Wal-Mart is opening at 10 pm on Thanksgiving, but before then, the megachain will give shoppers the chance to sign up for a preview of its Black Friday catalogue. Right on its heels is Macy’s, which will open at midnight on Black Friday with hundreds of “doorbuster” sales. Sears decided to stay closed on Thanksgiving this year – “There was a sentiment from customers to keep Thanksgiving as a holiday,” (of all the concepts) according to a division vice president — but will offer scannable billboards around the country to encourage mobile shopping. Ignoring Sears and their observance of Turkey Day, Gap Inc. will open 1,000 stores this Thursday, 800 alone of which are Old Navys.

Despite the extended store hours and doorbustery promotions, the appeal of Black Friday is waning. “The ‘big day’ isn’t the ‘big day’ anymore,” David Bassuk, managing director and head of AlixPartners told WWD. “It’s been diluted with earlier and earlier hours and even Brown Thursdays. There’s still some allure to getting up early and hunting for bargains, but we’re starting to see more and more retailers who are telling the consumer, ‘Stay home and get your sleep. We’ll send you what you need so you can still get the best deal.’”

What’s more disturbing: the fact that retailers are so desperate to make Christmas dough they’ve created a Brown Thursday or the fact that they insist on calling it “Brown Thursdays?” And will you indulge in the shopping frenzy this Friday or will you be too busy fighting your way through a turkey coma? [WWD]

- Ben & Jerry’s took a trip back to the nineties when Saturday Night Live was even less relevant than it is now for their newest flavor, Schweddy Balls. [Ben & Jerry's]

- And speaking of the nineties, this week marks the 20th anniversary of Nirvana‘s groundbreaking Nevermind album, the cover of which was actually a fluke, according to photog Kirk Weddle. But to celebrate the iconic image of a chubby little baby floating naked underwater, Rock Paper Photo is giving away an 11X14 print through their Facebook page.

- Franca Sozzani struck a match then proceeded to blow Marc Jacobs‘ spot up at a celebration for Louis Vuitton re: his dealings with Dior. [NYT]

- Ricky’s bowed to the outcry against its “Anna Rexia” costume by pulling it from its shelves because apparently a skeleton over an LBD with a tape measure as a belt is NOT hilarious. It’s always a sad day when a cheap eating disorder joke goes down the drain. Along with my lunch. [Jezebel]

- Don’t worry, kids, Wal-Mart isn’t going to ruin New York. That happened about 10 years ago when New York banned smoking in bars. [Racked]

- Marlon Texeira takes his clothes off for breast cancer. Problem solved. [Image Amplified]

Appealing to the masses, Skinnygirl Face and Body Solutions will ship to select Wal-Mart stores in November just in time for the holiday season with a full rollout on December 26.

The Skinnygirl beauty line will feature about 30 products divided into four categories — lip treatments, face, body and gifts —  including lip gloss, face masks, a body shimmer and…a cooling foot spray.

That sounds nice, I guess…and a little gross. Anyhoo, everyone can get their hands on Bethenny as all products will retail for – or – below $15.

Meanwhile, archrival/ex-BFF Jill Zarin is developing her own line of shapewear called Skweez Couture. Frankel’s already got a shapewear and lingerie line called Smoothers n’ Shapers — who the hell does the branding for these people, Fran Fine? — so let the Spanx-off begin! [WWD]

- Halston is apparently falling apart at the seams. First SJP, then Harvey Weisntein, now Marios Schwab is the latest to jump the label’s quickly sinking ship and there’s no Spring 2012 collection planned. [WWD]

- Beyoncé dropped a measly $15K on a 90-minute shopping spree with mom Tina Knowles at Topshop and Selfridges. Meanwhile, let me loose in a Wal-Mart for 90 minutes and I could rack up the same bill.  [NY Mag]

“Remote sellers,” i.e. Internet-only retailers and catalogue companies are at the center of the controversy. Traditional brick-and-mortar businesses, meanwhile, are typically required to add sales tax in whatever states they have stores. But states — seeking additional revenue to balance their budgets — are  pushing legislation to require e-tailers to collect sales taxes where they have a physical presence like a warehouse, call center or their headquarters.

And it’s no wonder considering the findings of a 2009 University of Tennessee study, which estimates that state and local governments could miss out on as much as $11.4 billion to $12.65 billion in sales taxes uncollected from e-commerce sales next year.

Even retailers with a strong online presence such as Wal-Mart hope to level the playing field by imposing taxes on online-only businesses. Because of their tax loophole, e-tailers can often run bigger sales, a practice that, according to a senior official at a specialty chain, “is killing other businesses.”

However, passing this type of legislation is easier said than done.

“Interstate commerce is generally legislated by the federal government,” says Paul Hurley, CEO of Ideeli, “and the right place to legislate this issue is at the federal level and even there, it’s going to be complicated.”

Hurley’s sentiments are echoed by Overstock CEO Patrick M. Byrne in a statement published on Overstock’s website:

“It is unconstitutional for a state to pass a law making out-of-state retailers collect sales tax simply for having business relations with marketing affiliates in those states.”

But Congress has already set those wheels into motion. The Durbin bill is an initiative by Assistant U.S. Senate Majority Leader Dick Durbin (D., Ill.) that would require all retailers to collect sales taxes in the 45 states, including the District of Columbia, where they exist.

Hurley argues that these taxes could “stifle businesses that depend on technology and the Internet,” even though e-commerce growth shows no signs of slowing.  E-commerce now accounts for 9 percent of retail spending, in comparison to 0.47 percent in 1998 and a projected 11.1 percent in 2015.

With online sales projected at $197.3 billion this year and $217.5 billion next year, this issue will only continue to gain more traction. So the only option as I see it is to go on a massive shopping spree, hoard up on everything in anticipation of retail Armageddon and then unload it via your own e-commerce site for a tidy little profit. Capitalism at its finest. [WWD]

Famous for its diffusion lines with Proenza Schouler, Zac Posen and most recently Missoni, Target gained considerable clout with the fashion set. However, clothing and home goods sales — which are more profitable and make up more than 40% of annual sales –  are sluggish.

And why is that? Poor people, of course.

When Target started adding more groceries and introduced a 5% discount to all customers who used their credit and debit cards, they attracted “more medium- and low-income shoppers at the expense of the higher-end shopper.”

Because who wants to pick up their Rodarte for Target discount couture next to a mom with a cart full of diapers and screaming kids? No one, that’s who.

So with other department stores picking up on their high-end designer collabo brilliance,  Target is quickly and unfortunately approaching Wal-Mart levels of cool. [WSJ]

- And in other celebrity vanity fragrance news, fembot Britney Spears is being sued by Brand Sense for allegedly cutting them out on a deal with Elizabeth Arden over Brit’s Radiance perfume. Brand Sense is seeking $10 million and I’m seeking “internet star” turned “TV star” Chris Crocker to scream through smeared eye-liner to leave that fembot alone! She’s got a tour to sleepwalk through, for Gaga‘s sake! [Radar]

- I used to think the Great Recession would never end. Then I lost interest when something shiny flew in front of my face and months later people were still on the fence about it. Well, no more! LVMH, the world’s larges luxury group, has reported some record-breaking sales and earnings for 2010. Champagne showers and gold coin baths for everyone! [WWD]

- Among other things LVMH reported, Dior is in no rush to replace John Galliano. The house, according to Bernard Arnault, the CEO of LVMH, Dior will see a number of candidates then weigh its options. In the meantime, Dior’s design studios will soldier on sans a creative director to meet the Fashion Week deadline. Riccardo Tisci must be getting the fashion equivalent of blue balls…cerulean bugle beads…?  [WWD]

While Haute Couture is highly celebrated on the red carpet, many fashion insiders seem confused over the true concept of the term.

In order to best understand, I like to refer to the designer pyramid, where haute couture is positioned above all else. While haute couture designs that are featured on the runway, may sometimes resemble artwork more than wearable fashions, they are in fact the inspiration for almost every piece of clothing you will ever purchase. When these collections are created, they set the standards for what will filter down to designers such as Prada, Dolce & Gabanna, Marc Jacobs and Diane Von Furstenberg, who then create prêt-a-porter (ready-to-wear) collections. Many designers have couture departments; an example would be Atelier Versace. An extension of Versace, the atelier (tailoring workshop) creates many of the long evening gowns and one-of-a-kind designs that are made to order to fit an individual’s body like a second skin. One step down from designers who have runway collections, are retailers such as Zara, Mango, Karen Millen, Reiss and Bebe. These stores have a higher turnover of clothing production and their designs are often copied from the ready–to-wear runway shows. Eventually, all of this is filtered down to companies such as Primark, Kmart and Wal-Mart, who mass-produce clothing that consumers can purchase for the fraction of the cost of the original design.

The origin of couture dates back to mid-nineteenth century Paris, when Empress Eugénie elicited the dressmaking services of Charles Frederick Worth, an English designer who was known for his luxurious choice of fabrics, sumptuous trimmings and attention to detail. Her refined tastes set the style of the court and won Worth the title of Europe’s very first Couturier. Before long, Worth was patronized by many titled, rich and notable women. Being a savvy businessman, he took advantage of the growing demand for his work by opening a showroom, La Maison de Couture in Paris. Interested buyers would come to view his latest pieces on live models and order their garment of choice. Worth would then recreate the chosen garment in his atelier, modifying it to the client’s taste and precise measurements. This business model provided the foundation for modern day couture.

Worth has not only been credited for being the inventor of couture, but also for inventing the modern day press kit. Before the photographic era, he was the first to promote his work by sending out miniature dolls wearing his designs, which journalists then reproduced as illustrations, thus creating the original fashion editorials.

Haute couture, when translated, simply means high dressmaking, but is the most celebrated fashion honor. In France, the term is protected by law and defined by the Chambre de Commerce et d’Industrie de Paris. There are currently only eleven official members and three correspondent (foreign) members of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, all of whom have been invited for membership and must follow certain rules in order to use the term in their advertising.  Within this set of rules, each house is expected to operate a Paris-based atelier and show two full (thirty five pieces) collections, twice a year. These shows, which make up Paris Couture Week, are held during January and July and are not to be confused with the regular ‘fashion week’ which showcase the ready-to-wear collections.

Kirten Lea at Armani Privé – Video Direction by Durrant Kellogg

Armani Privé, Valentino and Chanel are among the names currently boasting the most prestigious empires. Many see the stunning dresses featured on the red carpet, but are unsure as to how one would go about purchasing one. I recall seeing what would be my first haute couture gown, worn by Katie Holmes at her wedding reception. Even on the dimensionless page of a magazine, the dress spoke to me, implanting what would become a deep passion and lasting appetite for couture. It was only in my quest to purchase a gown of my own, did I learn that the ceremonious process by which one procures a couture dress proves as intricate, as the design itself.

Most designer stores, such as Giorgio Armani, are not closely connected to their couture house, and therefore it is mandatory for a new client to have a formal introduction to the atelier.  This will usually require a new client to fly to Rome, Paris or Milan simply to view the look book. If one is interested in a particular gown, then that dress must also be flown in from wherever it is in the world, at that particular time.

Originally made for runway models, each sample garment is a prototype made specifically for runway models. This means they are made for women who are at least 5’10” tall, extremely slim, with almost no bust and a long back. The sample garments are later fashioned with elastic rigging, so to accommodate clients with more curves than zero.

It is at the atelier, where one discusses any modifications, to ensure that a dress will suit the client perfectly. The couturiers have great wisdom regarding which colors, necklines, hemlines and silhouettes enhance each individual body size and shape. And, when you’re buying a dress that costs in the region of $160,000, it doesn’t hurt to seek professional consultation. Ordering couture is about teamwork and creativity, a process in which the customer is a vital part.

Haute Couture garments often require three or four fittings. While it is helpful if the client remains the same size, the very nature of a fitting is to continually adjust the garment to fit one’s body like a second skin, so it is expected that women may lose or gain a little weight, particularly if they are leading up to an important event. By the end of the fittings, no matter how revealing a dress may appear to be, you will feel completely comfortable and secure wearing it.

Usually more so than any other dress you have ever worn.

With an estimated 2,000 people worldwide who still purchase haute couture, but as few as 150 individuals who are regarded as regular clientele, designers go to great lengths to build a sense of loyalty amongst their clients. Giorgio Armani, for example, hosted intimate dinners during which clients are brought together to share their passion for, knowledge of, and experiences with couture. The attendees are not the spoiled individuals some might expect. We share our thoughts on the latest collections and what we believe inspired them. We discuss plans to attend upcoming shows and most importantly, we rely upon each other to compare experiences of buying from one designer over another.

The 2011 Official List of Members of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture

Adeline André

Anne Valérie Hash

Atelier Gustavolins

Chanel

Christian Dior

Christophe Josse

Franck Sorbier

Givenchy

Jean-Paul Gautier

Maurizio Galante

Stéphane Rolland

Correspondent (Foreign) Members

Elie Saab

Giorgio Armani

Valentino

Maison Martin Margiela

Invited Members

Alexandre Vauthier

Alexis Mabille

Bouchra Jarrar

Julien Fournié

Lefrant Ferrant

Maison Rabih Kayrouz

Maxime Simoëns

Watch Video Here

Ready for the foolproof DIY instructions? Good.

Step One: Go to Wal-Mart

Step Two: Buy sweatpants and paint

Step Three: Wear and wash the hell out of the sweatpants

Step Four: Splatter paint on the inside of the sweatpants

Step Five: Allow drying time

Step Six: Wear.

What some people try to make money off of these days…

There are things worse than wearing last seasons Herve Ledger. It’s called People of Walmart. This is their style blog.

LINK LOVE: BUZZFEED

If someone told me that BCBG designer, Max Azria, somehow survived thousands of blows to the head, I wouldn’t be terribly surprised. Anyone who decides to collaborate with Miley Cyrus is one of two things: Money hungry to the point that they will siphon celebrity status from a 16-year-old to make a Wal-Mart collaboration, slightly nicer than toilet paper -OR- mentally deranged. I’ll take the latter. 

Just in time for back-to-school, Azria’s and Cyrus’ collection will hit the Wal-Mart shelves, tantalizing tweens and causing their parents to waste more money on Cyrus paraphernalia. The majority of the collection, consisting of tops, pants, graphic tees and shoes, will sell for about $20 or less…is this really something you’d want your name tied to?

Wasn’t Cyrus’ peak last year? I feel like kids are more interested in The Jonas Brothers than that “she’s so yesterday” Hannah Montana. Maybe it’s just me, but I won’t be surprised if many pieces from this collection sat on the shelves. 

Thanks Pop Crunch! 

So far Black Friday has claimed at least two lives, and you wonder why I stay at home! For more check out Buzzfeed

Thanks Flickr for the pic.

I would rather walk the snow and ice covered streets of New York barefoot then wear either of these awful boots. Honestly, I don’t care if I get frost bite and have to get my feet amputated, you will never catch me in primary color moon boots (even if they are Pucci…I’m no label whore) or velcro “running boots.” The last time I saw those was at Wal-Mart in 1995. If you’re a native New Yorker, suck it up, throw on the wool socks and actually wear fashionable boots. If you’re not a native and you just happen to be working some rinky-dink Wall St. job, quit missing your flip-flops and do the same. 

Thanks for the photos NYLON!

Okay, Okay, so I should probably stop this rumor before it goes any further, but Lauren Conrad’s collection, as showed during Los Angeles Fashion Week, was probably only Walmart worthy. Actually, I think I’ve seen more fashionable things at Walmart than what this sorry excuse for a fashion designer threw on the runway last week. Craftsmanship was shoddy. Designs were boring. Collared and belted dresses went out of style before they were even in style. I guess the only compliment I can give the poor girl is that they styling was decent. Please Lauren Conrad, give it up already. Please. 

Thanks Jezebel!