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FASHION / April 6 2011 6:34 AM

FASHION SCRAMBLE: Decarnin Says Bye Bye to Balmain + Westwood Does Not <3 NY + Elle on TV

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- After five lucrative, statement-shouldered years, Balmain and creative director Christophe Decarnin are getting a divorce. What will happen to the sequined jackets?! No one ever thinks about the sequined jackets! Decarnin was notoriously absent from the Fall 2011 show in Paris under speculation of a mental break, but sources say the designer and Balmain’s chairman/CEO Alain Hivelin just didn’t see eye to eye. An internal hire is expected to be announced shortly. [WWD]

FASHION SCRAMBLE: Decarnin Says Bye Bye to Balmain + Westwood Does Not <3 NY + Elle on TV

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FASHION / March 9 2011 5:24 PM

Louis Vuitton Rockets to the Penthouse of the Universe for Fall 2011

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Dead. Girl. Walking. Louis Vuitton always kills me, always in the right way. Marc Jacobs certainly had obsession in mind when he designed the Fall 2011 collection, shown today in Paris, ending another long fashion season. “It’s all about fetish,” Jacobs told WWD the night before his show. But what about the collection garnered these feelings of lust and addiction to mere materials? Is it the sleeves and legs recalling leg of mutton cuts, creating voluptuous hourglass silhouettes that could launch 1000 ships? Could it be the rubberized lace garments or refusal to wear pants, a trend I am behind 100 percent. What about the 18-karat gold handbag securely handcuffed to a model’s wrist? Everything from excessive use of the LV logo to tiny little wrist gloves to waxed faux fur, it’s clear the Louis Vuitton woman is magnificent and always will be. Every piece from prim and proper rounded collars to eccentric prints and diamond-shaped sequins to dominatrix corset belts had a place, creating a tremendously cohesive but sundry collection. French maids and elevator porters accessorized the elaborate scene, as models walked from a gilded and black iron retro elevator bank.  Naomi Campbell, terrifying in the chicest of ways, walked the runway, as did Kate Moss who closed the show, cigarette in hand. “Save the best for last” is the saying, and Louis Vuitton is obviously the penthouse of Fashion Week.

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FASHION / March 9 2011 1:00 PM

Heads Rolled at Alexander McQueen

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Sarah Burton has done something truly amazing at Alexander McQueen. Not just this season — which she has — but also in facing the daunting task of stepping into the lobster claw tranny heels of one of fashion’s last great visionaries. Sure she worked hand in hand with McQueen since her days as a Central Saint Martins student, but how to respect his legacy at the same time creating a distinct voice of her own?

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FASHION / March 8 2011 1:57 PM

Manish Arora’s Tricks Aren’t for Kids

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For his Fall 2011 show, Manish Arora had a magician on hand who through acts of prestidigitation and legerdemain (TRICKS!) conjured models out of nowhere, sawed them in half and even took them through the fire. But the real spectacle was on the runway, where Arora’s woman walked (beautifully) an almost nonexistent line between animé and Blade Runner.

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FASHION / March 8 2011 11:45 AM

Emanuel Ungaro has Something for Your Mistress, Not Your Wife

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Looking at the Emanuel Ungaro Fall 2011 collection, a repeat of leather collars with metal accents was the first indication that designer Giles Deacon was listening when Ungaro notoriously said, “I dress mistresses, not wives.” Sheer garments adorned with Lesage embroideries were rich and risqué while hemlines skimmed the tops of thighs. Body-conscious garments came down the runway in various forms like leather cocktail dresses, velvet suits and teeny tiny colorful silk dresses. The shoes were sweet yet sharp, in a rainbow of colors easily interchangeable among the looks. It won’t take long for these mistresses’ clothes to end up on the floor, as there is little to remove and barely anything left to the imagination. But I could see many a young fashionista work these dresses and jumpsuits into more avant-garde forms, mixing them with heavier fabrics and softer hair.

Emanuel Ungaro has Something for Your Mistress, Not Your Wife

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FASHION / March 7 2011 4:34 PM

High Society Sporting & Far East Exploring with Hermès Fall 2011

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What to do in your spare time while wearing Hermès? Take your pick of the elite sporting activities archery, horse racing or falconry. Or maybe a nomadic journey through China is more your speed, wearing an array of neutral and brightly-colored caftans containing pendant, tassel and quilting details. This is what came from Christophe Lemaire’s first collection for the legendary Hermès house, shown during Paris Fashion Week for the Fall 2011 season. Tailored, menswear-inspired pieces put the lady back in her power suit accessorized with chic mini briefcases. The Far Eastern characteristics in the collection lent a softer touch to strong and boxy leather garments while rich, warm colors accented gloomy grays and neutrals. Whether jet-setter or house sitter, if opulent garb is what you require, this is the collection to seek come fall.

High Society Sporting & Far East Exploring with Hermès Fall 2011

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