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Edited by on February 13 2012 at 11:43 AM

Looking around the scene at Tommy Hilfiger’s fall 2012 runway show I thought I had mistakenly wandered into an English garden. Vines of ivy twisted their way along brick columns and trees fully in bloom sat in their own separate little fields. If not for the giant catwalk winding around those fields, I would’ve expected a tea party to commence at any second. From this setting I also expected very light, dainty, ladylike fare – but from the first look it was apparent that the house that Tommy built was not serving tea. A thread of military dressing ran through the collection, centered heavily on coats in shearling, bonded leather and Melton wool. Dresses in silk suggested a ladylike quality, but this lady’s ready to face the ravages of fall and stare it down till the spring. 

#NYFW Cheat Sheet: Tommy Hilfiger AW12

Photo: Style.com

Color Palette: Burgundy, midnight navy, caramel.

Mood: And then there’s Mod. 60s military chic meets fox hunting with the hounds on Park Ave.

Statement Pieces: The coats were everything with two double-breasted numbers standing out in particular — one in plaid mohair and leather (above) and the other in burgundy patent leather.

Front Row:  Model turned actress and professional Bill-killer, Uma Thurman as well as editors in chic, Elle‘s Joe Zee and W‘s Stefano Tonchi and Edward Enninful.

Runway Music: Despite hearing about her nonstop for the past few weeks, this was my first time actually hearing Lana del Rey. Her ”National Anthem” kicked off the show and I wasn’t completely offended by what I heard. Who knew?

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Story by Lester Brathwaite

I was center square from 1969 to 1978, during which I perfected the art of the zing as well as a crippling cocaine addiction. Bea Arthur was responsible for both. @LesFabian lester at fashionindie.com