal. To bring strength to the face, Diane focused on creating smoky eyes and full brows, while downplaying the lips and keeping skin fresh with a light brushing of blush for a healthy glow.

Below is a step-by-step to recreate the look provided by NARS:

Face

· Use NARSskin Hydrating Moisture Cream to moisturize entire face

· Apply NARS Concealer as needed, to cover any imperfections

· Use a minimal amount of NARS Sheer Glow Foundation (NEW for Fall 2009)

· Lightly stroke NARS Blush in Gilda on the apples of the cheeks

Eyes:

· Use NARS Eyeliner Pencil in Mambo to line upper lashes and crease

· Blend over entire lid and up to brows, keeping dense color by lashline

· With Mambo, line lower lashes and gently blend

· Use NARS Single Eyeshadow in Bali to fill in brows

· Draw a very thin line on upper lashes with NARS Eyeliner Stylo in Black (NEW for Fall 2009)

· Curl lashes with NARS Eyelash Curler

Lips:

· Apply NARS Lip Therapy Treatment in Rain to entire lip

· Lightly pat a small amount of NARS Concealer over Rain to take down color

As a representative for the Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation, Robert Verdi will bring his fashion expertise to this year’s Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation shows and events.

Now in its eighth year, the Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation is proud to recognize the seven recipients of the 2009 awards: Cushnie et Ochs, Lyn Devon, Matthew Ames, and OHNE TITEL in the women’s design category; CORPUS in the men’s design category; and Monique Péan in the accessories category. EDFF also introduces its inaugural Sustainable Design category winner, Bodkin Brooklyn.

These future stars of fashion each received a $25,000 grant to help showcase their collection at New York Fashion Week this February. Past winners include Zac Posen, Proenza Schouler, Peter Som, Derek Lam, Thakoon, Rodarte, Erin Fetherston and Alexander Wang.

Gilt Group just listed nearly all of Thakoon’s Spring 2008 collection for 80% off.  I’d skip out on Target and just buy the real goods.

LINKAGE: Thakoon at Gilt

We announced back in August that Thakoon would launch a collaboration line with Target Go! International before the ball dropped, signaling the end of 2008. Well, here is a sneak peak of the line due to hit stores this Christmas. Although you probably can’t bust them out during a mid-January snowstorm, these pieces, ranging from $20-$70, are perfect for the sunny months of spring and summer of for you lucky ones headed somewhere warm this holiday season. The Thakoon/Target collection reminds me of the prints used in Thakoon’s Fall 2008 line, only with brighter, more vibrant colors. The prints may be a bit 90′s, but layer and style the pieces correctly, and you’ll be looking bold and beautiful!

Thanks NYLON!

Diane Von Furstenberg s/s 2009.

Oscar de la Renta s/s 2009.

Thakoon s/s 2009.

As if the looming economic crisis weren’t bad enough, the monetary mayhem is now causing retailers to cut orders by at least 10%-15% for the spring. Even New York flagship stores are lowering their buys by up to 10%, hoping that tourists around the holiday season can help them bounce back. These order cuts can only mean one thing…our favorite designers spring collections will be even harder to get our hands on. Designers like Diane Von Furstenberg, Oscar de la Renta and Thakoon plan on shifting their focus to international markets. Other designers like Doo-Ri Chung plan on cutting back details to lower prices. Now, you won’t exactly go naked this spring, but if you absolutely must have these designs, I suggest you hop a plane to Milan and ransack them for all they’re worth. As for now, the availability for designer fashion come March is looking bleak. 

Thanks STYLE and NY Mag!

Thakoon Spring 09 is a hodge podge of other designers’ ideas thrown into a ditch and then regurgitated on to the runway.  The collection has elements of Marc Jacobs, Zac Posen, and Alexander Wang, yet is made to look like some sort of bondage ready garments that have inspiration from your grandma’s closet. The floral cardigans and Gap-like trench coats are the worst pieces, while the long dress that is sheer from the knee down has some potential. Better luck next time…

Thanks Style.com for the pics

Target just announced Thakoon will design its next diffusion line. The collection will launch in December and be available in Target stores and online through January.

Thanks Glamour.

David Yurman

Tom Ford

Now let’s not get off on the wrong foot. I love sunglasses, nothing better than picking out the perfect pair of shades to complete an outfit that’s going to tear up the streets; however, the amount of designers manufacturing sunglasses nowadays has been getting absolutely insane. I mean come on, I don’t even know if there is enough room for all of them! The shades keep piling in, stores are stocking up, and designers simply can’t get enough of their unstoppable “creativity”. I understand that if you see someone else with bills flying through their fingertips you’re going to want a piece of that success, but let’s think of some alternate ways keep the cash flowing in. Designers need to stop producing eyewear just for the hell of it.

Giorgio Armani

Roberto Cavalli

Thakoon and Jeremy Scott? Really? Everyone please stop allowing them to think this is okay! We’re going to get to a point where designing sunglasses is a leisure activity. Their loosing their edge, their unpredictability and ultimately, the desire they use to attract their consumers. The amount of shades are making them too accessible and completely boring. Sorry to report the newsflash designers, but not everyone’s got the skill to craft shades; please, leave it to the professionals.

Thakoon

Jeremy Scott

]]> http://fashionindie.com/a-shaded-view-of-fashion/feed/ 0 http://fashionindie.com/cfda-2008vogue-fashion-fund-contenders/ http://fashionindie.com/cfda-2008vogue-fashion-fund-contenders/#comments Wed, 16 Jul 2008 20:16:19 +0000 Rebecca Alexander http://fashionindie.com/?p=7787

Oscar de la Renta Presenting the award to Proenza Schouler

The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund has announced this year’s 10 contenders for the $200,000 award, which bestows $50,000 for each of two runners-up. Finalists include Albert Q. Swanepoel of Albertus Quartus, Alejandro Ingelmo, indie fave Alexander Wang, Irene Neuwirth, Jason Wu, Juan Carlos Obando, Swaim and Christina Hutson of Obedient Sons and Daughters, John Patrick of Organic, Richard Chai, and Lisa Mayock & Sophie  Buhai of Vena Cava, who were finalists last year as well.

Since its inception in 2003, the program has awarded over $1,000,000 to help build brands like Doo.Ri, Derek Lam, Proenza Schouler (above), Rodarte, Thakoon, Thom Browne and Trovata. The awards will be presented on November 17 at a private dinner in New York.

Really excited about this, crossing our fingers that we may get invited to the dinner…

Thakoon’s Fall 2008 collection proved once again that Thakoon Panichgul knows how to add some intrigue and mystery to a season that has been if anything but exciting.

I’m loving those sheer tights! Three words to describe this collection: crazy, sexy, cool. Fabulous combination of garments and fabrics. Thakoon is fearless when it comes to using patterns- flores, stripes, plaid.

The accessories absolutely add an extra something to theses outfits. The black leather gloves give it a punk rock look to “redefined silhouettes” of skirts and dresses. I guess opposites DO attract.

[Images Courtesy Style.com]