Erin Wasson on Making the Switch from Model to Designer

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  Model-cum-designer Erin Wasson’s fall 2010 RVCA show, which involved “magic” carpet rides and a (pant-less) appearance by Ke$ha , was one of the highlights of our New York Fashion Week. But was Wasson daunted about making the career change?

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Soar | 2010 Fall/Winter Collection

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Soar | 2010 Fall/Winter Collection Soar | 2010 Fall/Winter Collection Soar | 2010 Fall/Winter Collection Soar | 2010 Fall/Winter Collection Soar | 2010 Fall/Winter Collection Soar | 2010 Fall/Winter Collection Soar | 2010 Fall/Winter Collection Soar | 2010 Fall/Winter Collection Soar | 2010 Fall/Winter Collection Soar | 2010 Fall/Winter Collection Soar | 2010 Fall/Winter Collection Soar | 2010 Fall/Winter Collection Soar | 2010 Fall/Winter Collection Soar | 2010 Fall/Winter Collection Soar | 2010 Fall/Winter Collection

British designer and DJ, Tim Soar presented his  Fall/Winter 2010 collection at London Fashion week and we love it. The most prominent thing I see in this collection is that he uses a lot of crew neck collars which gives a more casual look. Cropped and boxy silhouettes are layered with longer tops which has been a trend lately.

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RUNWAY: D&G Fall/Winter 2010

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RUNWAY: D&G Fall/Winter 2010

RUNWAY: D&G Fall/Winter 2010

RUNWAY: D&G Fall/Winter 2010

Perfect for an Aspen snow bunny, this is def my favorite collection from what I’ve seen this season. I love the pairing of silk shorts with cable knit, the fur shorts are to die for, and I’m not even going to mention the fair Isle onsies (oops I just did). Perfect in every way possible, Dominico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana are genius!

Gallery here.

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Coutorture: Milan Fashion Week: Fendi Fall 2010 http://www.coutorture.com/7539071

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Mark Fast A/W 2010 Runway

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Mark Fast A/W 2010 Runway Mark Fast A/W 2010 Runway

Mark Fast’s show was a highly anticipated event for aw10! The crowd outside the topshop show space to see Fast and Mary Katrantzou’s joint show was unbelievable, and the capacity inside was at an all time high! Having caused a stir at spring/summer 10 collection by using plus-size models on the catwalk the eyes were on this central saint martin’s graduate as to whether it was all just a pretense. Read More about Mark Fast A/W 2010 Runway (190 words) © C* for Trend.Land -> Fashion Blog & Trend Magazine , 2010. | Permalink | No comment | Add to del.icio.us Post tags: AW10 , knitwear , london fashion week , mark fast

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RUNWAY: Mark Fast Fall/Winter 2010

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RUNWAY: Mark Fast Fall/Winter 2010

RUNWAY: Mark Fast Fall/Winter 2010

RUNWAY: Mark Fast Fall/Winter 2010

RUNWAY: Mark Fast Fall/Winter 2010A very anticipated show because of last season’s controversy, surrounding Mark’s use of plus size models on the runway, and after reviewing the above images I can honestly say that I am not impressed with this collection. Some of the pieces are great, some are very similar to last seasons, and some are just disappointing. I do love his use of color, but we’ve seen the matching tights in the past, and the hair and makeup were, in my opinion, very lacking. What do you guys think?

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SNAPSHOT: Abbey Lee Kershaw Walks Diesel Black Gold Fall 2010

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SNAPSHOT: Abbey Lee Kershaw Walks Diesel Black Gold Fall 2010

Diesel loves boobs and Abbey Lee Kershaw has boobs, making this the perfect combo!

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RUNWAY: Isaac Mizrahi Fall 2010

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RUNWAY: Isaac Mizrahi Fall 2010

Photos: Jemal Countess, Getty Images (3)

DESIGNER: Isaac Mizrahi

INSPIRATION: Isaac’s so-called, “Central Park Story Book,” was a supernatural society fairy tale inspired by New York city–with Cinderella glass slippers, “The Met Museum Japanese Armor Show” samurais, “Irving Penn Station” bag ladies, and “Avedon meets Avatar” fairies.

TOP LOOKS: A “Geoffrey L.L. Bean” loden quilted blazer and brown “ice lizard” textured skirt; Glittering crystal “diamond crocodile” and “diamond chagrine” mini-shift dresses; A short black coat that grades into the sparkling sky line; Aluminum-like Jiffy Pop parka; Copper molded leather mini-ball gown; Karlie as fairy queen in an iridescent peach bodice and tulle skirt.

ACCESSORIES: Gigantic anorak hoods attached to jackets, or just paired floating with ball gowns. Rock and crystal jewelry, glitter twigs, skyline bracelets, and lion head earrings. Clear molded bags from Italy (that were snatched from customs mere hours before the show). “Glass” ankle boots, amethyst and ruby shoe boots, and winter sandals and flats.

WHO WAS THERE: The front row was like a Bravo reunion episode, with the network’s Andy Cohen, Russell Simmons, and Countess Luann de Lesseps. Veronica Webb was also in attendance along with Jennifer Creel, and Susan Fales-Hill.

WHAT WE THOUGHT: Isaac took us on an enchanted jaunt through snowy Central Park (there was snow fall) accompanied by a live jazz-trio. The designer is also a showman and it was a spectacle of unearthly but wearable gorgeous clothes.

He showed divine luxe classic American coats, more playful puffers, ladies-who-lunch in tweed coats and silk dresses, crystal shorts (the new evening look for fall) and cocktail wear so densely encrusted he likened it to crocodile and armor.

And finally, he closed with “Seven Winter Fairies”–the Avatar reference-who wore metallic and tulle confections fit for royalty. Hair and make-up legends, Eugene Souleiman and Val Garland respectively, created a deceptively minimal look for the show, with frizzy almost matted powdery hair and super nude dewy faces. Mizrahi does two things best: American Sportswear and elevated elaborate couture, and this show was a fantastic celebration of both.

Isaac Mizrahi Fall 2010 – Runway Review originally appeared on StyleList on Mon, 22 Feb 2010 09:50:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.

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Alexandre Herchcovitch Fall 2010 – Runway Review

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Alexandre Herchcovitch Fall 2010   Runway Review

Photos: Imaxtree.com (3)

DESIGNER: Alexandre Herchcovitch

INSPIRATION: Soviet legends, Georgian and Armenian folklore and a dash of punk.

TOP LOOKS: Grey nip-waist dress with Swarovski embellishment and gold chain sash, dark grey dress smock dress with poet sleeves and crystal hem, a loosely knitted crystal-studded top tucked into a voluminous black skirt with heavy fur trim, paired with a black fur muff.

ACCESSORIES: Fishnet tights of all colors, lace-up bootie heels paired with colored socks and jingly anklets, Swarovski crystal and chain headpieces layered over bandanas.

WHO WAS THERE: Estelle, Bryan Boy, Leigh Lezark

WHAT WE THOUGHT:
If there was one word that describes Brazilian designer Alexandre Herchcovitch’s Fall 2010 collection, it would be rich.

Every piece sent down the runway — from cocktail dresses and trendy cropped pleated trousers to tartan flannel tops, bandanas and heavy dress coats — were embroidered, pleated, sequined, trimmed in fur and covered in Swarovski crystal within an inch of their lives.

While a Soviet theme was primary, Herchcovitch interjected it with touches of punk and his own techno-ethnic prints that gave the collection a kick of cool.

Alexandre Herchcovitch Fall 2010 – Runway Review originally appeared on StyleList on Mon, 22 Feb 2010 09:40:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.

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Fewer Models Of Color Work New York’s Fashion Runways

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Fewer Models Of Color Work New Yorks Fashion RunwaysAfter tracking diversity on the runways for several seasons, we took off last September because we thought the fashion industry was finally coming to its senses. Models of color were getting booked! How disappointing, then, to tally this season’s numbers.

As I watched the New York shows last week, I noticed that the casts were dominated by white models. An ethnic face might pass by here or there, alone in a lineup of 30-some looks — but the overall impression I got from my Z-row seat was that what's gonna big for fall is being a white person. (Also: fur.)

It turns out this impression wasn’t just anecdotally true: it’s a plain fact. The New York runways were less diverse this season than last time we checked in.

Fashion week had been becoming more diverse — it was only in the fall of 2007 that fully one-third of shows in New York had 100% white casts. Two years later, we calculated that 18% of spots in show lineups were booked by models of color — a real improvement in the representation of black, Latina, and Asian faces in the crucible where the beauty standard is forged.

This season, fashion took a step back.

Fewer Models Of Color Work New Yorks Fashion Runways
We counted the number of spots in each of the 122 fall, 2010, shows held in New York that were covered by Style.com. (Why Style.com? Because the online home of American Vogue strikes a good balance of breadth and noteworthiness in choosing which shows to cover, and it’s good about putting models’ names in its slideshows.) We counted how many of those spots went to models of color.

The numbers, as you can see, were not encouraging. Of 4,095 turns on the runway, only 662 went to models who weren’t white. That’s barely 16%.

Black models, at 323 bookings, were used the most of any single ethnic group, aside from whites. Asians were second, with 264. Latinas were a distant third, with 61 trips down the catwalk. Fourteen times during this fashion week, models of other races were used in a runway show.

It's important to note that we were counting instances of a model being used in a show — not individual models. (A lot fewer than 4,095 models did the fashion week rounds.) Models who are popular with designers and casting directors were booked for multiple shows, and many shows send each model out in two or more looks from the collection. We counted not each model but each runway look — ie, the total number of opportunities for women of color to be included on American fashion's biggest platform, and in the fashion week that kicks off the world's ready-to-wear collections, which continue right now in London.

Fewer Models Of Color Work New Yorks Fashion Runways
Most of the shows that took place used some models of color — just three designers, A Détacher, Alice + Olivia (full disclosure: an old client of mine), and Preen, chose exclusively white casts — but many used very few. Well over 60% of the shows, in fact, used casts that were 85% white, or more.

Nineteen shows used only one non-white model. Those designers included taste-makers like Calvin Klein, blockbuster commercial labels like Diesel, and the Olsens’ well-regarded line, The Row.

Eighteen designers booked just two models of color. That list included both Donna Karan and DKNY, Jill Stuart, Rag & Bone, and Nicole Miller.

One of the worst offenders was Max Azria. At his three high-profile New York fashion week shows, BCBG Max Azria, Max Azria, and Hervé Leger by Max Azria — each attended by virtually every important fashion editor, and worked by one of fashion's most exclusive casts — diversity was practically non-existent. BCBG had one black model, Shena Moulton, and one Asian, Shu Pei Qin, out of a 29-look lineup. Hervé Leger had only the same two girls of color, in a 32-look show. For his eponymous line, Azria showed 36 looks, and used just one model who wasn’t white: Shu Pei.

Fewer Models Of Color Work New Yorks Fashion Runways
It must be said that some models of color worked a lot.

The Chinese model Liu Wen, pictured here on the top left in an editorial for Teen Vogue, walked in 22 of the shows that we looked at for the purposes of this post, and Shu Pei, seen on the bottom in a Benetton ad, and Tao Okamoto, seen here in a Dazed & Confused editorial, each walked in 21. Those are excellent showlists for a single fashion week, and these models will almost certainly continue their strong runs during the European collections. But why weren’t there more models of color overall? None of the fashion shows I went to was even as diverse as the crowd that assembled to watch them.

Fewer Models Of Color Work New Yorks Fashion Runways
Fashion week’s top black model, by number of shows and presentations booked, was Rose Cordero, pictured above on the March, 2010, cover of Paris Vogue. (Cordero is the first black model to be granted a solo French Vogue cover since Liya Kebede, in 2002.) The 17-year-old Dominican national was in 16 shows. Second, with 15 New York shows under her belt, was Joan Smalls, a Puerto Rican, shown below Cordero. On the upper left is Texan R’el Dade, who nabbed third place in a tie, with 12 shows.

Fewer Models Of Color Work New Yorks Fashion Runways
Black models Sedene Blake, right, and Moulton, left, tied Dade’s tally.

Fewer Models Of Color Work New Yorks Fashion Runways
Because as we all know “Latina” is an ethnicity, not a “race” — and since race is, after all, a social construct — it would be pointless to pretend that the models we counted as “Latina” were a comprehensive group. Where a Latina model was black, like Cordero, or the Brazilian Gracie Carvalho, we counted her as black. Where a Latina model was white, like the Brazilian Raquel Zimmerman, or virtually every other famous Brazilian model you can name, we counted them as white. So the “Latina” category we made up for the purposes of this analysis was necessarily gerrymandered; in fact, the only Latinas we counted as “Latinas” are models of mixed race and/or of indigenous descent. We did this because we wanted these categories to reflect the diversity of New York fashion week at the most superficial, visual level: during a show, did the girl walking by appear to be other than white? On the short list of things that casting directors take into consideration when choosing (or rejecting) a model, what passport she bears or culture she represents — those are not present. The color of her skin — that is.

We certainly wish that Peruvian Juana Burga, top, who walked in 10 shows, Bruna Tenório, a Brazilian of indigenous descent, pictured bottom left in a Neiman Marcus catalog, who walked in 8, and Daiane Conterato, who was fashion week's third most popular Latina model, with four shows — and women like them — had been better represented at the collections in New York.

Fewer Models Of Color Work New Yorks Fashion Runways
Tara Gill, left, a Canadian who is part Native American, and the Moroccan Hind Sahli, right, walked in four and five shows, respectively. Their combined efforts comprised the less than 1% of the total runway spots that went to girls of other races. Why doesn’t fashion have a bigger place for faces like these?

The importance of this issue can hardly be overstated. The United States is only around 75% white, and according to the Census Bureau’s most recent figures, New York City is only 44% white. And many of the least-diverse labels, like Calvin Klein, Diesel, and Donna Karan, are international brands. Wouldn’t they want their potential customers to recognize their own forms of beauty in their runway shows? The aesthetic standards set by the fashion industry affect all of our lives. Making a sample size that models don’t have to die of anorexia to get into seems to be a real head-scratcher for some designers, but validating the beauty of models who meet every one of the industry’s other restrictive standards, and also happen to be non-white, should be a no-brainer.

Certain shows were relatively very diverse. Tracy Reese and Sophie Théallet — who won last June's Council of Fashion Designers of America Award, and Michelle Obama's favor — both had majority-minority show casts, casts that reflected in some way the diversity of the city those designers call home. Diane von Furstenberg showed 16 of her 43 collection looks on models of color. Ports 1961 was as diverse as always, with five different Asian models, three black models, and Hind Sahli all walking in its Bryant Park show. Fully one in three of designer Rachel Comey's looks was presented on a model of color. Daniel Vosovic, a designer whose show we did not include in our tally only because Style.com didn't cover it, showed his collection on an all-Asian cast. Fellow Project Runway alumnus Christian Siriano opened and closed his show with a black model, Sessilee Lopez — and was one of only seven designers to choose to give a coveted opening or closing nod to a model of color. These designers, at least, are among those who see the value in a runway show that in some way tries to reflect the diversity of the wider world.

Maybe we should ask Max Azria — not to mention Francisco Costa — why he doesn't.

Jezebel interns Madeleine Desmond, Lucy Zhihui Zhu, and Noorain Khan contributed invaluable work to this statistical report.

Fewer Models Of Color Work New Yorks Fashion Runways
Fewer Models Of Color Work New Yorks Fashion Runways

Fewer Models Of Color Work New Yorks Fashion Runways Fewer Models Of Color Work New Yorks Fashion Runways Fewer Models Of Color Work New Yorks Fashion Runways Fewer Models Of Color Work New Yorks Fashion Runways

Fewer Models Of Color Work New Yorks Fashion Runways

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