Tips & Advice

Louis Vuitton Doesn’t Hate Darfur, Just Copyright Infringement

Pretty darn similar.Photo: Nadiaplesner.com, Courtesy of Louis Vuitton

The Louis Vuitton vs. Nadia Plesner battle is heating up, with the Danish art student questioning what can be considered art and the house of Marc trying to not seem like the bad guys while protecting their copyrights.

New York Magazine offered and insightful look at the lawsuit and how Louis was only taking the most logical step after dealing with an artist that refused to cease and desist. It’s one for the textbooks and will most likely  prevent other artists from messing with the Vuitton’s of the world any time soon. The full story below…

Earlier this week we ran a Q&A with Nadia Plesner, the Danish art student embroiled in a copyright lawsuit with Louis Vuitton. She created an image depicting a Darfurian child holding a bag based on a Louis Vuitton design for a campaign to raise awareness of the ongoing genocide in Darfur. Her message is that we care more about items like the Vuitton purse and the celebrities that carry them than serious issues like Darfur. Today a spokeswoman from Louis Vuitton rang us up to offer their side of the story.

She said the fashion house initially did not ask for damages when it noticed the colors and design of the bag in Plesner’s painting appeared to be an exact copy of the Audra bag pictured above. They sent Plesner a letter asking her to respect the rights of other artists like Louis Vuitton creative director Marc Jacobs and artist Takashi Murakami, who designed the bag. Plesner didn’t respond to the letter but continued her campaign and posted the letter on her Website. The spokeswoman also noted when Plesner started the campaign, she was donating 30 percent of the profits from the sale of T-shirts and posters with the image (now her Website says she’s donating 100 percent of the profits).

Since Plesner didn’t respond to Louis Vuitton, the house went to court in Paris to file an injunction. On March 25 the court declared the image was a clear infringement of Louis Vuitton’s copyright on the bag and ordered Plesner to cease and desist. When Plesner ignored this injunction, Louis Vuitton took further action and asked for 5,000 euros for each day she continued to sell the product (just under $7,700; some erroneous reports say $20,000 a day). “If companies don’t take action to protect trademarks, it’s harder to do so in the future,” the spokeswoman said. “I just think the way she’s portraying this she’s not telling what Louis Vuitton did to prevent the lawsuit.”

She added Louis Vuitton is not trying to stop Plesner’s campaign and hopes to find a solution to allow it to continue without infringing on Louis Vuitton’s intellectual-property rights.

Popularity: 1% [?]

Fashion 101: Should Designers Reflect Their Collections?

This Man…

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 designed this…

Riccardo Tisci was brought onto Givenchy in 2005 and given the position as Chief Designer of womens ready-to-wear and haute couture. Following the footsteps of great designers before him, John Galliano and Alexander McQueen, Tisci was appointed to make the brand once favored by the Kennedy’s and Audrey Hepburn translatable to today’s customer.

Of course, in all this hubbub it seems the brand forgot to give Riccardo a wardrobe. With 10 day old scruff and a tee shirt better befitting a high school student, the 33 year old designer looks like an amateur in the game of fashion, forgetting one of the dead set rules of those dedicated to their craft, always represent your collection.

Many designers out there forget this simple, yet appropriate direction. They create amazing $1000 dresses but sport $15 tees and baggy, sloppy jeans.  I can image the rest of Riccardo’s outfit in the picture above; faded, ripped jeans, Converse, a skateboard and a dubbie in his back pocket. While refusing to fit a mold is an admirable pursuit, being so opposite to your brands image may in fact alienate you from your target customer. If you were introduced to Riccardo in his laid back get up your first impression would be “amateur”.  The gut reaction he would receive is that of someone who doesn’t take is work seriously and thus is not displaying his full potential on the runway.

 

For young designers, it is especially important to translate your collection onto your everyday wear.  Thom Browne is the perfect example of someone dedicated to his craft. While he may be the only man on the planet who wears Thom Browne suits, you know the reason isn’t cause he’s not actively promoting his wears. Thom rocks his high water crafted suits on the street, to events, and has even been seen rocking jackets with “I’m Thom Browne” embroidered on his back. Dedication.

So next time you’re heading out be sure to rock a piece from your collection or at least dress in something that reflects your brand. If you a tee shirt designer, rock tee shirts. But if you’re a high-end couture designer in charge of one of the largest fashion brands in the world, try not to pull a Riccardo and look like a complete burnout.

(photos courtesy of WWD, Style.com)

Popularity: 1% [?]

Behind the Scenes of a Henri Bendel Trunk Show

Myland and Joal

Hey indies,

I’m going to give you the scoop on what goes on at a designer trunk show at Henri Bendel so that next year when they are looking for new talent you’re ready to make it past their judges on on to their selling floor.

Twice a year designers line up around the block to show their creations to the buyers at this high-end department store. If you have something that sparks their interest they let you show in their store. If all goes well from there you can keep showing on a regular basis. Hopefully one day you can prove yourself worthy and they will just be able to buy your line.

Above is my little headband line. I would like to introduce all you Fashion Indie connoisseurs to the other talent that was sharing the spotlight with me this weekend. Should you get picked it is a very good idea to bring help along. My publicist Mylan Bui and Jowita Kurowski helped me, bringing over a good three bags full of head candy goodies!!! Bui-Lavry PR Rocks!!!

bakerycup cake

In the front of the store there is currently a designer cupcake maker/celebrity birthday cake baker showing. I promised not to tell who they are designing a birthday cake for next week. If I leaked this bit of information their Lower East Side bakery would be paparazzi mayhem!!! Let’s just say John Mayer was the last rock star they designed for. Strictly A-list.

Check out their work www.howsweetitispastry.com!!!

mindy lam

Indie Jewelry designer Mindy Lam was in Henri’s on Sunday but has been showing near the entrance all week long. Her jewelry is nothing less than a work of genius. I say it like this because all her jewelry is couture and can only be produced by her personally, her designs are a hand-crafted skill that can not be taught. She is beyond indie, Mindy’s gems are in a whole other category of independent design.

confuzzled

One of my most favorite designer’s was a Chocolatier named Confuzzled , these intense chocolate toffee cookies are making an appearance on the View this Tuesday (Be sure to notice her pretty little girl who will be wearing an Angel Lust bow). Confuzzled is proof that The Daily Candy is God!!! Confuzzled started out doing monthly trunk shows at Henri Bendel, during which an article in The Daily Candy featured her. Eventually Bendel’s bought her stuff in bulk and placed it permanently in their high-end chocolate bar in the penthouse!!!

So here are three quick tips for making it on the Henri Bendel buyers short list.

  1. Get to the Henri Bendel casting calls early.
  2. Have professional help from a PR agency.
  3. Get mentioned in Daily Candy or any other noted press and be sure that your first collection sells out, quickly. Call friends, put in favors, do whatever you have to do, just make sure that when you hit the selling floor of Bendel’s you’re selling.

The list goes on with all the fantastic talent you will find here. I look forward to bringing you updated indies in progress.

-Kristen May of Angel Lust !!!

Popularity: 2% [?]

Fashion Controversy: Is It Still Fashion Design If You Use a Butterick Pattern?

A few weeks ago we posted a story on a St. Louis designer, AFV by Ashley Dayley, who was set to showcase her looks with 5 other designers at an event at the contemporary art museum.  Well, according to an outraged reader of Fashion Indie, the designer is a “ripoff” for using a Butterick pattern (specifically number 6015)  to create her dresses.   We have the Teresa H’s comment below…

Many of us in the online design/sewing community were flummoxed, and some rather outraged, when a very popular reissued pattern (Butterick 6015) showed up on the runway - credited to Ashley Dayley as an original design but was a complete ripoff (and copyright infringement) of this pattern and its original designer.

It’s astonishing the lack of integrity, and utter cluelessness that this designer showed in presenting this as her own “design”.

“Dayley called it vintage sexy.” the St. Louis Times wrote. We call it “ripoff.”

Now we’ve done some research (shockingly we do try some actual reporting sometime) and we found the original Butterick pattern that one of our readers referenced.

Unfortunately, we don’t have any photos of AFV by Ashley Dayley to prove our reader correct, but we’re working on it.

Aside from that, is it really cheating when a designer uses a pattern from a company like Butterick? Isn’t the whole “Vintage Revival” movement all about using these patterns with new fabrics to make them modern?  I personally don’t see anything wrong with a designer using a Butterick pattern since these we’re sold for the purpose of creating clothes.  Yes some one else designed the pattern, but you designed the dress by picking the fabrics and crafting the dress, right?

Fortunately another Fashion Indie reader agrees with me. Read her comment below in response to Teresa H…

Someone here must be the Rainman of fashion…or a chronically bored person with too much time on their hands. Ashley, and other designers world wide have used shapes as well as patterns to design or create a newer, fresher version of a garment. If this blogger comment was given by a professional whom is a judge or editor-in-chief of Vogue magazine…I can understand to some degree. But why were THEY not featured at fashion week? Why were they never sought after for their amazing original clothing line? Hmmmm sounds to me like they are what I like to call being their “internet” self. How dare to comment about this young designer to ruin her good name. I thought her clothes were fresh, fun and frankly….better than a Butterick pattern.

Touche.

Popularity: 4% [?]

Lining Up at Henri Bendel’s

 

purpleSo twice a year NYC’s famous Henri Bendel’s holds a search for new indie designers looking for an in to the industry. Designers will start to line up outside starting at 2am in the morning. I was not going to get up that early, however I did get there at 7:30am and at that time was still 2 city blocks away from the entrance. While about a thousand people continued to add on with every hour or so.My time paid off thanks to the hands of the fashion gods and my brilliant reps at Bui-Lavry PR who helped me display and sell my treasured head pieces. Bendel’s is giving me a time slot to host my own Angel Lust trunk show near the end of April, which will coincide with the debut of my items on “Gossip Girl” !!!I’m going to write more about the event on my personal blog along with some very helpful tips for all future designers who want to stand in line. Visit me http://angellustpr.blogspot.com/-Kristen May Anastasia

Popularity: 1% [?]

12 Best Indie Fashion Magazines

 

Fashion magazines are a dime a dozen. There are the big names like Elle, Vogue, Nylon, Harpers Bazaar, and gasp* Us Weekly. Their are the better known high end fares like V Magazine, Another Magazine, Purple and Paper. But hidden amongst the big boys are a slew of indie fashion magazines that don’t get as much attention as they deserve. Check out this list of indie fashion magazines that you should know compiled by Glam.com …

10 mag

 

10
Christened 10—a bold, simple number that is recognizable in any language—the book has attracted a large international following. The 300+page publication is chock full of contemporary culture of every sort and for those who can’t be bothered to read the staff’s well-written pieces, it serves as a spell binding picture book that’s hard to put down.

 

 

 

a4 mag

A4
A recent winner of the Chimera Press Design Award , A4 cleverly connects street culture, high art, and fashion in a series of collage-like pictorials. The Polish book aims to promote young artists in all fields, and promote they do: Crisp and clear without being cold, their well-designed pages are highly memorable. (Bonus: Their online site isn’t too shabby either.

 

bon mag

BON MAGAZINE

 

With so much high-quality fashion pouring out of Sweden (hello Cheap Monday, H&M, Acne, and Filippa K) that it’s no surprise that the country has cornered the market on Scandinavian-influenced mags. The country’s leading fashion magazine, Bon, takes the cake with it’s visually and verbally dense pages. The tome and it’s online component offer up sophisticated coverage from all the international weeks, but hones in on—and rightfully so—their homegrown talent.

 

tank mag

TANK

 

Launched in 1998 by the eponymous creative agency, the “bookzine” focuses on architecture, fashion, and overall great design. Expect quirky spins on boldfaced names—from Miuccia Prada to David Sims and Dior— up-and-coming stars in fashion, art, graphic design, and other visual fields. The multi-talented minds behind Tank also produce a radio station, publishing house, and online TV segments.

 

numero mag

NUMERO

 

French-based Numero allows all you impatient trend hounds to get a sneak peak at the fashions of tomorrow. (Modelizers will appreciate the editorial team’s ahead-of-the curve front-cover placement of young catwalkers.) The magazine, which has earned accolades for its arresting photographs and influential design, serves as a must-read for the W magazine subscribers who prefer their style news served up with some edge.

 

plastique mag

PLASTIQUE

 

The recently launched Plastique offers a behind-the-scenes look at the photoshoot lifestyle. While stories touch on contemporary cinema and art, the real reason to pick up the book is its many thoughtful interviews with designers, photographers, illustrators and more.

 

amgaa

A Magazine

 

Curated by a rotating roster of intellectual designers (including Yohji Yamamoto, Martine Sitbon, and Martin Margiela) A Magazine delves into the inspirations, craftsmanship ideals, and external influences that are crucial to the design process. the insightful presentation of such oft-over-looked stories will prove to be rewarding to those who are interested in what goes on behind the atelier’s gilded doors.

 

lula mag

LULA MAGAZINE
London-based Lula taps into the fairytale trend that’s prevailed in certain fashion and art circles as of late. Helmed by former Vogue UKer, Leith Clarke, it’s plum full of romantic, ethereal photos, cameos by bewitching girls—such as Zooey Deschanel, Erin Fetherston, and Karen Elson—and nostalgic stories of timeworn treasures including Anne of Green Gables books, heart lockets, and more. Not only does each issue spin a well-crafted yarn, but Lula’s online flipbook is just as enchanting.

 

wonderland mag

WONDERLAND

 

If the Steven Sprouse-like logo doesn’t tip you off about Wonderland’s energetic coverage of the film, fashion, and art worlds, you’ll figure it out once you flip open the first page. Created by young Londoner, (A Visionaire alum and former Mario Testino assistant) Huw Gwyther, the book looks at with the unabashed, rocking enthusiasm of undergrads at St. Martins (of which Gwyther is an alumni, duh).

 


 

fly mag

FLY MAGAZINE

 

By offering short fashion films (in lieu of photoshoots) via web and limited-edition DVDs only, the Paris-and New York based magazine is quietly redefining the medium. Recent trendsetting contributors include Shirin Neshat, Julia Restoin Toirfeld, Missy Rayder, and Debbie Harry. If it sounds impressive, that’s because it is.

 

More that missed the list.

 

indie fashion magazine

INDIE MAGAZINE

I’m in love with INDIE magazine, but apparently they don’t love me. This magazine used to be available in the states at select newstands, but disappeared recently. You can still pick up the amazingly detailed and spot on tome to independent fashion in Austria or order the magazine online.

 

METROPOP

A completely addictive magazine that features the best indie fashions from local and LA designers, Metropop has remained a strong voice in the indie fashion scene with it’s fashion spreads which feature young fashion designers. Recent cover girl Amanda Lepore and models such as Andre J and Jerry Tam of Form make the pages of this mag golden.

Think we missed some? Do share

Popularity: 4% [?]

Ten Best Websites for Fashion Designers

Young designers trying to make a name for themselves out there have got it rough. Aside from all the competition from the big names you need to differentiate yourself from the thousands of other designers trying to make it big in this make-or-break world of high couture and low-end knock-offs.

In order to help you make it as a fashion designer and give you a leg up on some of your competition, I’ve compiled a list of the ten best websites for emerging fashion designers. These sites will provide you insight on becoming a fashion designer, learning your competition and getting some much needed publicity when you need it. Enjoy

 

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Look at all the helpful goodness on our top bar. Tell your friends!!!

1. FashionIndie.com

FashionIndie.com is not on the top of the list cause I run it, it’s on here cause we’ve built this site to be a resource for young designers looking for a little publicity and tips. We regularly feature emerging fashion designers, we always promote the events and shows of young designers, and best of all WE CAN BE BOUGHT. We have a program called Fast Track which puts you’re story, event, or sale ahead of all the other tips we get thrown at us. What this means is that within 24 hours your brand can be in front of thousands of our readers and circulating through dozens of our site feeds which distribute our content.

In addition, we regularly develop events specifically for our network of over 5000 emerging fashion designers. Events have included fashion shows, charity auctions, design competitions, grants for fashion designers, networking events, and fashion weeks all devoted to young fashion designers. To find out more about these events be sure to register with us.

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Style Maps keep customers connected to their favorite designers.

2. Trendible.com

More than just a pretty looking social network for the stylishly inclined, Trendible.com gives emerging designers the type of tools they can only pray for (or pay for since Trendible is free and everything else isn’t). When a designer joins Trendible.com they can post pictures and video of their collections, connect to their customers and send customers updates on sales & events, new collections, and information on the stores that carry them. Designers can judge their popularity based on those their connected to figure out what other designers and stores their customers love, giving them the type of information they need to determine their demographics, psychograpics, buyer behavior and geographic location. It’s a big information pot for designers looking to build a brand.

3. Etsy.com

If you’re a jewelery designer or addicted to DIY then Etsy is should be your home. Easy to use and quick to master, Etsy allows you to sell you’re goodies to a large audience of craft addicts. If you’re stuff is a little less “earthy” there’s no reason to turn down the site. At the end of the day, the traffic you drag to your store will result in sales. Etsy’s platform and interface makes it the perfect choice for a designer looking for a quick, clean web store.

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MySpace.com’s dedicated spot for fashion

4. MySpace.com

Yes the independently run Facebook is better, cleaner and, pretty soon, more popular, but MySpace’s customizations will allow you to build a web presence on the cheap without needing to know too much about coding. Make your profile an extension of your brand with your colors, text and images. Adding photo albums of collections and videos of your shows are always a great idea, but be sure to keep it professional. Too many graphics and blasting music and crazy images will only distract from your collection, making it difficult for a buyer or magazine editor to care about your work. Also, be sure to watch your top friends and comments. No need for the wrong message to come across to your customers. When you’re finished building your profile be sure to connect to Fashion Indie (myspace.com/fashionindie)

5. BigCartel.com

The ideal site for designers who are focussed on t-shirts, Big Cartel is a quick solution that lets you sell quickly and promote easily. Customized URL’s help you connect to your store from any where on the web and check out couldn’t be easier. If tee’s are your thing, be sure to check out this site.

6. TheFashionSpot.com

A private network of fashion enthusiasts, The Fashion Spot has quickly grown to becoming a monster of a site filled with the type of user interactions designers creme for. Users can talk about their favorite designers and discuss all aspects of fashion. If you get an invite treasure it and use it to fill the space with the type of carefully planted information only membership access can grant you.

7. Google.com

Google isn’t the first place you think of when you’re a young designer, but the type of information you can extract for the site is extremely valuable. Here are some quick tips for using the site.

Search : site:www.yourwebsitehere.com to find out how many pages of your website Google is paying attention to.

Search : link:www.yourwebsitehere.com to find out how many other websites are connecting to you website.

Search : “your label name here” to see how many pages contain your name. You never know, you might be on some blog or may have missed a press clipping.

You can also sign on to get weekly and daily updates for those days when Google spots your name or website on the web. Just sign-up for Google Alerts to find out about these helpful reminders

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Everyone’s on the Tube, even Ford Models.

8. Youtube.com

There’s no denying the power of the Tube. Upload your runway videos, introduce yourself to the world, show people behind the scenes, whatever you want to show, show. Share your world and don’t be surprised if it starts answering. Video is the best way to show who you are and for your designs to move. It’s one step closer to bringing your customers closer to your collection. Get on their and make yourself a star.

9. Facebook.com

Told you I’d mention Facebook. Perfect for connecting you to the people who can make your collection grow, Facebook is great cause many of the companies you’d want to connect to like Conde Nast and Hearst are already on there. As an added bonus, the extra plug-ins that the site provides can let you sell your collection and share it with the hole Facebook audience making you a Facebook superstar in no time.

10. Fashion-Incubator.com

Completely dedicated to the craft of fashion manufacturing, this site is perfect for the designer looking to grow. The blog plays more like a book with chapters dedicated to various subjects on the manufacturing process. The writing is entertaining and worth taking a look at if you’re at the point of your career where you want to increase production. We can’t all design out of basements forever.

Hope this list if helpful indies. Be sure to comment with more suggestions if you have them.

Popularity: 14% [?]

Golden Oldies

Looking for all the classic indie goodness you’ve come to love.

CLICK HERE to be taken to our old site and view some classic posts.

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